Somehow EFI parts keep multiplying....

 

Let the swap begin! The wife was a super huge help in getting the OM617 out today. I was able to get the rx7 transmission tailhousing off, and swapped the B2200 tailhousing on. Some slight differences, like the shifter forks needed changed but a few roll pints banged out and everything dropped in. A little hondabond and slapped it back together. I'll finish cleaning up the center section once I know it doesnt leak fluid...Hopefully tomorrow I can mate the trans to the motor and plop it in to prep for motor mounts. The stock mounts on the truck will need cut off, and then new mounts created wherever the engine lands. No clue where that will be yet.

 

Didn't get as much done today as I wanted, but the engine and trans are "in"

The stock truck mounts had to be chopped off. The 12a rear oil sump will fit but it's interfering with the suspension cross brace. I have a spare one so I'm going to weld them together so I can space it down and clear the oil pan. The shifter fits in the stock spot great. Once the engine is spaced down I should have enough room for the slave cylinder. Currently it's interfering something fierce. I'll need to take the stock engine brackets and extend them a bit to fit.

One of my favorite parts of this project is nothing is perfect about the truck so I can cut and chop and not feel bad. Really good learning experience.

 

Couple small wins today. Stock b2200 clutch hose works attaching to the slave cylinder. I had a simple bracket laying around that worked to hold both ignition coils. Before making engine mounts I made sure the AC compressor would fit. Its snug, but looks like it'll be fine. Should be getting some scrap steel tonight to build the engine brackets. Once they are in place, attention can be switched to mounting the radiator, oil cooler and wiring.

I'm on the lookout for a FC power steering pump, and the tensioner stuff if anyone has those bits laying around.

 

It looks so tiny in there!
On the engine mounts- you may want to wrap them around the frame slightly to extend the lower support.

 

That should be pretty easy to box in from the bottom. I have a bunch of side work queued up so I need to bang that out before I can spend more time on this. That's a good idear though!

I did spend a few minutes at work today and identified the wire colors needed to start running wire. Tonight's low effort plan is to get a ground cable, and power cable run to the starter and or alternator.

 

This little flux core welder works decently more goodlier than I expected. I ended up running out of wire right as I finished the first bracket. I'll take a sanding disk to it and smooth out the ugly, then quick rattle can it.

Should have the other side done tomorrow after an alternator on an e39, and pull a head off an e30.

 

Getting down to the end here. Should be able to crank it up very soon. Its not 100% "finished" but it's assembled enough to move in and out of the garage so I can get back to doing side work in there. Only two things left are to figure out where the springs on the carburetor go back to for tension, and wire up the fuel pump to a switched power source. I'm thinking once I get it running I'll pull the motor back out or just lift it up, clean up the engine brackets and paint them.

Is it perfect? Hell no. But I'd say that's pretty okay for a swap done in 10 days.

 

AC, PS, and heat next.

 

Yes! I have the PS and AC pump sitting on the shelf. pS will come first. Shouldn't be too hard to make up some lines since I have both hose ends to work with.

Thanks to Derek Hall, I was able to get it to fire off tonight. Missed a couple small steps...I didn't know which ignitor was leading or trailing, turns out those were backwards, i had the timing wheel 90° out as well, oops.

Once we got that sorted I had some smoke out the exhaust but no firing off ..not even a sputter. A quick spurt of brake cleaner down the intake got it to fire off. Then we tried fuel right down and it fired off. So we know timing is right ...I just need it to deliver fuel reliably. So if anyone near Delaware has a stock Nikki they want to lend or let me borrow I would be grateful. I want to get this running on EFI once the other systems are sorted out...

 

Awesome man! Hopefully you can get a carb quickly and get that out of the way, you'll be humming along in no time. I'm expecting to see a single digit plate on that truck or "hmmm" to match the advertising from the era that engine was manufactured in.

 

It runs! After some float adjustment and getting the choke engaged it held an idle. So now once I get the exhaust hooked up I should be able to dial in the carb. Buddy should be helping with the exhaust and get the center support bearing reinforced. So excited to hear it run!

 

I have successfully done the thing.

 

Put a few short trips on the truck sitting in stop and go traffic, and sprinkled in some sustained highway cruising. I had taken my dad out one evening to burn some fuel out the tank since I'm pretty sure I have residual diesel in there causing some smoking at idle. We were cruising down the highway and everything just cut off and went blank. I feared we popped a fuse...but it ended up being the positive terminal wasn't fully seated and caused a short/pitted area on the terminal and post? Very weird...never seen it before. Anyway after smacking the terminal down and adding some fresh leading plugs it's been humming along happily. 100% needs another muffler and or one of the racing beat presilencers. It has a nasty rasp right around 3000 rpm where you want to be so there's been a lot of short shifting and keeping it around 2000 rpm. I guess now that stuff works I can work on EFI and visuals/paint.

 

What's your exhaust piping size? I've been very happy with a Borla XR-1 in my exhaust and you would probably like the way it sounds too.

 

I think its 2 1/4"

I'll look that up. do you have any videos of how it sounds?

 

Little spray paint goes a long way.

 

Are we missing a second picture here?
I'll have to look for a sound clip. I can attest though, it's a solid choice.

 

Well I got the diesel out of the tank finally. Turns out diesel is heavier than gasoline so it ran like crap until I was able to clear all of that out. Now it looks like I have the floats adjusted too far the wrong way so it's a wee bit rich and smokes at idle. Its fine while driving but idle can be smokey enough to feel embarrassing at stop lights.

The FC power steering pump fits and literally hooks right in...I need to bend the lines a smidge, and I need to locate an accessory pulley and we should be in business for some power steering!

 

That PS pump was a nice win for you.

 

Got the pump installed, works great! I had a small oopsie though...when I put the PS on, the bracket on the water pump thats for the fan clutch was hitting the PS belt - so it looks like when it started running it bounced off the belt and now the pump has some wobble to it. Not yet currently leaking, but I picked up a backup pump for when the inevitable happens.

On another note, the ITB setup is "complete" and ready for install! I think the last major thing to purchase is a wideband and have the bung welded in. All thats left after that is to slap it on, run the wires and fire it up. The wires are chilling in the bay ready to be run and then wrapped. the ECU is hooked up in the glove box and simply needs wired to a switched 12v source to power everything.
I purchased the microsquirt from a gentleman on facebook in a megasquirt page that pulled it off for a speeduino IIRC. He was running a dakota with a v8 on the micro....4 injectors per output. and the coils were all in wasted spark too. bizarre.

Since the micro uses the same AMP style connector I was able to depin it and use a few of my unused leads from the MS3pro to replace ones that were too short. otherwise for the most part I left the harness in tact how homie had made it. No point in redoing it if its close enough here.

This is a Dellorto side draft style manifold with a 45mm "DCOE" style throttle body. I opted for the longer intake manifold to try and maximize whatever torque I could. Derek Hall helped walk me through sizing everything and making the right choices. Guy really knows his stuff with these and is a great asset to have.

 

I did a thing.

 

Here's a fun one for the 20b nerds.

My two engines are 3 digits apart. What are the odds of that. 743 in the FC 746 in the Cosmo.

 

that is super cool!

 

oooh, tell us more about the new purchase!