This was a busy weekend. I got the battery relocated and mounted. I need to finish the Haltech harness section that goes to the battery and fuel pump, then I can put in the back half of my interior. I also finished the chassis harness and ran it through the car. It turned out pretty nice I think. I'm still not sure if anything works as I haven't hooked power to it all yet. The Haltech is mounted and I'm ready to start running the wiring in the bay. It turns out the Elite software can create a wiring diagram specifically for your application so that got so much easier, but still a ton of work. Life get in the way a lot so the progress in these final stages is a bit slower than I like but its coming together quite nicely.

 

I wanted to get the wiring ran to all the engine bay components so that means I need to start making things. So I mad my plates for the air filter. even with the offsetting of the filter to the back of the engine bay it still hits the hood. It looks like the hood is going to need a little massaging to fit proper, I just hope I don't need to cut through the top of it. I also started on a mounting plate for the Coils. I'm not sure how I can get the coils wired and plugged into the plugs with such little space, and have it still look good. It would help it I would have gotten coil on plug coils. Maybe I can find some sort of boot that will effectively do the same thing Im just not sure yet.

 

Another Busy Weekend in the books. I was able to land on a design I wanted for the coils. Although the shape and location I want the material .040 aluminum is too flimsy. I would probably work but it still just looks kind of thin and wiggles a bit. For now it going to be a place holder to get the wiring sorted. the next project was to get the exhaust in so I could work on the o2 wiring. I cant weld so I got some help from our race team captain and he installed the o2 bungs in the header. Wrapped it and installed it, and while I was messing with the exhaust why not make a hear shield. Then figured this would be the best place for the vacuum block. FPR and fuel filter were also mounted so I'm about have a full fuel system.
Next jobs are going to be finish the o2 Wiring, put in trans fluid, install the rest of the exhaust, put the car on the ground, then install the interior. I hope I can get all that done this week. I'm waiting on spark plug wires and a couple sensors then I can finish the ECU wiring. I'm hoping startup after that.

 

The Interior is in. I tested the electronics and it seems there are some issues with the headlights. Everything turns on except the headlights. Also the fuel gauge isn't reading on the dash so I may have screwed up the wiring at the pump when I messed with that. I'm just going to make a List of the issues and continue with the build and fix all the gremlins at the end. My spark plug wires are in I need to still make the patch harness for the could and cut the lengths of the plug wires. Now on to the Haltech wiring harness, I need to drill in my air temp sensor and figure out what oil pressure gauge to order. After I get the oil sensor figured It should be fluids and test start......

 

Great work, watching with interest.

I'm also looking into slimming down the wiring on my FC. Half of its for stuff that was never on the car, I've got random plugs hanging out everywhere.

 

Thanks, its not as hard as you would think. The headlights still don't work so I should keep my mouth shut LOL. but really once you get into it its just following wires to plugs and deciding if its important enough to keep. The real struggle was getting the dash in and out by myself and breaking some of the interior plastic parts.

 

Well I've got everything connected up still, so my plan is just to put red tape around anything not connected up and that isn't used for diagnostics or whatever and then trace the wires back, probably easier than ripping it out and then deciding what to do!

 

This week I finished the wiring for everything but the oil pressure sensor. I also finished the bracket for the coils. I think they turned out great The face that is polished had a rotor painted on it but turns out paint doesn't stick to polish LOL, so that will likely be made with a vinyl. Now that the Wiring is finished I need to add fluids upload a startup map and try its first fire up!!

 

 

Very busy last few days with the car. There were a few small issues before startup. First was fuel delivery. Turns out I had the pump wired incorrectly. The factory patch harness seems to be made out of left over wires. Red and green are signal for the level. black/white is positive power and black is ground. but in the tank the red and black are power and the level signal is green and black. After that was sorted the pump wasn't building pressure. That was because I trued to reuse the factory seal system with the 2 pieces of plastic and the O ring. The Walbro was not having that, so it was cut off and replaced with the supplied hose and clams that came with the pump. once that was sorted I set the fuel pressure and attempted to start again. but after a few seconds of turning it over I blew the main fuse in the factory relocated fuse box. The fuse that was in there was only a 60A and the FSM says it needs to be 100A so that was replaced properly. After that back to attempt to start. It would just crank and crank not really trying to ever catch. I knew I didn't set the CAS when I rebuilt the engine so that was the first place to look and what do you know it was off 1/4 turn. That was sorted, I durned the fuel pump off and cranked it until IT STARTED!!!!! I turned the pump back on and it died. Now I can only get it to start when the pump is off. I think I need a more specific base tune for the 1050X injectors. right now the base tune is based off an FDs map with direct fire.

 

Finally I was able to have the wheel mounted with tires. I'm not a huge fan of the fitment they are a little wide and I think I'm going to need fenders, but with fenders I can jump the size up to 255 so that's good. I still need to work on the fuel map before I can drive it a little harder. Another member on here has basically been doing all the tuning for me remotely as I learn along. Once that is sorted I'll take it somewhere to have it dyno tuned. The little bit I have driven it seems like its going to be really really fun to drive. Throttle response is quick with all the lightened parts.

 

A little update. I've just been working on the tune. The car has roughly 250 miles on the rebuild but the base fuel map has a bit to go before its perfect. I'm doing the HP Academy to learn what I'm doing so it's all a very slow process but I am getting it sorted. When I get the fuel map close to my target AFRs I'm going to rent some dyno time and tune the timing map. I haven't messed with the transient throttle too much so I haven't really tested the throttle response but the couple full throttle pulls up to 5500 RPM I have done make me think this is going to be a monster!

once I get it off the dyno I'll share my tune with the world and be posting my results. It'll be interesting to see if I can meet the 220 WHP I started out seeking many moons ago.

 

Really cool build. I love it!

 

The props feel good man, Thank you!
I've been having some trouble with the car. I havnt been able to get the AFRs to come down from bouncing around 14-19. No matter what numbers I put in the VE table the AFR would not enrich. Also my innovate gauge was flashing a mixture of codes E2, E8, E9. I figured I cooked my o2 sensors and decided to order 2 new sensors and move the locations back roughly 18" to right before the pre-silencer. Tested that. Same result.
The Next thing on the list to check was the fuel system. As soon as I got the fuel rails off I could see there may be an issue. The O-ring on the injector was covered in what looked like extremely fine copper shavings. I'm not sure what or where it could have come from but it was there. To test I've swapped the primary and secondary injectors. If that works ill send all the injectors off for cleaning and order a better fuel filter. I havn't been able to test it I just got it back together and the race car is needing prepped for the race this weekend.
I also made a new mount for my vacuum block. I wanted to get it off the exhaust heat shield and above the injectors. This was brought to my attention by a couple club members in this thread so thanks for that again, it could have been a disaster. The exhaust Heat shield is also covered top and bottom by that gold tape.

 

Its back alive!!! Swapping the injectors seems to have worked. so that means for sure my other 2 injectors are clogged. I turned off staged injection and am now only running the 2 ID1050x. It seems to be running better than it ever has and the AFRs closer to the targets and the transient response feels smoother. I'm still cautious about learning to tune on this so I'm waiting to find a tuner I can trust to get a good base tune on it before I start experimenting. Not all good news though. After cruzing around town for about an hour my wideband for my rotor 1 seems to have failed already showing the E8 code (damaged Sensor). its not the one my ECU reads but its very annoying seeing the code on the gauge. so far I've gone through 3 4.9LSU sensors in 800ish miles. If anyone has a better solution please chime in. I cant spend this much replacing sensors every 1000 miles.

 

Well again I didn't feel like spending on a "professional". It's hard to find someone within 250 miles that gives me the confidence to take my car all the way there and have them tune it. Everytime I've call a shop I hear a lot of um's, probably's and maybe's. I just want Yes we can tune your car no problem, So I figured I can guess as good as someone else. Turns out with some research and other help online I got it sorted.
I was having Issues getting the car to decel from 0.2 - 1.0% throttle range while cruseing. the decel function seemed usless in this scenario. Turns out I needed to turn on the zero demand timing map as well as the zero demand fuel map. With those turned on the car started to cruse like a normal car. YAY!! I have the VE table adjusted almost perfect in the crusing areas but now I need to work on the overrun areas and transient throttle settings. At 60%-WOT it seems to run great and AFRs stay around 12-11.8ish all the way up to 7K. Ill get everything below there sorted and move the revv limit up. After the road fuel mapping and transients are sorted I'll rent some Dyno time, tune the timing map dyno tune some of the fuel map I couldn't get on the streets, post the Dyno sheet, and share my tune.

 

I know I'm digging up a thread that's a couple years old, but I'm curious how you made out with this in the end? Hows the final tune? did you get the numbers you were after?

You can't tell this great story and just not give it an ending! hahahaha

 

edit: accidental post on old thread