The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
#228
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#230
\\TRASHTALK//
yea thats why a drift car shouldnt be on a highway. anything other than 0* toe is gonna give funny tire wear, but that isnt going to matter on the track when those settings are beneficial to keeping the car in angle or more controllable for that matter.
#232
Toe out up front feels a bit more twitchy, but i wouldnt say its "better" at all. Toe in out back does help with in drift grip, but not enough to really matter to anyone on here that isnt in FD.
If the extra twitch of front toe out is what you like get knuckles, they will give you more steering respose w/o killing your front tires.
#233
#234
\\TRASHTALK//
I dunno.
Toe out up front feels a bit more twitchy, but i wouldnt say its "better" at all. Toe in out back does help with in drift grip, but not enough to really matter to anyone on here that isnt in FD.
If the extra twitch of front toe out is what you like get knuckles, they will give you more steering respose w/o killing your front tires.
Toe out up front feels a bit more twitchy, but i wouldnt say its "better" at all. Toe in out back does help with in drift grip, but not enough to really matter to anyone on here that isnt in FD.
If the extra twitch of front toe out is what you like get knuckles, they will give you more steering respose w/o killing your front tires.
#236
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rt615 is the biz. i have a 225/40 and its way sticky, i might go to a 215 which will help with clearance.
i used 205/50 on 15's back in the day and it was enough for my kamikaze NA drift style.
i used 205/50 on 15's back in the day and it was enough for my kamikaze NA drift style.
#241
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happy st pattys day you *****
the 615's have a very specific tread patter (zig zag center) whichs probably helps divert water really well. We dont get much rain in Phx and i never drift in rain now that im turbo. i drive too aggressive for wet tarmac i guess
Id stay away from drifting in the rain, even though it makes the NA feel like a bridge port with a holset lol. Puddles will rip off BN, **** that. id rather rip off my bn due to a tap in a tandem, not ******* around in the rain.
guinness=fadedness
the 615's have a very specific tread patter (zig zag center) whichs probably helps divert water really well. We dont get much rain in Phx and i never drift in rain now that im turbo. i drive too aggressive for wet tarmac i guess
Id stay away from drifting in the rain, even though it makes the NA feel like a bridge port with a holset lol. Puddles will rip off BN, **** that. id rather rip off my bn due to a tap in a tandem, not ******* around in the rain.
guinness=fadedness
#242
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after reading 10 pages and having massive headache. Some answered my question and some didnt understand. I have NA fc and i know it doesnt make power but i want to just start drifting around doing donuts and etc. I know my clutch is worn out and im in market for new clutch kit... any suggestion? Oh, lsd... aint sure which one i should get 1.5 or 2.0 way lsd. Im looking into buying stance GR and it seem good review on 2nd gen forums... Anyone would like to chime in and help me to go on right path with my fc.
Thanks...
Thanks...
#243
\\TRASHTALK//
dont buy an aftermarket lsd for an NA diff. get a turbo diff and upgrade that.
for NA get
exhaust (RB manifold and 2.5 inch straight pipe all the way, **** a cat
weld the na diff
6 or 3 puck clutch exedy
lightweight 15inch wheels with a shitload of tire pressure
for NA get
exhaust (RB manifold and 2.5 inch straight pipe all the way, **** a cat
weld the na diff
6 or 3 puck clutch exedy
lightweight 15inch wheels with a shitload of tire pressure
#244
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after reading 10 pages and having massive headache. Some answered my question and some didnt understand. I have NA fc and i know it doesnt make power but i want to just start drifting around doing donuts and etc. I know my clutch is worn out and im in market for new clutch kit... any suggestion? Oh, lsd... aint sure which one i should get 1.5 or 2.0 way lsd. Im looking into buying stance GR and it seem good review on 2nd gen forums... Anyone would like to chime in and help me to go on right path with my fc.
Thanks...
Thanks...
my friends that had stance run pbm now...well all but one lol
if your budgeting a lil more megan tracks are actually really nice
excedy clutch id do a 6 puck.
pinion snubber=10-15bucks stiffer dif mount=60 bucks or box the stock one stock 1.3 way is enough to start on with good coilovers an clutch then exhaust intake yada yada
GET COIL OVERS ASAP before any power
i run lower pressure up front like 35 then like 45 rear sometimes 50
#245
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you dont need stance look into powered by max its what i run
my friends that had stance run pbm now...well all but one lol
if your budgeting a lil more megan tracks are actually really nice
excedy clutch id do a 6 puck.
pinion snubber=10-15bucks stiffer dif mount=60 bucks or box the stock one stock 1.3 way is enough to start on with good coilovers an clutch then exhaust intake yada yada
GET COIL OVERS ASAP before any power
werd on t2 dif na dif isnt worth it grab t2 dif an shaft then get a 2way they bite hard
i run lower pressure up front like 35 then like 45 rear sometimes 50
my friends that had stance run pbm now...well all but one lol
if your budgeting a lil more megan tracks are actually really nice
excedy clutch id do a 6 puck.
pinion snubber=10-15bucks stiffer dif mount=60 bucks or box the stock one stock 1.3 way is enough to start on with good coilovers an clutch then exhaust intake yada yada
GET COIL OVERS ASAP before any power
werd on t2 dif na dif isnt worth it grab t2 dif an shaft then get a 2way they bite hard
i run lower pressure up front like 35 then like 45 rear sometimes 50
thanks. It seem i didnt mention that i need it to be "street legal" since i live in california. I want it be able to drive on freeway and etc for little awhile until i build better funding for trailer and i would build it more from there.
I think im gonna swap out drivetrain from turbo model. S4 t2 tran, rear end and half shaft and ill research more into power by max. clutch.... im willing pay good money for it... whats wrong with exedy twin clutch kit?
#246
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thanks. It seem i didnt mention that i need it to be "street legal" since i live in california. I want it be able to drive on freeway and etc for little awhile until i build better funding for trailer and i would build it more from there.
I think im gonna swap out drivetrain from turbo model. S4 t2 tran, rear end and half shaft and ill research more into power by max. clutch.... im willing pay good money for it... whats wrong with exedy twin clutch kit?
I think im gonna swap out drivetrain from turbo model. S4 t2 tran, rear end and half shaft and ill research more into power by max. clutch.... im willing pay good money for it... whats wrong with exedy twin clutch kit?
#247
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happy st pattys day you *****
the 615's have a very specific tread patter (zig zag center) whichs probably helps divert water really well. We dont get much rain in Phx and i never drift in rain now that im turbo. i drive too aggressive for wet tarmac i guess
Id stay away from drifting in the rain, even though it makes the NA feel like a bridge port with a holset lol. Puddles will rip off BN, **** that. id rather rip off my bn due to a tap in a tandem, not ******* around in the rain.
guinness=fadedness
the 615's have a very specific tread patter (zig zag center) whichs probably helps divert water really well. We dont get much rain in Phx and i never drift in rain now that im turbo. i drive too aggressive for wet tarmac i guess
Id stay away from drifting in the rain, even though it makes the NA feel like a bridge port with a holset lol. Puddles will rip off BN, **** that. id rather rip off my bn due to a tap in a tandem, not ******* around in the rain.
guinness=fadedness
The have HUGE tread blocks.
That's what had me curious about em. Falken says they grip good in the wet.
I returned my set anyway but will probably pick up another pair in a couple months. Nankangs are cheap and provide good wet weather traction. I will dailly this thing until i snag a beater 240 around the fall.......
#248
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That is a really big pic.... Sorry guys.
Anywho, my brother and I popped my welded diff in today and because i had the subframe out allready to remove the 2 way we put a pinion snubber in. We PRELOADED that **** to some degree. Anyone else do that?!
I'm confident the diff mount will hold up awesome to clutch kicks and shift locking. It can't move any further than the rubber mounts will allow, which is probably not at all. I need to fill the rear diff mounts with window weld soon.
Stiffens them up. Not as great as delrin but it's a cheap and quick that doesn't require the diff to be removed from the car. Worked **** on my old ff car's motor mounts.
Anywho, my brother and I popped my welded diff in today and because i had the subframe out allready to remove the 2 way we put a pinion snubber in. We PRELOADED that **** to some degree. Anyone else do that?!
I'm confident the diff mount will hold up awesome to clutch kicks and shift locking. It can't move any further than the rubber mounts will allow, which is probably not at all. I need to fill the rear diff mounts with window weld soon.
Stiffens them up. Not as great as delrin but it's a cheap and quick that doesn't require the diff to be removed from the car. Worked **** on my old ff car's motor mounts.
#249
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i think this threads wondered off topic recently lol.
i am currently refocusing back to attacking my LCA fouling issues...
see my thread here for pics and mild explanation:
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...-green-65.html
But the overall question I have is what have poeple done o teh LCA's to get that extra lock and remove the fouling issues. I think I may have to go back to using a 17" up front again, but none the less i neeeed to change something as the cars nose slows down so much when the wheels rub the LCA... and not to mention my brake calipers are currently acting as bumpstops!
any advice or pics would be greatly recieved!!!
i am currently refocusing back to attacking my LCA fouling issues...
see my thread here for pics and mild explanation:
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...-green-65.html
But the overall question I have is what have poeple done o teh LCA's to get that extra lock and remove the fouling issues. I think I may have to go back to using a 17" up front again, but none the less i neeeed to change something as the cars nose slows down so much when the wheels rub the LCA... and not to mention my brake calipers are currently acting as bumpstops!
any advice or pics would be greatly recieved!!!
#250
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slidealliance (chase?) runs extended lower ball joints. He's also running 18x12 or some crazy *** front wheel like that on his white car. Pm him.
If you push the knuckle away from the control arm it also will push the rim lip further down where the lca tapers thus giving you more room.
There are guys out there now making their own lca's to allow for more lock clearance and bigger wheels so look foward to seeing those in the future.
If you wanted to, you could cut your lca out where it rubs and add bracing. Dont know much about welding cast aluminum so you should look into that but if it works, that would be the easy solution if you want to keep your wheels/offset.
Lower your car plz!
If you push the knuckle away from the control arm it also will push the rim lip further down where the lca tapers thus giving you more room.
There are guys out there now making their own lca's to allow for more lock clearance and bigger wheels so look foward to seeing those in the future.
If you wanted to, you could cut your lca out where it rubs and add bracing. Dont know much about welding cast aluminum so you should look into that but if it works, that would be the easy solution if you want to keep your wheels/offset.
Lower your car plz!