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i'm gonna assume a lot here, but were you having detonation issue with pump gas on the 9.7 rotors, or are you trying to get better power and response with E85?
i'm gonna assume a lot here, but were you having detonation issue with pump gas on the 9.7 rotors, or are you trying to get better power and response with E85?
it goes hand in hand... I was running about 8-10 psi on the BNR. I probably didn't have a lot of power... I'd say somewhere between 250 and 280 whp. When I swapped to the 9.7 rotors I had to take a lot of timing out of the map before it was happy again.
e85 will allow me not to worry about it as much as well as being able to run more boost, which increases power and response. It also cools the intake charge which helps with the higher compression rotors.
There are a lot of upsides with only a few downsides.
The 9.7:1 rotors aren't as dangerous as everyone makes them out to be.
Compared to 9.0CR S5/FD rotors at 16psi , the 9.7 make the same chamber pressures at 13.8psi. Considering many people run FD engines around 16-18 psi on 93oct, 14psi with similar timing is doable. I ran 14 psi with straight 93 and 18psi with ~500cc water meth and ~12* timing all year with no issues. I did notice an improvement in low load drivability with the higher CR, but honestly the only reason I'm running them is because I ruined the bearings in my TII rotors and S5/FD rotors cost more than I paid for my car lol.
Downpipe is fully welded. It starts off with a 3" v-band -> 3" to 3.5" short transition -> 3.5" double 45* -> 3.5" to 3" long transition -> a slight kink (to line up with the existing exhaust) -> 3" v-band.
Temporary air filter setup is a K&N RU-4410. It's a 3" high filter with a 0.625" flange so it ended up fitting. But it's definitely not large enough. This was just so I could drive it home from my friends house:
The drive home was uneventful, but pretty awesome. rock solid boost @ 7 psi (I have a 7 psi spring in the wastegate currently). I redlined 4th and went up to 5k in fifth (on a private road of course...) and saw boost maybe go to 8 psi... so I'm very happy with the internal wastegate.
I have one already and test fit it... it rubs the fan shroud a bit, but I think I can trim things to make it fit a bit better, or maybe just put something there so I don't rub through the coupler. 2.5" through to a much larger filter should flow a lot better than the shorty filter I have on there.
WOW thats with the turblown cast manifold?! i thought it was supposed to position it really close to the factory position? or was that the crazy rising RPM manifold? that's a lot more forward than I expected...I have a feeling I'll have a similar issue as you.
What did you do for your intercooler pipe? it drops it right under the strut bar...damn thats no good either!
Last edited by driftxsequence; Dec 21, 2015 at 10:58 PM.
WOW thats with the turblown cast manifold?! i thought it was supposed to position it really close to the factory position? or was that the crazy rising RPM manifold? that's a lot more forward than I expected...I have a feeling I'll have a similar issue as you.
Yeah, that's the turblown cast manifold.... if you look at it the turblown manifold lines the exhaust up with the front exhaust port. the stock turbo lines it up with the rear exhaust port. This is better as far as keeping the front of the turbo out of the exhaust flow... but yeah, it's tight if you have a v-mount.
measurement G is 4.94".... some of this might be able to get trimmed back by trimming the coupler side of it, but I only have ~3.7" if you count the 1" of turbo inlet.
I might get one just to see, but it probably won't work.
Originally Posted by driftxsequence
What did you do for your intercooler pipe? it drops it right under the strut bar...damn thats no good either!
The intercooler piping was pretty easy, I actually like it better than what I had. I reused the 2" -> 2.5" 90* coupler I had on my old setup and trimmed it a lot. into a 2.5" 90* pipe, into a 2.5" -> 2.75" straight coupler at the intercooler.
measurement G is 4.94".... some of this might be able to get trimmed back by trimming the coupler side of it, but I only have ~3.7" if you count the 1" of turbo inlet.
I might get one just to see, but it probably won't work.
Well, its a bummer the Turblown manifold is such a "big turbo" style manifold (putting the turbo forward) when there is so much room in the FC for a more rear positioned turbo.
On an FD you have ABS in the way back there behind the shock tower and they wanted to be able to fit all 3 large frame EFRs.
If you fall in love with the EFR you could go OCD on some details if you choose to.
For instance, take the compressor cover off and machine the snout off the inlet and weld an aluminum V-band on to a nice 45 - 90 deg 3.5" Aluminum bend on there (whatever angle allows you to fit biggest V-stack/filter).
A bend right before the inlet might not be the best for flow, but it is actually pretty good for helping turbo transient response (spool) so the OEMs use it.
Then you could clock the compressor 45 deg counter-clockwise and weld an Aluminum V-band to a tube bend on for the compressor discharge for a larger radius continuous bend into the inter-cooler (and eliminating the notoriously unreliable silicone 90 deg coupling).
Those Vibrant Aluminum V-bands are pretty cheap and useful. Came up with the idea of using one to mate different throttle bodies/manifolds for a friends car.
Just take the usual precautions against warp (heatsink, low heat, alternating weld positions, take your time).
Or... you can leave it be! I guess the more OCD you get on it increasing flow the more you are going to get into boost creep territory.
It looks like it can bolt on to an existing turbo with just an exhaust housing and a new wastegate bracket. so hopefully they'll sell it as an upgrade kit... and hopefully it'll fit on the turblown manifold it actually looks like it should...
yeah, that is what I was planning to do if I stay single 7670 but using the stock FD sequential manifold and then the usual tubular stainless manifold off of that.
It looks like it can bolt on to an existing turbo with just an exhaust housing and a new wastegate bracket. so hopefully they'll sell it as an upgrade kit... and hopefully it'll fit on the turblown manifold it actually looks like it should...
That might clear on an FC.
Our cast efr iwg was never originally designed for an FC chassis. It was just pure luck it even fit. The FD chassis is much tighter because of the double wishbone suspension, and one can only fit the bigger efr compressor covers with the turbo in the more forward position. Of the 50 manifolds we have sold only 4 I think have gone to the FC crowd. As one can see the numbers just do not make sensor to make an FC specific cast manifold to better accomdate vmount cars.
P.s. what intercooler kit is that? Do you mind if we use one of your photos to better illustrate to prospective FC owners with vmount kits?
P.s. what intercooler kit is that? Do you mind if we use one of your photos to better illustrate to prospective FC owners with vmount kits?
it's the very first rotary extreme FC vmount (I'd actually call it a prototype). He might have changed some angles since my kit... but fitment should be relatively similair.
Sure you can use a picture, here is one I just took that gives a better idea of overall placement:
Thank you. Just a word of caution is I would be careful with that oil catch can there. I was out of state tuning cars and one caught on fire from a breather placed like that.
Elliot and Shawn are installing an IWG 8374 in my car over the winter here along with all the supporting upgrades. I'm also going E85 (flex fuel). The location of the turbo with the cast mani clobbered my stock(ish) fan shroud. So stock clutch fans also wont work with this setup.
We are going to go e-fan and air to water IC on the car with the HX mounted horizontally under the oil cooler.
Last edited by RockLobster; Dec 31, 2015 at 03:45 PM.
Thank you. Just a word of caution is I would be careful with that oil catch can there. I was out of state tuning cars and one caught on fire from a breather placed like that.
Yeah, I was planning on moving it already, I've already had some smokey close calls after filling up the catch can... Thanks for pointing it out though.
Originally Posted by RockLobster
Elliot and Shawn are installing an IWG 8374 in my car over the winter here along with all the supporting upgrades. I'm also going E85 (flex fuel). The location of the turbo with the cast mani clobbered my stock(ish) fan shroud. So stock clutch fans also wont work with this setup.
We are going to go e-fan and air to water IC on the car with the HX mounted horizontally under the oil cooler.
First I had to take apart my intake to get the ID725s I had already sold to someone (weren't going to cut it for E85 ).
then I took apart other things but waited to take the radiator out till I got the last elbow I was planning on trying out, a 4" -> 4" cobra head coupler with a 4" -> 3.5" reducer... it's giant haha:
I trimmed both the reducer and the elbow to be the same height as the shorty filter I had:
then tried to install it and it didn't go well... the 4" outlet is just too big and doesn't really fit between the inlet and the BOV hosing (which is pretty thin, and I wouldn't want to clearance the area), it's also really tight on the boost refference nipple on the compressor on the lower half.
So I'm going back to using the 3.5" -> 2.5" cobra head coupler. it'll be better than the shorty filter.
I lined it up next to the shorty filter and it's a bit longer which would explain why it rubbed a bit when I test fit it before:
so I trimmed a little bit off of it and it fits pretty well (you can also see how messed up the filter is getting from my squeezing it on and off again lol):
Then I took the radiator out because I'm done test fitting things... I forgot how quick this car comes apart
a bit off topic- but how did you time the FFE trigger kit? I cant seem to find any info about how to orient it? it's not a 1 way fit is it?
it is a 1 way fit if you have the stock main pulley. If you look at it 1 of the 4 holes is oval, that is to go on to the 1 bolt hole on the main pulley that is offset. (it's offset so you can't put the main pulley on 90* off of the main pulley hub)
it actually looks like it should...
).
