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the plate is a semi-thick piece of stainless I got from a forum member (Largeorangefont) I have no idea who made it for him.
I didn't spend too much time prepping it (no sanding or anything) so it doesn't look amazing, but it's not bad. paint matches fairly well (better than it seems in the pictures, my car is filthy)
used 3/16" pop rivets to hold it down and some permatex black adhesive sealant between the peices, hopefully it's fairly weather tight.
you can see my gurney flap material sitting on top of the wing... that's tonight's job, along with attaching the mid-length second element supports.
test and tune on Saturday
mount fresh Hoosier A7s on saturday night
autocross on Sunday with A7s.
At the test and tune I'm going to run on my NT01s first (315s on 17x10s), then swap on my pretty old A6s (315s on 18x12s) and then swap on the wing.
splitter supports won't be here till Tuesday... so no splitter this weekend
it turned out pretty well, the paint is crap on the center supports, I might touch it up later:
Test and tune on saturday, autocross on sunday.
(I need to fix the endplates, I maxed out their adjustment and they're still pointed up...)
At the test and tune I started with my NT01s.... they were terrible haha. The car was all over the place for the first 3-4 runs, when I finally got the tires warmed up and did a few semi-respectable runs I swapped my fairly old Hoosier A6s on and ran a few runs, and then swapped the wing on and ran the rest of the day like that
The hoosiers dropped ~2 seconds once warmed up (took a run or 2... they're big and old, but still awesome)
the wing immediately dropped half a second on the first run out, it's pretty awesome I'm really happy with it. it made the car significantly more stable.
I had some diff breather issues.... the new vent tube doesn't quite cut it. The diff also might have been overheating a bit making the issue worse (I still had the break in oil in it) When I got home the diff was at about 450 miles, so I swapped in the Motul 75w140 for the next day (a normal event) and swapped on the fresh Hoosier A7s...
This is the first time the car or I have ever been on new Hoosiers.... and they're amazing lol.
I beat a bunch of people who I'm usually a bit behind of in other classes and if I modify my PAX (autocross class based index) for SM instead of SSM (which my car is technically legal for this year, but i'm not running it) I'm sitting at 40th out of 227 people which is the best I've ever done by far, so I'm super happy with the car
Here is my fastest run (sorry, the camera rattle is back...)
and here is a run a really fast friend of mine took in the car. I was really surprised at his reaction to driving the car afterwards, he's autocrossed a 500+hp cobra kit car in XP for years and is now autocrossing a C6 Z06 in SSR, so he's used to fast cars...
next up is a splitter... the car still has some turn in understeer, so I think the splitter should help a lot. I was going to make it out of 1/2" plywood, but a friend of mine said he has half a sheet of left over alumacore from his splitter (it looks like cardboard made of out aluminum) that is a way better material for a splitter... so I'll probably make it out of the plywood sheet I have to make a template and then trace it onto the alumacore
Here are some exterior shots of the car (due to some run order issues with my friend driving, and me getting a re-run for a bad time, I got in the "4th run video" 3 times lol)
If you actually click on the links it'll take you to the right point in the video, playing it in the forum window doesn't work though...
You may just need a catch can for the diff. I can't see you overheating it in that short of a time period. The highest I have ever see is probably 240-250F and that was in a 100 degree day during a 30 minute track session.
Here is how I have my catch can set up. It goes straight down through the floor and connects to the diff breather. I have had no issues to date. I am using a go kart catch can, but you could make one out of a small Gatorade bottle to test it out and see if you get anything in it.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; May 19, 2015 at 12:58 PM.
You may just need a catch can for the diff. I can't see you overheating it in that short of a time period. The highest I have ever see is probably 240-250F and that was in a 100 degree day during a 30 minute track session.
Here is how I have my catch can set up. It goes straight down through the floor and connects to the diff breather. I have had no issues to date. I am using a go kart catch can, but you could make one out of a small Gatorade bottle to test it out and see if you get anything in it.
yeah... yours is better because it both goes straight up and has a catch can that'll drain back down. I really didn't want to drill through my floor, but I might have to. I might just try adding some loops to mine first... it just sucks that there isn't a lot of room to go up
I thought I was overheating it because it was too hot to touch, and this was at the test and tune where i was doing back to back runs (probably 10 in a row at that point) and most mustang guys say you need a diff cooler on them... and it was puking oil even though I thought I fixed it.
It only puked a little bit on Sunday with the new oil... so it's not too bad.
The mustang guys need diff coolers because their cars are heavier and the exhaust passes right below the diff. I don't even think you need a catch can, but is it good to have just in case.
You might not even be puking, it may just be sloshing out. The explorer covers do not have much of a baffle over the vent hole and the fluid could just be working out of vent tubing you are using from the quick back and forth turns. You really need the vent tube elevated to keep the fluid draining back into the diff.
Was the break in gear oil thinner than the 75W140 you put in after?
Nice Videos (besides the rattle) and driving! What were your times? 'Larry' was 57 something?
I ended up with a 58.3, all my my runs including my first were in the 58s... which was frustrating. Larry had a 57.5 with a few cones, there is definitely more in the car.
Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
The mustang guys need diff coolers because their cars are heavier and the exhaust passes right below the diff. I don't even think you need a catch can, but is it good to have just in case.
You might not even be puking, it may just be sloshing out. The explorer covers do not have much of a baffle over the vent hole and the fluid could just be working out of vent tubing you are using from the quick back and forth turns. You really need the vent tube elevated to keep the fluid draining back into the diff.
Was the break in gear oil thinner than the 75W140 you put in after?
Yeah, the break-in oil was some non-synthetic 80w90
I definitely think it's sloshing out... I'm not sure I'll be able to fix it without bringing it up out of the floor...
I ended up with a 58.3, all my my runs including my first were in the 58s... which was frustrating. Larry had a 57.5 with a few cones, there is definitely more in the car.
Yeah, the break-in oil was some non-synthetic 80w90
I definitely think it's sloshing out... I'm not sure I'll be able to fix it without bringing it up out of the floor...
I agree. I don't think you have a heat issue at all.
I agree. I don't think you have a heat issue at all.
Well what's one more hole in the car right?
one more question... won't it make the inside of the car smell like gear oil? I have a rotary so strong smells kind of come with the territory..., but I like to avoid the smell of gear oil when I can
I hate the gear oil smell too. I have never smelled gear oil in the car ever. If it ever became an issue I would remove the filter and add another small tube routed outside the car through some existing hole.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; May 19, 2015 at 07:22 PM.
A new turbosmart universal 2 port wastegate actuator and a mac 4 port boost control solonoid.
the turbosmart IWG actuator has replaceable springs which is super nice, that one is actually a 14 psi actuator, but that is actually 2x7psi springs and I can take it apart and remove one of those springs to get 7psi + boost control. http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-cont...pringchart.pdf
Another cool feature is that it has a bottom nipple, so in combination with the 4 port valve it'll pipe all boost pressure into the bottom hole at low rpm holding the wastegate closed and vent the top nipple, at some point it switches over to being conventional and piping boost into the top hole.
I don't want to do this until I redo my ECU again (also on the table, new ECU has better valve control circuits) and get the water injection on the engine, so it might take a while...
I don't want to do this until I redo my ECU again (also on the table, new ECU has better valve control circuits) and get the water injection on the engine, so it might take a while...
Didn't get as much done over the weekend as planned, but I did do something...
First, I fixed my wing endplates so they're actually level. This will make it not look dumb and actually give the secondary element the angle it's supposed to have.
you can see how bad it was in this picture. I just ran out of adjustment on the endplates so I drilled more adjuster slot into them:
I also made attempt #3 on my differential breather.
it's a 1-3/4" roll bar mount longacre diff breather that I attached to my 40mm cusco strut tower bar. I padded it with some fuel hose cut in half to take up the slack (because 40mm != 1-3/4")
fit fine, didn't have to oval out anything. Looks like it's going to be pretty easy to remove too if necessary since the side plates stay put and you can just slide if off the hooks to take the bottom part off.
My car no longer has whatever it's supposed to bolt into in the bumper... so I have to do something about that. I think I'm just going to flip it so it's above the bumper and put some riv-nuts into the plate to bolt the bumper into.
I ordered both the belly pan and the aero pan thing without the holes in them because none of my drains are where their supposed to be anyway (v-mount and pineapple racing oil pan) and I didn't really want big holes in aero parts anyway. They usually come with a coolant drain and an oil drain hole.
Looks awesome on there man!!! If you want I have some M6 clip nuts I can send ya, you could just clip them to your bumper skin & fasten those front 4 screws that away .
Looks awesome on there man!!! If you want I have some M6 clip nuts I can send ya, you could just clip them to your bumper skin & fasten those front 4 screws that away .
Did you find the vents too??
The holes don't really line up with my bumper.... but I think that's my bumpers fault I don't think it's the straightest. I just put some M8 riv-nuts in the plate holes and then drilled new holes in the bump skin where they lined up and bolted it together. It works fine.
I got the vents! thanks. but the vents in my car are fine lol. I replaced them like 7 years ago with new OEM ones. but I'll definitely save them for when those vents inevitably break lol.
It took a lot of measuring and plumb bobbing... but I think it turned out pretty well so far. it's being built to class limits which is 6" from the tip of the bumper:
I gave up on getting it ready in time for the autocross on sunday... but it'll be on for the next one.
Your car is an inspiration (at least to me). Got a couple of things to finish up on the FC, might be able to get one or two auto x in before the end of the year #mehoping
Not to hijack your thread but you seem to be pretty knowledgeable about auto crossing rotaries. Does porting your engine automatically put you in SM? I have a Street port and not much else so I've been running in CSP to be competitive but I don't think that's right from what I can see in the rule book.
