Furb: RX-7 FC

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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 01:33 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by RE DAVE
AWSOME Built 7
What material did you use for the duct between oil cooler and rad.
Do you have a fan between the oil cooler and rad.
Nice airbox, do you have any more pics.
I have made an aluminium undertray between fmic and rad. The oilcooler is mounted just 2inches in front of the rad, positioned in the center. I have filled the gap with bi-plex (pvc based material with Air channels. Light and strong) which we have at work, but simple cardboard would do the trck

Because the oil cooler is so close to the rad, the black magic e-fan does all the work properly!

Ill check for some more pics
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 02:03 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Furb
I have made an aluminium undertray between fmic and rad. The oilcooler is mounted just 2inches in front of the rad, positioned in the center. I have filled the gap with bi-plex (pvc based material with Air channels. Light and strong) which we have at work, but simple cardboard would do the trck

Because the oil cooler is so close to the rad, the black magic e-fan does all the work properly!

Ill check for some more pics
Want to make an undertray for awhile (OEM one bit worn out)
What thickness aluminiumn did you use.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 02:46 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by RE DAVE
Want to make an undertray for awhile (OEM one bit worn out)
What thickness aluminiumn did you use.
I think it was 1mm.

Do you have stock oilcooler? Because then you have to make the same vents as in the stock undertray, otherwise temps will go up!
Tried this in the first place with stock cooler in stock position With a closed undertray and oil was 15 degrees higher
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 03:14 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Furb
I think it was 1mm.

Do you have stock oilcooler? Because then you have to make the same vents as in the stock undertray, otherwise temps will go up!
Tried this in the first place with stock cooler in stock position With a closed undertray and oil was 15 degrees higher
Wait what seriously? Damn why is that? I've been thinking about cutting out the back of my tray, the part after where the radiator meets the tray, in order to provide a place for air to escape, thus more efficiently sucking air through the radiator, but does it matter where the vents are? I thought the most efficient way was to ram air through both the stock oil cooler and radiator?

btw I used .25 gauge sheet metal I believe.



Oh and nice car. Serves as an inspiration to what I'm trying to achieve
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 03:51 AM
  #55  
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It all has to do with airflow, low and high pressure areas. Mazda has tested this and made the undertray like that for a reason...

Dont know how it works exactly, i just know that i tried on stock setup with a closed undertray and temps went up.
I think it could work if you relocate the Stock oilcooler, perhaps by trail and error, to find the right flow passage.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #56  
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blown manifold gasket
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From: Western Australia
Originally Posted by Furb
I think it was 1mm.

Do you have stock oilcooler? Because then you have to make the same vents as in the stock undertray, otherwise temps will go up!
Tried this in the first place with stock cooler in stock position With a closed undertray and oil was 15 degrees higher
yeah have stock cooler, thinking about upgrading oil cooler
Cheers for the info
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 09:35 PM
  #57  
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wow that hing is so clean, nice car man. keep it up
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 11:33 PM
  #58  
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Good looking FC man!
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 02:26 AM
  #59  
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wow that is a clean *** FC dude. keep up the good work.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:17 AM
  #60  
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thnx for the support guys!

started on my suspension yesterday, the front arms are almost finished!
just need to put on 1 last bushing and get the arms a bit cleaned up.
then its time to take off the rear subframe
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 06:59 AM
  #61  
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I love this car and quality care that's gone into it. Well done sir!!
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 08:59 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Furb
It all has to do with airflow, low and high pressure areas. Mazda has tested this and made the undertray like that for a reason...

Dont know how it works exactly, i just know that i tried on stock setup with a closed undertray and temps went up.
I think it could work if you relocate the Stock oilcooler, perhaps by trail and error, to find the right flow passage.
I made a custom undertray out of .25 alum. It begins at the back of the front mount intercooler and ends at the front of the Koyo. The oil cooler is kept in the factory location. I sealed it all with soft 1/4'' weather stripping. I run the CorkSport shroud with the factory clutch-fan. That factory fan with proper shroud to blade clearance does some major heat/air scavanging.

My oil temps went down about 10*F while cruising (165*F constant while cruising) and my air temps dropped 10-15* too. NO TRACK temps tested yet since I am in break in still.

Pics below...not the prettiest thing but it is functional. I had NO factory ducting before.
Attached Thumbnails Furb: RX-7 FC-duct.jpg   Furb: RX-7 FC-0920091931%5B1%5D.jpg   Furb: RX-7 FC-duct-2.jpg   Furb: RX-7 FC-downsized_0920091932%5B1%5D.jpg  
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:53 PM
  #63  
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Absolutely perfect. I love your car.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #64  
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how did you mod the 350z hood dampers? im interested in this conversion. i saw a video on youtube.com from EVO-R.net showing hood dampers on an FC3S. are they using their 350z dampers you think? they sell them for the 350z on the website but not for the FC, but theres a video of it.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 02:58 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Satsuki_FCsanS
how did you mod the 350z hood dampers? im interested in this conversion. i saw a video on youtube.com from EVO-R.net showing hood dampers on an FC3S. are they using their 350z dampers you think? they sell them for the 350z on the website but not for the FC, but theres a video of it.
sorry for the late reply...
i modified the brackets that were supposed to bolt to the 350Z hood and mounted them onto the hood hinges.
i made an aluminium spacer to extend the dampers so it bolts right to the oem fender boltholes
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #66  
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My RX is ready to go back on the road and track! :mrgreen:

this is what happened the last couple of weeks...

taken out the entire rear supsension


found out that my diff was ruined, because there are 12 teeth missing in total


25hours later i had a replacement low-mileage FD3S torsen diff
mounted the diff in my FC housing, replaced the seals and filled her up with redline oil.



refurbed the subframe


SuperNow main camber control links



PDR solid subframe mounts and lower control arm bushings


OEM vs TC-Sportline camber control arm
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:13 PM
  #67  
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rear suspension reasembled, but due to the tight schedule to get the car running for the first trackday i decided not to paint/powdercoat everything

everything back underneath the car


did some cleaning and polishing under the hood


here they are, side by side, like father and son
`
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:26 PM
  #68  
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Awesome... looks great
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:27 PM
  #69  
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also updated my speclist (also put on the new turbo setup, which will be on in a couple of months...)

Engine:
Stock 13BT engine
BNR stage 4 turbocharger
RE-Furb oil catch can
RE-Furb engine damper (modified from Civic)
Banzai Racing urethane engine mounts

Cooling:
Koyo N-flo duel pass radiator
Flex-a-lite Black magic fan
Greddy 1.3bar pressure cap
RE-Furb radiator mounts
RE-Furb overflow reservoir
RE-Furb radiator panel
RE-Furb radiator ducting
Samco radiator hoses
JT-performance sensor adapter
Airconditioning removed

Oil:
Racing Beat thermal bypass pellet
Racing Beat high pressure oil regulator
Racing Beat baffle plate
Racing Beat rotor oil cap
Fluidyne oil cooler
RE-Furb oil cooler mounts
RE-Furb oil cooler ducting
JT-Performance sensor adapter
AN-10 oil cooler lines

Intake:
Apex’i air intake
RE-Furb cold air intake
RE-Furb airbox
AFM removed
JT-Performance FMIC
JT-Performance intercooler piping, fitted by RE-Furb
HKS SSQV blow off valve
Greddy compression tube for FD3S
FD3S throttle body, secondary throttle plates removed
FD3S upper intake manifold, portmatched to S5 lower manifold
All emissions blocked off or welded shut.

Fuel:
Walbro 255lp/h fuelpump, rewired with relay straight from battery
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
KG-Parts red anodized fuel rails
720cc primary injectors
1600cc secondary injectors
AN-6 steel braided fuel lines
Ignition:
Greddy RE-10 sparkplugs
Racing Beat leads
HKS Twin Power
Modified trailing coils with extra igniter for use with PowerFC

Exhaust:
Racing Beat REVII 3” exhaust
First damper replaced by de-cat
Exhaust modified by Jeroentje.nl

Clutch/Drivetrain:
ACT prolite 4,3kg flywheel
ACT flywheel counterweight
ACT street/strip clutch disc
ACT extreme pressure plate
Corksport steel braided clutch line
S4 gearbox modified with S5 rear housing
Banzai Racing urethane transmission mounts
FD3S Torsen type LSD

Steering:
JT-Performance steering wheel
JT-Performance adapter
JT-Performance quick-release hub
Power steering removed
Modified steering rack

Suspension:
Silkroad RM/A8 coilovers with front camber plates
Racing Beat swaybars
Racing Beat adjustable swaybar end links
Racing Beat DTSS eliminators
PDr solid front lower control arm bushings
PDR solid rear lower control arm bushings
PDR solid rear subframe mounts
SuperNow main camber control links
TC Sportline Camber control arm
RE-Furb front and rear strutbraces

Brakes:
K-Sport 330mm front brake kit
K-sport front brake pads
K-Sport front steel braided brake lines
RE-Furb brake ducting
Formell crossdrilled rear brake rotors
EBC Greenstuff rear brake pads
Corksport rear steel braided brake lines
ABS removed

Wheels:
Barracuda Velvet
18 x 8,5J offset 25 front
18 x 9,5J offset 25 rear
Rotor valve stem caps

Tires:
Hankook Ventus V12 EVO
225/40R18 front
255/35R18 rear

Exterior:
GP-Sports G-Four bodykit
Shine Auto vented hood
Border headlight intake cover
R-Magic mirrors
Aerocatch hood latches
RE-Furb hood dampers (modified from 350Z)
35% tinted windows

Interior:
Autometer dual A-pillar gauge pod
Autometer single A-pillar gauge pod
RE-Furb DIN triple gauge holder

Lights:
JT-Performance 323 clear headlight housings
Pilot HID 4300k bi-Xenon
D-Speed clear front cornering lights
Skoda dark side cornering lights
LED licenseplate ilumination

Powersupply:
FD3S 100A alternator
RE_Furb alternator relocation bracket
Optima redtop battery, relocated to rear hatch
300W 220V power converter

Engine management:
Apexi PowerFC with hand commander for ’99 FD3S
Knightsports 8bit to 16bit converter harness
Banzai Racing PowerFC adapter harness for FC3S
GM 3bar map sensor
FD3S intake temp sensor
FD3S throttle position sensor
Apexi AVCR boostcontroller
FC Datalogit for mapping

Electronics:
Racelogic traction control
Racelogic launch control
Stri X-line watertemp gauge
Stri X-line oiltemp gauge
Stri X-line oil pressure gauge
Stri X-line boost gauge
Stri X-line fuel pressure gauge
Vems Wideband & EGT controller

ICE:
Sony CD-F7750 headunit
Ipod connection
Polk audio 13cm speakers
Polk audio 16cm speakers
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #70  
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whered you get that alternator relocation? someone said pineapple racing but i couldnt find it
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #71  
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made it myself, like many other things
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:01 PM
  #72  
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very nice! if you made another id totally buy it. you can even put your name on it lol.
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:13 PM
  #73  
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well, maybe in the future i will replicate it if there are more people interested.
but at least for the next year i wont have the time for it..
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #74  
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haa well keep me posted!
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #75  
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amazing car too btw!
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