AGreen

iTrader: (11)

No knock sensor needed. You don't have a knock box, and I've been told they're almost worthless anyways. I ran mine without one and had no problems. I even ran it off the 88 convertible ECU and it ran just fine.

Red circle is plugged in wrong. It doesn't go on like that, it slides on from the side.

Green circle is for the heater.

2nd pic.... I don't know. I ditched it all when I swapped the TII in my vert. I did a front mount intercooler. Kind of a bad decision. Here's a link to a thread with a good colored S5 TII vacuum diagram. It shows the diverter valve plugged into the TID and routed to that aluminum pipe. If you do decide to go with a front mount, get a good aluminum radiator.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=TII+vacuum

As for the BAC, under the UIM there's a coolant nipple that sticks straight up in the back. It goes to right behind the water pump. If you go to a parts store and ask to see their heater hose selection, they'll take you behind the counter and show you a bunch of pre-bent hoses. You need one that is (I think) 3/8" inside diameter, and 11" long with a 90 degree bend at one end. I found one that was for some ford that was about 12" long, 90 degree bend, and about 6" on the other end. Just cut it to length, and it'll bypass all that coolant hose mess on the throttle body. Or Mazdatrix sells the proper hoses, but it won't help you with a removed BAC.

Just as a side note, have fun keeping an idle with no BAC.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Haven't got much work done in the last couple days. Been at my buddy Jordan's working on this....

600cc shifter cart. Should be ready to take for a spin tomorrow.

And while working on it I get to drool over his brothers RHD RB25 powerd 240 sitting on gram lights. Inspiration at it's finest.



Did get a little done though. Figured out a way to use my n/a throttle cable without having to mod the TB linkage. I'll get a pic up tomorrow when I have some light and you guys can tell me what you think.

Also finally found some vacume caps to cap off all the ports on the intake. I went to probably 10 diffrent places in the last week and no one had the right size. So now I can get the intake all sorted out. My friend with the 240 is giving me his old boost gauge cause he got a new one so hopefully I'll get that on tomorrow. Along with my fuelpump which I finally picked up. Tomorrow should be pretty productive, if I get everything I hope to done the car should be ready to drive as soon as my flywheel gets in.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Cool go-kart. Not a fan of 240's. I appreciate them, but just not a fan. The NA throttle cable will work. I've heard that you can flip the wheel over and it works just fine.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

I'm not the biggest fan of 240s, they're kind of the civics of drifting, but his is just so nice it's ridiculous.

I ended up not even having to flip the wheel on the linkage. I'll put a pic on once I got the Tb back on.
I found a t2 rearend that comes with a 5 lug conversion for $250 that I'm picking up tomorrow. I still need a clutch for the t2 though. Anyone know anything about the xtr clutch? They got them on ebay for $107 and I'm thinking about getting it to hold me over until I have the money for a good clutch. Here's the link to it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTR-P...Q5fAccessories

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

If it's just going to have to hold until you can afford a better one, then you should be ok. I'm wary of cheap clutches, the pressure plates like to chatter after only a few hundred miles, causing some serious drivetrain damage. The one I bought for my NA years back was from Autozone, and it was upwards of $200. Some sort of unknown off brand, and it literally worked for about 400 miles before the PP started giving me severe takeoff chatters. I replaced just the PP with the original (I keep old parts for some reason) and it never gave me any problems. The cheap disc worked just fine, except that the machine shop that cut my flywheel didn't do it right, and it ended up slipping soon thereafter anyways.

As for the 240 again, I'd say that the mechanical side looks nice, but it's sitting in a beat up junkyard-worthy car though. Looks too JDM-yo for my taste.... all RHD with zipties holding the bumper together, with that mini skirt body kit.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

The car really is in nice shape. That one fender is a little messed up though... It's a full on drift car though not a daily and he's not trying to win car shows with it. He knocks the bumpers off like once a week so..you know. It's a beautiful car for how hard he drives. To each their own though. He's acutally thinking about selling it and buying an FD, he wants a rotary. I told him he has my vote!

Anyways back to my car... Drove to Miami today and got my rearend. Now I have a full T2 drivetrain. Also got ACT 4 puck clutch in good shape off the guy for $100. It's got some surface rust but nothing that cant be fixed with some high grit sandpaper.


And my buddy with the go cart gave some old FD wheels for the back since it's going to be 5 lug. Yes I'm going to be running 4 lug in the front and 5 lug in the back for awhile...

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Is that a Supra diff?

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Nope an FD....Yeah **** my life. I didn't know what I was looking at and the dude took it out of his t2 but apparently someone who owned it before him had done some fab to make the FD rearend work. I didn't realize what it was till I got home and started taking mine off. I feel like an idiot but whatever live and learn I guess. I think I already found someone to buy it though and got an actual t2 rearend lined up to pick up on sunday.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Lol, **** happens, way to roll w/the punches...

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Picked up the RIGHT rearend this time for $350. Then the guy told me the car was goin to the junkyard so take whatever else I want. Ended up getting a clutch, slave cylinder, and a bunch of other parts me and some of my Buddys need.
Kind of made up for the other rearend I bought... Which I found out is actually to an rx-8...

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Awesome

Finish it!!

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Why don't you want the FD diff? It's a Torsen.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

you're making good progress and asking good questions with your project. i like it. the fact that you seemed to have gotten the N/A throttle cable to fit is something that i learned from your thread. now i won't bother fussing over getting a T2 cable for mine.
as i understand it, the complete rear end won't physically bolt up to the FC rear subframe. however, the centers are supposedly interchangable between the T2 and FD.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the kind words and motivation guys.

Molotovman, it actually turned out being an rx-8 rearend... The diff looks almost exactly like the FD though. It doesn't even come close to bolting up. Theres studs coming out of the top instead of the arms that the studs from the car go through on an FC.

Diabolical, I haven't hooked it up with the intercooler on yet so I'm not 100 percent sure it's going to work but I'll let you know. I know for a face though that people have used the n/a cable by flipping the linkage on the TB and taking some spacer out. You can find the how to on the club.

Now to my car. Got home from Tampa today around 2:30 and just got done working on it. T2 rearend is in. Here it is with the FD wheels on.



The FD wheels are down to the cords from sliding so I'll be useing my friends old BBS wheels until I get tires for them. I might buy just buy them from him.



I did run into a problem. The spring on the brake caliper that the ebrake connects to was like seized on the driverside. I sprayed in with some WD40 and worked with it for a while and it's better, but still doesn't completly disengage after you pull the ebrake. Any ideas? I was going to take it off my old calipers but don't understand how you take it off. I can't use my old caliper either because aren't the 4 lug calipers smaller then the 5 lug? Here's the part that is messed up.



One last thing. Anyone know why my front end is sitting so high? Maybe something I bolted back up wrong? It always sat high but this is ridiculous. It looks like a baja car! I thought it might be from being off the ground hanging for so long but I bounced it up and down and nothing. Even had 2 of my friends sit right over the wheel and it was still a little high. I can't figure it out!

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

if your front end is lighter then original, that can happen

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

That's what I was thinking but the only things really left to put on are the hood, TB, and intercooler. And between the turbo and intercooler and everything I'm sure this motor is heavier. Plus I had about 300 lbs of people sitting over the wheel and it sat about where it should.

iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

check where the springs are sitting. might not be in that little groove for the spring on the bottom

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Nope they're sitting where they should. I got some springs off of tein coilovers in the back so it sits pretty low. I think I'm just going to cut the fronts to even it out cause I can't stand how it looks right now. I know, worse idea ever and it's ricer, but I have an extra set of it ends up being to bad and I should have enough for coilovers in the next couple months anyway.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

She's alive!!!! Just started for the first time. So ******* pumped!

...Not getting fuel though, had to dump it right in the intake. I'm going to try to figure it out tomorrow. I though I might have the fuel injector connectors backwards between the primarys and secondaries but I tried it both ways and nothing. I took the resister pack out and wired all the wires together. That's what I was suppose to do right? What you guys think? I'm pretty sure I got the fuel lines right but I'm going to check them.

I'll have the video up as soon as I figure out how to get it from facebook to here...

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

The fuel pump is turning on. I took the fuel line off at the filter and gas shoots out when I turn the key so that's good to go. Something with my injectors then I guess?

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Fuel lines were backwards. It will start now but doesn't really like to stay running. It fires up every time but won't idle. I can rev it up pretty good but if I try to hold it steady at like 2k, it will stay for a couple seconds and then just drop off and I gotta keep tapping the gas to keep it from dieing. I thought the fuel injector clips might be backwards so I switched them and it was even worse so I put them back. I also tried adjusting the screw on the bottom of the TB and that didn't seem to do anything. What should I try next?

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

From what I looked up the part of the harness that goes into the water housing has one primary and one secondary fuel clip on it. Then the peice of the harness with the other 2 injectors has a primary and secondary. It also said the 2 longer ones go to the secondaries so I think I have it hooked up right.

The car will start and idles at about 600rpm for 10-30 sec then dies. If I give it gas I can keep it running but it stumples a lot if I try to rev it and then will just suddenly drop and almost die. Any suggestions guys?

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Ok it won't really let me rev it at all actually. If I put it to the floor it revs but keeps stumbling and won't go past 4k. Almost seems like a bad ground maybe? Where should I start looking for that. The 30 secs or so it does idle though it idles like a champ, nice and steady. Then it just dies.

Napsterfreak15

not enough fuel pressure is the what comes to my mind not sure though.

As for your ebrakes sticking mine did the same thing. i would have to hit the end of the ebrake cable to get them unstuck so I just got remans from orylies.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

I've got a walbro. I put some fuel in the intake and took the fuel line off so I could run the car and see how much fuel was comeing out and it was shooting out a steady stream. I don't know what else to try...