Zack's AutoX and DD build thread---Savanna FC3S

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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 01:50 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
Here's a link to the dual sheave pulley set, they are black in the picture so they will theoretically appear stock and since they are a reliability mod it shouldn't bump you out of stock class.

RX7 1986-1992: Cooling System: Alternator and Main Drive Pulley Set - Double Sheave - 74-92 Rotary Engines (All) -
That's a good point... I'll make a note of that.

The thermo will be here monday, and it's looking like that IS probably the problem. The fluctuation is irregular, I haven't had a problem for a couple days, then today it decides to run hot again until I turn on the heat full blast. The heater is working, however... sooo...
My theory is that it is partially stuck. Because that's all that makes sense to me. But I'm likely wrong, so...

Also, I had some fun clay barring my car for the first time today. It just dusted off this haze that was obscuring a beautiful vision of my reflection in my bonnet... I'll be moving over the rest of the car slowly for the next week or so.

Last edited by 88GTU_AutoX; Oct 13, 2012 at 01:54 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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Awesome, look forward to hearing more next week. Once my build gets up and under way I'll let you know.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
Awesome, look forward to hearing more next week. Once my build gets up and under way I'll let you know.
I'll definitely follow up with you.
What are you building yours for?
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Autocross to start but I want to get into Club Circuit and Road Racing and eventually get into some drift events like XDC
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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I'm basically gonna keep my 6 port S4 n/a when I build it with streetported exhaust ports and for my next project get an FD rolling chassis from a guy in town and order a JDM engine and transmission, rebuild both and bridgeport the engine, run larger injectors and swap the twins for a GT35R single turbo, and do a body similar to the RE-Amemiya kits or a JGTC body for time-attack
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
I'm basically gonna keep my 6 port S4 n/a when I build it with streetported exhaust ports and for my next project get an FD rolling chassis from a guy in town and order a JDM engine and transmission, rebuild both and bridgeport the engine, run larger injectors and swap the twins for a GT35R single turbo, and do a body similar to the RE-Amemiya kits or a JGTC body for time-attack
Well then... Big plans? Sounds ambitious, GL!
I'm liking the 6-port right now, and I'll probably end up building it for road race sometime in college. I just need it to stay DD...for now, anyway...
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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Dang... That thermostat did the trick. It's running an eighth of an inch off of the bottom line in the "running range"--WAY lower than it had been before I even perceived the problem.

And I also installed a new antenna, a non-retractable one of rubber. I can now listen to music in neighborhoods!
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Wow. Results just came in from my first race in E-stock... First trophy ever!!! (including the entire year I spent with my Civic...
Perhaps it was just third, but that was against a field of mr2s, miatas, and a Porsche!
3rd out of eighth. Here are the Final Results:
Final Results, #10 - 20121007_Event10 - Sun 10-07-2012

I just got really happy.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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That's awesome man, keep it up and keep practicing to shave more time off your runs and soon you'll place first
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
That's awesome man, keep it up and keep practicing to shave more time off your runs and soon you'll place first
Thanks, man! That's clearly what I'm focusing on...

UPDATE (advice): I was just testing my 5th and 6th ports to see if they opened, and the port closest to the firewall (easiest to see) opened just past 1/3 of the length of the actuator shaft--is this fully extended? Or may I not have enough backpressure?

Thanks!
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 88GTU_AutoX
Thanks, man! That's clearly what I'm focusing on...

UPDATE (advice): I was just testing my 5th and 6th ports to see if they opened, and the port closest to the firewall (easiest to see) opened just past 1/3 of the length of the actuator shaft--is this fully extended? Or may I not have enough backpressure?

Thanks!
If you're only free revving it then the ports won't fully open because they aren't under load.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
If you're only free revving it then the ports won't fully open because they aren't under load.
I've done the grease test under about 6-7 1st gear pulls... But I'm going to try it again today. I think that they opened up today; I really felt some power I hadn't felt before... possibly because I had grease on them and moved them manually. They could have freed up a bit.

I'll get back to you on the results.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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Okay, worst case scenario is you'll have to pull the manifold and find the the valves for the port sleeves are bent and causing extra friction
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 11:34 PM
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The car is prepped and shined for its second event!!! The slicks are in the trunk and the new numbers are on the sides... (unfortunately, I recalled too late that the numbers are to be twice the height of the letters, but one event will be fine. )
Attached Thumbnails Zack's AutoX and DD build thread---Savanna FC3S-image-2362871990.jpg   Zack's AutoX and DD build thread---Savanna FC3S-image-3961816914.jpg  
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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The Halloweenie Event is finished!! And Savanna held up!!

The numbers (roughly):
Wheeler: 61.4
ME: 62.9
Baumer: 64 somethin'orother!!
8-9 other people who I smoked!

The R-comps hooked up great, as it was a bit warmer, and I went out harder and better than I had before. Here are some videos of me during the last two runs (last being the fastest):

3:
4:
KCRSCCA Halloweenie 2012: 1988 RX-7 GTU (Run 4) - YouTube

What do y'all think!!

PS: this event has put me into the year-end trophies...
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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Those were some good runs
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
Those were some good runs
Thank'ee kindly.
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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So: NOT much of an update.
Replaced the oil and filter. God I love the rx7. THE FILTER IS RIGHT ON THE TOP. WHY DOES IT ALL HAVE TO MAKE SO MUCH SENSE?
(unlike my civic, which housed it's oil filter in between the middle of the engine block and the firewall--thanks for that Honda!)

So, yup.

and @shadowscreed, START YOUR BUILD. I want to follow along...
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 10:29 PM
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What oil did you use? Lol I have heard so many different crap I don't even know what to use
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
What oil did you use? Lol I have heard so many different crap I don't even know what to use
Well, I was actually having the same problem. I researched pretty well on rx7club, and found some stuff from Icemark that essentially said, as long as it has the API seal, and is the right viscosity, use it. So, use API sealed, non-synthetic, 0-10w30 oil. I used 5w30...Penzoil?? I believe? and it was "high mileage" labeled.
Hope that helps.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 88GTU_AutoX

Well, I was actually having the same problem. I researched pretty well on rx7club, and found some stuff from Icemark that essentially said, as long as it has the API seal, and is the right viscosity, use it. So, use API sealed, non-synthetic, 0-10w30 oil. I used 5w30...Penzoil?? I believe? and it was "high mileage" labeled.
Hope that helps.
I picked up 10 w 30 sae Castrol gtx high mileage. Is it ok? Lol
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
I picked up 10 w 30 sae Castrol gtx high mileage. Is it ok? Lol
I'm sure it's just fine, as long as it isn't full synthetic. I can't remember anything about the GTX line. If it is full synthetic, and you've already filled your engine with it, I'd recommend draining it and putting in non-synthetic asap.

If you've not heard anything behind this reasoning, it's because of the small injections of oil that the rotary naturally makes through the seals. Some synthetics do not completely burn, and leave behind carbon and junk that the engine doesn't want. Full petroleum oils burn completely, however.

Hope that helps, too!
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 88GTU_AutoX

I'm sure it's just fine, as long as it isn't full synthetic. I can't remember anything about the GTX line. If it is full synthetic, and you've already filled your engine with it, I'd recommend draining it and putting in non-synthetic asap.

If you've not heard anything behind this reasoning, it's because of the small injections of oil that the rotary naturally makes through the seals. Some synthetics do not completely burn, and leave behind carbon and junk that the engine doesn't want. Full petroleum oils burn completely, however.

Hope that helps, too!
It's non synthetic. But I found this site that made me pick 10w30

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/newowner.htm
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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On the topic of oil, I've been running Castrol synthetic blend where it's 50/50 and I run a 20W-50 for the past year that I've owned my GXL, but I also live in Arizona so I don't have to worry about low temps, at least not low enough for a 5W, 10W, or 15W. For my build I'll be ordering boxes of Idemitsu 20W-50 from Rotary Performance/ rx7.com in Texas.

Last edited by Shadowscreed; Oct 29, 2012 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
On the topic of oil, I've been running Castrol synthetic blend where it's 50/50 and I run a 20W-50 for the past year that I've owned my GXL, but I also live in Arizona so I don't have to worry about low temps, at least not low enough for a 5W, 10W, or 15W. For my build I'll be ordering boxes of Idemitsu 20W-50 from Rotary Performance/ rx7.com in Texas.
What was your reasoning for the 20w50? I have heard that is the better choice when you are racing almost all of the time, or in a t2, but I can't figure out why it is used in the NAs...
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