My FC is an ongoing project so I thought I'd make a thread for it. Currently I am in the process of turbocharging the N/A engine. I've been reading up on doing this since I first bought the car, and just finally started putting everything together. Now, to the car... (Sorry a lot of pics are from my cell)


It's an 87' base model, that I picked up sometime last year.
Its current modlist:
-S5 Tailights
-A/C Delete
-CC Delete
-Enkei 92 rims on 205/60/r15
-Tanabe Springs
-AFC Neo
-Honda prelude mudflaps :-)

I started buying parts for the turbo conversion I think sometime in feburary.The parts stacked up pretty quickly, here's the table in my room with MOST of the parts on it just a week or 2 ago.


Now to the build, here's how the engine bay sat on Tuesday morning. (other than the intake duct that I took off before I thought I should take a picture)

And stripped down a few hours later.

And all the **** that was taken off.

Now, my plan was to bolt most of the turbo parts to the N/A engine and run the T2 ECU. In order to do this, the t2 lower intake manifold had to be ported to fit the block (thanks aaroncake for posting how to do this)

Cavities JB welded.

Ready for the porting.

Apparently I took no pictures of the finished product... I don't think things over sometimes. Anyway, both intake manifolds were painted flat black. Wanted to see how they looked, so I put them together.

The throttle body I picked up already had the TB mod done by the previous owner, so that took 1 more step out of the equation.

 

Here's a picture of the block before I started bolting the turbo parts on.

Turbo an manifold bolted on.

Downpipe bolted onto turbo. I ended up going with a corksport 2.5in downpipe. I'm happy with the quality other that the gasket included not fitting.

Downpipe from under the car, it's pretty big.

Almost bigger than the damn turbo...


Here's a pic of most of the turbo parts bolted on. I ended up having to take it all back off because the midsection of the turbo was crooked and I couldn't get the oil feed/ water return lines on. Pain in the ***.


A little break from the engine bay, I took some time to install my new walbro fuel pump. Strange, the diameter of the fuel pump is actually smaller than that of stock... And somehow the 8 screws to access the fuel pump came off effortlessly.

My entire fuel system upgrade consist of a walbro 255lph fuel pump and four s4 t2 550cc injectors.

I overlooked that the N/A EGR valve was located ontop of the block until I removed all of the emissions stuff, so I have to wait a few days to get the block off plate for it in the mail. In the meantime I decided to do a little bit of the intercooler plumbing. I got the passenger side done today. I'm using a universal piping kit from ebay (needs modified ofc) and a godspeed type M front mount intercooler. I've been told the godspeed isn't a very good intercooler, but it was just the size I was looking for, and figured it was better than a generic.

Passenger side piping.


I thought the passenger side was going to be harder to plumb because I didn't see anywhere to route the piping, but I was wrong. The drivers side is a mess, I ended up just enlarging a 2in hole mazda put there for headlight wires on the passenger side. After some tinkering, fits pretty good.

Took this picture as I was heading inside, thought the helicopter view looked nice.


I apologize for all the cell pics, my mom's camera is dead and I have no idea how to charge it lol. More updates after work tomorrow, hopefully.

Forgot to include a list of parts that I'm using for the build.

-S4 Turbocharger and wastegate
-S4 Turbo Manifold
-Corksport Downpipe
-HKS SSQV Blow off valve
-S4 T2 LIM
-S4 T2 UIM
-S4 T2 Throttle Body
-S4 T2 Throttle cable
-Godspeed front mount intercooler
-S4 T2 550cc injectors
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Stock S4 T2 ECU
-S4 T2 AFM
-S4 T2 pressure Sensor
-S4 T2 Knock sensor
-S4 T2 fuel rails
-Air raid cone filter
-Ebay fmic piping
-Greddy turbo timer and harness
-All new gaskets for everything
-Stock s4 T2 oil/water lines modified to work on N/A
-Racing beat oil filter pedestal

That's all I can think of right now.

 

Do you have the turbo and intake manifolds installed? I could have sworn Aaroncake had to make a spacer to fit them both.

 

you have to use a spacer when using the na intakes. props for the 6 port turbo! ill be doing mine this summer

 

Looking good.. I hope you post some vids & your thoughts when you're finished.

Did you port the wastegate on the turbo? Might not be a bad idea.

Good luck!

 

I see, I see. I could have sworn Aaroncake used TII manifolds. Buttt I was wrong haha

 

damn ive been wanting to do this conversion for so LONG!!!!!! i might just do this now that i have a good idea on what im up against on converting it to turbo...

keep up the good work! what was the total cost of the build so far???

 

Looks good, you're on the right track. Love the wheels, too bad though they are the 4 lug...

How are you running the turbo oil and water lines with the NA front cover and water pump?

 

water lines can be done with the coolant nipples on the rear of the waterpump housing and rear iron.
Oil drain will have to be custom to the pan or na front cover.
I opted againts both of those options after speaking to Johnathon at Goopy performance. He told me of airation issues when modding the pan for turbo drainage.. I know Aaron Cake had no issues but coming from Johnathon I take his advice very highly..

 

Looks good

 

E92's are nasty and they need to make them five lug for me!

Awesome job man.

 

I always enjoyed the 6 port turbo's I have built.. Lots of fun. BUT... Start saving parts up for a rebuild. It's going to happen much sooner then later.

JUst remember, dont try to boost it too far.. 6lbs-8lbs MAX!!!

 

I didn't take the time to port the wastegate yet, but removing the turbo isn't too hard, if I have issues with the boost creeping up, I'll be sure to get right too it.

I was keeping track of the cost, but after a while I just stopped. I don't regret going this route, but I think it would have been cheaper now that I look at it to just buy a t2 swap.

Oil feed is getting leached off of where the oil filter meets the block. I bought an oil filter pedestal from racing beat which I will be running the oil feed line and an aftermarket temperature gauge. Oil return will go strait to the oil pan. Water lines will leach off of the lines that used to be attached to the throttle body. As of right now I'm just making temporary lines out of the old ones, once I blow the engine, rebuild, and have a bigger turbo, I will use proper lines.

I'm more worried about my drivetrain I think. I don't think the N/A transmission is going to hold up too well. Hopefully I can find a T2 trans and rear end before that happens.

 

The NA trans should hold up as long as you aren't launching the car.

 

awesome work so far bro . my 6p-t will hopefully be done with in the next 2-3 weeks, sending my ecu of for rtek . been building my 7 up over the last 3 yrs. (i miss my car ) , im running a t4 though with a 40mm hks wastegate set at 5psi for now

 

Sounds badass, I can't imagine being without my car for 3 years, its been down for 3 or 4 days and I miss it.

Small update:
Block off plates for EGR and OMP came in the mail today. Didn't get a chance to put them on because I worked all day...

Took some pics with a camera, this is how it sits from yesterday.

 

Awesome!!! Keep up the good work!

 

Got home from work and started working on the drivers side intake piping. I'm not sure how this is going to work out as the 2.5in piping is too large to slip past the power steering pump. On top of that, the blow off valve still has to be installed. Will installing the bov on the turbo side rather than the TB side make a difference in functionality?

Also I want to run a BAC on my car once I have it running, but I only have the BAC from the N/A intake manifold. Will this work with a T2 ecu/UIM? I think the BAC I have now is "N326"

 

Your trans and rear end will be fine.. I have run several non turbo transmissions in plenty of turbocharged cars with no issue.

 

Nice.

 

That paper exhaust manifold gasket isn't going to last long :[

 

Yes it will. I'll look for a picture of mine. Crack the PS lines loose and move them a little. I even have AC still.

Here you go.



I don't personally believe it does. Some say closer to the TB is better, but in my opinion, it really doesn't matter. Stand by for some flame spray (it's one of those things people get pissed about for some reason)

The TII BAC has the idle adjust on it. The NA idle adjust screw is on the throttle body. Otherwise, a BAC is just a solenoid, and it's non-polarized so it should work with the TII ecu just fine.


Did you disable the twin scroll? With a high compression engine you'll probably not need twin scroll, although instant boost would be pretty awesome.

 

^^ thanks a lot for that post AGreen, good info

One more thing though. If the turbo idle adjustment is on the BAC and the N/A adjustment is on the TB, is there any way to adjust the idle using a manifold/TB and no BAC? Just a thought, I'll probably just pick up a T2 BAC.

Yea, the twin scroll is disabled. I wanted to simplify the system as much as possible as this is my first time turboing a car.

 

with proper engine managment and fuel system to match, longevity of the engine shouldn't be a problem if he started with a healthy engine.

on a side note, n/a diffs break pretty easily

 

There is a throttle body stop screw on the TII, but it'll make your idle all choppy.

Best option.