bewst12psi

iTrader: (7)

I've done MS on Ford Probes back in the day... built the board, added GM knock modules in the expansion boards , ran them parallel and standalone...all that happy ****. I've done SDS on 400hp FE3 1st gen's too. I've done DSMlink open Source Subaru and Evo tuning w/ tactrix stuff, Nissan ROM tuning, and Neptune. Ive done Hondata, AEM, PFC's, and out of all the **** i've used, messed with and installed over the past 10 years... out of it all, I'll take my Haltech over anything. ****, I just built a patch harness for my GC8 subaru.


Honestly, After about 10-15 hours of just messing with my PS1000 and reading the manual, it becomes ridiculously simple to use. I wouldn't go back to anything. The fact that I plugged it in and Loaded a base map, set the trigger timing, and the car fired up sold me on it. I'm over building boards... there are 7 year old chineese children that I'd be taking a job away from.


The Ms3 is actually nice, and finally has a map bigger than 12x12... but as I get older, I'd rather pay an extra $500 and be able to PM Scott from Haltech at 2am and get an almost instant reply with any off the wall issues. Plus the Interface is so much cooler

sil8ty

i just had to say something regarding this.

if your style is to be a ***** and do this then go for it.

there is absolutely no reason why you can't drive a v8 the same way as a rotary. i rev limit and clutch kick mine like it still has a turbo.

only reason i went v8 is because i HATE building motors. rather be driving than elbow deep in feeler gauges and premix.

Zenki FC3S

13b REW with ALS apex seals and a 60 series turbo... DUNZO!!!

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

You just sold me on a Haltech.

If i ever build a 12a PP ill go MS. but otherwise it seems like Haltech is a better option....

leftcoastdrifter

iTrader: (17)

Hey hey hey, me and my rotary are still here, 2 years later on the same STREET PORTED 13B. And Ninja's has been going for 5 years as a DD and a drift car, not ported of course. No rotarys in the NW, hater

I agree with Bucky, porting kills. My engine has a small street port but that wasn't my choice (it's a LONG story). The key to ANY rotary engine lasting is to remember, "ROTARYS ARE ALLERGIC TO STUPID," keep that in mind at all times and you should be drift worthy for a long time.

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Theres nothing wrong with porting. It's just 95% of the people out there porting do Crap jobs. Think of it like this..... Would you let just anyone build you a cam shaft for you piston motor? just because the port looks like it's precise doesn't mean it is. You can't just open up the port and think it's going to last. It needs to be done correctly....just as a lot of companies take a lot of time developing stage 2+ cam shafts. If you have crap ports... your motor won't last.....simple as that.

budgetslashcry

Low water temps, low oil temps, low exhaust temps, high fuel pressure

fbse7en

If your poppin' your engine...your doing it wrong.

Ianetti or NRS Ceramic apex seals (BMI Racing's P-Port 4 rotor Rx-8 has been going strong for over 18 months w/o a SINGLE ENGINE ISSUE running the NRS seals) <-repeat that last bit til it sticks. Sidenote: P-ports put the MOST stress on the apex seals of any style of port cuz the seal is "bowing" into the p-port...
-^^Those seals ain't cheap...but ya gotta pay to play sometimes...

Cryo treated apex seal springs

Teflon encapsulated silicone coolant o-rings/seals http://www.creavey.com/

Flawless cooling system, for your coolant AND oil....(dual-oc's)

**Mazda rotaries have more endurance race wins than any other type of engine, best believe they are absolutely reliable, when DONE CORRECTLY.**

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

but you only go to PARC right? which is a south oregon event. i live in seattle, i'd have to spend half a day in traveling just to get there.. you guys don't count as "the northwest" LOL


here's the deal; sure, it does work, and has worked for a lot of people, you're completely right. it's not that it's BAD, it's that there are a lot better options.

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

this!


i'd rather pay alot once, than pay a little 3, to 4 times over, and most importantly break mid event due to skimping on quality parts.

Although i've never tried either of the above kits, i've heard alot about Ianetti being one of the best seals around.

I've only had good results using my RWS Rotary Aviation 2mm Super Seal Rebuild kit and the things i have seen my motor go through - makes me a firm believer in how good they can be when built right.



Say no to the V8 movement - if swaps must ensue - please, pleaaasssee do a JZ swap.... no one enjoys listening to camaro's.

3rd gear - 10psi - not lifting throttle. enjoy the sounds.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...type=2&theater

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

+1 for RA super seals.. their water seals are best too.

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

Buckey is right. JZ ftw! Speaking of JZ... I rode in a 2jz FC the other day with a megasquirt and stock twins at 15lbs. UNBELIEVABLY fast...


Sounds like lots of good from the RA stuff then..

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

i've watched this a bunch, makes me wish i could make my rotary work.. lol the 50 second mark and on is just..

+1 jz swap. that's what im doing! now if only i could get someone to buy my re so i can afford the jz....

fbse7en

Here's all u need to know about apex seals, very good stuff.

http://www.rotaryeng.net/history.html

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

i wish he was filming the chucking, and i also wish i didn't hit that nuts *** rumble strip sending me in spin cycle haha i must've listened to it that many times too just for the sound. it's honestly the only motor i've had where the setup as a whole just works so good. i'm scared to change it because it works so good.


stock/upped boost VVTI 1jz is basically just as fast as my car on 8psi with the 35r
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1fUuOGqT2o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUw6JWfwMDE


if i ever build a missle car i'd honestly consider doing an LS, or (1st) an NA-T 2j

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

Laura @ RA is super cool. Always helping out with advice. They will sell individual pieces to help out which is really cool. Plus the pricing is not bad either! When i was hanging around Area-77/Euro Asia last year that's all they used in all their builds (my same builder is still with my car) and not a single one has blown yet, or came back with any issues. I honestly think they're idiot proof.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/

budgetslashcry

2j would benefit just about every japanese car haha

and ill take 400-450whp from the 2j over an N/A motor any day of the week. Low end torque seems great since most of the pros are using v8's, but the inline 6 has great torque and is fast as hell... high entry speeds > slow smoke machines

1-2j + another $1000 = 400whp easy

leftcoastdrifter

iTrader: (17)

Your about 5 hours off there buddy. PARC is in Canby, about 30 minutes south of Portland. Your probably thinking of Drift Evo, which is 5 hours away from me and I'm in Salem, Or. And no, I don't just run PARC. I drifted at PIR back in the day, a ton of Thunderdrift events while I went to school in Sac, Ca., and the Hoodoo events before the tree huggers closed it down. I also tried to run PGP but they shut the doors on new guys the event I actually could have made

leftcoastdrifter

iTrader: (17)

So as to keep on topic....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfO6KOxvr50

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

So bottom line of this thread is...


Build an LS or a JZ?

Zenki FC3S

REW= thicker irons
Als= unbreakable seals
Haltech= great ecu

what else do ya need homie??

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

word you're missing the point. stock TII motor - RA seal kit (or ALS whatever) and a haltech.


it's really simple. swap's cost money. you're motor isn't costing you anything sitting in there. it's mounted, running, wired, there.

swap you have to buy, and then make work.

my vote goes to RA/RWS seals. I'm a strong believer. You should definitely consider them as a first choice for your build.

Stock seals are cool because they *supposedly* have a great chance at not eatting the housing/rotor when they crack/eject. My philosophy on this matter is: get seals that don't break. less time wasted. less effort pulling motors, and less money spent.


get a haltech, and just start there until/if you blow up your current motor. drifting is not rocket science. lol

got_apex?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOsBo7OxKag

959595rotor

I see no one has mentioned oil coolers , ,Big rads , or higher oil pressure(125lb,or FD Mazda or Racing Beat oil pressure regulater.. or Drift (Race)Style oil Pans like ..Morroso with Baffle plate or a custom built oil pan to stop oil starvation in hard corners ...you can build all the fast Engines you want but if it runs hot, from poor tuning ( going lean) ,or poor cooling , from small Rads , poor air movement and cavitating water pumps or with (dirty oil ..ps you know who you are )or low oil leading to a oil pressure loss, the rotors gonna get tight , its going to push the seals out or weld them together , with the E-shaft .. Rotarys are like women treat them good and you can have all you can handle , treat her Shitty and she going to leave you to,party on your own

I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

ive heard crazy good things about RA seals thats what my motor is built with if your gonna do it dont cut corners on drivetrain cause in the end itll just wind up being more expensive then anything else