hsilive

Ok everyone sorry ive been gone so long! Im actually still at work. So sorry if my post is kinda crappy! Here is whats happened this far figured out the front end play and assembled everything filled up fluids. Also bought a new optima battery and set my cas timing as well and timed it using the starter and a test light! Here is a background of how everything is set up.

I have the front of the car elevated about 1 1/2 feet. Was hoping it would start like this so any leaks could be fixed easily. Bad idea?

Tried to start it and immediately had a few backfires just one pop then some turning and another. From what i understand this is normal true?

Would not start so i pulled plugs and they were very gassy. I took all plugs out took the fuel pump fuse out and cranked it on and off for a few minutes. Sounds like good compression! Reinstalled plugs and fuse tried to start. No avail it stopped the backfires and just keeps flooding! I tried deflooding a few times and it seems to want to start but never fully fires!

Here are some other details if they may help
The car has a
haltek ex6
A street port
Bigger walbro fuel pump
I think 1800 cc primary injectors 800 cc secondary
Lucky 7 pully kit that i want to replace
Omp delete im very cautious with my premix and only use idumitsu
new goopy apex all cooling rings with rotory evos seal savers new front rear seals
Knight sport turbo hybrid
i used some cheap 15-40 oil since i will be changing it after 50 miles
Using crappy ridium plugs that were in it before rebuild those will be changing at first oil change not sure where they are supposed to be gaped so i didnt change them

So if anyone can help or even simply has a idea post it and ill let you know how it turns out!

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I really hope it's not 1800cc primaries with 800cc secondaries. If that's the case, we've found the reason for the flooding

If not, then do the whole de-flood thing. Unplug the CAS and inject some oil in the intake. I like to use one of the vacuum ports on the passenger's side, and shoot some engine oil in it through a vacuum hose. I usually use a gear lube bottle, since it has the pointy nozzle that you can attach a vacuum hose to. Crank it over a few times, reconnect the CAS, fire in the hole.

hsilive

hmm no luck on the acyual size of the injectors should have check while they were out !
how much oil and where exactly! my rats nest is delete !

anyone else have advice ? im sure everything was assembled correctly all seals and spings moving and in spec just crappy rotors and housings lol

come on guys give me enough things to try that i can justify a day of missed work !

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

The vacuum nipple on the passenger's side that goes to the manifold pressure sensor works great. Usually everyone recommends a tablespoon or 2. I don't know how to measure that in squeezes of a bottle, but just use a "best guess". I've put a LOT down there before and never hurt anything. Just don't pour half the bottle down and expect the engine to spin over. You CAN hydro lock a rotary. A couple squeezes should get compression up high enough to get you going.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would try picking up a set of BUR9EQ plugs and throw them in there to get it running. i'm betting the iridiums are probably fouled, even if they are showing spark.

hsilive

hmmm i put a little in my boost pressure hole just a ounce or two seemed to help but i just flooded it again

i also ordered the plugs you suggested ben damn nd doesnt have anything in stock they will be here in two days

hsilive

uhg i hate waiting for parts !!!!

so what else could i have done wrong one cant intall rotors incorrectly so long as the first one is set in place correctly so i dont think thats the issue

everything was to tourqe and everything is held together with woodruf keys
new sparks on the way
timing checked out
compression sounds good but i only have one compression tool and cant read it while its down there
would the front of the car being up on ramps cause a issue ?


im really sick of sitting in it listning to music and almost crying cuz the damn thing wont start !!!

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

More oil probably. Re-verify timing is correct, check to make sure you're actually getting spark, is the tachometer moving? If you have fuel getting in the engine, spark, and you hear compression and the engine's just flooded out, you probably need to try the deflood thing again, this time adding more oil.

hsilive

Yes tach does move but never all the way to 1k also i get smoke from pipes and im guessing my boost gauge port is ok to oil? Also how much is safe

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

If you feel like you've put too much in, you can always rotate the engine over with a large ratchet or breaker bar before starting it with the starter.

hsilive

Ben are those plugs gapable and if so what should i gap them at?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

no gap, they're preset with no way to adjust them. just install and turn the key.

hsilive

Got home too late to pick up plugs but i did try a little more oil and a thinner viscosity and it came alot closer to starting had two backfires and alot of smoke! Hopefully the plugs recommended will do the trick ill keep everyone updated and soon i may post conversation i had with someone!

hsilive

well she started if only for a few seconds then oil feed line shot all my oil out here been this i guess is a good place as any to post those picks

didnt have one of the turbo side its just a screw together fuel line style fitting

and yes guys rotory evo is the best vendor ive come accross ! he goes beyond the call to duty !!

hsilive

pics

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

lies, that guy is out to steal your hard earned money!

the line looks stock so i will send one out asap.

hsilive

okok i recieved and installed the line that was leaking thanks again been you have once again went above and beyond rotary evolution is a awesome vendor !!!

back to the car
leak has been fixed !!!!!!
messed with the timing alot !!!! for those of you that have the lucky 7 pully set its junk first off second with your cass out set the e shaft pully to the third white mark set your cas correctly and install ! this is the only spot i found that would let the car start easily . when i get the timing dead on ill be sure to inform you guys and send a few more pics to the post

here is a list of things i plan on doing my next day off

check timing

install some new crush washers (this might just wait until first oil change )

install a thermostat (i left it out for now waiting to order bonzia thermostat !)

check and tighten the tranny mounts !

hsilive

ok so the timing isnt going so great ben told me i need to disable the timing lock on the haltek ex6 this scares me i dont want to mess up the tune so if anyone has any ideas please post !!!

maybe i can just move my timing one tooth at a time until its correct ?
can i hurt anything doing it this way ?
ive put 14 miles on it when the timing as far as i can tell was almost correct it just had a little hessitation at about 4 k i tried adjusting timing according to the manual it only made things worse
im thinking about setting it to where it was and trying a tooth in each direction to get rid of that little prob at 4 k

other then this issue my temps have stabled out its running 160 to 180f with no thermostat
just ordered bonzai thermostat to help with warm ups

going to order a few items from my fave vendor rotary evolutions !!
start with some new crush rings as i still have a few minor leaks
a cog pully kit when i get the time to measure my shaft
a shortneck oil filler
maybe some heater items

thanks again you guys especially ben !

hsilive

ok need more help i have the serial cord and a laptop with corei7 and windows 7 cant get haltek 1.26 for my ex6 to run on here dos or windows anyone know the trick ?