Steering knuckle mod "moar angle"
PBM knuckles DO NOT "correct" bumpsteer. In fact I have no idea what they are doing.
The reason is that they only address 1 of the 2 places they need to fix. Basically they are trying to get the tie rod angle lower in its range of motion over the suspension travel. What they are forgetting is that the tie rod AND lower control arm must maintain the same angle to avoid adding bumpsteer. They do nothing to space that LCA down the same amount as the tie rod, thus introducing a **** load of weird *** suspension issues.
Here is a Whiteline kit for a WRX.
As you can see it has tie rod ends that space them down from the knuckle. It ALSO has LCA balljoints that space the LCA down the same amount. That is the "correct" way to add a bumpsteer fix. (this is assuming the LCA balljoint pivot is lowered since I cannot see under that boot).
The reason is that they only address 1 of the 2 places they need to fix. Basically they are trying to get the tie rod angle lower in its range of motion over the suspension travel. What they are forgetting is that the tie rod AND lower control arm must maintain the same angle to avoid adding bumpsteer. They do nothing to space that LCA down the same amount as the tie rod, thus introducing a **** load of weird *** suspension issues.
Here is a Whiteline kit for a WRX.
As you can see it has tie rod ends that space them down from the knuckle. It ALSO has LCA balljoints that space the LCA down the same amount. That is the "correct" way to add a bumpsteer fix. (this is assuming the LCA balljoint pivot is lowered since I cannot see under that boot).
I figured the tie rod end being at such an extreme angle would be the main culprit.
Hence spacing the tie rod to get rid of all that nasty angle on the joint.
illdrift, have you considered swapping in a rack from a different car? Is it possible.
Keep in mind i know jack **** about your car if you're in a bad mood and feel the need to vent on me along with an answer. lol.
Keep in mind i know jack **** about your car if you're in a bad mood and feel the need to vent on me along with an answer. lol.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 455
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Well i guess some of us need to hit up pbm and see if we can create a demand for such a kit on an fc if one doesn't already exist.
I figured the tie rod end being at such an extreme angle would be the main culprit.
Hence spacing the tie rod to get rid of all that nasty angle on the joint.
I figured the tie rod end being at such an extreme angle would be the main culprit.
Hence spacing the tie rod to get rid of all that nasty angle on the joint.
It does look like the ball joint will press right out of the bracket........
Again, you have me kicking myself for throwing a "worn out" set in the trash instead of holding onto them like a packrat.
Again, you have me kicking myself for throwing a "worn out" set in the trash instead of holding onto them like a packrat.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
What have you done on your car for more lock?
Just the basic angle kit + some washers to get more adjustment out of the ends without stripping them.
Going with pbm or dk's knuckles along with a power steering cooler (snagging an oem oil cooler from the junkyard for cheap cheap) whenever i get some money and then i should be done in that department until something else comes out i want that will overall improve the driving experience.
I haven't even hit full lock with my angle kit yet. There really isn't a place close enough to my house (no tags on the car right now....) for me to even risk attempting that. *sigh* maybe next year. I want to have my **** all sorted out so i can register for mb drift next year and see if i can use all that angle with n/a powah. AE86 guys do it all the time, just gotta go in fast, steep and deep and PRAY to ******* god you dont understeer.
Going with pbm or dk's knuckles along with a power steering cooler (snagging an oem oil cooler from the junkyard for cheap cheap) whenever i get some money and then i should be done in that department until something else comes out i want that will overall improve the driving experience.
I haven't even hit full lock with my angle kit yet. There really isn't a place close enough to my house (no tags on the car right now....) for me to even risk attempting that. *sigh* maybe next year. I want to have my **** all sorted out so i can register for mb drift next year and see if i can use all that angle with n/a powah. AE86 guys do it all the time, just gotta go in fast, steep and deep and PRAY to ******* god you dont understeer.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Bournemouth, UK
I am now running:
- the mazatrix steering angle kit
- Uras track rods
- JTPDrift.com knuckles..
needless to say i am litterally hitting everytwhere.
LCA is the main problem.. as well as the inner arch both at the front and the rear..
what solutions have people come up with to sort the rubbing.. are there aftermarket LCA's? maybe common mods done to the standard ones?
Im running a 17x9j ET17 with10mm spacer. = et7 im about to add a further 25mm and hoping that will help alot.. but fear its gonna mean tubbing the arches and cutting of bodywork.
solutions with pics would be awesome.
thx
- the mazatrix steering angle kit
- Uras track rods
- JTPDrift.com knuckles..
needless to say i am litterally hitting everytwhere.
LCA is the main problem.. as well as the inner arch both at the front and the rear.. what solutions have people come up with to sort the rubbing.. are there aftermarket LCA's? maybe common mods done to the standard ones?
Im running a 17x9j ET17 with10mm spacer. = et7 im about to add a further 25mm and hoping that will help alot.. but fear its gonna mean tubbing the arches and cutting of bodywork.
solutions with pics would be awesome.
thx
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Bournemouth, UK
should have mentioned sorry that i had the intention of putting on spacers.
I in fact did it today. I had complications withmy extended studs, but nothing some cutting couldn't sort and now i have 35mm spacers ona et17 wheel meaning ET-18 overall.
Now it seems I STILL hit the inner arches, so will have to bash the crap outa the bits i can, but there are somebits that i think are just 'unbashable'
Some pics from today:
The spacers:
The lock (bare in mind it still fouls in places.. so could be more or could be at max and just scraping.. I dont know yet)
These are shots of the rubbing BEFORE spacers.. Im yet to see where it rubs now with spacers.
Ive cut away bits i can.. bashed bits i can.. and now i think its going to be down to tyres.
I'm thinking about reducing the 9J ET17 to a 8J ET22 (its the lowest ET available at 8j from my sponsor) to see if that helps, and pair it with a better profile tyre. I currently Run 235/40/17 R888's up front....
thinking of a 215/40 or a 225/40 if I can.. just dont know what make..
Input appreciated.
I in fact did it today. I had complications withmy extended studs, but nothing some cutting couldn't sort and now i have 35mm spacers ona et17 wheel meaning ET-18 overall.
Now it seems I STILL hit the inner arches, so will have to bash the crap outa the bits i can, but there are somebits that i think are just 'unbashable'
Some pics from today:
The spacers:
The lock (bare in mind it still fouls in places.. so could be more or could be at max and just scraping.. I dont know yet)
These are shots of the rubbing BEFORE spacers.. Im yet to see where it rubs now with spacers.
Ive cut away bits i can.. bashed bits i can.. and now i think its going to be down to tyres.
I'm thinking about reducing the 9J ET17 to a 8J ET22 (its the lowest ET available at 8j from my sponsor) to see if that helps, and pair it with a better profile tyre. I currently Run 235/40/17 R888's up front....
thinking of a 215/40 or a 225/40 if I can.. just dont know what make..
Input appreciated.
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: columbia,sc
just out of curiousity, putting lots of space between the hub and center line of the wheel cause a larger turn variable,like the distance the wheel turns in conjunction with number of turns of the steering wheel be greater causing a "lag" in a sense?and the turn axis gets bigger...what the hell am i smoking?!?!?!?
what i ment by this was to put in to perspective the black wheel reps stock, and pink
reps more angle and spacers.the pink one travels in a bigger radious.big circle. and stock is much smaller the pink. i think it would make more sence to extend the pivot point farther out to allow more angle.longate the whole assembly,arms,etc. and put the shock tower farther out. in doing so would allow no more rubbing and acheive a turn circle close 80' just throwing that one out and hope some one might understand.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Bournemouth, UK
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...-green-29.html
FC rotors & housing etc.. uprated tips.. agressive bridge porting.
FD Loom/power FC & Commander.
FD ingnitors/leads/ignition wiring.
FD inlet plenum.
T04R turbo.
HKS external gate a screamer pipe.
and more.
Just need this damn clearance issue sorted, then some alignment arms (IMPOSSIBLE to find in the uk.
) then its onto the interior cleanup.what i ment by this was to put in to perspective the black wheel reps stock, and pink
reps more angle and spacers.the pink one travels in a bigger radious.big circle. and stock is much smaller the pink. i think it would make more sence to extend the pivot point farther out to allow more angle.longate the whole assembly,arms,etc. and put the shock tower farther out. in doing so would allow no more rubbing and acheive a turn circle close 80' just throwing that one out and hope some one might understand.
reps more angle and spacers.the pink one travels in a bigger radious.big circle. and stock is much smaller the pink. i think it would make more sence to extend the pivot point farther out to allow more angle.longate the whole assembly,arms,etc. and put the shock tower farther out. in doing so would allow no more rubbing and acheive a turn circle close 80' just throwing that one out and hope some one might understand.
ideally if you could exend the lower arms.. or coilover mounting point you would gain clearance while retaining to smaller turning arc.
Alternatively keeping the coils/arms in the same place and moving the arches would make more sense... keeping the original geometry. This can be done at the front with Tubbing no worries.., but the rear of the wheel... IE chassis rail territory.. cannot be removed so easy.
Theats why, for now I have gone the spacer route.
Last edited by FlikstRR; May 26, 2009 at 03:37 AM.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
What offset would I need to run with an 17x8 wheel in the front with SuperNow tie rod ends and Uras Rods, so that I wouldn't rub?
And what about a 17x9 wheel?
And what about a 17x9 wheel?
