Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

These are links to the parts and I can take pics of mine.

Rotary Performance Exhaust page- http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fcexhaust.html
Dual cat system- http://rx7.com/store/rx7/FCdualcat.html
RP 50mm (2" ID) catback system- http://rx7.com/store/rx7/RP50.html

I would sell this altogether with pickup tube for roughly $400 + shipping

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the late reply--I've been a bit dazed for the past week with all of this snow.

@Shadowscreed, I'd love to take that off of your hands...when I get the money. I'll let you know if it comes in, though it may be awhile.

A quick update, the car is in great shape, the snow just made things more fun (as evident in this next picture):


The car has recently tried to overheat once, and the coolant buzzer has been intermittently going off while I'm in idle. I'm 90% sure that it's from an air bubble, and I'll be burping it tomorrow to see if it takes care of the problem, followed by a much needed dose of KeepCool, and finished in a couple weeks with a full cooling system flush and fill. I'm done with this overheating crap.

Other than that, it's all good.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

How high did the temp get and were there any other symptoms?

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry--the engine has NEVER been over halfway. It didn't quite reach that point this time, but rather I had some odd small temperature fluctuations while driving at either mild or wild pace.
I think that these symptoms point to an air bubble, but correct me if I'm wrong.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Air bubble or thermostat beginning to fail.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

I'd pull the thermostat neck and check the thermostat. If you need to replace it I recommend a Mazda OE thermostat. Theoretically an air bubble shouldn't trap in the system, and should vent itself through the overflow tank, or the release valve/outlet at the top of the thermostat neck

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

I'm reasonably sure that my T-stat is good considering I replaced it with OEM spec in the fall...However, in the t-stat neck the fluid isn't topping off at the top of the neck...Which would suggest that I did something wrong... -.- gahhh....

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it's supposed to be topped off in the neck but I'm not sure. I've only topped it off in the neck when I had blown coolant seals and had to run it because I was losing water. But other than that I've never had problems with air bubbles until I had blown seals. Do you have an rpm surge when idling

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

And aftermarket oem replacements have never lasted or worked properly in my experience and from what I've heard. Even companies like Atkins Rotary, Mazdatrix, Rotary Performance and Racing Beat don't recommend using anything other than the Mazda thermostat.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

No to the RPM surge.

I'm not sure how to fix it...I'll try a few more things, but any one or none of them may work. Ahh well... I'll figure it out.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

It's good that there isn't a surge. It's possible that you have a bad heater core and replacing or bypassing it would be the fix if that's the case. Could also be a bad BAC.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Why would the BAC valve cause this problem? I thought that the only thing that the sensor reads is the coolant level in the filler neck. Would that affect it?

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

The BAC is the bypass air control valve located on the driver's side of the dynamic chamber in S4 engines. I've never heard of one going bad but I know that coolant flows from just below the neck through the BAC then around the back of the intake and down into the engine. I have all of this removed on mine and run it directly across the top of the engine.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

I see. Right now, I haven't had a single buzzer go off in a couple of days, so if it's air, then it must have worked it's own way out since I fed in some coolant myself. Of course, it could just be stuck in the heater core. Whatever. As long as my car isn't overheating, I guess I'm fine.

Also, my first event this year is coming up quickly at the beginning of April. I'll try to grab some video of that and post it quickly.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

coolant just flows through a bracket attached to the BAC, it doesn't actually flow through it. It's just there to heat the BAC up a bit in the winter.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I wasn't entirely sure on it just knew that the coolant ran through it and that a new one is $700. I went and removed and blocked off a lot of things in part to clean up my engine bay and in part to get rid of emissions equipment.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Also, can't wait to see the new vids I've got one of mine running before I had to tear it back down but waiting on the new corner seal springs and corner seal plugs from atkins to arrive then putting it all back together

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The BAC/water setup is analogous to a very crude waterblock in a liquid cooled PC, it just works in reverse.
Frankly, I think it's a halfassed system and could probably be removed with little practical consequence because I can't believe it's very effective.

That said, when I renovated my intake I lapped the waterblock thingie to the body of the BAC and used Arctic Silver thermal paste, just like with a processor/heatsink.
Even as I did it I thought it was stupid.

Which didn't stop me.

The BAC btw, is working beautifully...a fact I attribute to it's nice warm winter waterjacket.

El_kenny

She's pretty clean man. I love seeing a car that was well taken care of.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, man. I appreciate it. Though more than a bit of it was the previous owner, who owned it for 25 years.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Quick update:
The car is running well, though some more alternator issues are coming up.
The first race day of the season--a test and tune--is coming up this Saturday, so I'll be posting videos afterward. The week after is a solo school and an event that I'll likely attend.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

Well, first event done (test and tune), and the car ran well. Afterwards I checked and realized that I was low on oil, which I fixed up right away. That's the cause of the buzzing noise from in-car. Anyway, the engine is running cooler, the car is staying flatter (front sway), and it's overall just a bit faster.

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

I'll just put this here.


My new exhaust.

(The silencer is in the mail!!!)

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Looks and sounds great bro. It's not too loud, mine's louder lol

88GTU_AutoX

iTrader: (1)

bahaha... I believe it, but we have a homeowner's association with TEETH... I'm putting a Magnaflow res/muff on it within the week, along with a silencer if necessary after the magnaflow is installed. I also am hoping that the new muffler will cut down on the rasp and buzzing... :/

On a different note, I'm in the market for an FD alternator, as this is my second s4 alt and I am done with 70 ***** little amps...

Also will be repacking wheel bearings within the month...

As for autox, my car is no longer Estock because of the header. I am now in street touring. So. I'll also be looking for a radiator to fix my cooling problems, as that (I believe) is in class specs.

Anyway, glad to be back in business, sort of.