Zack's AutoX and DD build thread---Savanna FC3S
#51
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Here's a link to the dual sheave pulley set, they are black in the picture so they will theoretically appear stock and since they are a reliability mod it shouldn't bump you out of stock class.
RX7 1986-1992: Cooling System: Alternator and Main Drive Pulley Set - Double Sheave - 74-92 Rotary Engines (All) -
RX7 1986-1992: Cooling System: Alternator and Main Drive Pulley Set - Double Sheave - 74-92 Rotary Engines (All) -
The thermo will be here monday, and it's looking like that IS probably the problem. The fluctuation is irregular, I haven't had a problem for a couple days, then today it decides to run hot again until I turn on the heat full blast. The heater is working, however... sooo...
My theory is that it is partially stuck. Because that's all that makes sense to me. But I'm likely wrong, so...
Also, I had some fun clay barring my car for the first time today. It just dusted off this haze that was obscuring a beautiful vision of my reflection in my bonnet... I'll be moving over the rest of the car slowly for the next week or so.
Last edited by 88GTU_AutoX; 10-13-12 at 01:54 AM.
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I'm basically gonna keep my 6 port S4 n/a when I build it with streetported exhaust ports and for my next project get an FD rolling chassis from a guy in town and order a JDM engine and transmission, rebuild both and bridgeport the engine, run larger injectors and swap the twins for a GT35R single turbo, and do a body similar to the RE-Amemiya kits or a JGTC body for time-attack
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I'm basically gonna keep my 6 port S4 n/a when I build it with streetported exhaust ports and for my next project get an FD rolling chassis from a guy in town and order a JDM engine and transmission, rebuild both and bridgeport the engine, run larger injectors and swap the twins for a GT35R single turbo, and do a body similar to the RE-Amemiya kits or a JGTC body for time-attack
I'm liking the 6-port right now, and I'll probably end up building it for road race sometime in college. I just need it to stay DD...for now, anyway...
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Dang... That thermostat did the trick. It's running an eighth of an inch off of the bottom line in the "running range"--WAY lower than it had been before I even perceived the problem.
And I also installed a new antenna, a non-retractable one of rubber. I can now listen to music in neighborhoods!
And I also installed a new antenna, a non-retractable one of rubber. I can now listen to music in neighborhoods!
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Wow. Results just came in from my first race in E-stock... First trophy ever!!! (including the entire year I spent with my Civic...
Perhaps it was just third, but that was against a field of mr2s, miatas, and a Porsche!
3rd out of eighth. Here are the Final Results:
Final Results, #10 - 20121007_Event10 - Sun 10-07-2012
I just got really happy.
Perhaps it was just third, but that was against a field of mr2s, miatas, and a Porsche!
3rd out of eighth. Here are the Final Results:
Final Results, #10 - 20121007_Event10 - Sun 10-07-2012
I just got really happy.
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UPDATE (advice): I was just testing my 5th and 6th ports to see if they opened, and the port closest to the firewall (easiest to see) opened just past 1/3 of the length of the actuator shaft--is this fully extended? Or may I not have enough backpressure?
Thanks!
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Thanks, man! That's clearly what I'm focusing on...
UPDATE (advice): I was just testing my 5th and 6th ports to see if they opened, and the port closest to the firewall (easiest to see) opened just past 1/3 of the length of the actuator shaft--is this fully extended? Or may I not have enough backpressure?
Thanks!
UPDATE (advice): I was just testing my 5th and 6th ports to see if they opened, and the port closest to the firewall (easiest to see) opened just past 1/3 of the length of the actuator shaft--is this fully extended? Or may I not have enough backpressure?
Thanks!
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I'll get back to you on the results.
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The car is prepped and shined for its second event!!! The slicks are in the trunk and the new numbers are on the sides... (unfortunately, I recalled too late that the numbers are to be twice the height of the letters, but one event will be fine. )
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The Halloweenie Event is finished!! And Savanna held up!!
The numbers (roughly):
Wheeler: 61.4
ME: 62.9
Baumer: 64 somethin'orother!!
8-9 other people who I smoked!
The R-comps hooked up great, as it was a bit warmer, and I went out harder and better than I had before. Here are some videos of me during the last two runs (last being the fastest):
3:
4:
KCRSCCA Halloweenie 2012: 1988 RX-7 GTU (Run 4) - YouTube
What do y'all think!!
PS: this event has put me into the year-end trophies...
The numbers (roughly):
Wheeler: 61.4
ME: 62.9
Baumer: 64 somethin'orother!!
8-9 other people who I smoked!
The R-comps hooked up great, as it was a bit warmer, and I went out harder and better than I had before. Here are some videos of me during the last two runs (last being the fastest):
3:
KCRSCCA Halloweenie 2012: 1988 RX-7 GTU (Run 4) - YouTube
What do y'all think!!
PS: this event has put me into the year-end trophies...
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So: NOT much of an update.
Replaced the oil and filter. God I love the rx7. THE FILTER IS RIGHT ON THE TOP. WHY DOES IT ALL HAVE TO MAKE SO MUCH SENSE?
(unlike my civic, which housed it's oil filter in between the middle of the engine block and the firewall--thanks for that Honda!)
So, yup.
and @shadowscreed, START YOUR BUILD. I want to follow along...
Replaced the oil and filter. God I love the rx7. THE FILTER IS RIGHT ON THE TOP. WHY DOES IT ALL HAVE TO MAKE SO MUCH SENSE?
(unlike my civic, which housed it's oil filter in between the middle of the engine block and the firewall--thanks for that Honda!)
So, yup.
and @shadowscreed, START YOUR BUILD. I want to follow along...
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
What oil did you use? Lol I have heard so many different crap I don't even know what to use
Hope that helps.
#71
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Originally Posted by 88GTU_AutoX
Well, I was actually having the same problem. I researched pretty well on rx7club, and found some stuff from Icemark that essentially said, as long as it has the API seal, and is the right viscosity, use it. So, use API sealed, non-synthetic, 0-10w30 oil. I used 5w30...Penzoil?? I believe? and it was "high mileage" labeled.
Hope that helps.
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I'm sure it's just fine, as long as it isn't full synthetic. I can't remember anything about the GTX line. If it is full synthetic, and you've already filled your engine with it, I'd recommend draining it and putting in non-synthetic asap.
If you've not heard anything behind this reasoning, it's because of the small injections of oil that the rotary naturally makes through the seals. Some synthetics do not completely burn, and leave behind carbon and junk that the engine doesn't want. Full petroleum oils burn completely, however.
Hope that helps, too!
If you've not heard anything behind this reasoning, it's because of the small injections of oil that the rotary naturally makes through the seals. Some synthetics do not completely burn, and leave behind carbon and junk that the engine doesn't want. Full petroleum oils burn completely, however.
Hope that helps, too!
#73
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Originally Posted by 88GTU_AutoX
I'm sure it's just fine, as long as it isn't full synthetic. I can't remember anything about the GTX line. If it is full synthetic, and you've already filled your engine with it, I'd recommend draining it and putting in non-synthetic asap.
If you've not heard anything behind this reasoning, it's because of the small injections of oil that the rotary naturally makes through the seals. Some synthetics do not completely burn, and leave behind carbon and junk that the engine doesn't want. Full petroleum oils burn completely, however.
Hope that helps, too!
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/newowner.htm
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On the topic of oil, I've been running Castrol synthetic blend where it's 50/50 and I run a 20W-50 for the past year that I've owned my GXL, but I also live in Arizona so I don't have to worry about low temps, at least not low enough for a 5W, 10W, or 15W. For my build I'll be ordering boxes of Idemitsu 20W-50 from Rotary Performance/ rx7.com in Texas.
Last edited by Shadowscreed; 10-29-12 at 01:44 PM.
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On the topic of oil, I've been running Castrol synthetic blend where it's 50/50 and I run a 20W-50 for the past year that I've owned my GXL, but I also live in Arizona so I don't have to worry about low temps, at least not low enough for a 5W, 10W, or 15W. For my build I'll be ordering boxes of Idemitsu 20W-50 from Rotary Performance/ rx7.com in Texas.