This is the pricing for rotary engine rebuild costs. If a engine needs a extra housing(s) or rotor(s) there will be a additional rebuild cost. All of our engines are backed by over 30 years of rotary experience.

1983-85 12a
$1,550.00 rebuild with OEM apex seals, $2,000 w/streetport
$1,350.00 rebuild with Aftermarket apex seals

1984-85 GSL-SE
$1,690.00 rebuild with OEM apex seals, $2,000.00 w/streetport
$1,490.00 rebuild with aftermarket apex seals

1986-91 non-turbo
$1,760.00 rebuild with OEM apex seals $2,060.00 w/streetport
$1,560.00 rebuild with aftermarket apex seals

1986-91 turbo II
$1,951.00 rebuild with OEM apex seals
$1751.00 rebuild with aftermarket apex seals
$2,301.00 w/streetport $2,401.00 w/race port


1993-95 REW (And RE)
$2,403.00 rebuild with OEM apex seals. $2,750.00 w/streetport $2,850.00 w/race port
$2,203.00 rebuild with aftermarket apex seals

1992-1997 20B-REW
$2,938.00 rebuild with OEM apex seals. $3,638.00 w/streetport $3,788.00 w/race port
$2,638.00 rebuild with aftermarket apex seals

20B converted to n/a engine-

Add $500.00 for n/a rotors
Add $100.00 for used exhaust sleeves
Add $700.00 for balancing

Total- $4,938.00 n/a 3-rotor
Total- $4,938.00 n/a 3-rotor

 

Those are some very good prices. Do you expect them to change much within the near future?

BTW, any idea how far Pataskala, Ohio is from Chicago, IL? Just wondering......

 

do you guys do engine pinning? if so what a rotor housing going to cost?

 

The prices are solid for a while, so dont worry. Chicago is 380 miles, or 6 hours from Pataskala, Ohio.

 

Yes, we can do pinning, you are asking for a complete engine to be done or just one housing?

 

What about rotor mods like some of the freakish looking pics I've seen out there, like increased displacement or compression ratio? Ways to make mad power by attacking the rotors themselves (in addition to / as opposed to the housings).

My car is a '90 GXL by the way, all stock, but I'm going to need a rebuild soon.

Thanks.

 

Increased compression ratio can be done with a ceramic coating, although I am not super comfortable with it. I do not know of any way you can increase the displacement, you would have to give me a example for that one. Scalloping the rotors we currently can do, but the wait is a little long. I am hoping to do those mods in house in the near future! Let me know when you want to get some work done!

 

Guys, if these guys's engine building is even 50% as strong as their tuning is, nobody has anything to worry about! These guys are top ******* notch!

Ty

 

The quality of the work was never in question. I've seen that monstrous thread about the NA20B FD. That's crazy stuff, and I want in on it!

I thought it might be possible to increase the displacement by removing a slight bit of material from the tub on each of the 3 rotor faces. But I've never heard of anybody doing it.

I saw the pic of the "scalloped" rotor in the 20B FD thread, but I have no idea what that means or does. It looks cool, but can you explain it?

Thanks,
Brrian

 

30 Years of experience is nice, but it doesn't mean much without a warranty. What are your policies?

 

Scalloping allows for earlier intake port opening time, or later closing time, or both depending on which end of the rotor has the machine work done to it. It is the missing link between a street port and a bridge port. So far we really enjoy this type of engine!

 

If it is being installed into a stock vehicle, then the engines come with a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty.

 

I meant to answer the first question too! The method you are describing will only lower the compression, not yield higher displacement. Unless the width of the rotor/housing is made wider, or the entire engine is made larger in diameter, no increasing of displacement can result.

 

Two questions then:

(1) So then would *adding* material (in a flawlessly balanced way, of course) to the tubs on each of the 3 faces result in a compression increase, since removing material here decreses it?

(2) What kind of power gains would an NA S5 get from this scalloping procedure, both alone and in conjunction with a large street port, and how much do you charge for the service?

Thanks

 

1) Yes, adding material into the tubs will result in a compression increase. however most testing has proven that much past 10.5:1 only a power loss results due to the rotary needing a decent "tub" to provide a pocket for the flame front to push on.

2) Scalloping will net a 10-15% increase in torque. This increase will be added to a standard port, and for a street port. If you want to see a dyno of 152 ft-lbs on a dyna-pack (reads 8% lower than dyno-jet) Check out the bottom of "customer dyno charts". Price for scalloping is $500 per pair of rotors currently.

 

Is that why the factory pockets aren't smooth at all, but are rough and "unfinished", to allow more surface area for the flame to push on?

 

well, the factory had used casting finish on all rotors up to 1988. Then in 1989, they started to machine finish the "tub" to make sure they were all exactly the same size. The flame front will push on the tub the same regardless of the texture, but the finish can decide how much heat transfer takes place.

 

Nice prices.

 

ho much for shiping from utah

 

Give me a zip code, so I can give you a correct estimate.

 

um 84119

 

Shipping will be $160.00 to that location

 

do those prices include a core or can i just buy a rebuilt motor from u. i'm looking for a s4 turbo II to replace my s4 6 port.

 

These prices are for the rebuild cost, with your supplied motor. If you want a Turbo II engine, there will be a core charge, and we tehn can offer a trade-in value for your 6 port.

 

im considering a rebuild from the bronx, ny 10458 how much would the shipping be ?