Same here, 10/8 seems pretty stiff. My car won't be daily but street/drift car, so was wondering if it would make sense to buy 6kg springs along with coilovers and make them 8/6? I don't mind stiffness but would be interesting to hear some more input from someone using them on the street.

 

Jesus, seems like nobody's answered and probably the reason is that it's a question that has been asked before. You can daily on PBM, I never did it personally since I had Stance but some buddies of mine do. But definitely, it may be smart to swap to a 8/6kg set up for that extra bit of comfort.

#AnythingIsPossible

 

I daily my PBM's and im on 16k all around.

 

Has anyone changed out NA diff ring and pinions for a higher gearing ratio?

 

Hey so fairly new to owning my fc rx7, owned for about a couple months now, and cars in general, I know and understand a bit and decided I want to setup my car for drifting but also use it a daily. I also want to hopefully do a T2 swap by the end of the year (please don't tell me not to do this), what would be some good starter mods? I was thinking powered by Max coilovers but what else?

 

1. Welded diff. [Or shimmed clutch type if you consistently look to park hard at the meat beatings]

2. DTSS Eliminators

3. Spare wheels or a tire mounting machine.

[4. Knuckles if you want to get froggy]

 

^ I'd say do tie rod ends/spacers before knuckles, and a bucket seat for sure. You'd be amazed how much a difference that makes and much more you can focus on driving.

 

Do you have a welded diff? I've heard they are a little sketchy for daily driving and I am just curious how it is to run one.

 

Daily driving isnt sketchy at all because of a welded diff. anyone who says that drives like an idiot.

 

I've daily driven on a welded diff, drives fine as long as you putt it. Understeer can come on heavy in the rain if you try to grip with a drift set up.lol.

 

Hey Fellas, new to the drift world. I've read the first 10 pages of this thread but didn't find anything too informative for newbies. Can someone provide me with a link to some good CORRECT info for beginners. I want to make sure I know more about what I want to do before I start asking too many questions. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Mainly because this thread ended up dead for some reason. It may be best to probe through drift builds and see their reasoning in which they picked specific things.

 

revived. would be nice to see videos/ pictures of peoples setups. and again why they chose those. too many drift styles to easily navigate through drift setups.

wheel size/ weight/ camber/ offset, spacing. turbo selection(powerband choice) diff settings, tire compound.

i'm more of a low sliding style with heavy wide wheels.

 

Aren't we all?

I've heard some people say ditch sways, some say don't.
I've heard some say depower the rack, some say go MR2.
I've heard some say stiff coils, some say basic.

There are a lot of opinions that I feel like each person finds important with their specific setup. It would be nice to hear what people decided on in conjunction with their personal feels.

Example [not my personal preference]: I picked PBM coilovers with stiff rates, thick sways and depowered rack because I like precise feel.

 

I want to see what people are doing for this year, as I'm sure many of us do. As stated above, there are many different style out there and I would love to see what you guys are running. Please be descriptive and add as much detail as you care to (ex. wheel sizes/offsets, camber, any suspension mods, engine specs, interior mods, stuff that makes your car look sexy).

 

fc s5 t2.
Panspeed hybrid turbo
Rtek 1.7
Safc neo
Profec b spec 2 boost controller
3" turboback
Pbm coils 8/6kg
Cerberus 18x10.5-1/18x11.5+7
Battle version rear toe links
Dtss eliminator/ white line rear hub camber adjuster/ awr camber links/ Mazdatrix main camber link
Rear ebc yellow pads
Shimmed s4 t2 diff
T2sb os giken clutch
Rear racing beat sway with heim end links
Godspeed tie rod ends
Custom front knuckles
Front polyurethane control arm bushings
Pbm diff and rear subframe risers and pbm solid front diff mount.

Interior: full black s5 interior
Panda garage seat
Rjs harness
330mm wheel forgot who made it

 

Sounds like my style

Let's get this going, here's my contribution

PBM Coilovers 8k/10k Slotted for moar camber
Battle Version Rear Camber Bar
Stock LSD
Stock S5 NA
Racing Beat Exhuast
Weds Cerberus II F:18x10+5 R:18x11-3
BN Rep Kit
Gutted Interior
Vertex Wheel
Corbeau Bucket Seat
Wrapped Metallic Black

 

Man, how are some of you guys getting so much camber. Does everyone slot their tophats?

I want to say I'm moderately lowered on rebled/tinkered with Megan coilovers, but could only manage -1.7* camber on one side, and -2.0* on the other. I assume something may be bent on my car, but i'm still maxing out at -2*.

 

extend your balljoints. or get the balljoint spacers to move the bottom out. there are a few threads on them here.

 

I figured that would be how too. But I have a S5 so I'd have to do some searching for S4 arms.

 

Just did my 3rd event, and finally set my car up so that it drifts phenomenally. Went through 4 sets of tires in less than 3 hours. Car is grippy, fast, and very responsive.

I just increased my caster, by rotating my top-hats, but this data will be since the last event.

1987 RX-7 FC N/A S4 chassis 4-lug
1JZ (320HP, 320 FT-LB, at the wheels @ 11 PSI on ebay GT35 .63ar turbo)
MS3X
Megan Track Coil overs (10k/12k i believe) Yeah, they're ******* stupid, way too stiff. I bought them when I first got my rx-7 like 4 years ago and didn't know anything.
No sway bars!
Sparco Sprint seat
Full carpet, no heater. Don't care about weight saves for now; later on i will.

Front Suspension:
Tires: 215/45R17, 17x8.25 +25mm XXR 527's no spacers.
Scrub radius: Pretty much zero.
Steering: Powersteering, Shortened knuckles @ 55 degrees of steering. No issues with rubbing, no bump stops. Rack reaches full lock with wheel 1/2" from the frame.
40mm Ball joint extensions, extended RX-7 FC tie rod ends.
Ackermann: idk, haven't measured, might have to go remake my knuckles to optimize them.
Toe: 1/8"
Caster: OEM.
Camber -4.0 degrees
Bushings: Polyurathane all around.

Rear Suspension:
Welded diff
Tires: 255/40r/17 Falken Azenis, 17x9.75 XXR 527's (best runs were with these tires, and i got them donated to me, i probably wouldn't buy these tires if i was just getting into drifting cause $$)
Bushings (all aluminum): Aluminum subframe risers, diff bushings, PBM shortened subframe links.
Toe: very slightly toe in, haven't measured, just enough to where i'm stable in a WOT straight line accel. OEM toe links.
dtss eliminators
subframe riser link.
Camber: Close to zero.

Like I said, car drifts well. Still need to make a hydro e-brake and a cage, but that's down the road. Would like larger tires in the front but hopefully not at the expense of scrub radius.

 

Who's the go to for extended lower ball joints right now? Share your experience.

 

I would also like to know.

As of right now I only know of Teal's since street faction stopped making theirs.

 

I bought mine from Villians; they're based out of Oregon. I tried extending mine, but ended up melting the plastic bushing inside of them, so this was the most economical option.

They actually have super cheap angle kits if you don't have the means to fab anything yourself.

Villains ? Trick Drift Bits

 

**** teals
I bought knuckles from them, the dude broke a TAP off in the threaded holes for the brake shield
decided that was not a big deal, and to paint over it and send it out to me.
like what.