Steering knuckle mod "moar angle"
sure is a lot easier making some after you see what to do.
like i said, i wouldn't have had a problem if you made them...
without making a jig off of mine.
you really just need to forget about making any spindles for anyone...
you already ruined it for yourself.
this should have never happened
edit: you are pretty funny though.. knockoffville, china
like i said, i wouldn't have had a problem if you made them...
without making a jig off of mine.
you really just need to forget about making any spindles for anyone...
you already ruined it for yourself.
this should have never happened
edit: you are pretty funny though.. knockoffville, china
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
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From: South Florida
Originally Posted by SlideAlliance
Whats so awesome about modified knuckles is that you will NEVER be able to use that much angle and actually hold it
the whole point of making that much angle is so you CAN hold it there... adding angle allows you to add more throttle, since you can slow the car with angle, this allows you to add throttle to create SMOKETOWN!!!
Couldn't agree more.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 62
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From: SE UK
Hey guys, Have any of you running these hubs tried playing with the ackerman angle (reducing it)? Quite a few UK guys are playing around, I wondered if anyone over your side is and what the results are?
![Jesse[SM]'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%2347a88d' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>J</text></svg>)
ド*リ*フ*ト*!!!
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From: ColofuckinRADo
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
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From: South Florida
Hmmm....... All I will say is yes, I totally reworked everything on my Bimmer in 2006.
I'm not gonna give it away, but if you take your time and figure out all the angles and how ackerman is originally designed and intended you can add 10mph to your speed through fast sweepers.
-Sean
yeah, i use a miller syncrowave 180sd running 3 phase.
you only want to tig, since you really need to get heat into them to get good penetration.
yeah, part of the point in modifying the spindle IS to reduce ackerman. thus giving you less scrub at angle.
you only want to tig, since you really need to get heat into them to get good penetration.
yeah, part of the point in modifying the spindle IS to reduce ackerman. thus giving you less scrub at angle.
Hmmm....... All I will say is yes, I totally reworked everything on my Bimmer in 2006.
I'm not gonna give it away, but if you take your time and figure out all the angles and how ackerman is originally designed and intended you can add 10mph to your speed through fast sweepers.
-Sean
I'm not gonna give it away, but if you take your time and figure out all the angles and how ackerman is originally designed and intended you can add 10mph to your speed through fast sweepers.
-Sean
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 598
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
No dude. im not.
Im not stoked you basically presented it to me as if Justin knew about you making a jig of them either.
Its funny how your story about the knuckles has gone from "im going to make a jig off them, justin told me how", to "Justin must have forgot he told me how to do them" to "I just made jigs to compare to the knuckles Ive already made".
Its kinda irrelevant. I wind up looking like an ******* who abused a favor, you just look like China.
Im not stoked you basically presented it to me as if Justin knew about you making a jig of them either.
Its funny how your story about the knuckles has gone from "im going to make a jig off them, justin told me how", to "Justin must have forgot he told me how to do them" to "I just made jigs to compare to the knuckles Ive already made".
Its kinda irrelevant. I wind up looking like an ******* who abused a favor, you just look like China.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 598
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Yeah dude.
Me being irritated because my reputation gets **** on and I inadvertently screw over somebody who did a favor for me done is totally an ******* thing to do.
Take his **** out of my mouth? Thats your response? Really? Youve got a lot to learn son.
Me being irritated because my reputation gets **** on and I inadvertently screw over somebody who did a favor for me done is totally an ******* thing to do.
Take his **** out of my mouth? Thats your response? Really? Youve got a lot to learn son.
ド*リ*フ*ト*!!!
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From: ColofuckinRADo
looks like you got it figured out...
Originally Posted by Chance3000
Sweet, plus you get to pay for shipping both ways.
The way they do it means you also get to break tie rod ends from time to time. Unless you raise your car and run less negative camber which is stupid, and no one will ever do.
The way they do it is literally wrong on the FC, and there is a reason everyone else is going through Turbo II Rotor, Lindsay, MA Motorsports, and JTP. When they modify them, they weld on an extra block, they don't cut them up and move the mounting point in and leveled out for negative camber to save your tie rod ends. And you have to cut up a wrench to tighten your tie rod ends (f**k joke)
But, its up to you. If I were you I would go buy a set of the ones Turbo II Rotor is selling, or have me do it. At least if something happens with mine, you can bring them to me right away and I can fix them (not like thats really possible with the way we are doing it anyway )
I think Turbo II Rotor is selling them for $200 +shipping if you send yours in, or $330 +shipping if you buy the ones he already has, his way of doing them is different, but still badass and better than PSM
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=766836&page=6
The way they do it means you also get to break tie rod ends from time to time. Unless you raise your car and run less negative camber which is stupid, and no one will ever do.
The way they do it is literally wrong on the FC, and there is a reason everyone else is going through Turbo II Rotor, Lindsay, MA Motorsports, and JTP. When they modify them, they weld on an extra block, they don't cut them up and move the mounting point in and leveled out for negative camber to save your tie rod ends. And you have to cut up a wrench to tighten your tie rod ends (f**k joke)
But, its up to you. If I were you I would go buy a set of the ones Turbo II Rotor is selling, or have me do it. At least if something happens with mine, you can bring them to me right away and I can fix them (not like thats really possible with the way we are doing it anyway )
I think Turbo II Rotor is selling them for $200 +shipping if you send yours in, or $330 +shipping if you buy the ones he already has, his way of doing them is different, but still badass and better than PSM
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=766836&page=6
Okay so I have a question for people modifying these, JTP included
How far is TOO far? Travis and I are looking into building ball joint spacers so the rotation point stays the same, but the wheel will clear more **** at full lock. The only deal is adjusting camber to be right and fender clearance for people without small wheels or big fenders (+30mm.....maybe bigger like my +45mm foresights)
The whole purpose is so you don't have to run 9.5" wheels with like -15 offset to utilize aggressive knuckles, and you won't smack the chassis or sway bar/lca. BUT if you decide to run them WITH aggressive offset wheels, you can go even further with the knuckles!!!!
How far is TOO far? Travis and I are looking into building ball joint spacers so the rotation point stays the same, but the wheel will clear more **** at full lock. The only deal is adjusting camber to be right and fender clearance for people without small wheels or big fenders (+30mm.....maybe bigger like my +45mm foresights)
The whole purpose is so you don't have to run 9.5" wheels with like -15 offset to utilize aggressive knuckles, and you won't smack the chassis or sway bar/lca. BUT if you decide to run them WITH aggressive offset wheels, you can go even further with the knuckles!!!!
It all depends on how much angle you want to achieve. Is there such thing as too much? well yes!!!! **** starts to get in the way.
i'm already hitting the frame with a 9.5 +2. fenders and offsets is a minimal concern of mine when you get to hit AWESOMETIME around a sweeper. Most of us are doing this to our drift/track cars. I would not really want to run these knuckles on the street. Their would be no real benefits. Plus running low offset, widebody, ganster size wheels is part of the equation.
my set from scott came with the bolts that have a non threaded spot and they dont have much play at all. negligable.
ill let scott come in and explain it all though.
ill let scott come in and explain it all though.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 62
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From: SE UK
Hmmm....... All I will say is yes, I totally reworked everything on my Bimmer in 2006.
I'm not gonna give it away, but if you take your time and figure out all the angles and how ackerman is originally designed and intended you can add 10mph to your speed through fast sweepers.
-Sean
I'm not gonna give it away, but if you take your time and figure out all the angles and how ackerman is originally designed and intended you can add 10mph to your speed through fast sweepers.
-Sean
Thanks for the replies guys, appreciated. I'm getting mine sorted so looking forward to trying out the results.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
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From: South Florida
My car is going through a full rebuild right now, but I sat down years ago and thought about the ackerman and lever ratio. Even at St. Louis in '07 the steering was already done, too bad the diff mount failed hard....
Anyway, I forgot you were from Indiana, I'm actually near Indy right now, just taking a break from stress back in FL.... Still with Ter-Tech too, Elysian is just the fabrication side of the business.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
Fab longer control arms.
Huge scrub radius = fucked up steering feel.
I try to at least keep the steering rotation axis hitting the ground somewhere WITHIN the contact patch.
My car uses an et46 offset from the factory, I was at -7 and the steering just felt horrible. I have longer control arms now and it's so much better. Also on most cars a large scrub radius will have the tire hitting the firewall/wheelwell at some point...
Right, so spacing the ball joints out should act as the same thing but without the overhead of the materials to build completely new ones. All it will be is a bolt on cnc'd piece that utilizes the stock units. Very simple, very easy to make, and I feel it will be marketable.
now you want to change the whole geometry of your suspension. I have been reasearching this for a while now. If you change the mounting point of one thing it will effect another part.
Whats the point of all this anyway?
Make some mula?......help out the community?
I tell you whats going to happen. You come up with something that works and everyone else will copy you. And that is the truffff!!!!
Whats the point of all this anyway?
Make some mula?......help out the community?
I tell you whats going to happen. You come up with something that works and everyone else will copy you. And that is the truffff!!!!
