Too bad someone doesnt mass produce a shaft and 20b housing for cheap... I think alot more people would run them. Your looking at 8k very minimum to get a motor built with no aftermarket stuff.

 

The rear dowl pin area near the oil filter.

Sent from my iPhone using my finger.

 

Didn't realize the OP was asking what engine swap I should do? O and someone wanna let Kiiechi Tsuchiya that he can't drift because he was in a Hachi, or all the guys I know who have drifted stock NA miatas. The unfortunate part is there is a lot of good info with a cluster **** of idiots posting off topic bs.... to the OP anything new going on?

 

I love your FC.

Just out of curiosity, what wheel specs are you running in the rear?

 

I kinda went all out in my motor. I bought a dynamically balanced rotating assembly with low mile scalloped rotors. Opted for ceramic 3mm seals, omp delete, a nice large street port but nothing crazy. Over built? Maybe...but with water meth injection, a good tune and all my heat exchangers.... This motor should last me a while even at 450ish whp. I'll keep everyone updated.

 

^Sounds like a really awesome setup manny. How much did your motor build cost you?

 

Im running ALS seals 3 window bearings pinned s5 large streetport

Prolly has more done but I dont remember

 

Bla bla bla bla

 

Yea I just figured i may as well put it towards something that'll keep my car running... but not so proud of the price. Broke down like this

Full rebuild and street-port with all new motor parts, soda blasted/cleaned for. 3600 shipped. I bought a rotating assembly seperate with almost new 3mm rotors that have been scalloped, and the NRS 1pc 3mm ceramic seals came with it...as well as some atkins 3mm seals. And it was dynamically balanced by Atkins Rotary ...that assembly cost me 1850.00 after all was said and done shipped.

 

Intake manifold is hot hot hot! Any more pics?

 

they're 17x9 +12 all around, with a 20mm spacer all around.

17x9 -8, effectively. 30mm front fenders, stock rears rolled / pulled.

 

That's what I was thinking. Thanks!

 

I just spent half an hour cleaning up this thread, keep it on track kids and the name-calling to a minimum. Engine swap conversions pertaining to reliability for drifting are OK just keep it peaceful.

 

Thanks Jason!

20b's are reliable but very expensive.. Maybe 4 rotor N/A? But those are both 10k dollar motors.

 

Not known how reliable as it's a new build and likely to cost $75,000 but can you beat the sound of six rotors???

 

Hella info nee more thread counts.. But worth reading som material.

 

I would go LS but Im afraid that may not be in your budjet but still nice list

 

S4 TII rear irons crack at 28psi.
Fact.

 

Ready for round 1 paganizondadude?!?

Been almost a year, how good does she run?? Excited to see it hit the bank.

 

Guess not, didn't see you there paganizondadude... Really wanted to see the 20b.

 

Most people dont want to listen to that gayness tho...

 

Ahhh c'mon buckey everybody know chevy v8 is the most reliable haha

 

love this thread! cant wait to see how my large street ported fully built 13b does this summer!

 

Only round 5 left paganizondadude! Get out here with that 20b before the season is over?

 

Lol how is your tire trailer holding up?