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In my stupor I never bothered to check which series the 20b was before negotiating. It is a pre-A code block which has the smaller/weak dowel landings. I planned on starting with NA but that really limits power potential going forward.
I wonder if better tuning/resolution we have these days would mean I can still run a medium sized turbo without issue.
In my stupor I never bothered to check which series the 20b was before negotiating. It is a pre-A code block which has the smaller/weak dowel landings. I planned on starting with NA but that really limits power potential going forward.
I wonder if better tuning/resolution we have these days would mean I can still run a medium sized turbo without issue.
You can stiffen up the keg a bit by having the irons machined for beefier studs in lieu of the tension bolts. Agree that a modern ECU with the better control capabilities and engine protection features can make it safe to turbocharge. Just don't go too crazy with the boost and it'll be fine.
Darrick, what do you mean with the oil pan? I can't see that doing much unless it were a billet pan.
Pete thanks, maybe I'll see ya at cars and coffee when it runs and this virus is gone....haha
So apparently this has been known for the last 10 years but I did not know. The modern GM LS temp sensor drops into the factory waterpump sensor hole M12x1.5 instead of needing tapped like the older GM sensor. Same sensor calibration so no change there!
Well, looks like my thick iron is donezo.....gonna be looking at a billet plate to replace it. IRP says it's not really repairable. Really a shame considering how good it looked outside of the water damage...
Anyone have recommendations on billet plates they prefer?
Rotating assembly has been dropped off with Rotary Science for balancing and to be side clearanced. Depending on if my thick iron is salvagable....the motor might be getting a whole lot more aluminum instead of iron.
Mike @ Rotary Science found that I had 2 B weight and 1 E weight...thankfully he had a spare rotor close enough to get it sorted.
Lastly, he just picked up a new machine for lapping and may be able to salvage my thick iron. That would be a huge help. looks like I never posted the damaged plate, here are a few shots of the damaged plate and rotor from the 20b.
Its nice when it runs right, lol. Rolling into first gear just lights em up. Second gear hooks pretty good. It's been so long since I've driven it more than once a month and now that Im driving more there are a lot of little rattles and squeeks I'd like to eliminate. Anyone have tips? Maybe adhesive felt between anything that overlaps?
20b is moving along. Rotary science in Virginia beach is getting the lapping machine up and running and he's confident the iron will be salvageable with minor pitting that shouldn't be bigger than a side seals width. Hopefully 2022 will be the year.
Rotary Science in Virginia Beach got the fat iron lapped down and it looks like its going to be smooth enough to run. There shouldnt be any compression loss even though it looks ugly. We were able to keep the cut below Mazda's recommendation of 8 thou so there is no modification to the cooling jacket required.
Thats half the reason why I'm doing it. Noise, no boost for reliability, and the ability to put A/C back in the car to make it a much more streetable car.
The goal at the end of the tunnel here is to be able to hand my wife the keys and she can drive it if needed. it should be that drivable.
Thats half the reason why I'm doing it. Noise, no boost for reliability, and the ability to put A/C back in the car to make it a much more streetable car.
The goal at the end of the tunnel here is to be able to hand my wife the keys and she can drive it if needed. it should be that drivable.
Very cool. Thanks for that. That would make a lot of sense moving the engine back how they did so I can retain a stock radiator location and then condenser as well. It doesnt look like they cut up the subframe, just the oil pan?
Very cool. Thanks for that. That would make a lot of sense moving the engine back how they did so I can retain a stock radiator location and then condenser as well. It doesnt look like they cut up the subframe, just the oil pan?
now that i'm looking at it again, maybe the firewall too, its really squared off
The 20b is ready to go in the car. A couple dowels thanks to John Renna / Dan McVicker to build it right and an evenings effort from @antman0408 we got the motor assembled. Can't wait to get this in the car purring like a kitten.
I posted this on Faceonk yesterday.....CLR just told me that's too tight, we need .004 minimum. Can anyone confirm?
