The ducting is insane!

Alle temps were even lower then expected.
On the track:
oil 85
Water 90
Intake 20-25 (ambient temp of 15-20 degrees)
Temps under the hood are at least 20degrees lower

I am going to put on an oil thermostat for one of the coolers, because i cant get it up to temp on the street
This will provide a steady 90 degrees.

Another idea i have is waterinjection to get even lower intake temps and eliminate knock, and run more boost

 

for the track thats great, heck for the street thats really good- do you still have ac condenser in the car?

 

No AC, i ditched that 4years ago

 

it's been quiet for some time now, because i had a year of big changes in my life which took up most of my time, but i got some good news: I'm back in the game!

this year I have bought an appartment, so now I'm finally living on my own


my brother designed this for me, which will be put up at my front door.
4mm stainless steel, cut with a waterjet


got a pair of rats living with me, awesome pets!


bought a new daily ('86 929 2.0 automatic)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBoWROEFrwE [/youtube]

and I've started to work on the RX-7 again!
after the turbo meltdown, i wasn't sure if the engine was ok, since i had to add coolant quite often. but i knew i had a small leak at a radiator hose.
not having time, money or motivation to carry on at the time, the car has stood still for about 6-7 months, and i thought i would give it a try and see if it still had some life left in it...
hooked up the battery, cranked it a couple of times to get oil pressure, fired up the EGI and it came to life right away, without any hickups or coughs.
the smoke coming out brought back memories and it smelled like everything except coolant, so i am sure that my waterseals are intact.

my new BNR stage 4 turbo is on the shelf, ready to be put on

I've already spent some time engineering some custom parts, like a custom rear brake setup. i wanted off the shelf RX-7 parts, that's why i chose the following.
295mm FD rear discs from Stoptech (256mm standard)
4piston FC front calipers
Stoptech brake pads
i engineered my own brackets to get everything aligned properly.
calipers are positioned on the rear instead of the front, this way i could use the braided brakelines i already had on the stock brakes.


ps..
NO this does NOT work on a stock FC, as the hubs need to be machined on a lathe to make the FD discs fit on the hub!!

using these calipers on the rear, means i don't have an e-brake.
for this i was thinking "out-of-the-box" again, because i didn't want an ugly aftermarket hydraulic e-brake in my car!
i built my own mechanical/hydraulic converter, which uses stock lever and cables and converts this to an hydraulic cilinder which activates the e-brake.
this is mounted near the diff, and will get a cover over it later on.
only need to make some brakelines and it is done.


sold my 350Z track wheels and my Barracuda's are for sale, I'm getting a nice new pair of shoes for the car, should be pretty sick when they are on...

 

Made some mounts for the thing to be mounted on the wall and gave it a nice polish

 

furb- the piece between your throttle body and the elbow- was that to compensate for the angle the fd elbows usually have that put them aiming at the oil fill when used on a FC?

 

Hi Rob,

The Greddy FD elbow has the bend inwards, but found that the RotaryWorks FD elbow didn't
That one goes in a straight angle, so i figured it would be better suited for my v-mount!

BUT.. that one also makes a slight bend upwards, so the inlet is actually higher then the UIM so that would mean i would hit my strutbrace.
I also needed a couple more inches to align it with the IC, so i made that piece to flatten out the elbow and extend it far enough so it would align with the outlet on the IC without hitting the strutbar

 

Ow and i modified the oil filler neck so that would not have been an issue anyways..

 

Now that this thread is somewhat ressurected..

I am taking the FC out of storage tomorrow to get some work done!
I want to finish the engine work first:
Replace my BNR stage4 turbo
Add oil thermostat to the 2nd oil cooler
Modify waterpump wiring
Fix a leaking heater hose

If i got more time, i'll take on the brake lines..
With the hydraulic handbrake i need to make some new ones

 

You haven't lost faith in the EWP? How will you wire it? Maybe wire in a warning light?

Riz.

 

No it was just overloaded..
i had it set on max cooling (75C), so i'll set it at 85 i think
It had a mini fuse, so i'll change that to a standard car fuse and use a higher gauge wire.
It has a feature for a warning light to be added, so i'm going to wire that in this time.

But i'm not going to do serious tracktime anymore, so the load on the pump will be a lot less so i dont have any worries for the future

 

furb- a audible over temp warning might be good for you.

re-doing my IC pipes now for the FD intake so that is why I was asking. Not modifying the oil fill, going with a single wiggins clamp and getting rid of the another coupler by welding them together

did your UIM interfere with the fuel rails or did you use a spacer between the IUM/LIM?

 

Yeahh i've been thinking of wiring it into the low-coolant buzzer/light.. that thing can be heard on the moon!

Ahh i see
No spacer, i portmatched the manifolds.
Dont know if the stock rails give any problems, i am using kg-parts rails and they have no clearance issues.

 

my uim would not slide down onto the lim without grinding the mounting point for the support that would be on a FD, i also have kg rails.


ill see if i can get some pics later

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...0#post10974710

 

Engine is back up and running, rear brake upgrade is finished.
Just some finishing up to do

And these were delivered yesterday..




Rota Grid Drift 18x9,5J offset20

 

Looking good furb! What are you planning on replacing your BNR stage 4 with?

 

never mind just saw you're replacing it with a new unit.

 

 

Yeah that was my best option..
Only needed a new rotating assembly, housings weren't damaged so Brian only sent the parts i needed. Cost me only €400
And now i don't need a remap..

 

 

Dude.. be carefull not to get your keyboard wet, could get shocking :P

 

Replacing your original wheels with Rota's, or are they track wheels?

Riz.

 

Black wheels will be sold, my old trackwheels are already sold so this will be my only set.

Will not be taking it on the track anymore so no need for track wheels

 

Respect bro very nice 7... evident by my straight forward and simple animations .... lol