Turbo Swap: Round 2
06-29-12, 01:48 PM
#1
Turbo Swap: Round 2
I figured now is as good a time as any to start a build thread for my car since its now going to be off the road a lot longer than I had hoped. Let me start with a little history. This is my first rotary powered car before this I had 2 Volkswagens a Jetta (2.slow manual with a few mods) which was my first car and a Passat (money pit 1.8t manual swapped 290whp). Of course I couldn't stand the whole euro vw scene, fwd sucks, and I always loved RX7s.
I bought the car about a year ago for $500 (what a steal
) with 132k on it after hunting for one for a few months on Craigslist. I saw the posting for this bad boy no more than 20 minutes after the owner posted it and was the first person to call about it. Only problem was it didn't run completely due to a stuck apex seal on the front rotor.
I paid the guy and towed the car home the following Saturday. When I got the car home later that morning I got started working on it right away pulled the exhaust manifold, ran some marvel mystery oil through it and managed to get compression back on all the faces of the front rotor by Sunday afternoon. Didn't really have to fix much else and drove it like that for a few weeks. Then, sadly my motor died from what I believe to be the apex seal that was originally stuck but I still haven't torn it apart to find out for sure though.
Luckily I had started saving for a Turbo II engine swap shortly after getting the car so it was about time to get started on that. I pushed it into my garage where i started tearing my old motor out piece by piece to get ready for the new engine that I'd be able to afford soon. Sorry for the whole novel onto the pics.
I bought the car about a year ago for $500 (what a steal
) with 132k on it after hunting for one for a few months on Craigslist. I saw the posting for this bad boy no more than 20 minutes after the owner posted it and was the first person to call about it. Only problem was it didn't run completely due to a stuck apex seal on the front rotor.I paid the guy and towed the car home the following Saturday. When I got the car home later that morning I got started working on it right away pulled the exhaust manifold, ran some marvel mystery oil through it and managed to get compression back on all the faces of the front rotor by Sunday afternoon. Didn't really have to fix much else and drove it like that for a few weeks. Then, sadly my motor died from what I believe to be the apex seal that was originally stuck but I still haven't torn it apart to find out for sure though.
Luckily I had started saving for a Turbo II engine swap shortly after getting the car so it was about time to get started on that. I pushed it into my garage where i started tearing my old motor out piece by piece to get ready for the new engine that I'd be able to afford soon. Sorry for the whole novel onto the pics.
Last edited by p0tat0s; 06-29-12 at 02:08 PM.
06-29-12, 02:07 PM
#2
When I pulled the old N/A motor I decided to add a lil color
Got some fancy billet aluminum mounts from Level Zero Motorsports. Gunna pick up a brake master cylinder brace, DTSS elim and cas cover from them when money allows.
Did a few interior bits and pieces to make it how i like it. Bike peg shift **** and plaid boot, ebrake handle and button, Alpine radio, harness bar and 6 pt harnesses (still have to mount antisub strap), picked up a decent pair of seats off GuiltySoul, MOMO Race steering wheel and hub, NRG thin quick release.
Got some fancy billet aluminum mounts from Level Zero Motorsports. Gunna pick up a brake master cylinder brace, DTSS elim and cas cover from them when money allows.
Did a few interior bits and pieces to make it how i like it. Bike peg shift **** and plaid boot, ebrake handle and button, Alpine radio, harness bar and 6 pt harnesses (still have to mount antisub strap), picked up a decent pair of seats off GuiltySoul, MOMO Race steering wheel and hub, NRG thin quick release.
06-29-12, 02:59 PM
#3
A few of the body while I had the turbo motor in before it blew up.
I had just gotten the engine mounted in this pic.
Currently I have the motor out again as something blew on it allowing a large amount of coolant into my engine blowing 2 apex seals. At the moment I believe the problem to be a blown o ring in one of the coolant passages on the lim but i won't know for sure til I get the rest of the block apart.
I had just gotten the engine mounted in this pic.
Currently I have the motor out again as something blew on it allowing a large amount of coolant into my engine blowing 2 apex seals. At the moment I believe the problem to be a blown o ring in one of the coolant passages on the lim but i won't know for sure til I get the rest of the block apart.
07-12-12, 02:20 PM
#6
yo so what is the difference (pros and cons) of having mounts that are solid compared to ones that are just aftermarket ones (drop/mazdaspeed)....I see some people have the drop bushings and mounts and others go with solid aluminum...
Is there a reason you chose these:?
Is there a reason you chose these:?
08-29-12, 11:04 AM
#7
Haven't been on for a while time for an update. Still didn't get the engine apart because I've been hella busy with paintball tournaments the past couple months. But I did manage to get a few things done here and there when I've had some free time. This is how she's sitting for now until I have some money saved up to get some more stuff done.
I'm also in the process of pulling the whole interior to prep for a lot of work that's going to be done. The plan is for a full cage, Bride seats (most likely ViosIII since this thing will still be used on the streets sometimes), as much weight reduction as possible, and some aesthetics just because. I also plan on eliminating all the unnecessary electronics and wiring to shave off a little more weight. The current plan for the car is for some fun summer weekend driving as well as some track activities (autocross, maybe some drift, and time attack/circuit).
lpolo69 its quite a change going from fwd to rwd but this isn't the first rwd i've driven just the first i've owned. I've driven my buddy's 350z daily and his s14 240sx when it had an sr20 and then later when he swapped an ls1 after it was stolen.
broke a baller for one thing the aluminum are a bit cheaper i paid 50 as opposed to 90 for level zeros poly mounts. they are also stiffer and don't wear out like poly ones. but they also add a lot more vibration than a poly mount. i ended up choosing these because i needed new engine and trans mounts quick and didn't have enough cash to get the poly mounts for both.
I'm also in the process of pulling the whole interior to prep for a lot of work that's going to be done. The plan is for a full cage, Bride seats (most likely ViosIII since this thing will still be used on the streets sometimes), as much weight reduction as possible, and some aesthetics just because. I also plan on eliminating all the unnecessary electronics and wiring to shave off a little more weight. The current plan for the car is for some fun summer weekend driving as well as some track activities (autocross, maybe some drift, and time attack/circuit).
lpolo69 its quite a change going from fwd to rwd but this isn't the first rwd i've driven just the first i've owned. I've driven my buddy's 350z daily and his s14 240sx when it had an sr20 and then later when he swapped an ls1 after it was stolen.
broke a baller for one thing the aluminum are a bit cheaper i paid 50 as opposed to 90 for level zeros poly mounts. they are also stiffer and don't wear out like poly ones. but they also add a lot more vibration than a poly mount. i ended up choosing these because i needed new engine and trans mounts quick and didn't have enough cash to get the poly mounts for both.
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08-30-12, 09:09 AM
#9
They're such nice seats thats a rough price tag if you get them straight from Japan. I was planning on going through a legit US distributor like passwordjdm or vivid racing that way it only ends up being a few hundred for shipping. Unless I end up getting a body kit or something else huge from rhdjapan. I'm feelin the blue ones since it's my favorite color and I'm going for a black and blue color scheme.
08-30-12, 10:59 AM
#10
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
If you're spending money on a seat, make sure it was FIA approved at one point if you plan to do any serious events. Also, get a roll bar. Running a fixed back seat and a harness without a roll bar is a bad idea. If you flip your car you'll be stuck straight up when the roof collapses.
08-30-12, 01:02 PM
#12
I'm in the process of prepping for my roll bar install I will most likely be going with a Cusco one and I made sure the Vios III was FIA approved. That was my main focus when picking a seat well that and being comfortable as well as being nice. Are there any other roll cages that are FIA approved aside from the Cusco?
I'm trying to take a trip to Japan sometime in the next couple years after I finish up the Japanese classes I'm taking in college. And I definitely plan on bringing back some nice goodies for my car.
I'm trying to take a trip to Japan sometime in the next couple years after I finish up the Japanese classes I'm taking in college. And I definitely plan on bringing back some nice goodies for my car.
09-04-12, 10:52 AM
#13
Just picked up a set of streetported irons and rotor housings over the weekend for 500 bucks. I also managed to finally find a 2 1/8th inch socket at sears to get my flywheels off both my blown engines. Only had one extremely minor setback over the weekend involving a blow torch and my new pilot bearing and seal. I ended up melting them while heating up the flywheel nut so I would be able to impact it off.
Couple pics of the housings and irons.
Couple pics of the housings and irons.
09-05-12, 08:14 AM
#14
Started getting my blown turbo block really apart and this is what I found in the rear.
Appears to be in surprisingly good shape. I managed to figure out why this rotor ended up making absolutely no compression. All the seals on it were completely stuck and the springs were pretty flat compared to new.
I plan on getting the rest of the block apart tonight. I also noticed that all the housing surfaces in the rear were in pretty good shape. Hopefully the same can be said for the front.
Appears to be in surprisingly good shape. I managed to figure out why this rotor ended up making absolutely no compression. All the seals on it were completely stuck and the springs were pretty flat compared to new.
I plan on getting the rest of the block apart tonight. I also noticed that all the housing surfaces in the rear were in pretty good shape. Hopefully the same can be said for the front.
09-06-12, 11:43 AM
#15
Damn...trip to Japan. I went there once back in 2008...loved it there.
But if you plan on bringing stuff back remember it will still probably cost a lot of money ahah. The fiberglass vios are like $900 regardless where you go from what I've seen and the carbon are like $1800... I just want the carbon fiber ones but I may actually settle for the fiber glass ones...if you get them let me know what you think and how they feel.
But if you plan on bringing stuff back remember it will still probably cost a lot of money ahah. The fiberglass vios are like $900 regardless where you go from what I've seen and the carbon are like $1800... I just want the carbon fiber ones but I may actually settle for the fiber glass ones...if you get them let me know what you think and how they feel.
09-06-12, 03:10 PM
#16
I'm very prepared to spend a lot of money bringing parts back and what not but I also have wanted to go there for years. At least this way I get a nice trip out of the several thousand it would cost.
I planned on only getting the fiberglass ones anyway since money doesn't grow on trees. I found that the closest legit distributor to me is Touge Factory out in Chicago and shipping is a little over $100 per seat so I'd end up spending $2000 flat almost for both. I have sat in other Bride seats before (I think it was the Gias) and it was absolutely 100x more comfortable than the Recaros I had in my Passat and those were some pretty comfortable seats.
Also I came to find out that the front rotor was in great shape as well. Not only that but all my housings and irons showed almost no signs of wear aside from a little carbon and some oil. Of course I don't plan on reusing any of my seals since most of them were stuck and ended up breaking during removal. And I also had a
moment when I was taking the apex seals out and thought they were broken when they came out in 3 pcs instead of 2. I then realized they were the original seals.
I planned on only getting the fiberglass ones anyway since money doesn't grow on trees. I found that the closest legit distributor to me is Touge Factory out in Chicago and shipping is a little over $100 per seat so I'd end up spending $2000 flat almost for both. I have sat in other Bride seats before (I think it was the Gias) and it was absolutely 100x more comfortable than the Recaros I had in my Passat and those were some pretty comfortable seats.
Also I came to find out that the front rotor was in great shape as well. Not only that but all my housings and irons showed almost no signs of wear aside from a little carbon and some oil. Of course I don't plan on reusing any of my seals since most of them were stuck and ended up breaking during removal. And I also had a
moment when I was taking the apex seals out and thought they were broken when they came out in 3 pcs instead of 2. I then realized they were the original seals.
10-04-12, 02:33 PM
#17
Well progress has been a bit slow the past few weeks. I managed to get the whole interior out and cut out the metal from the doors since my cage has door bars. Collected some parts I need for the rebuild. Still need to get the sound deadening off the floor but I have no clue where to get dry ice for that. Also been working on stripping my wire harness off all the crap thats not going back in the car. Also decided to run a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 instead of an Apexi Power FC.
10-04-12, 11:31 PM
#18
Originally Posted by p0tat0s
Well progress has been a bit slow the past few weeks. I managed to get the whole interior out and cut out the metal from the doors since my cage has door bars. Collected some parts I need for the rebuild. Still need to get the sound deadening off the floor but I have no clue where to get dry ice for that. Also been working on stripping my wire harness off all the crap thats not going back in the car. Also decided to run a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 instead of an Apexi Power FC.
10-05-12, 08:37 AM
#19
I tried prying some of it off with a screwdriver which didn't work nearly as good as i had hoped it would. I think I'm going to try the dry ice method as long its not absurdly expensive since I found a place about 15 min away from me that sells it. Saw another thread where someone got 60 lbs and had a ton left over. I figure about 40 lbs should still be more than enough to get the job done. Gunna email that place for a price quote and hopefully it won't be too expensive.
Sorry for not having any pics I'll get some next time I'm working on it.
Sorry for not having any pics I'll get some next time I'm working on it.
10-08-12, 03:22 PM
#21
Decided to start from scratch on my wiring harness. Instead of going through all the trouble of going through the stock wiring harnesses and stripping/rewiring them I will be ordering a universal harness kit. This will most likely save me a ton of time and **** broken out of frustration. I swear I get a lot of good ideas just from looking around on jegs summit and other parts sites.
10-08-12, 06:51 PM
#23
Originally Posted by K-Tune
Why is there a bandanna around your steering column?
Handkerchief code - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ?
Handkerchief code - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ?
10-26-12, 08:11 AM
#25
Well its time for the long awaited rebuild as soon as my parts come in next week. I was able to sell one of my high end paintball guns yesterday which put enough money in my paypal for me to order the rest of my rebuild parts. Of course there are still quite a few things i will need to get the car up and running again but at least ill be able to get my motor together.
Also while i was pulling my wiring harness and stripping the tar off my floor i found this sensor. Im not quite sure what it does its located under the passenger seat and is held to the floor by 2 screws. Any chance this is some type of ambient air temp sensor?
Also while i was pulling my wiring harness and stripping the tar off my floor i found this sensor. Im not quite sure what it does its located under the passenger seat and is held to the floor by 2 screws. Any chance this is some type of ambient air temp sensor?