Full race sells a billet bov cover with a 1/8npt port and 90 degree fitting. I believe this would give you more clearance vs the plastic barb that sticks straight out. That 7670 has a 3.5 in inlet, is the 3.5 inch cobra elbow any smaller ?

 

I'm currently running the turbosmart recirc valve which is even worse, but the problem isn't really with the bov cover (if it was I would have just blocked it off entirely which I thought about).

The problem with the 4" cobra head was I didn't have clearance between the inlet and the actual bov housing casting on the cover because the rubber coupler + spacer was just much too big. if I had an 8376 it actually might work out (because they have a 4" inlet).

(there was also the problem where the 4" cobra head also hit on everything else because the 4" exit is giant... but I could never actually get it positioned well enough to see how well it would work out because of the compressor cover issues.)

The problem I'm having is there aren't any 3.5" -> 3.5" cobra couplers. just 4" and 3". the only 3.5" one steps down to 2.5" intake hose (which is what I'll be using, at least for next season).

 

wow, im really impressed with all your work. My new vm has even more clearance since I redid the frame. So this turbo should be easier to fit an intake on. Awesome work. Happy Holidays.

 

Big longshot, but does the 7670 still fit in the FC if you flip the Turblown cast manifold over so the straight runner is in the rear like stock FC manifold?

 

I thought about that, the t4 flange on the manifold is at about a 45* angle to the engine mounting flange, which would but the turbo much further down than it is now so it would end up in the frame rail.

 

Nice !

 

So this is where I'm going to go with this intake as of now.

3.5" -> 2.5" cobra head
to
60* 2.5" elbow
to
2.5" -> 6" velocity stack

I plan on putting a nice big 6" flanged K&N filter on it. it looks like a 7" long filter will fit. Looking at the K&N filters that are that size I think I'll probably start with a RF-1042.

 

I like how it looks

 

Did you make the velocity stack?

 

it's a vibrant velocity stack:

Vibrant Performance ::.

 

Removed the new 3.5" downpipe and weighed it. 7.8 lbs.

so 3.8 lbs lighter than the old downpipe and the complete exhaust is now down to 28.0 lbs

 

I also test fit a water pump block off for the new davies craig electric water pump:



and assembled the first part of the new fuel system, a 1.5L fuel surge tank with a new walbro 400 E85 fuel pump.

 

Finally got the rule clarification back from the scca:

#18364 SM eligibility inquiry
Per the SMAC, the 1986-1991 Mazda RX7 2+2 meets the requirements for the SM class and is thus allowed to compete in Street Modified.

That in addition to this rule:
16.1.K. Rear passenger seat(s), including restraints and associated hardware may be removed.

and the fact that all the things that make my car a turboII are free to change in SM means I can run in street modified instead of super street modified. So I can avoid FDs and other crazy 2 seat cars

 

Now we have to just deal with gtr's and what not. Lol

 

Or if anyone could be bothered to build an RX-8 for SM.

 

finally some progress:

got the engine out of the car:



just FYI, stage 8 locking fasteners aren't going to work without some modifications



This is what they're supposed to look like, the tap clips onto the nut with a circlip and prevents it from backing out:




My buddy with a flywheel wrench is currently snowed in (we got ~30" of snow over the weekend) so I have to wait to take the engine all the way apart. but looking into the rear exhaust port I see this which is odd, any ideas what might have left that streak?

 

Damn Mike, you so crazy.

 

Hey man, I am not sure how far away you are from NOVA, but I have an electric impact gun, and correct socket for the flywheel nut. You are more than welcome to use it!

BTW - You got me attention with the electric water pump setup, keep us posted on it.

PS - No idea about that streak

 

The streak looks like where the chrome is worn down to the steel liner (and I hope I am wrong!).

 

That's an odd angle for a wear pattern. Interested to see what it looks like once you unbutton the engine.

 

Nice to see your still at it with the car man. If you need anything you know where I am. How did the FD upper work for you?

 

So I got the engine apart.



Everything looks relatively fine, except the apex seal wear.... Here is a picture of an apex seal from the front rotor (on the left) and two from the rear rotor (middle and right). they're worn significantly. it looks like they're only worn on 1 side? (the inner side without the triangle piece). They also have rough corners length-wise, I assume due to the wearing...

The white steak I saw through the exhaust port was a white chalky substance... not sure what it was, but there was some in the exhaust manifold too. I imagine the apex seal wasn't wiping it off due to the odd wear on them (that's the side of the housing with the apex seal wear)




I checked for dents in the rotor... and there is nothing significant, there are some corners where I can see a bit of light through with a straight edge, but I'm not too concerned with it. I also tested the apex seal slot wear and it's between .0025 and .003 which is well within spec.

So currently I think I'm just going to throw some new seals in it (OEM mazda this time), new water seals (pineapple racing) and call it a day.

Here are some pictures of the rest of the engine:




rear housing





front housing





rear iron

 

What apex seals were you using?
Is the exhaust ported?

 

Very clean rotors. How many KM's? Here is mine after 1000km. No idea what happened. After which I more or less rebuilt it and then just let the car sit for lack of time and tired of using vacation and my free time on her

 

Very nice!
Glad everything looks in good shape besides the apex seals.

Never had that weird apex seal wear (different height across the length of seal). Could it be the apex seal springs got seated weird on the rear rotor with the short spring pushed out of its land and up onto the long spring's outer land? Maybe this caused that side of the apex seal to resist being pushed into the rotor slot and so excessive wear.

You might see something on the backside of the apex seals where the springs rub.

White chalky sounds like burned coolant or water wetter to me.