you're thinking way too hard.

stock oil pan is fine. oil coolers were mentioned. <- cooling mods are common sense that wasn't really gone over. most of us need huge radiators just to drive the cars let alone beat on them.

lol dirty oil all day! idgaf! when i pull my motor apart i'm going to send the e-nerds pictures to prove how far "over thinking, and talking about doing stuff" really gets you in life.

my car isn't special. it's not one of those cars that just "magically work all the time" just keep **** simple, and keep the cooling system in check and don't be an idiot and the motor will be fine.

there are more idiot *** kids running around without FCD's running stock ecu, and bigger turbos/more boost, without any fuel behind their setups wondering why their cars cut out under load or blows up, on this forum than people actually doing things the right way.... you should go after them instead of trying to be a cool guy giving me **** about oil.... lol i do NOT give a **** - and i think it's so hilarious all you guys should be on a mobil1 commercial. srsly. you need to go hate on all the guys doing their own porting and wondering why their motors keep failing if you want to keep busy and spread your knowledge (opinion)

 

For reals. Its not hard. Just the basics to keep it cool, fueled, and drivable. No need for crazy stuff. KEY THINGS ARE keeping coolant and oil temps temps down after numerous runs, NEVER knocking, reliable internals, and not have your car fall apart..

dual oil coolers
big radiator with good fans
big fuel pump and injectors
standalone with good *** tune(not Rtek...)
rebuilt motor with good water and apex seals (RA, ALS, ect)


The rest isnt hard. Just a matter of bolting **** on...

 

my setup runs great now, more than 2 seasons deep.

RA seals
FD internals
Lucky 7 big streetport
RC 1,000cc secondaries
stock primaries
PnP hybrid turbo
Power FC
Koyo radiator
Mazdatrix oil pan baffle
walbro fuel pump
some FPR
STOCK topmount (lol)

I make around 240-250whp all day long. more than enough for 235's, and in pro-am. finished 8th overall out of 60 cars last year. less is more.

 

I'm going to steal your setup, this is exactly what I want in my FC.

 

RA all the way

 

LOL, cute little track, says the guy who has never ran it. We've had 2 FD drivers in their FD cars run it and like it. Same goes for many Pro-AM guys. I think if you ever ran your car here you would be pleasently suprised by the difficulty PARC offers a ballsy drifter. It's not Irwindale but it's also not a parking lot.

To Pagan, I hear you. I make $11 an hour and have a wife, house payment and a little girl coming in 3 weeks. The right parts and a good build will take a long time but will be worth it in the end, rotary or not. Don't let my going over to the darkside uncredit my comments earlier, I still love me some rotary. It was just cheaper and faster for me to go V8 at this point in my life.

 

I start Boeing in June. Then ill buy a 20b.

 

Have everything besides a cage and tow hooks. Just bought a new car so I have a financial bump for about 2 months. Then ill be getting back to building the car.

I was gunna talk to you on sunday but EVD.com said it was closed pits. I wanted to formally introduce myself. lmao

 

this motor is midway through its 6th season in a race car. has run 5 eurasia cup invitational road race weekends. countless practise days for drifting and probly around 30 drift comps.

new rotor housings, RA super seals, deep grove rotor bearings, proper tune!!! over kill maintanace.
this is all you need for a reliable rotary for drifting. things like the oil passage mods and the weber jets are just simply not needed. keep it simple and keep ahead of the maintanance. this car has run between 15-20lbs boost the whole time. i run 1/3 c16 mix to keep it safe and also run factory redline.

also it runs a garret gt35r tial 1.0 hot side. smallish turbo, super fast spool, and 425+ rwhp. great package. dont get caught up in the bigger is better turbo debate. its just not always true.

good luck on your build and if you would like more info just pm me.


engine started life in here...


needed a rush engine for this so i pulled it from the blue car a threw it in here...


now it resides here...



ALL THREE CARS ARE STILL ALIVE AND RUNNING ROTORIES!

 

Tune=reliability and longevity of the motor

Gotta have fuel too.... Puny *** stock fuel lines wont cut it


And dont be cheap! cant expect stock components to make good reliable horsepower... Spend the big bucks on parts and have a good tune

 

So lemme get this straight, if I want to be a great "drifter" I should negate power and reliability for donk styling, body kits, and to be just as good as the competition. Kk thanks, I'll be pro in no time!

Jk lol

 

I hate V8-swapped cars. Mazdas, Nissans, Toyotas they're just boring.

But you can't knock a guy for his is achievements. Who cares if it doesn't look super hella jdm fresh? Who cares if it's not cool? Would I like to see a rotary under the hood, awesome kit and wheels? Of course. But his setup is working, and working well it seems.

 

I guess given the choice I would honestly take a 400hp v8 rx7 over a 400hp rotary rx7. Before I generate a boat load of hate let me say both builds would be awesome to have and a 400hp rotary would be cooler to see. From an owners standpoint I would rather have fun knowing I'm not pushing the boundaries of my engine or risking a rebuild if something minor happened (like a short or standalone tuning issue). I know rotaries can achieve awesome HP numbers but when the nearest tuner(that can tune rotaries) is a 4-5 hour drive away and your only other source of knowledge is the ol reliable internet it kind of drains motivation to keep one. Some people are lucky and know the right people but you won't find a mechanic who doesn't know what a SBC is or how to modify one, even most average joes will know quite a bit about them...

This is just my view on it. Tweak keep killing it out there and any rotary only guys I hope you guys keep killing it too.

 

Ryan is my ******* hero!!!

Bro, i've done more with a stock turbo 240hp rotary than whatever it is you're attempting to do (**** talk) with your V8.

When i said seat time i was referring to your being 3rd in your series when i was points leader in mine with all but a bone stock rotary in which youre hating on. When you come at me comparing yourself to me, or how yoir motor is better than mine you will lose everytime until i see results in which i will give you the respect that you have earned. Until then keep your opinion to yourself.

Im actively building my car for FD. hence why i have not been driving. It takes a lot of money. As does living on your own, being a shop owner at 22, fully funding your own program.

Dont let the head trip get to you. Your v8 may work now, but it wont forever...

 

ya, tweak and bucky showdown at the track or bust. back to reliable talk guys. no more "get this other motor" stuff. talk mods, parts, or setup to make stuff more reliable. I think thats the point here.

 

one more round and I'll be 3 seasons deep on my motor.

cool shot from yesterday.




for the record - I went against Eric Hill in top 16 and I was hanging with his ASD 500hp LSx on 275's S13.

 

Awesome pic! How much power are you making?

 

about 270 on a hybrid turbo.

I posted earlier in this thread with my setup.

 

So I think a better way to be reliable (not cost friendly) is to build a 20b. Studded, doweled, and oem seal inside and out. Massive power and torque at low boost.

 

Just get one of these:

 

Miata POWER!!!

 

that doesn't count. we all know FC's have better suspension and can easily keep up with s13's.

V8 FC did pretty good last year buckey.

http://www.vegasdrift.com/wp-content...aseriespts.jpg

also i vote B16 swap. hit up pat(theshwconstipation) for advice.

 

pshhhhh................2jz. that is all. lol. the 3 rotor is probably a good power build but ya, money. as for miata, I think that would be a step backwards power to weight wise, no? haha, maybe more reliable though and thats the point.

 

OH, if you are running FC keg, rebuid with an S5 rear iron. I heard that S4 rear irons can crack under high boost/power (like really high though, 450+ I think).

 

hahaha I will publicly declare that george's car is a complete blast to drive. I can only imagine now with your big boy trans you got!

If I go pro next year or the year after, LSx is a high probability - although Jeremy and Kyle's cars assure me that a 13B is still a competitive motor . . . if you take the financial plunge haha. but it's FD, so you're going to go broke anyway.

mike feiock's setup was SICK too! what happened to that guy?