lol

camber can be adjusted by grinding out the top notch of the coilover where it mounts on to the spindle.. So if you extend the spindle out, the camber can still be adjusted with the camber plate and camber bolt area where it bolts to the spindle if u just grind it..

 

so what you are saying is that you hacked parts up not knowing how suspension geometry works? or did you figure out it gave more angle before modifying anything?

 

Even if he did just hack them up, it's not like it's gold or anything. $50 lower ball joints. No big deal.

Dont see why everyone has to get on everyone **** all the time no matter what the **** it is......

 

I'm guessing the former because all the weight of the car is placed on the spacer when that could have been avoided.

I thought of this **** 2 years ago. Who did you knock this **** off, your name isn't China for a reason.

 

does anybody have cliff notes for the past 10 pages or so

 

this got so off topic, can we just see some cars with "moar angle"?

 

check this out...



no lower arm modification... all the angle you could ever use...

 

all hail JTP

you are very F&*!##@#ken close to that wall you know that??????? Might as well put a sheet metal plate on the rear bumper and spark the wall on purpose! Too Buck wild

 

skinny wheels? 9.5's on the front bud. good luck with your 11's..

this is a proven setup... not just talk and speculation. you'd be better off getting your car done and actually testing your pieces out.

anyone can make something up and say it works.... but wouldn't you rather know that it actually works.

 

i have 18x9.5s -22offset up front as well..and I dont think its skinny at all.. it still doesnt clear the lca at lock.. what offset are u running justin?

 

I'm doing the same as dkwasherexd, cept about an inch taken out and with a tig instead (no idea if the penetration is any better?). My ball jointer splitter broke as i was about to do the other side, so can't do much more for now. Will post pics of the spindles once they're tidied up.





That's the car sitting on the ground. Stock steering rack and ends. Getting close to hitting everything, sway bar link, lower and upper arms, firewall etc. Should probably do, not gonna get much more lock without major suspension and body work.

 

oooh! cosmo nice.

 

wow major props for building/ drifting a jc cosmo... it looks stunning... i love it so much

 

take your front spacers off

looks like doodoo

 

new desktop.

 

Function.

Function.

Function.

Car was built on the cheap and throws down HARD.

JTP, that's just insane how close to the wall you are. I'm saving that pic in the "art" section on my photobucket n myspace.


Back on topic. I contacted max garage. Looks like that's what i'm going with. There's aot of weld points on their setup and they will pre-grind them for me as well. Plus, 2 locations and more bump steer correction. I asked dan if stickers are included. Not bad for $250 shipped upon signing a no-fault waiver. I'll weld them on myself.



*illdrift* ever get that rack problem sorted?

 

whose max garage? not even eisuke the owner would call it that

 

JTP knuckles are where it's at. that dude is way too cool.

 

Thanks

No Pistons! - Nah i didn't. Seemed to go past some sort of seal (o-ring?) at about 4mm on the left side of the car and couldn't really do much about it. Didn't try out the right side. So have gone with this mod using the stock rack ends. May add 2 or 3 mm worth of rack spacers in the future if i get more clearance with certain spacer/wheel combo's.

I'm still learning to weld so my welds aren't very good, but we'll see how they hold up. Moved the connecting point in 30mm, from a minimum distance (ie not centre) of 115mm down to 85mm. Kept stock ackerman.

 

PBM knuckles DO NOT "correct" bumpsteer. In fact I have no idea what they are doing.

The reason is that they only address 1 of the 2 places they need to fix. Basically they are trying to get the tie rod angle lower in its range of motion over the suspension travel. What they are forgetting is that the tie rod AND lower control arm must maintain the same angle to avoid adding bumpsteer. They do nothing to space that LCA down the same amount as the tie rod, thus introducing a **** load of weird *** suspension issues.

Here is a Whiteline kit for a WRX.

As you can see it has tie rod ends that space them down from the knuckle. It ALSO has LCA balljoints that space the LCA down the same amount. That is the "correct" way to add a bumpsteer fix. (this is assuming the LCA balljoint pivot is lowered since I cannot see under that boot).

 

ooo sit /\/\

 

I have mine right next to me hee ready to go on this weekend.

Direct from JTP to the United kingdom. they look bad ***.


top top t bloke too.

 

so I made another set.. This one is going to be a gift for John Chow..

Im going to make more, and sell them.. This will be a good way to help pay off my IRS audit..
Well dunno how many people will actually buy them though, as everyone is broke..

My LCA...poor thing is getting chopped up..

 

Cool, myfriend was telling me that too.. It only rubs there when I hit lock which is rare.. The only time I hit lock was at El Toro when I threw the car in reverse angle lol and thats when I fucked up my lca...
yeah il probably cut that section out and reincforce it with a plate welded on somehow...

 

just out of curiousity, putting lots of space between the hub and center line of the wheel cause a larger turn variable,like the distance the wheel turns in conjunction with number of turns of the steering wheel be greater causing a "lag" in a sense?and the turn axis gets bigger...what the hell am i smoking?!?!?!?