FCJG15

iTrader: (18)

Had a pair of those seats and I junked the, because I was young and dumb -_-

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Oh no!!!! We all make mistakes.

FCJG15

iTrader: (18)

Mistakes don't even describe. It was a GTUs and I junked the rear diff, brakes, and anything I dubbed unnecessary -_- if only I knew!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

oh no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think I would cry.

I regret selling the white car I got years ago....the whole "not running right" was just a vac leak somewhere..but I didnt know! I wish I knew then what I know now... the damn thing had a stuck seal and ran like crap....so I drove it and broke the seal free making it run GREAT.

vid:

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

before...



after....



the glovebox latch plastic BROKE off when pulling the dash, so I bolted the latch in with a pair of bolts. it latches fine but now it vibrates and squeeks while driving

I also found out that the gold car had a BRAND NEW drivers window switch. the foam is still in good shape where the plug goes. That will be going in the GXL once I do the relay mod

FCJG15

iTrader: (18)

If you need a latch for the glove box I'm pretty sure I have one or two laying around I could sell you. P.m. me if interested

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I have the latch, and it closes and opens just fine. If you've ever taken the glovebox out, you know theres 2 screws that go straight up and hold the latch in place, that screw into the dash plastic. The plastic broke, so there was nothing for the latch to screw into. So what I did was put a 10mm nut/bolt through it to hold it in place.

FCJG15

iTrader: (18)

Oh that works haha. I should do that where my dash is broken....

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I have honestly done nothing to this car other than put premix in it and beat the crap out of it once or twice on every drive....I went to the DMV to get the emissions readout since the first time it failed so bad (2000+ HC) he bypassed and didnt get a printout. This time it passed no issue....WEIRD!!!!

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Flogging the **** out of FCs is the best maintenance remedy I know of :-)

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Waiting for the TII update!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Stop giving away all the secrets!!!

Saturday I picked up another car thanks to a lead by Molotovman. 87 T2 with 50,800 miles. I'm not going to disclose what I paid, but it was too good to pass up. The car came with a brand new MS3 Pro ECU, 4 ID injectors, 725cc and 2000cc, Greddy FD intercooler kit, Coolingmist Varicool II meth kit, FFE trigger kit...it was too good to pass on.

So a few months ago this car was for sale on the forum, the Previous owner to the guy I picked it up from put a half bridge motor in it with stock everything else. Needless to say it didnt run, wouldnt idle. So this guy decides to build it up, got bored / frustrated and pushed it to the side.

I'm gonna do my best to restore to as close to factory as possible and sell it to someone looking for a nice stock car. It will be "my" first rebuild. The current bridgey motor has almost no miles on it so I'm hoping everything inside is reusable!

The car was a weird combo. No P/S, no spoiler, no AAS, no ABS.

Heres some pics!











gonna need a rear carpet...




I am looking for a good condition S4 ECU harness if you have one!! Please PM me!!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Still trying to get hold of an engine hoist. I forgot to put the wife's car in the garage before it snowed. oops!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Oh and I almost forgot..Came across the housings from my 6 port turbo teardown. They didnt look usable.. After a few hours of sanding they look better. They need a few more hours of work though. I think I'll keep em and throw together a low dollar engine to try and blow up on purpose.







Here they are before I touched them.

E358B18A-A37D-406E-A83A-E70BB31CEB22-106-00000000F4C98596.jpg?t=1354402535

I didnt get rid of all of the shiney finish, but with some fresh sandpaper and maybe something a bit more coarse I think they be decent. Before they were touched the face did not feel smooth...as of now they are smooth except for the deeper grooves down the center of the housing.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Not exactly ideal conditions...but its out. The real fun part was carrying this downstairs to the basement.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I'm scratching my head over this. The engine is in GREAT shape with good quality parts inside. Everything looked well done and came apart with zero issues. There were very very very little miles put on this engine. This was a S4 T2 engine...solid atkins corner seals, atkins apex seals, resurfaced rotor housings, Irons were bridgeported on a mill....N318 flywheel, but someone decided to use S5 rotors?! The only thing I can think of is the motor was assembled and flywheel was put on later by the owner???

eage8

iTrader: (9)

What front counter weight does it have on it?

are you sure their S5 rotors? There are no pics

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

More info on the Raptor please.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Eage8 - I didnt check the front counter weight. I am 100% sure they are S5 rotors. The pockets are machined, not cast finish. I found a link on Mazdatrix to check the displacement of the pocket, that way I can find out if they are NA or turbo. I'll post a pic tonight if I get time to do some measuring. How do I measure the front CW?

LOF - Raptor is a 2012 I believe. Base model without the nav, 50kish miles. Not my truck, dad's It is an absolute monster and kind of a chore to drive due to being something like 9 inches wider than a standard F-150. Not difficult to keep in the lane, but you always gotta be paying attention and checking the line in the passenger mirror. It's got the 6.2 L V8 and got something like 13.5 MPG towing the car home.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

Let me google that for you

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...inside-496649/
also, before you reuse the atkins stuff... you should read fidelity101's build thread.... he's not a big fan.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-build-925525/

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Looks like the GXL is toast...Last night on our way to a Flyers game I redlined it getting onto the highway and about 30 seconds later the add coolant buzzer came on. It went away after about 5 seconds and then came back on. I pulled over to look things over, no obvious leaks in the engine bay. Coolant reservoir was full and I didnt remember it ever being that full. To be safe, we got off at the next exit and turned around to head home. I gawked at the coolant gauge trying to see if it was moving up, however it did not seem to go up even though the add coolant buzzer was on. This seemed fine to me as maybe it was just a tiny air pocket. It wasnt until we got off the highway that the needle seemed to have budged upwards, at that time I turned the engine off to try and stop building up heat. We sat at the 2/3 lights with the engine off. I coasted it through a neighborhood until we hit ours and thats when the gauge had obviously gone up, but not gone up super high, no where near the top of the range. I had someone tell me that sometimes the rad cap neck warps overtime causing a pinhole air leak to where the coolant will expand and push into the overflow, but allows air back in instead of sucking the coolant back in. This is best case scenario...Worst case and my fear is that its a coolant seal.

xtremeskier97

Wow....awesome thread! Sucks about the last post. Sorry to hear about that!

You sure do find your fair share of 7s up there!

What did you ever do with that maroon dash cover that was in one of the cars? Any information on that? Brand, etc? I'd like to see about getting one of those in that same color.

Thanks! Subscribed!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

It's alright. This is probably the cheapest and most favorable seal failure next to say an oil control ring I guess? haha.

It's kind of funny..the more I dig in the better deals I find or people tell me about.

The dash cover ended up going to landon303. I think they sell them on rockauto? When I was on there it looked similar to the one they offered.

Customisbetter

Replace your radioator caps with new ones for $10. especially the one that controls the bypass to the expansion tank.

I thought I lost a coolant seal before I did that and the motor has run cool ever since

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

It definitely blew a coolant seal. After shutting down and turning it back over i get nice big clouds of white smoke. Also, when it was cold I started it up with the t-stat neck rad cap off and I had smoke coming out.

I drained the coolant, ran it for a minute, then parked it till I can get around to rebuilding it.