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The pump varies its speed from basically zero rpm up to its max to control flow - in essence it is a thermostat
You are doing all the things I wish I had the time and funds to do...Please let me know how you like the EFR. I think next year this time I will be getting one with the turblown cast manifold.
Last edited by driftxsequence; 02-04-16 at 08:07 PM.
Should you run some sort of restrictor in there or you think it will be fine empty?
I've seen people argue it either way, I don't think it makes a big difference. the main issue is people taking out the thermostat without plugging the passage so it goes through both the radiator and the bypass. with the passage plugged it's just a slightly odd shaped opening in the coolant passage, just like where the water pump used to be...
Originally Posted by driftxsequence
The pump varies its speed from basically zero rpm up to its max to control flow - in essence it is a thermostat
You are doing all the things I wish I had the time and funds to do...Please let me know how you like the EFR. I think next year this time I will be getting one with the turblown cast manifold.
yup, when the cars cold it just pulses the coolant through the system every 30 seconds until it warms up... not ideal. bit my car isn't known for keeping coolant cold for long... I don't think it'll be a problem.
I have owned this car for 12 years lol just think of yourself as a few years behind
I don't know how I missed that. Must not have caught the difference in the base weights. Thanks for pointing it out. I was stressing finding a way to get down to 2500 lbs. Guess I won't have to worry about it now. In fact, I will probably have to scale the car now because I think I may already be under 2,700 with all the rear trim in. Wish I would have know before I spent all that money on a braille. I could have just relocated a cheaper battery to the spare tire compartment. Atleast I went with the 21lb AGM to get as much cranking power as possible.
I highly recommend this part by xtreme rotaries....it is o-ringed towards the engine and has changeable o-ringed and threaded inlet/outlet....i got mine with an-16 (if i remember it correctly)
Its also cnc ported for great flow.
It requires side mounted alternator thou (u got no AC right).
I highly recommend this part by xtreme rotaries....it is o-ringed towards the engine and has changeable o-ringed and threaded inlet/outlet....i got mine with an-16 (if i remember it correctly)
Its also cnc ported for great flow.
It requires side mounted alternator thou (u got no AC right).
I actually already have one of those.... along with their sidemount alternator bracket. currently the alternator would go right where my relocated power steering bracket would go... so it got a bit more complicated. I would also have to figure out how to do the turbo coolant line return as well as the 2 or 3 coolant temp sensors as well.
I bit off a bit more than I could chew this winter, so that might have to wait till next winter. for now the stock housing will work just fine.
also, it's always bugged me that my alternator flipped out a while back and ran at 16V for a while... (and fried my wideband controller and gauge I think), so I sent if off to get rebuild and upgraded by IRP. it's now 140A and looks all fancy and nice. It should help with the electric water pump and possibly some other stuff I have going on down the pipe... IRP 140 Amp Alternator | IRPerformance
I also took the turbo coolant return nipple off the water neck and threaded it for 1/4"? NPT. need to get a NPT to -6AN adapter for it.
I also went and got a gallon of e85 to test with from a local station where the owner claims to have "summer blend" in the tank all year round. In Maryland most stations have 3 different blends of e85 throughout the year with varying amounts of ethanol in it... this is the main reason you need a flexfuel sensor, but you need a high concentration to get a baseline tune with so the ECU can interpolate.
tested it last night and it seems legit... ~88% ethanol (I need to get more precise pouring containers to do this in the future, don't worry internet, I know all about the meniscus):
In for a long term report on the swain tech coating.
I had my last downpipe coated and it held up great. this is after about 2 years?
last time I coated my stock turbo manifold and turbine housing too and I probably wouldn't do that again (at least on a rotary). I think they're just too hot and it looked like the coating was melting off? it would bead up and fall off... and was just slowing turning darker and darker. I emailed swaintech about it and they said it was "normal" but I'm not so sure.
I'll be using different heat shields on my turbine and manifold this time around. but for the downpipe it's great.
I've heard similar reports about the beading/melting, but glad to know it sticks well on the downpipe. It must work ok, if you're putting it on again instead of a wrap?
also started taking apart the rear suspension to remove the diff among other things:
I was excited to use the ford specific axle removal tool (OTC 205-502) I got after the last time I had to remove an axle (this axles are very very stubborn) and was sad to see that the tool really doesn't work at all... I'm a bit confused how it's supposed to work. so it's more pry-bars and hammers...
I also noticed that my rear AWR top mounts had some play in them so I took them apart.... surprise! they have the wrong bearing in them for the bearing retainer they used and have 0.013" of up and down play (after the 0.05" spacer they put in there to try to fix it)
swapping the 5.14s out for 4.56s. With the new turbo, I should have a decent amount more bottom end, and I was running out of steam pretty quick on straights with the 5.14s and the BNR stage 2.
When I did the math for max mph in 2nd, I didn't really take into account a stock port turbo engine isn't going to make much power at 8k+
also started taking apart the rear suspension to remove the diff among other things:
I was excited to use the ford specific axle removal tool (OTC 205-502) I got after the last time I had to remove an axle (this axles are very very stubborn) and was sad to see that the tool really doesn't work at all... I'm a bit confused how it's supposed to work. so it's more pry-bars and hammers...
I just got done rebuilding my diff. I simply removed the half axles from the axle stubs. It was a little tight but was able to separate without much trouble. Much easier than separating at the hub.
I just got done rebuilding my diff. I simply removed the half axles from the axle stubs. It was a little tight but was able to separate without much trouble. Much easier than separating at the hub.
Let me know if you find any easier methods, as I don't own a press. Always looking for an excuse to buy new tools though.
I'm running a ronin speedworks IRS ford 8.8" rear diff and axles.... so the axles no longer split at the stub shafts:
but yeah, if you're going to do rear wheel bearings, I highly recommend getting a press, they're super useful, I use mine all the time. Harbor Freight sells some for fairly cheap that work fine.
As you might have seen I replaced the upper rear control arm bushing with the PBM unit. It was pretty easy if you have not done that yet. The PBM bushing is a nice piece.
The OTD CV tool is supposed to act like a wedge and pop the CV out when it gets to the curved part. You also have the removed seal protectors on the inners which take up extra space. I suspect that tool woudl work a bit better on the Cobra/Tbird. Mark VIII diffs. A lot of guys make a wedge with a 2X6 (with a crescent or divit in the center for more penetration) or 2X4 to get the axles out. They are a little harder to remove with the Truetrac because there are no real grooves for the c clips to sit in to sort of "capture" them, so you have to force them to compress.
If you ever got frustrated, you can just remove the inner large cv boot clamp and simply pull the cv joint out of the inner cup. Then you can pawn the inner cup removal to the rear end shop It is slightly messy, but it will work to get the axles out in a pinch or for a rebuild.
I'm sorry AWR has failed you again.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 02-24-16 at 06:53 PM.
I'm running a ronin speedworks IRS ford 8.8" rear diff and axles.... so the axles no longer split at the stub shafts but yeah, if you're going to do rear wheel bearings, I highly recommend getting a press, they're super useful, I use mine all the time. Harbor Freight sells some for fairly cheap that work fine.
I was looking at the Harbor freight presses. I think I may get one of the 12 ton presses. I was looking at the table top 6 ton but I think that it may be too restrictive in size. Any advantage of an H frame over an A frame?
As you might have seen I replaced the upper rear control arm bushing with the PBM unit. It was pretty easy if you have not done that yet. The PBM bushing is a nice piece.
Yeah, I already had some delrin bushings there... but they were really loose which I never really liked.
I ordered some stuff from RHDJapan a while back and was being fiscally irresponsible and ordered some Super now upper bearings and DTSS eliminators to replace the delrin stuff I had back there:
The OTD CV tool is supposed to act like a wedge and pop the CV out when it gets to the curved part. You also have the removed seal protectors on the inners which take up extra space. I suspect that tool woudl work a bit better on the Cobra/Tbird. Mark VIII diffs. A lot of guys make a wedge with a 2X6 (with a crescent or divit in the center for more penetration) or 2X4 to get the axles out. They are a little harder to remove with the Truetrac because there are no real grooves for the c clips to sit in to sort of "capture" them, so you have to force them to compress.
Yeah, except it doesn't wedge anything, it's just completely loose *shrug* the wedged 2x6 isn't a bad idea.
Originally Posted by tucker1170
I was looking at the Harbor freight presses. I think I may get one of the 12 ton presses. I was looking at the table top 6 ton but I think that it may be too restrictive in size. Any advantage of an H frame over an A frame?
I have a 12-ton H frame and like it. I don't know what the benefits of either are. If I were buying one now, I'd get a 20-ton just because it's bigger and you can fit more things in it, but the 12-ton hasn't let me down yet. I would not get a 6-ton.
Originally Posted by tucker1170
I admit, I haven't been able to read your entire build thread yet. Why did you decide to change to the Ford 8.8?
mostly because gears sets are plentiful and cheap (gears above 4.33s on t2 diffs are super expensive, on the 8.8 their $200-300). They also have nice diff options that are also cheap.
Why does SuperNow have you put a bearing back into the rear trailing arm? Is that intended to be an upgrade if you keep DTSS? That is all I can think of.
I believe H frame presses are a little stronger all things being equal. Also a little less top heavy, possibly less working area.. Depends on what you are doing.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 02-25-16 at 02:56 PM.
Why does SuperNow have you put a bearing back into the rear trailing arm? Is that intended to be an upgrade if you keep DTSS? That is all I can think of.
Yeah, that's the conclusion I came to... you could replace it whether you had DTSS or not...
I'm using it because that and PBM are the only other options other than the delrin ones I had and I'd rather support super now... and trust them to have decent clearances on theirs.
I messed with the ford half shaft tool some more. recalling the slide hammer attachment I got for my corolla's axles which is worth it's weight in gold (but doesn't fit on the ford axles because their too big):
I threw the hook attachment on my slide hammer and hooked it around the ford axle tool and slide hammered the axles right out. it worked really well.
then I dropped the diff. after a while trying to get the diff out without dropping the subframe I game up and ended up dropping it anyway:
then I dropped the diff. after a while trying to get the diff out without dropping the subframe I game up and ended up dropping it anyway:
LOL, I tried the same thing. Thought it would work but was much easier to just drop the subframe. Now putting the subframe back in by myself was interesting. Two jacks and only two hands to guide things is comical. I ended up getting it as close as possible with the jacks and then had to guide it by hand while I used my legs to raise the jacks. I felt like I was doing a Suzanne Somers Thighmaster workout.
02-04-16, 08:05 PM
