4-Rotor FC Build
06-24-12, 04:22 PM
#776
Senior Member
How well do they unplug those ingniters and from what motorcycle are those.
For the rest nice build and how does it show now with the bumper?
Ow those lights are upright so if you mod your lights with a plexi, you improved your airflow over the car when the lights are on.
For the rest nice build and how does it show now with the bumper?
Ow those lights are upright so if you mod your lights with a plexi, you improved your airflow over the car when the lights are on.
06-24-12, 04:37 PM
#777
I'll see if I can get a picture of the car tomorrow, but from the outside it looks just the same as before. Badly in need of paint, coilovers and wheels, but I've already got most of that covered.
The coils are from a 00-03 suzuki gsx-r 750. These are pretty much identical to the more commonly known cbr 600 f4i coils. A lot of the motorbike coils will work, but not all of them. Some motorbikes use CDI ignitions or coil on plug coils with an internal igniter. These are dumb coils so they don't have an internal igniter which is fine because my ecu has internal igniters. These coils don't accept a lot of the spark plugs though, only the ones with a small treaded tip can be used, the larger tip's don't fit. Spark plugs with a larger tip can be easily machined to fit though so it's not an issue for me. Normally there really isn't a reason to use these, because a normal FC coil works fine, but with a 4-rotor these coil on plug's take up way less space.
The coils are from a 00-03 suzuki gsx-r 750. These are pretty much identical to the more commonly known cbr 600 f4i coils. A lot of the motorbike coils will work, but not all of them. Some motorbikes use CDI ignitions or coil on plug coils with an internal igniter. These are dumb coils so they don't have an internal igniter which is fine because my ecu has internal igniters. These coils don't accept a lot of the spark plugs though, only the ones with a small treaded tip can be used, the larger tip's don't fit. Spark plugs with a larger tip can be easily machined to fit though so it's not an issue for me. Normally there really isn't a reason to use these, because a normal FC coil works fine, but with a 4-rotor these coil on plug's take up way less space.
06-25-12, 10:08 AM
#779
Rotary Enthusiast
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can't you just unscrew the larger tips from the threads, like i used to do with scooters?
Never checked if thats possible with normal plugs used in cars
Never checked if thats possible with normal plugs used in cars
06-26-12, 02:05 AM
#783
but that will change 
.
E-shaft came back from balancing yesterday
There was a problem though, I calculated the needed counterweight dimensions using the computer, made a new rear counterweight out of billet steel and modified an oem front one. I made them both a bit too heavy, so only a few drilled holes should be needed when balancing. This worked out just as planned for the rear one, but for some reason the modified oem front one was too light. Maybe the computer model was a bit off, or the density of the cast iron is a little bit different from billet steel, but anyway they couldn't use it because there isn't really a good way to increase the weight of the cast iron counterweight. So I grabbed another oem front counterweight, added the offset locating key and mounted it on the e-shaft. Not being machined to a smaller outer diameter this counterweight was way too heavy, but some grinding and drilled holes fixed that. The e-shaft is now balanced to within 1,5 grams.
Picture of the balancing assembly, the counterweight that isn't mounted on the shaft didn't work
Holes that were drilled during balancing
The os giken flywheel and pressure plate were also balanced. The flywheel was about 6 grams off, and the pressue plate was 3 grams off
The balancing assembly disassembled. The e-shaft is now ready to be put into an engine. Just need to do a few more things before the engine can be assembled. Lot's of work left to do on the chassis though, so engine assembly will have to wait a while
Last edited by John Huijben; 06-26-12 at 02:11 AM.
06-29-12, 07:30 AM
#791
Given the amount of thought lavished on all the other details, I'm sure there's a logic I'm not seeing but it would appear that flipping the farside hook and tying a relay bar between them would allow the cable to actuate both catches.
In the greater scheme of things I realize this seems trivial, just curious.
07-01-12, 01:19 AM
#796
07-01-12, 02:25 PM
#797
Read clokker's questions again, he wants to know how the hood actually pops up after using the cable actuated lever in the car. There has to be some sort of spring to lift the hood after using the lever in order to release the hood from the first latch.
07-01-12, 04:28 PM
#798
07-01-12, 04:34 PM
#799
Or hood struts.
Which John probably designed and built himself.
I'm only qualified to marvel at most of the work done in this thread, but the hood latch is more in my wheelhouse and I think it's a curious design, requiring two discrete steps.
I'm sure it wasn't a haphazard decision and was just interested in the logic that's all.
Which John probably designed and built himself.
I'm only qualified to marvel at most of the work done in this thread, but the hood latch is more in my wheelhouse and I think it's a curious design, requiring two discrete steps.
I'm sure it wasn't a haphazard decision and was just interested in the logic that's all.
