LtColButters702

Hey twinkletoes were did you get your drive shaft and exhaust done?? Im doing this swap in Vegas as well! I am just waiting for the engine to come in so I can get all the measurements or if you know of anyone who you can recommend me to? Thanks!!

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

if you get rid of the white paint under the hood and go with rhino lining i will cry.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Nice. I need a C rotor. I might just buy a set though and sell my good single rotor. Let me know letter you have. I checked on the mazdatrix website. Says the oldschool 13b weigh the same. They have 9.2 compression instead of 9.4 compression like GSL-SE though. I dont know if the oldschool 13b rotors are 3mm either.

pm sent!

Sent you another pm!

Lol i'm set on white. I just hope I can find the right color to match. I'm going to probably do a thick stage 1 paint that I can shoot with a gun. I can borrow a compressor and paint gun. I just need prep supplies, paint, clear.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

As far as the rotor weights, they can be up to 2 letters difference according to Mazda rebuild specs. I personally have never built an engine with 2 letters difference, but I have built quite a few with 1 letter difference.

If I remember correctly, the old school 13b rotors were 3mm apex seals.

I'm still telling ya, go with S4 NA rotating assembly. Easier to find and cheaper too.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Good to know about the rotor weights. Thought they had to match.

I just found a set of GSLSE rotors that I dont want to pass up on. The only difference I saw with S4 N/A rotors is 2mm and a little more than a pound lighter than the 3mm GSLSE rotors. Is there that much of a difference I would notice? My tuner says I'll be fine with either for a goal of 350whp.

pogi1

iTrader: (8)

sup man! its marvin the guy that sold u those housings haha. i see you cleaned up the flaking paint on em . Your cars pretty damnn clean dooode mad propps..cant wait to see the new build! what u think caused the old motor to blow though.. tuning/timing issue?

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

The compression of the GSL-SE and the S4 NA rotors are the same, so horse power goals should be the same. BUT, did you notice my last dyno? I damn near matched torque for horsepower. I have played around with different combinations to try and get the torque up as close as possible to the horsepower. So that's why I have been sticking with the S4 NA rotors.

One of my buds is putting together a S5 9.7 rotation in a TII bridgport combo with a .62 hotside antisurge GT35R. We are hoping to get right at the 350 rwhp mark at just 15psi. I always hear everyone talking about horsepower numbers, but nobody seems to brag about the torque numbers...........

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Marvin! Whatsup man!? Good to hear from you! Yeah, I got home and cleaned them up first thing lol. Thanks man! I appreciate it! Old motor definitely had timing issue. I'm going to buy a new set of hub/main pulley to know for a fact thats the same. Then planning on having it tuned by Karack on here. Should last awhile with that said

Thanks again for the housings! Just painted them a few days ago!

I do remember your torque being very high! You're right. Noone really does talk about the torque. I love the torque too. And it makes me happier looking at your dyno now. Your going to be proud Sam! I got S4 NA rotors

Just leaves basic overhaul kit and apex seals left to get this built!

Bearzah

iTrader: (6)

Good luck with fix... I'd love to know another turbo FB is on the road!!! BRAAAPPPP

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

I hear ya. Just grab you a set of RA Super Seals and Viton coolant seals and your rockin. Something you should really consider is opening up the intake ports in that center iron. You are loosing a lot of intake velocity with those small ports. Also, running the 6 port irons you cant run a really big exhaust port to take advantage of the 9.4 compression.

I always port match the center iron with the front and rear iron intake ports just like the 12A and older rotary engines.







If you think those housings are street-ported, I hate to think what you would say about my street-ports.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Thank you! I plan to have her going around new year.

Those look great! I plan on the teflon coolant seals and RA super seals! When the money comes in i'll be getting them.

I was looking at my housings the other day and thinking those arent streetported lol. They've been cleaned up. Thats all I think. Yours are ported! My buddy swears by going 6 port will help with intake velocity. We'll see what I go with soon.

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

bad 83, why do you port the bottom part downward past the bottom edge of the intake runner?


twinkletoes, i used ra super seals and had a bad experience with them....one of them actually broke and the other two bent....i hope you have better luck!!
(i havent got that motor yet, but the guy has it out of the car already. he's just trying to get someone with a truck to bring it over so i can pick it up from him. the guy iin cd. juarez, mexico.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Hopefully I have a better experience using them! Bummer man! I'm gonna rebuild forsure now. I'm already so close to getting it back going!

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

I went blue.... It's darker in person a little bit. Ford blue engine enamel.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

I think it will set off nicely with the white engine bay. I can always change the colors on the manifolds and compressor housing if I want..

nuimpykid

iTrader: (7)

I think the blue will look very good in there... Just my personal opinion.. Maybe im a little biased, meh looks good!

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Thanks man. This is nuimpykids engine bay. He let me use the pic to give an idea of what I hope mine will come out to look like. I'll just have polished intercooler pipes instead basically with blue front cover.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

These are FC irons.the center iron ports are way smaller than the front and rear irons. Both 4 port and 6 port irons. I just make the port timing opening the same in the center iron as the other irons, just like ALL 4 port irons used to be before fuel injection.

I have found that this equalizes the port velocity between the 4 intake ports. I have also found the FD upper intake (doing away with the stupid Dynamic Chamber crap) helps smooth the intake flow also increasing port velocity.

Lets face it. Most of us are building street cars. We want the power AND TORQUE as low in the rpm range as possible. This helps the longevity of the engine by not having to turn very high rpms to make the HP. That is the main reason I run my turbos with the smallest possible AR hotsides.

What good is it to make 300+ HP if it only makes it at 5k rpms and up? My car hits full boost between 2800 and 3200 rpms This also helps bring those torque numbers up.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

twinkletoes, I hope you don't mind me posting this vid here.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlGFcg7gPJM



BTW, that was all second gear with my rev limiter set at 6500 rpms

Boriquaguerrero

iTrader: (18)

yeap mine does it too no more 9500 rpm shifting for me even in third gear my car goes sideways!!! QUOTE=bad 83;10867968]twinkletoes, I hope you don't mind me posting this vid here.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlGFcg7gPJM



BTW, that was all second gear with my rev limiter set at 6500 rpms [/QUOTE]

garyc

I've been scrolling your build nice I know how much work goes in as I'm busy with my first turbo build on my 1981 IMSA bodied rx7.
My set up engine mild porting
Injectors primary Bosch 750cc secondary 1650cc Bosch ev1 rails home made.
Turbo Garrett t04 twin scroll
Downpipe home made food grade 316 stainless ceramic coated exhaust housing custom cast ceramic coated as well as turbo exhaust housing. Waste gate turbo smart 60 pro.
Intake k&n filter
Turbo smart 50mm pro bov
Radiator custom with step
Inter cooler custom made
Thermostat housing handmade billet Aluminium marine grade still lots to do fuel pumps dual Bosch tank must still be modified to gravity feed. Battery to go to behind rear seats.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

No worries. I dont mind at all! Sam, are you running aux injection on your car? How often do you drive it too?

I've found a few guys running my turbo or very similar and all are gettting around 350whp at around 15 psi. Sometimes more or less on the power numbers.

This is making me want to do 14 psi to get closer to my goal of 350whp, but I drive my car all the time(isnt daily driver). Probably 5 days out of the week. Beating on it everytime I take it out. What's everyones thoughts on 14 psi without aux injection beating on it? I cant decide and running 12 psi and being down on some power, getting more traction, and a little safer to the motor sounds good, but so does 14psi at 350whp if I did it lol. I think I can get close to 320whp at 12psi with my upcoming setup.

Sounds like I need a boost controller. Anybody know some good ones?

Damn in third huh? Part of this is why Im wondering if my goal for 350whp will be too much. With my oldsetup I could only break loose in 1st and 2nd. What is everyone running for rear tire sizes and tires on their turbo cars? I have cheap falken ziex 225/50/15 which fill the fenders perfect and are a little ballooned on my 15x7s which give the sidewall a little give to grab. Nice combo for looks and traction off the line.

Sounds like a good build! Got a thread we can follow?

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

I am running 550 primarys and 720 secondarys. The key is your fuel pressure regulator. The reason most second gen and third gen guys run such big secondarys is because they do not upgrade their FPR. I can up my fuel pressure and run mid 10 afrs at 15 psi.

I tuned my buddys 13BRE first gen running a Haltech E6K with 550 primarys and 820 secondarys. He made 520 at 20psi at the rear wheels running mid 12 AFRs.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Interesting. I'm still using the factory TII fuel rails/fpr. So, the Aeromotive FPR I just sold could have been used and I could've stayed with my 480 primaries, 1000 secondaries if I wanted? lol

Damn good numbers!