j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

what year harness and what year book? FC is like 86-87.5 and then 87.5-88, 89-91

sounds like you may have an 86 book and 88 harness or something, all the stuff is the same, just wire colors are different.

but yeah its not much fun... i'm procrastinating on mine right now

BlackWorksInc

**** you're kidding me? 87.5!?

The lowest Year that SgtFox's site has is an '88 which is what I have been using for my 86 harness... least I think the harness was an '86...

BlackWorksInc

Oh I forgot to ask. J9FD3S, Did you have a sway bar on the front of the car? I realized that my camber is off because someone drilled out the holes some so they could move it around, Made me a little nervous on the integrity of the tower, I assumed the person used a sway bar to take some of the load off...

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

exhaust back pressure

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

The difference between the 86-87.5 and the 88 harness's is that mazda used low impedance injectors on the early NA FC's, which required a resistor pack or some such stupidity in line to turn the high impedance signal from teh ecu to low for the injectors. In the 88 models they kicked the low impedance injectors in favor of the high impedance and did away with the resistor pack.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you mean strut tower bar? yes it did. it also had kmac camber adjusters (which are pretty lame)

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

Paul, looks like you're going to have to get a respeed towerbar

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

all the stuff works the same, they just changed some wire colors.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

here check my thread out i think theres only 1 wire different
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/87t2-em-harness-question-841917/

BlackWorksInc

Hmm.. then something isn't making sense with thew wiring or I mis-counted some wires... cuz some of the circuits that were marked to be removed had some extra wires that "looked" like they should be part of my final product. I say look because After a while I just started marking circuits by where they connected... I'll have to sit down later when I have time and check all the diagrams wire by wire...

I have family from out of country coming in so I dunno how that's gonna be...

BlackWorksInc

So, here's an update on what I've been doing lately...

Basically, I ended up getting 1/3 of the harness all nice and clean and taped up to find out that because the wiring colors changed I had removed circuits I needed... Basically I have been too busy in the time since my last post to actually work on it.

I'm pulling 16 Units this semester and all the fun stuff that goes with it.

BUT! I am gonna get off my lazy *** and try and get the engine at least running by October! So keep on my *** to finish my baby! LOL

BlackWorksInc

Hey guys, just a small update and question concerning something I came across while I was inspecting my car.

I looked at the master cylinder for the brakes and it was rather rusty and crappy inside, would it be better to rebuild it myself or just get a new/rebuilt one?

I'm getting to the point where I'm going to need to go "shopping" for connectors, parts, and pieces for the car since the engine harness is almost done, just need to check grounds, wrap them and add the missing connectors! I'm going to be tearing out the dash and all the wiring in the car to trim that down as well.

Another concern I had was regarding the rust spots the car has, some are going to be easy to just sand down and clean, but others are eating the car alive, my thinking is going to be cutting the cancer out, TIG welding in fresh sheet steel and then sanding it down for the bigger stuff.

But there's some parts where it looks like the rust "bubbled" the metal and paint and I was wondering if it would be worth it to just sand those smooth and primer them rather than cutting them out?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

You could probably rebuild the MC yourself, but you'd have to hone it first, and then measure to make sure you don't end up overspec on the bore. It needs to be smooth to seal right, but small enough that you don't get blowby or pop a seal. Probably less pain to get a rebuilt.

It's one place where saving a couple of bucks doesn't pay for itself; blowing out a MC piston seal when you really need it to be working is not happymaking.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

ordinarily rebuilding the MC isnt a great idea, but if its more dirty than worn out, you might get lucky. i rebuilt the one on my GXL (new one is NLA) and its been fine. i was lucky and the bore is ok.

i have some spots like that on mine, they are actually popping up on the roof and hood, sanding em flat, and painting over seems fine to me?

BlackWorksInc

Oh okay good, I was worried that they might be too bad to just sand down. As for the MC I think I will just end up buying a new one.

I'll get some pictures of the harness when I finish wrapping it.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

i just bought a rebuilt one from carquest... it was pretty cheap

BlackWorksInc

Well here's a little update on what I've been doing wiring wise...

This is what the S4 Engine/Emissions Only Harness looks like:



The box in the background is all the wiring I cut out...
Oh, and good god are our battery cables tiny!

BlackWorksInc

Something else that's come to mind as I piece together a mental wish list for bits and parts I will need...

The lower section of my driver's side dashboard is missing along with the motorized window switch and some panels. Unfortunately Mazdatrix doesn't stock the black interior color anymore for that part. anyone have any suggestions?

Another issue that has come up, not really that detrimental to the project but its still something that I feel is important to mention...

Should I go ahead and clean out/rebuild my steering box before I reroute the lines into themselves?

Takedown

Lookin good man. Sweet build!

BlackWorksInc

So i hit up the Junkyard to collect parts for the Seven in hopes of getting closer to making her run... still no luck on stumbling on a 13B racing header...

But... There were a few cars that hadn't been completely stripped... Got me a Taurus Fan (the right kind this time lol) and...




What ya think?

BlackWorksInc

**** me sideways...

I finally got around to sanding down the rust and such to primer over it with some rustoleum auto primer when I discover that its far worse than I had imagined, parts of the rust ate right through the panels... So it seems I will be cutting and patching after I get her running, and most of the bad rust was caused by dirt plugs in the rear hatch drain...

As for updates? I am making brackets for the S5 Radiator and Taurus Fan I got to fit into the FB, I cleaned out my Oil Cooler, which I must say was the nastiest looking chocolate milkshake I've ever seen!

Other than that I haven't had too much time to get ahead on stuff.

BlackWorksInc

W00T! I got my OMP Adapter from Richard Sohn! I can't wait to get all my parts together! I also made brackets for my S5 Radiator, but unfortunately it just started raining so it's back to doing wiring work and side projects.

PS- Why does it seem that people watch my thread but few ever say anything... makes me feel all lonely like. *Makes sad rotary face*

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

we all love you

BlackWorksInc

Alright guys, I have a logistical problem, the S5 Radiator is rather tall and is restricting the ability for me to mount my oil cooler low... so I was going to angle it parallel to the black lower grill and mount it but then I realized I have one problem... The lines will be too short.

So two problems came up...

1.) Who makes longer oil cooler lines for a reasonable price?

2.) How do I calculate the added amount of oil volume that this will require?

bshusted

iTrader: (1)

Any shop that does hydraulic hoses should be able to make up new lines for you. I think trochoid did a writeup on what size hose and crimp fittings to use. Of course the other rout is to go with -an fittings/hose.

Depending on the length added, the additional volume will be minimal. If you really want to know, just use the formula for the volume of a cylinder (pi*r^2*h).