paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

tatakai ill need lots of help this winter if your down to come out to my shop and help! Ill need help with the megasquirt for sure. ***** hella confusing...

Buckey im gunna read that whole thread.. Lol Just started...

Im with Buckey... the omp is complete and utter JUNK. Id rather run a 50:1 premix (like Kyle Mohan does) and have it smoke a little...

A full time track car should change oil at like 1500 miles...

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

you're on your own with that one lol, the only thing i'd run on my rotary was power-fc. and i know tweak had haltech on his..

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

maybe i'm weird but i always run too much premix... lol usually per fill up i'll run 15-18oz

if i street it i'll do 1oz per gallon (but go to 15oz on fill up = 14.6gallon tank)
if i'm beating on it at the track i eye ball it. usually end up @ 18oz of premix per fill up.

i usually get 2-4 events per set of factory plugs. should change them each time but again, i don't.


the only thing i do change every 2-3 events is my fuel filter. i'm paranoid about the fuel system not being 100% 24/7. after every event the intake comes off, and i check the injector o rings for melting/heatcracks (happens pretty often) along with fuel leak with the key on.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

The haltech was pretty good for what it was when I had it on my 13b-RE, never liked the built in boost controller so I had to get a c02 powered boost controller. Can't really complain about anything else though.

I have setup a couple Megasquirts in my poor NA-T rotary days, and would have been happy to help, but you already burned those bridges. Good luck.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

dont waste your time on MS bullshit. get a cheap haltech e6k/x and be about a billion times happier.

i wasted 3 years of my life trying to save money on that diy bullshit.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

My policy is over build, under abuse.

I've been running a 3mm seal Atkins motor on stock S5 turbo at 10-14psi with 720 secondaries and rtek 1.7 for 4 years now and around 80k miles. The last two years have been track duty. Hell, I drove it to Sevenstock. It dynoed 200rw at 10psi.

90% of rotary longevity is in the ecu. Tuning or shitty ecu. Everyone here is Motec or Haltech. I'm personally running rtek because I don't want to tune.

I'm also building a 5.3 Lsx for my track shell. I'm learning from the other v8 guys.
The V8's seems to be temperamental in drifting. Some love it while others magically disintegrate pistons.
For those, I want to do
Oil Baffle, oil pump, arp studs, and PS cooler

J.T.P.

iTrader: (13)

not to discredit J-lowe on his engine buidling skills, the engine has definitely been put through hell and back... but as for numbers... Dan has never been on a dyno, so how do you know it makes 350+? although I'm sure with his new turbo it's definitely over the 350whp mark..

J-lowe is definitely right with saying it's all about the tune.. and just putting the engine together correctly.

I ran a street port with all factory mazda seals/gaskets for 3+years at 460whp with no issues.. it's all about the tune.

bewst12psi

iTrader: (7)

+1

laramiejoe

We dyno'd Dan's car with his old turbo and it made 360something, but ran into a couple problems and stopped. That was a couple years ago though. Who knows if those problems ever got fixed? His car has never really been tuned other than some street pulls one night.

J.T.P.

iTrader: (13)

ah ic.. dan said he never got on a dyno, so i was wondering if those numbers were arbitrary..

laramiejoe

Yeah that was back when he first put his old turbo on, and we originally tuned it one night on the street. It's just gone down hill since haha. Hopefully one day he gets motivated to make it run good, but he doesn't like doing anything on his car that doesn't involve welding. haha

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

Smoke much buckey?

I dont see whats wrong with megasquirt. The new ms3x doesnt need any soldering or putting together. And its easy to install. I dont think ill have a problemwith it.. Its also got the 2nd vr for the trailing coil and can do all the rotary split timing. Im also gunna run it on full seqential mode! MS has come a long way..

Tweak id actually really like your help with the ms install if you wanna help. Id pay you a few bucks even..

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

You're right. Clearly I'm brain dead and have no history with ms3. Clearly i had no idea that prebuilt computers were available since ms1v1.

In all honesty, you're going to spend 400$ on a crap shoot ms3 with no harness and a requirement to become very intimate with a system that you paid someone else to build. Or you could do the time d again proven method like previously suggested and live a happier life.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

Rotary split timing is available on ms2v3. Could save some cash that route.

I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

yea last time i talked to him he said pretty much what jeremy just said and his motor definitely sees its fair share of abuse

driftfcbuckey

iTrader: (8)

my haltech e6k was $450 shipped. it was missing a few things like the plug in fusebox portion, along with it not having any engine sensors (to be expected). i think i paid about $800-$1000 to have it wired/base map tuned, and street tuned to drive on it when i first got it running. it did this for this event:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWoJ5...eature=related

then my tuner hooked it up on a free retune for the 35r when i decided i wanted to throw it on 6 days before FD Vegas. missed the thursday/paid practice doing street tuning. it did some of this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3tg2...eature=related

and some spinning out with tons of rad *** rev limiter:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRv2s...eature=related


this whole time my car has yet to see a dyno. i really want to know what it puts out but i really don't care to spend the $150/hr to do it. all in all to date i'm less than $1500 into my haltech setup, and we've never spent more than 45mins to an hour messing with the map. haltech is definitely the way to go $$$ wise. everyone always says the DIY/megasquirt stuff is cool but everyone i know that says that also goes on to say that they like RTEK as well.

my RTEK 1.7 blew up 6 motors. i will never go back.
my stock n332 ecu/fcd/deleted emissions, and unhooked wastegate did more of this than i can even remember:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=impDPfJAIbk

i do not miss stock ecu at all. i cant agree with everyone more regarding the standalone/reliability issues. go haltech/microtech and never look back.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

Michrotech is worse than ms. I bought a lt12x for my 20b. Spent a ton of time getting it set up. Turner came down to finish the process and we had more problems. We wound up opening it up. I discovered it is exactly the same components that ms uses, just a prettier box and a 150% mark up on price. Sold that **** next day. Following week bought a ps2k. Had my car running in under 30 minutes.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Since the conversation has shifted to ECU and such. I was looking at this a while back:

http://www.haltech.com/index.php/maz...-now-available


I was thinking about picking this up and tuning my NA. Then down the road I can swap the motor right in and have it tuned from there.

Zenki FC3S

pretty cool, but all the fun is taken out of installing it when it comes"plug in"

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

How do you mean?

paganizondadude

iTrader: (1)

I just dont understand why you all think MS is bad. It is proven with 100s of different cars. And it works awesome. Whats so bad about it?

Haltech is cool but im no sure i want old school e6k and ****..

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

its bad because rotaries have a glass jaw. one ping and you crack your apex seal. one anything and the engine is fucked really.

and ms is built on trial and error. build/buy computer. build harness. install everything. hook to lap top. install base map.

then you have to drive around adjusting the dashpots in the computer so it doesnt get noise but gets enough signal from cas to know when to spark. noise, interference, garbage.. ms is highly susceptible to it all. and ms is very fragile. alternator surge=board fried. throw e6k under 10 miles of salt water and it still works.

its your call but you asked for advice. i wound up selling all my ms **** for dirt cheap. even my ms3 with sequential. the day that stuff got shipped off was a day of bliss. bottom line is. if you want to drive then get something legit. if you have hours upon hours troubleshooting and testing and trying then go with ms.

personally, i just dont have the time for it anymore. if you do wind up going with it though, im an open book and you can ask me to tell you all i know.

Zenki FC3S

uhhh soldering the connections... that kit comes prepped out. **** that


e6k= winning.

save your money for turbos or tires or rims or kits or drugs...

ih8dsm

MS is a lot more work then you think like stevensimon is saying its really trial and error and on a non interference piston motor its not as big a deal but rotaries its a whole different story.

Basically it boils down to the old saying you can have it cheap, fast, reliable pick 2. On a car that you plan on beating on (which is what this thread is about) why skimp out on something as important as a ecu.

13bdarren

365whp 322tqr on ms 2 @18psi . I have had my issues but so have other on much more pricey setups. Once the ecu is setup to the car. It is no different then any other. But ms3 is one of the most powerful ones out there. In the long run you learn way more about tuning and building by running the ms setup. It is not for everybody. I know I can get way more whp with some more tuning. So if you want a little head scratching with big self rewarding experience go with the ms ecu. Other then that buy something your tuner want you to use.