previously i was around 160*- 180*F. With KoyoRad and NPR front mount less than a half inch away from the rad. and stock oil cooler. No ducting

Went up to 180*F under boost at over 110* outside temp (Phoenix in June)


Im making a skid plate to protect the rad outlet and to help divert air. Im also making ducting for the rad and intercooler...

with both fans on at start up it should keep temps down... I should be starting the fc in maybe a month so i'll let you know how the Derale + fan works

 

i think i'm just going to get a pair of 30row CXracing oilcoolers for now. stupid cheap, and do the same thing, but just invest in the Derale fans for them and hopefully i can solve the issues.
my car at Irwindale was chilling at 180* and if the line were moving fast, and i could hotlap it would chill under 210* but never higher.

hopefully i can get my act together and get my car together, make ducting, all the -an's, and change out my radiator core to something not 5 rows thick...

 

this is a "drift car thread" not "car parked in your garage" thread...

HAHAHHAHAAAAAAAAAA!!!

j/k buddy!

 

Damn, I gotta get away from the stock turbo and manifold. My temps are stupid high in summer.
That damn turbo cooks the **** out of my lower intake mani.

I'm use to seeing 195-205*f cruising and 210*f+ if I get on it during summer for more than one run.

 

stock turbo/manifold started to get to the point where it was melting my throttle cable, and UIM Vacuum line...

BN FD i hate you. i saw the pics on facebook... couldn't stop staring. it's going to look pretty damn cool when it's done.
i found out why i never liked BN FD's.... none of them had Dish Wheels.

 

i was running stock turbo and mani at the time

temps were lower because i blocked off the water thru the intake manifold and turbo

 

damn, i just realized why my car was running hot.... ****.
i totally spaced that i put in the pineapple water blockoff circles, and still ran the water lines...

i'm ******* retarded.

 

yea, most fds with bn ( the very few pics i could find) wheel fitment wasnt so great...

but heres a few more...

 

ruthless....period

 

cant wait to drop the motor back in this week and get it ready to drive

 

that's awesome man

 

Would it be okay to run the stock turbo without the waterlines?
In theory it should be fine? I mean most aftermarket turbos are just oil cooled. Usually factory oem turbos are oil andwater cooled. Maybe its because longetivty reasons?

I just thought of that the other day, any inputs?

 

a few of my friends out here with TII's deleted them at the turbo. IDK if they blocked off the LIM passages with the pineapple inserts or not though.. never asked.

i wish i would've remembered about the inserts when i threw my motor back in after staying up for 3 days, and putting it in 4 hours before tech inspection...
maybe i would've had different results with temps..
my mind wasnt right....

 

I never thought about deleting the water. That makes a bunch of sense.

Although I wonder how much life you're taking off the turbo by doing so? And how much abuse the oil is taking without cooling support from the water?
I think adding an oil cooler little fan would be needed as a precaution.

 

ill post more pics once my front fenders. Arrive..

 

we should all just hop on the FD bandwaggon, and make rad streetcars to pull bitches with.
(listing **** on craigslist as i post this)

 

lol @ the EDIT

 

What's the gain in eliminating the water lines?

 

LOL @ bucky.... ill be drifting it as soon as its running and broken in (hopefully next month some time

 

Now that sounds like a plan right there.

 

i made my own lower intake mani gasket, didnt cut the holes for waterports, then put some RTV on two quarters...



if the water seal leaks and you get water inside the turbo when its hot...
then it cracks

 

no, lol JTP edited it, check your first post.

 

HAHA ******* justin...

 

I've wondered that myself. As long as you give your turbocharger/engine proper cool down after raping the **** out of it (no hot shutdown) the oil coking/seizing/galling problem isn't an issue so the water lines aren't needed unless you have a bb chra or are a jew with your fuel.




I suppose running water through the bac and turvo causes more underhood temps. And water cooling your turbo has to be extra tax on the cooling system in general.






I've said it once and i'll say it again. GUIDE cool air where you want it to go and where it needs to be. Get the hot air out. DUCT your oil coolers/rad/intercoolers to pull hot air away and cold air in as fast and as effieciently as possible.

As far as intercoolers go, iirc there was a bunch of dyno info and other science **** turbo II rotor jacks his dick to on the interwebs about bar n plate vs tube n fin. Tube and fin cooled more efficiently.

 

Ah, and my readings were unclear.



Tube and fin allows more air to flow through the cooler providing the tube is IN LINE with the direction of airflow. Mounted at an angle, it's able to drop the core temerature because more air resistance is on the tubes thus allowing that heat to pass from the charged air to the aluminum and to the slower moving air molecules that would otherwise just pick up little bits of heat here and there and carry them quickly out of the area.

Physics, chemistry and geometry. Those things i'm glad i payed attention to in school.


There's more to it and soo many variables it's insane so ofcourse there are going to be instances where configuration and intercooler type is going to pit one at an unfair advantage against the other.



I need to seriously get a handle on my lack of sleep. ****.