F1ashpoinT's 87 N/A->T Project
05-24-11, 01:26 PM
#26
Little update. I'm not really sure how I overlooked this before, but I never picked up a TB intake elbow that will work with the FMIC piping. So I will be making a temporary one to last me until I can find one online. That's holding me up a little bit. As for the intercooler piping, it is mostly done. This will probably need some tweaking here and there but for now it works. I ended up going over the PS pump, and somehow the hood doesn't make contact. Also I was able to find a spot for the BOV where the little fuse box used to be. Sorry crappy pics because I didn't want to get the camera all oily.
And a full view on the way in.
And a full view on the way in.
Last edited by F1ashpoinT; 05-24-11 at 01:43 PM.
05-25-11, 12:53 PM
#28
Just threw the bumper back on and connected the oil feed line. All I have left to do is:
-fabricate a turbo inlet duct
-fabricate an intake elbow
-hook up oil return line
-torque down downpipe bolts
-hook up vacuum lines
-switch out pressure sensor
-plug in turbo ecu
-clamp BOV down
-remove/block off OMP (for premix)
I think that's pretty much it. I should hopefully have it ready for a test run tonight. All depending on if I can make some sort of intake elbow. I'm no welder :-/
-fabricate a turbo inlet duct
-fabricate an intake elbow
-hook up oil return line
-torque down downpipe bolts
-hook up vacuum lines
-switch out pressure sensor
-plug in turbo ecu
-clamp BOV down
-remove/block off OMP (for premix)
I think that's pretty much it. I should hopefully have it ready for a test run tonight. All depending on if I can make some sort of intake elbow. I'm no welder :-/
05-26-11, 11:17 AM
#32
So close to being done, I can't wait. It should be running tonight for sure. All I have left to do is put bolts in the OMP injector holes, block off the OMP, find my pressure sensor (lol), hook up the oil return, and finish fabricating a intake elbow. I'll post some pics of the current engine bay and of a few misc things in a little.
05-26-11, 06:57 PM
#33
You're going to fall down the same road I did. I swapped in a turboII drivetrain into my convertible and left it stock for a little while. Got tired of that really quick and ordered a megasquirt ecu, swapped on a hybrid S5 turbo + manifold, added a 3" exhaust, and chopped up the front end to make it a v-mount. I can never be done with it.
05-30-11, 07:40 PM
#34
You're going to fall down the same road I did. I swapped in a turboII drivetrain into my convertible and left it stock for a little while. Got tired of that really quick and ordered a megasquirt ecu, swapped on a hybrid S5 turbo + manifold, added a 3" exhaust, and chopped up the front end to make it a v-mount. I can never be done with it.
Everything is now installed on the car, having a little trouble getting it to run. Here's a pic of the *finished* engine bay.
The car right now is starting, but it won't run. Sometimes I can get it to run for about 10 seconds, but it won't stay running. Manipulating the throttle does nothing, which leads me to believe it isn't a vacuum leak. I don't think it's the AFM because the car does not even try to start when it isn't plugged in. One weird thing though, is the key is turned onto run and you open the door on the AFM, the fuel pump kicks on and the fuel pressure shoots to around 95psi. If you then let off fuel pressure stays steady at 35ish psi. Is this normal? I'm having a real hard time getting the car roadworthy again.
05-31-11, 11:29 AM
#35
The AFM has a switch inside when it comes off its shut position, it'll kick on the fuel pump. There should be some residual pressure in the system when the pump is turned off. 95 psi sounds ridiculously high. Are you sure your fuel lines aren't hooked up to the wrong spots?
05-31-11, 12:54 PM
#36
The AFM has a switch inside when it comes off its shut position, it'll kick on the fuel pump. There should be some residual pressure in the system when the pump is turned off. 95 psi sounds ridiculously high. Are you sure your fuel lines aren't hooked up to the wrong spots?
On another note, I started wiring up my boost gauge and oil temp gauge today. I'll get some pics in later. I have to find another place to route my wideband to and rewire it.
I'm thinking about picking up (or just making) a vacuum manifold to simplify things in the engine bay. Any drawback from drawing all vacuum from a single source? The only lines going to be hooked up is the pressure sensor, boost gauge, BOV, and FPR.
Last edited by F1ashpoinT; 05-31-11 at 12:57 PM.
05-31-11, 05:59 PM
#38
Try this:
Key on, engine off. Jumper the yellow connector by the AFM. That'll kick on the fuel pump. If you can't find it, stick something in the AFM to keep it open to turn the pump on. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose to the FPR, and attach a mity-vac. Watch fuel pressure drop as vacuum is applied. If you don't have a mity-vac, then do it with the engine running, and watch fuel pressure as you remove the vacuum hose (remember to cap the end of the vacuum hose with your finger when you pull it off. If the pressure stays steady, then the FPR is bad. If it goes higher without vacuum, then there's probably a blockage in the return somewhere.
Key on, engine off. Jumper the yellow connector by the AFM. That'll kick on the fuel pump. If you can't find it, stick something in the AFM to keep it open to turn the pump on. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose to the FPR, and attach a mity-vac. Watch fuel pressure drop as vacuum is applied. If you don't have a mity-vac, then do it with the engine running, and watch fuel pressure as you remove the vacuum hose (remember to cap the end of the vacuum hose with your finger when you pull it off. If the pressure stays steady, then the FPR is bad. If it goes higher without vacuum, then there's probably a blockage in the return somewhere.
06-03-11, 10:23 AM
#41
Try this:
Key on, engine off. Jumper the yellow connector by the AFM. That'll kick on the fuel pump. If you can't find it, stick something in the AFM to keep it open to turn the pump on. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose to the FPR, and attach a mity-vac. Watch fuel pressure drop as vacuum is applied. If you don't have a mity-vac, then do it with the engine running, and watch fuel pressure as you remove the vacuum hose (remember to cap the end of the vacuum hose with your finger when you pull it off. If the pressure stays steady, then the FPR is bad. If it goes higher without vacuum, then there's probably a blockage in the return somewhere.
Key on, engine off. Jumper the yellow connector by the AFM. That'll kick on the fuel pump. If you can't find it, stick something in the AFM to keep it open to turn the pump on. Disconnect the vacuum supply hose to the FPR, and attach a mity-vac. Watch fuel pressure drop as vacuum is applied. If you don't have a mity-vac, then do it with the engine running, and watch fuel pressure as you remove the vacuum hose (remember to cap the end of the vacuum hose with your finger when you pull it off. If the pressure stays steady, then the FPR is bad. If it goes higher without vacuum, then there's probably a blockage in the return somewhere.
It's smoking quite a bit from the turbo area, I think it's exhaust leaking because it isn't building boost and the smoke smells like exhaust. I keep going in and trying to re-tighten bolts its getting pretty tedious.
Cooling the car so I can work on it, lol
Also for some reason the radiator cap next to the alternator decided it was a good time to start leaking so I had to take it off at the flange and replace the gasket/oring thing.
06-04-11, 07:26 PM
#44
Lol I went into this expecting to blow my engine. But after having it running I feel a lot more comfortable with it than I did before. It has an exhaust leak, doesn't idle, and for a while smoked a lot. But as I work on it it continues to run smoother and smoother.
06-20-11, 05:46 PM
#46
Been a while since I posted, haven't been doing much to the car because I've been working alot.
Right now the car runs and drives fine, but has a few problems. I haven't gotten it to idle yet. I'm assuming a vacuum leak somewhere because the car has trouble running under 1500rpm. I am currently using the N/A throttlebody on the car because I have no bac and I assumed that the idle adjustment would be somewhere accessible (didn't know it was on the top). So to set idle I will have to remove the UIM, turn the screw, and guess and check (whoops). The car also has a large exhaust leak at the turbo manifold, I think I blew the paper gasket because I didn't torque down a nut (face palm). Because of this, the car only hits 4-5psi right now. It's a hell of a lot quicker than it was already, and I haven't even gotten a chance to go all out yet. I welded the hole on the cat for the split air pipe shut for now, I think I'm going to pick up a test pipe and replace the cat. I also have to replace the bolts and the last gasket before the passenger side muffler.
The plans as of right now are:
1) fix everything mentioned above
2) Hook up my wideband
3) replace turbo oil and water lines with SS braided
4) larger secondary injectors for insurance (someone recommend a size please, stock turbo and ports)
5) AFC piggyback tune
Until this is all done, I think I'll leave everything else the way it is.
Right now the car runs and drives fine, but has a few problems. I haven't gotten it to idle yet. I'm assuming a vacuum leak somewhere because the car has trouble running under 1500rpm. I am currently using the N/A throttlebody on the car because I have no bac and I assumed that the idle adjustment would be somewhere accessible (didn't know it was on the top). So to set idle I will have to remove the UIM, turn the screw, and guess and check (whoops). The car also has a large exhaust leak at the turbo manifold, I think I blew the paper gasket because I didn't torque down a nut (face palm). Because of this, the car only hits 4-5psi right now. It's a hell of a lot quicker than it was already, and I haven't even gotten a chance to go all out yet. I welded the hole on the cat for the split air pipe shut for now, I think I'm going to pick up a test pipe and replace the cat. I also have to replace the bolts and the last gasket before the passenger side muffler.
The plans as of right now are:
1) fix everything mentioned above
2) Hook up my wideband
3) replace turbo oil and water lines with SS braided
4) larger secondary injectors for insurance (someone recommend a size please, stock turbo and ports)
5) AFC piggyback tune
Until this is all done, I think I'll leave everything else the way it is.
06-22-11, 12:50 PM
#48
720s. Any suggestion on a brand? I have some research to do :-)
Had the day off from job and girlfriend so I got some **** done for once. Here's a pic of the gauges set up on my A pillar. I hate white faced gauges, but they were cheap and available. They look better at night because they light up orange like the dash lights. I wired them to the dimmer switch. Hopefully one day I'll have the money to completely re-do my interior and get all matching gauges to the stock ones on the car.
And here's all the **** I wired into the glove box because I didn't have anywhere else to put it at the time. My AFC neo, LC-1 wideband gauge, and greddy turbo timer. I figured it would be alright keeping the AFC and WB concealed because I will only be using them when making corrections. I'd rather be driving and telling a passenger what to set on the AFC than have someone else drive.
I also picked up a new gasket for my passenger side muffler and got that back on today. I was hoping it would be a little bit quieter, but the exhaust leak at the turbo manifold still overpowers the sound of everything else. I get paid tomorrow, and will be ordering a new METAL gasket. I guess from pineapple racing.
Had the day off from job and girlfriend so I got some **** done for once. Here's a pic of the gauges set up on my A pillar. I hate white faced gauges, but they were cheap and available. They look better at night because they light up orange like the dash lights. I wired them to the dimmer switch. Hopefully one day I'll have the money to completely re-do my interior and get all matching gauges to the stock ones on the car.
And here's all the **** I wired into the glove box because I didn't have anywhere else to put it at the time. My AFC neo, LC-1 wideband gauge, and greddy turbo timer. I figured it would be alright keeping the AFC and WB concealed because I will only be using them when making corrections. I'd rather be driving and telling a passenger what to set on the AFC than have someone else drive.
I also picked up a new gasket for my passenger side muffler and got that back on today. I was hoping it would be a little bit quieter, but the exhaust leak at the turbo manifold still overpowers the sound of everything else. I get paid tomorrow, and will be ordering a new METAL gasket. I guess from pineapple racing.
06-22-11, 03:16 PM
#50
Yep. Told you you're going to need a BAC 
Now, don't neglect to route the suction for the BAC to somewhere in FRONT of the turbo, but BEHIND the AFM. Very important. Also, pineapple has good prices on exhaust gaskets. The graphite ones worked well for me so far. Just make sure to use a washer and lockwasher so things won't have a tendency to back off.
Also, a vacuum leak would usually mean the car idles really high, uncontrollably. Not poorly at low RPM. Shoot some brake cleaner around the intake snorkel and manifold, but I'd assume that something else is wrong, like the timing (which you can't check unless the idle is right) or the TPS is misadjusted (probably). What condition are the spark plugs and wires in? That's the kind of stuff that can make a shitty idle.
BTW, good location for the AFC and turbo timer, but I'd have put the wideband somewhere a bit more visible.
Now, don't neglect to route the suction for the BAC to somewhere in FRONT of the turbo, but BEHIND the AFM. Very important. Also, pineapple has good prices on exhaust gaskets. The graphite ones worked well for me so far. Just make sure to use a washer and lockwasher so things won't have a tendency to back off.
Also, a vacuum leak would usually mean the car idles really high, uncontrollably. Not poorly at low RPM. Shoot some brake cleaner around the intake snorkel and manifold, but I'd assume that something else is wrong, like the timing (which you can't check unless the idle is right) or the TPS is misadjusted (probably). What condition are the spark plugs and wires in? That's the kind of stuff that can make a shitty idle.
BTW, good location for the AFC and turbo timer, but I'd have put the wideband somewhere a bit more visible.