Zack's AutoX and DD build thread---Savanna FC3S
01-27-13, 11:48 PM
#101
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That sounds like the issue, Shadowscreed. I'm going to try to find the break again. I'm just not very sure of where to look on the mount for a break...?
And thanks, Simon! I got started in AutoX in my civic, but this rx7 is SO much more fun around those corners. I'm aiming for 1st in Estock this year, which is a very competitive class in the kcrscca (about ten competitors per event).
And thanks, Simon! I got started in AutoX in my civic, but this rx7 is SO much more fun around those corners. I'm aiming for 1st in Estock this year, which is a very competitive class in the kcrscca (about ten competitors per event).
01-29-13, 09:26 PM
#104
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Same. 4 runs unless it's a short course.
The one annoying thing is that the winter is a huge disruption in the season. We don't even have next season's preliminary schedule...
The one annoying thing is that the winter is a huge disruption in the season. We don't even have next season's preliminary schedule...
02-02-13, 01:20 PM
#105
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Quick update: just popped on my new RB sway for the front, and it feels like it's on rails! It also goes sideways more predictably. 
I've certainly got an edge for this season.
I've certainly got an edge for this season.
02-03-13, 02:20 PM
#107
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Fun! I'm so happy with how this upgrade turned out. Next on my list: diff mount, shifter bushings, and exhaust. In that order.
Also, I'm quite pleasantly surprised with the reliability of the engine. I just passed 190k, I've never had a starting problem (even in the cold! 0°F), and it never gives me something I can't handle. My Holy Grail for my dissertation for my M.E. doctorate will be over materials and designs for apex seals in the modern Wankel engine. In a few years...
Also, I'm quite pleasantly surprised with the reliability of the engine. I just passed 190k, I've never had a starting problem (even in the cold! 0°F), and it never gives me something I can't handle. My Holy Grail for my dissertation for my M.E. doctorate will be over materials and designs for apex seals in the modern Wankel engine. In a few years...
02-04-13, 10:39 AM
#108
$If you want a good street exhaust for a budget and want to keep the cat for the pickup tube for the actuators then I recommend CorkSport's Power Series exhaust, it's a single exit but so far I'm happy with it and it bolts up to the stock cat flanges. If you've got more to spend and want pure power gains and plan to do porting on the exhaust, then I recommend Racing Beat's Road Race True Duals system for the 6 Port setup, buying the exhaust with a full hanger kit from Racing Beat, you'll spen roughly $1400.
I warn you though, I recently made a mistake during my rebuild. I ported my exhaust and it flows great, nothing wrong there, but I also beveled, ported, and slightly enlarged my intake ports and now have too much airflow to where the ECU can't make air/fuel corrections for the engine to start or idle. So now I've either got to install my Haltech E6X or F9, or I have to teardown the engine again and use my spare side and intermediate housings with stock ports to make it run with the stock ECU. XP
I warn you though, I recently made a mistake during my rebuild. I ported my exhaust and it flows great, nothing wrong there, but I also beveled, ported, and slightly enlarged my intake ports and now have too much airflow to where the ECU can't make air/fuel corrections for the engine to start or idle. So now I've either got to install my Haltech E6X or F9, or I have to teardown the engine again and use my spare side and intermediate housings with stock ports to make it run with the stock ECU. XP
02-04-13, 03:43 PM
#109
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I'd love the corksport. My only question is trying the exhaust volume. How much louder is it than the RB on stock cats? (I really don't care how loud it gets on acceleration, but the idle has to be manageable.)
02-05-13, 10:09 AM
#110
I haven't tried the RB street header, but I was running my CorkSport header without the cat being hooked up cause I had to cut it out of my stock exhaust due to it being welded together, at idle it was fairly quiet considering I have almost a race port on my exhaust ports. When I can I'll post a video from youtube of how mine sounds after I get the Haltech put in this week. Also I'm going to update my photobucket and post a link in my thread with all the new pics
02-06-13, 01:39 PM
#113
make sure your front sway bar isn't binding. the poly bushings most sway bars come with tend to, un-hook it from both end links and make sure it moves freely, if it doesn't add some washers under the brackets until it does.
you also want to replace your endlinks, mazdatrix offers some nice cheap ones out of spherical bearings.
86-92 Suspension Parts
I'd also recommend koni yellows instead of bilsteins for stock class, you can adjust the attitude of the car without having to revalve them. bilsteins are going to be pretty soft with stock valving. The sad part is they don't make koni's for FCs anymore so you'd have to find used ones... (they're rebuildable)
or you could have somewhere like fatcat motorsports revalve a set of bilsteins... but that's getting expensive.
you also want to replace your endlinks, mazdatrix offers some nice cheap ones out of spherical bearings.
86-92 Suspension Parts
I'd also recommend koni yellows instead of bilsteins for stock class, you can adjust the attitude of the car without having to revalve them. bilsteins are going to be pretty soft with stock valving. The sad part is they don't make koni's for FCs anymore so you'd have to find used ones... (they're rebuildable)
or you could have somewhere like fatcat motorsports revalve a set of bilsteins... but that's getting expensive.
02-06-13, 04:08 PM
#114
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make sure your front sway bar isn't binding. the poly bushings most sway bars come with tend to, un-hook it from both end links and make sure it moves freely, if it doesn't add some washers under the brackets until it does.
you also want to replace your endlinks, mazdatrix offers some nice cheap ones out of spherical bearings.
86-92 Suspension Parts
I'd also recommend koni yellows instead of bilsteins for stock class, you can adjust the attitude of the car without having to revalve them. bilsteins are going to be pretty soft with stock valving. The sad part is they don't make koni's for FCs anymore so you'd have to find used ones... (they're rebuildable)
or you could have somewhere like fatcat motorsports revalve a set of bilsteins... but that's getting expensive.
you also want to replace your endlinks, mazdatrix offers some nice cheap ones out of spherical bearings.
86-92 Suspension Parts
I'd also recommend koni yellows instead of bilsteins for stock class, you can adjust the attitude of the car without having to revalve them. bilsteins are going to be pretty soft with stock valving. The sad part is they don't make koni's for FCs anymore so you'd have to find used ones... (they're rebuildable)
or you could have somewhere like fatcat motorsports revalve a set of bilsteins... but that's getting expensive.
So far as shocks go, I'm reasonably happy with the stock setup for now, as they are much stiffer and more predictable than even my Koni yellows were on my old Civic. They likely will be the last thing to be added. Plus used Konis are hard to find...
02-06-13, 10:32 PM
#116
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This is probably the worst place that you could've asked that question. 
I'll answer it anyway.
Every 3000 miles, oil change. DONT FORGET. And replace the other fluids as they fall below full or every year or two. That isn't the official say, but it's a good policy. However, if you notice that your fluids are low, you know that there is a leak, and just refilling wont fix that.
Another thing with rx7s that one must remember: they are SUPPOSED to burn a bit of oil to free up the seals. I believe that it's about a pint every 1500 miles. Just top it off once or twice in between changes.
Another thing never to do to an rx7 is to drive it hard when the engine hasn't warmed up--the compression isn't all of the way up and you could screw up your engine badly. Also, don't drive for short distances (driveway to garage or similar). If the engine isn't warm when shut off, it will flood because of how rich it was running before turned off. My dad did it to my car. *facepalm* It's really annoying to get it to start up again.
Ask somewhere else next time.
I'll answer it anyway.Every 3000 miles, oil change. DONT FORGET. And replace the other fluids as they fall below full or every year or two. That isn't the official say, but it's a good policy. However, if you notice that your fluids are low, you know that there is a leak, and just refilling wont fix that.
Another thing with rx7s that one must remember: they are SUPPOSED to burn a bit of oil to free up the seals. I believe that it's about a pint every 1500 miles. Just top it off once or twice in between changes.
Another thing never to do to an rx7 is to drive it hard when the engine hasn't warmed up--the compression isn't all of the way up and you could screw up your engine badly. Also, don't drive for short distances (driveway to garage or similar). If the engine isn't warm when shut off, it will flood because of how rich it was running before turned off. My dad did it to my car. *facepalm* It's really annoying to get it to start up again.
Ask somewhere else next time.
02-07-13, 02:04 PM
#118
Here K Double J, this link should help you and answer most of your questions, it's a great guideline for the FC's and 7's in general.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...49#post5131249
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...49#post5131249
02-11-13, 09:16 AM
#120
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Well, a quick update is in order.
A couple days ago, I finally got tired with the crappy sound system in my 25 year old rex, so I decided that a small sub was needed to fill out the low end and low midrange. I picked up a sub, amp, box, and speaker wire-to-RCA inverter (so I don't have to buy an aftermarket headunit) all from the same guy for $80, and I'm about 1/2 way through installation (running but not pretty).
The cool part: the system, once finished, will be completely invisible, as the box is going to replace one of the storage compartments (as in the lid will close over the top of it) and the amp is going to be hidden down there as well.
I'll put up some pictures tonight!
A couple days ago, I finally got tired with the crappy sound system in my 25 year old rex, so I decided that a small sub was needed to fill out the low end and low midrange. I picked up a sub, amp, box, and speaker wire-to-RCA inverter (so I don't have to buy an aftermarket headunit) all from the same guy for $80, and I'm about 1/2 way through installation (running but not pretty).
The cool part: the system, once finished, will be completely invisible, as the box is going to replace one of the storage compartments (as in the lid will close over the top of it) and the amp is going to be hidden down there as well.
I'll put up some pictures tonight!
Last edited by 88GTU_AutoX; 02-11-13 at 09:17 AM. Reason: clarification
02-11-13, 10:30 PM
#121
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Here's a few pics of the system:
As you can see, the only visible change is the dissappearance of the lock. It dipped too low to keep.
On the other hand, the sound quality is KILLER. Absolutely no rattling, inside or out, and it's very well balanced. All for $80. It's also reasonably easy to remove for autox.
As you can see, the only visible change is the dissappearance of the lock. It dipped too low to keep.
On the other hand, the sound quality is KILLER. Absolutely no rattling, inside or out, and it's very well balanced.
All for $80. It's also reasonably easy to remove for autox.
02-15-13, 11:46 AM
#124
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And thanks for the praise on the sub! I'm very satisfied with the sound quality in the cabin, and it doesn't wake people up, so it fully accomplished everything I wanted.
Last edited by 88GTU_AutoX; 02-15-13 at 11:56 AM.
02-16-13, 11:58 AM
#125
Well I realized it's not a Bonez catback system but it's the dual cat system with the Rotary Performance Catback that's $400 new. But the whole system was bought from Rotary Performance, and is about as quiet as the stock system and allows a slighty less restriction and is a y-pipe and dual muffler system. The stock catback I have is in good shape and if bought I would probably buy new bolts for it and possibly gaskets before shipping it depending on price. If you need anything else for your FC let me know and I'll see if I have it. I've got a lot of spare parts from engines, transmissions, ECU's, two Haltechs with harnesses, wiring harnesses, interior parts, etc.