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wood is a great material for a splitter. i'd actually almost recommend a 2 or 3 piece design, as it'll break when you hit stuff, and that is ok, but you don't want to mangle the frame or the attachments.
+1 for the Dupli-color bed liner. Used that in my engine bay, wheel wells, everywhere.
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
I too love the purpose built look the splitter provides and the balance with the rear wing.
A cheap easy way to black out the splitter parts would be Dupli-color truck bed liner spray can. Its thick and textured so it doesn't soak into the wood and take tons of coats and it will flex with the aluminum section as well instead of flaking off.
"I put that **** on everything"
I forget if I already preached this cheap easy race car solution on your thread or not- sorry. You can even create body patches or interior panels out of duct tape and spray them for a semi-permanent solution!
Its like poor man's non structural CF or the old canvas and dope method- LOL
Not a whole lot done on the rx7... I had to fix the rallycross car. but I did give it a string alignment! that was a pita... I need some slip plates.
Autocross was yesterday, it went pretty good. I finally got a new phone so I can use the solostorm app again (my old phone had a broken back button). the car peaked at 1.41 lateral Gs which is pretty decent I think:
when are you going to install the efr? are you doing the ms3 Install at same time?car looks good
This winter. The last autocross of the season is in mid October sometime, so I'll probably start taking it apart after that.
Yes, along with water injection and some other stuff. It should be fun. The car already has a MS3X, I'll be switching to a EFIsource gold box megasquirt: MS3 Universal Gold Box with pigtail - EFI Source
I also mounted my splitter to my trailer a lot better. I drilled two 2.5" holes in the splitter and it slides right over the poles. It works our really well.
Black trash bag folded up a couple times under each front tire with a little spray grease between the layers.
You're welcome.
haha yeah. that's actually what I ended up doing after the 3rd time I remeasured and everything was completely different. some garbage bags with WD40 sprayed into them.
I could also use a steering wheel lock of some sort to keep it from moving... I was not in my happy place when I was doing the alignment haha. but it turned out fine.
I'm currently running ~3/16" out in the front and 3/16" in on the back. might play around with it some more for the next autocross.
haha yeah. that's actually what I ended up doing after the 3rd time I remeasured and everything was completely different. some garbage bags with WD40 sprayed into them.
I could also use a steering wheel lock of some sort to keep it from moving... I was not in my happy place when I was doing the alignment haha. but it turned out fine.
I'm currently running ~3/16" out in the front and 3/16" in on the back. might play around with it some more for the next autocross.
I'm 1/16" out front and 1/4" in rear. I really like the added toe in the back. It gave me a lot more to lean on in higher speed turns.
I'm 1/16" out front and 1/4" in rear. I really like the added toe in the back. It gave me a lot more to lean on in higher speed turns.
I added toe out in the front with this alignment and liked it... it helped with my turn in which I've been searching for...
I don't have higher speed turns but when I add some more power I might need to add some more rear toe in.
I also want to play with the subframe link vs the dog bones to see what they do to the camber curve in the back... currently I have a lot of subframe link in it to get the pinion angle right for some reason, I think I crushed most of the rubber bushings that came with the 8.8 kit. I'm at around -1* with just stage 1 ronin links...
I think my rear suspension is going to take some fiddling to deal with big power...
Yea for autox I can see the increased toe out working very well. I tried that much toe out once and the car got a little numb from the center out, which is what I expected. Turn in was almost too crisp, so I backed it back down.
I don't have any sub link preload on my rear end at all. I did all the camber adjustment with the camber links. I did this because all the mounts in my car are solid, including my front diff mount. That said I had to get an adjustable sublink because the stock length was incorrect after installing the 8.8.
I've been thinking about whether the car has too much droop travel due to the tender springs.... the car doesn't actually compress the suspension that much, it mostly just lifts up the inside of the car which can't really be good...
anybody that's smart have any opinions on tender springs?
The tender springs don't change your droop travel. With or without the tender springs the car will behave exactly the same. You need a strap or chain to limit your droop travel.. Or shorter/remounted struts.
The tender springs don't change your droop travel. With or without the tender springs the car will behave exactly the same. You need a strap or chain to limit your droop travel.. Or shorter/remounted struts.
tenders don't change the total drop travel no, but while cornering they will be pushing that side of the car up, and are also are pushing on the rebound damping of the shock to extend it. without the tender springs the car would be more level, but also might start picking up wheels which I don't want.
With the amount of rebound damping my car has I doubt I'd unseat springs on an autocross course without tenders in it. I think the wheels would just lift like the fronts did when I had the softer rear springs.
These tenders are 150 lbs/in, they're not helpers which are more or less 0 rate.
Yes I am with you now. I didn't realize you were running that high of a rate on them. Any reason why you are running those instead of something with near 0 rate? Is it just to keep the inside tires on the ground?
If your theory is correct and you are not compressing the front suspension much I'd remove the tenders, limit the droop travel externally if needed and see what happens.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; Aug 31, 2015 at 05:04 PM.
I see what you mean about not much suspension compression on the outside tires from looking at your static ride height versus the loaded outside.
If your theory is correct and you are not compressing the front suspension much I'd remove the tenders, limit the droop travel externally if needed and see what happens.
My guess is he will start being part of the SSM 2 wheel cornering club.
The FC is narrow even with the widebody for the amount of rubber he is packing and its tall with the travel needed for the 26" tall tires.
--------------
possible expensive "fix" idea-
If you drop to the 275/35-15 on 15x11 you can lower the entire car 1.25" from tire height alone and then you need 1.25" less suspension compression travel so you can lower it the other 1.25".
2.5" lower ride height will do wonders to keep the car flatter around the turns with proper roll center correction.
You will be giving up tire width, but I think with the strut front end keeping the car as level as possible on cornering will keep more of the skinnier tire in contact with the track more than leaning over on wider tires (your actual angle of lean varies constantly but your static camber setting is... static).
In any case, keeping the car more level will hopefully keep some load on the inside tires.
On those little 23" tires on 15s you are actually gaining a little sidewall and a lower volume of air in the tires- so your (now lower) static camber *may* have less of an effect on vertical traction as well.
This *may* help to offset the lower vertical traction from shorter (front to back) contact patch of the smaller diameter tires.
Anyways- an expensive thought to keep on the back burner.
Yes I am with you now. I didn't realize you were running that high of a rate on them. Any reason why you are running those instead of something with near 0 rate? Is it just to keep the inside tires on the ground?
If your theory is correct and you are not compressing the front suspension much I'd remove the tenders, limit the droop travel externally if needed and see what happens.
It's to keep the inside tires down and because I'm running such stiff springs, there wouldn't be much spring travel with the weight of the car on them (less than an inch up front w/ the 900 lb springs...)
Yeah, I think it might be time to remove the tenders just to see how it is, at least up front and maybe shorten them in the back (put the shorter ones from the front back there). I still want to keep the torsen happy...
The problem with that is I don't think my front 6" springs aren't long enough to run without the tenders lol, maybe I'll get some spring spacers.
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
I see what you mean about not much suspension compression on the outside tires from looking at your static ride height versus the loaded outside.
If your theory is correct and you are not compressing the front suspension much I'd remove the tenders, limit the droop travel externally if needed and see what happens.
My guess is he will start being part of the SSM 2 wheel cornering club.
The FC is narrow even with the widebody for the amount of rubber he is packing and its tall with the travel needed for the 26" tall tires.
--------------
possible expensive "fix" idea-
If you drop to the 275/35-15 on 15x11 you can lower the entire car 1.25" from tire height alone and then you need 1.25" less suspension compression travel so you can lower it the other 1.25".
2.5" lower ride height will do wonders to keep the car flatter around the turns with proper roll center correction.
You will be giving up tire width, but I think with the strut front end keeping the car as level as possible on cornering will keep more of the skinnier tire in contact with the track more than leaning over on wider tires (your actual angle of lean varies constantly but your static camber setting is... static).
In any case, keeping the car more level will hopefully keep some load on the inside tires.
On those little 23" tires on 15s you are actually gaining a little sidewall and a lower volume of air in the tires- so your (now lower) static camber *may* have less of an effect on vertical traction as well.
This *may* help to offset the lower vertical traction from shorter (front to back) contact patch of the smaller diameter tires.
Anyways- an expensive thought to keep on the back burner.
Yeah... I've thought about that too before... but there aren't a lot of cheap 15x11 options, especially in 5x114.
I've been following Jason Merritt's 240SX build thread on nissanroadracing.com for a while and he started off with 275/15s and switched to 315/18s and hasn't gone back. so I don't think that's the answer. 240s are limited by the same front fender clearance issues FCs are.
Martin valent's SSM SW20 MR2 is another example of a ride height limited car and he's running a 285/18 - 335?/17 stagger. 285s because they're 24.9" or whatever but being mid engine he can afford the smaller tire up front...
Both of whom I respect a lot, and trust their own tuning abilities more than mine :-P
I think the correct answer is just give taking the tenders off a try and see what happens...
Yeah, those 15s are probably wheelspin city when you try to put the power down anyways.
Some day I wanna do an auto-x car with duallies. Run the inside lower pressure and the outside higher pressure? So many possibilities
haha
I've also been tempted to just say screw it and go to XP and get some nice wide 23.5" avons.... but I don't think I'm quite ready for that yet lol
I might also experiment with stiffer tenders... so they're still there but don't travel as much... with such stiff main springs, stiffer tenders might not be a bad idea as long as the fully compressed load is less than the corner weight.
I've been thinking about whether the car has too much droop travel due to the tender springs.... the car doesn't actually compress the suspension that much, it mostly just lifts up the inside of the car which can't really be good...
anybody that's smart have any opinions on tender springs?
maybe i missed a memo, but if the problem is that the outside suspension doesn't compress, maybe go after that? the droop side is working, those tires are still on the ground...
how are you tuning the suspension? i know auto-x is different than road racing, but tire temps?
but when I add some more power I might need to add some more rear toe in.
So many possibilities 
