My 83 GSL
08-21-11, 07:25 PM
#151
Turns out the smoke is blue. So now i'm burning oil. And this makes me think my turbo is dumping oil in downpipe again...??? Anybody have input on why i'm leaking oil in the downpipe???? Too rich of premix??? I run 1 oz per gallon..
I have no clue on this car. First time driving in the day to see actual smoke color.
Idle afrs are around 12.2-12.9
Hopefully my friend will be in town tomorrow to tune it right...
I have no clue on this car. First time driving in the day to see actual smoke color.
Idle afrs are around 12.2-12.9
Hopefully my friend will be in town tomorrow to tune it right...
08-21-11, 10:38 PM
#155
rotorican85
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my engine just went this friday..this will be my 8th...i would never even think of doing the swap to a v....hurts to just say it....
here's the videos on the throttle body that didnt post...maybe this will help...
08-22-11, 03:09 AM
#156
I'm sure once i'm boosting properly all the problems I had will be worth going through.
Those videos did bring a smile
. Love the car man!! Thanks for sharing!!You guys think oil in downpipe would screw with the afrs on the w/b guage at all possibly giving misleading read/tune??
08-22-11, 07:04 PM
#157
turbos are easy stuff, just stick with it!
I started mine up for the first time the other night, seemed to have the timing somewhere close. My throttle cable was too tight and when the motor fired up it went straight to 3-4k rpms so i shut it down immediately to find my oil feed line had a crack in it and was leaking oil all on the hotside of the turbo. Luckily dodged a major fire
I started mine up for the first time the other night, seemed to have the timing somewhere close. My throttle cable was too tight and when the motor fired up it went straight to 3-4k rpms so i shut it down immediately to find my oil feed line had a crack in it and was leaking oil all on the hotside of the turbo. Luckily dodged a major fire
08-22-11, 09:49 PM
#159
I've been at this turbo rotary game for about 4 years now. I'm constantly learning and becoming better at understanding how to make these things live while making good power. There's a lot of info out there -- both good and bad. The more you learn, the easier it is to segregate them.
Keep at it, and you'll really learn to love the setup. I just went riding with my friend who owns a Shelby AC Cobr replica. Even though his car has about 500 RWHP, he was genuinely impressed with the smooth, wide power band in my car. The best part is telling people that the engine is only 1.3L.
If you get it right, a turbo rotary is very special.
Keep at it, and you'll really learn to love the setup. I just went riding with my friend who owns a Shelby AC Cobr replica. Even though his car has about 500 RWHP, he was genuinely impressed with the smooth, wide power band in my car. The best part is telling people that the engine is only 1.3L.
If you get it right, a turbo rotary is very special.
08-22-11, 10:00 PM
#160
turbos are easy stuff, just stick with it!
I started mine up for the first time the other night, seemed to have the timing somewhere close. My throttle cable was too tight and when the motor fired up it went straight to 3-4k rpms so i shut it down immediately to find my oil feed line had a crack in it and was leaking oil all on the hotside of the turbo. Luckily dodged a major fire
I started mine up for the first time the other night, seemed to have the timing somewhere close. My throttle cable was too tight and when the motor fired up it went straight to 3-4k rpms so i shut it down immediately to find my oil feed line had a crack in it and was leaking oil all on the hotside of the turbo. Luckily dodged a major fire
Glad to here it started! Get a fire exstinguisher! Just in case.
I've been at this turbo rotary game for about 4 years now. I'm constantly learning and becoming better at understanding how to make these things live while making good power. There's a lot of info out there -- both good and bad. The more you learn, the easier it is to segregate them.
Keep at it, and you'll really learn to love the setup. I just went riding with my friend who owns a Shelby AC Cobr replica. Even though his car has about 500 RWHP, he was genuinely impressed with the smooth, wide power band in my car. The best part is telling people that the engine is only 1.3L.
If you get it right, a turbo rotary is very special.
Keep at it, and you'll really learn to love the setup. I just went riding with my friend who owns a Shelby AC Cobr replica. Even though his car has about 500 RWHP, he was genuinely impressed with the smooth, wide power band in my car. The best part is telling people that the engine is only 1.3L.
If you get it right, a turbo rotary is very special.
08-23-11, 12:11 AM
#162
So, I uploaded a base map for a S4 on my haltech. I've been using it for awhile. I used some other map for a few days and went back to the S4 map cause my car ran best with it in boost and everywhere else. Smoothness and all!!!
I have car at tdc for timing. In my haltech timing is locked at -5 and 15 though... which is weird cause the car runs flawless, no pinging, nothing!!!!
I took video that i'm waiting for to upload (had gopro on 1080p, long upload). I can pull 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th at 8 psi no problems with 11.5 afrs in boost.
My idle is back to 11.5-7 afrs with this map and my car still smokes but it HAULS ***!!!!
I'm thinking the car just needs idle leaned out and new turbo oil seals and i'm pretty much good. I think the turbo is still bad cause car smokes not only at idle and I have to keep adding oil to the motor cause it goes low on dipstick... I didn't have a chance to take the turbo to get tested today cause I was too busy, but plan to tomorrow.
Video shortly..
I have car at tdc for timing. In my haltech timing is locked at -5 and 15 though... which is weird cause the car runs flawless, no pinging, nothing!!!!
I took video that i'm waiting for to upload (had gopro on 1080p, long upload). I can pull 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th at 8 psi no problems with 11.5 afrs in boost.
My idle is back to 11.5-7 afrs with this map and my car still smokes but it HAULS ***!!!!
I'm thinking the car just needs idle leaned out and new turbo oil seals and i'm pretty much good. I think the turbo is still bad cause car smokes not only at idle and I have to keep adding oil to the motor cause it goes low on dipstick... I didn't have a chance to take the turbo to get tested today cause I was too busy, but plan to tomorrow.
Video shortly..
I'm using 2nd gen coils..
08-23-11, 09:12 PM
#169
Cool deal!!^^ Thank you!
Spoke with some people including Bryan from BNR supercars about my possible turbo problem. I described the situation to Bryan and he said it sounds like my oil seals failed. Or my crankcase ventilation is bad.
I had two people say this about the crankcase ventilation. What are you all with boosted motors doing for crankcase ventilation??? You got the one nipple on the filler neck, and the other on the middle iron. I have both open to the atmoshpere.. How i've always had it for 4 years with no issues. Bryan said I need vaccum lines from those nipples to the front of the turbo for constant vacuum.
Turbo guys, whats your setup on that??? Thanks all.
Spoke with some people including Bryan from BNR supercars about my possible turbo problem. I described the situation to Bryan and he said it sounds like my oil seals failed. Or my crankcase ventilation is bad.
I had two people say this about the crankcase ventilation. What are you all with boosted motors doing for crankcase ventilation??? You got the one nipple on the filler neck, and the other on the middle iron. I have both open to the atmoshpere.. How i've always had it for 4 years with no issues. Bryan said I need vaccum lines from those nipples to the front of the turbo for constant vacuum.
Turbo guys, whats your setup on that??? Thanks all.
08-24-11, 01:28 AM
#171
Doesn't suck
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Well that answers that. Though I will say may car idling at ~12.0 with premix smoked pretty good. And if you've ever been around muscle cars, they smoke at idle from being rich.
As for crank ventilation, there are a few opinions on this. BNR's idea is good but will put goo in your intake system. Many people just run the crankcase to a catch can which is vented to the atmosphere. The reasoning is that a turbo car pressurizes the crankcase enough to not NEED vacuum (though it is always a good thing) and it will push the crap out so it can collect on the catch can and vent out as needed.
Personally I think the HOT ticket is this: weld a scavenger bung in the exhaust http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...aeea31e9b40767
<they can be found cheaper, but that was just a 5 minute google. The line should have a check valve to prevent exhaust going up the line.
This line is connected to a SEALED catch can. The bottom of the catch can drains into the oil pan (optional). The can is fed by two lines from the crank case, one from the right, and one from the left of the engine.
Exhaust going by the bung will provide a slight vacuum on the crankcase, and all the crud goes out the pipe with the rest of the exhaust. This is all good unless you are worried about emissions. The two sides are important because you want to ensure at least one port is vented to the catch can at all times, other wise if you do some aggressive cornering oil slosh can cover up the one hole, and you'll dump oil in your exhaust. <This goes for any setup however, vented to air, intake, or exhaust. Racers have found venting the right and left side cuts down dramatically on what winds up in your catch can.
As for crank ventilation, there are a few opinions on this. BNR's idea is good but will put goo in your intake system. Many people just run the crankcase to a catch can which is vented to the atmosphere. The reasoning is that a turbo car pressurizes the crankcase enough to not NEED vacuum (though it is always a good thing) and it will push the crap out so it can collect on the catch can and vent out as needed.
Personally I think the HOT ticket is this: weld a scavenger bung in the exhaust http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...aeea31e9b40767
<they can be found cheaper, but that was just a 5 minute google. The line should have a check valve to prevent exhaust going up the line.
This line is connected to a SEALED catch can. The bottom of the catch can drains into the oil pan (optional). The can is fed by two lines from the crank case, one from the right, and one from the left of the engine.
Exhaust going by the bung will provide a slight vacuum on the crankcase, and all the crud goes out the pipe with the rest of the exhaust. This is all good unless you are worried about emissions. The two sides are important because you want to ensure at least one port is vented to the catch can at all times, other wise if you do some aggressive cornering oil slosh can cover up the one hole, and you'll dump oil in your exhaust. <This goes for any setup however, vented to air, intake, or exhaust. Racers have found venting the right and left side cuts down dramatically on what winds up in your catch can.
08-24-11, 04:43 PM
#172
. . . BNR's idea is good but will put goo in your intake system. Many people just run the crankcase to a catch can which is vented to the atmosphere. The reasoning is that a turbo car pressurizes the crankcase enough to not NEED vacuum (though it is always a good thing) and it will push the crap out so it can collect on the catch can and vent out as needed.
Personally I think the HOT ticket is this: weld a scavenger bung in the exhaust http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...aeea31e9b40767
<they can be found cheaper, but that was just a 5 minute google. The line should have a check valve to prevent exhaust going up the line.
This line is connected to a SEALED catch can. The bottom of the catch can drains into the oil pan (optional). The can is fed by two lines from the crank case, one from the right, and one from the left of the engine.
Exhaust going by the bung will provide a slight vacuum on the crankcase, and all the crud goes out the pipe with the rest of the exhaust. This is all good unless you are worried about emissions. The two sides are important because you want to ensure at least one port is vented to the catch can at all times, other wise if you do some aggressive cornering oil slosh can cover up the one hole, and you'll dump oil in your exhaust. <This goes for any setup however, vented to air, intake, or exhaust. Racers have found venting the right and left side cuts down dramatically on what winds up in your catch can.
Personally I think the HOT ticket is this: weld a scavenger bung in the exhaust http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...aeea31e9b40767
<they can be found cheaper, but that was just a 5 minute google. The line should have a check valve to prevent exhaust going up the line.
This line is connected to a SEALED catch can. The bottom of the catch can drains into the oil pan (optional). The can is fed by two lines from the crank case, one from the right, and one from the left of the engine.
Exhaust going by the bung will provide a slight vacuum on the crankcase, and all the crud goes out the pipe with the rest of the exhaust. This is all good unless you are worried about emissions. The two sides are important because you want to ensure at least one port is vented to the catch can at all times, other wise if you do some aggressive cornering oil slosh can cover up the one hole, and you'll dump oil in your exhaust. <This goes for any setup however, vented to air, intake, or exhaust. Racers have found venting the right and left side cuts down dramatically on what winds up in your catch can.
My first attempt at solving the problem was a serpentine and baffled oil fill, which can be seen tucked behind the intake manifold. It helped, but I still got a lot of blowby at boost. It used to be that the qty of blowby oil was proportional to the oil level -- once it dropped below the midpoint on the hash marks, blowby all but disappeared. With this new setup, I'm holding steady oil level, even when it's at the full mark, which is a big improvement.
Concerning the exhaust scavenge: One concern of mine would be how to plumb this without frying the hoses. I was considering using flexible stainless line, like the stuff used for natural gas supply.
Another point is that based on a few Honda forum tests and my conversation with Moroso tech support, the check valve isn't really necessary. They were able to achieve a vacuum across all operating conditions when the tube was installed at the recommended 45 deg angle.
Lastly, my passenger side port is covered right now. If I have an issue going forward, I'll plumb that into the separator too.
08-24-11, 05:18 PM
#173
rotorican85
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I got a turbonetics 62-1 Sitting on my shelf. It needs a rebuild since it has minimal play. All housings are good and wheels are good. It has a .81a/r hotside.....im just saying....lol
08-24-11, 07:18 PM
#174
Well that answers that. Though I will say may car idling at ~12.0 with premix smoked pretty good. And if you've ever been around muscle cars, they smoke at idle from being rich.
As for crank ventilation, there are a few opinions on this. BNR's idea is good but will put goo in your intake system. Many people just run the crankcase to a catch can which is vented to the atmosphere. The reasoning is that a turbo car pressurizes the crankcase enough to not NEED vacuum (though it is always a good thing) and it will push the crap out so it can collect on the catch can and vent out as needed.
Personally I think the HOT ticket is this: weld a scavenger bung in the exhaust http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...aeea31e9b40767
<they can be found cheaper, but that was just a 5 minute google. The line should have a check valve to prevent exhaust going up the line.
This line is connected to a SEALED catch can. The bottom of the catch can drains into the oil pan (optional). The can is fed by two lines from the crank case, one from the right, and one from the left of the engine.
Exhaust going by the bung will provide a slight vacuum on the crankcase, and all the crud goes out the pipe with the rest of the exhaust. This is all good unless you are worried about emissions. The two sides are important because you want to ensure at least one port is vented to the catch can at all times, other wise if you do some aggressive cornering oil slosh can cover up the one hole, and you'll dump oil in your exhaust. <This goes for any setup however, vented to air, intake, or exhaust. Racers have found venting the right and left side cuts down dramatically on what winds up in your catch can.
As for crank ventilation, there are a few opinions on this. BNR's idea is good but will put goo in your intake system. Many people just run the crankcase to a catch can which is vented to the atmosphere. The reasoning is that a turbo car pressurizes the crankcase enough to not NEED vacuum (though it is always a good thing) and it will push the crap out so it can collect on the catch can and vent out as needed.
Personally I think the HOT ticket is this: weld a scavenger bung in the exhaust http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...aeea31e9b40767
<they can be found cheaper, but that was just a 5 minute google. The line should have a check valve to prevent exhaust going up the line.
This line is connected to a SEALED catch can. The bottom of the catch can drains into the oil pan (optional). The can is fed by two lines from the crank case, one from the right, and one from the left of the engine.
Exhaust going by the bung will provide a slight vacuum on the crankcase, and all the crud goes out the pipe with the rest of the exhaust. This is all good unless you are worried about emissions. The two sides are important because you want to ensure at least one port is vented to the catch can at all times, other wise if you do some aggressive cornering oil slosh can cover up the one hole, and you'll dump oil in your exhaust. <This goes for any setup however, vented to air, intake, or exhaust. Racers have found venting the right and left side cuts down dramatically on what winds up in your catch can.
Yeah, I'd rather not goo or nasty up the intake. That bung scavenger sounds legit!! I would like to do something like that. I've talked to some turbo guys here and my buddy has actually been running those two nipples on iron and filler neck open as I have to atmosphere for 5 years no problem boosting 12 plus pounds. I'm not going to worry about it for now. I always check my oil so its not a big deal if i'm just losing a bit of oil.
Awesome information!! Thank you!
This is definitely a good way to go. I used a Saikou Michi air/oil separator and followed half the rules listed above. I set mine up so the blow-by oil drains back into the engine at the rear. I didn't use the exhaust scavenge setup, but I may add it later. Mine dumps down to atmosphere for now, like the "road tubes" on '60s cars. I don't get much blowby air at idle, and there's so much airflow when I'm at boost that it hasn't mattered so far.
My first attempt at solving the problem was a serpentine and baffled oil fill, which can be seen tucked behind the intake manifold. It helped, but I still got a lot of blowby at boost. It used to be that the qty of blowby oil was proportional to the oil level -- once it dropped below the midpoint on the hash marks, blowby all but disappeared. With this new setup, I'm holding steady oil level, even when it's at the full mark, which is a big improvement.
Concerning the exhaust scavenge: One concern of mine would be how to plumb this without frying the hoses. I was considering using flexible stainless line, like the stuff used for natural gas supply.
Another point is that based on a few Honda forum tests and my conversation with Moroso tech support, the check valve isn't really necessary. They were able to achieve a vacuum across all operating conditions when the tube was installed at the recommended 45 deg angle.
Lastly, my passenger side port is covered right now. If I have an issue going forward, I'll plumb that into the separator too.
My first attempt at solving the problem was a serpentine and baffled oil fill, which can be seen tucked behind the intake manifold. It helped, but I still got a lot of blowby at boost. It used to be that the qty of blowby oil was proportional to the oil level -- once it dropped below the midpoint on the hash marks, blowby all but disappeared. With this new setup, I'm holding steady oil level, even when it's at the full mark, which is a big improvement.
Concerning the exhaust scavenge: One concern of mine would be how to plumb this without frying the hoses. I was considering using flexible stainless line, like the stuff used for natural gas supply.
Another point is that based on a few Honda forum tests and my conversation with Moroso tech support, the check valve isn't really necessary. They were able to achieve a vacuum across all operating conditions when the tube was installed at the recommended 45 deg angle.
Lastly, my passenger side port is covered right now. If I have an issue going forward, I'll plumb that into the separator too.
Looks very nice though! Thanks for the input!!
Haha. Twin scroll?? I'm having him rebuild the turbo cuase its warrantied.
08-24-11, 08:21 PM
#175
On the 13B-RE, there's an oil return hole at the bottom of the rear iron. If you look at the 3rd picture, you can see it (sort of). This didn't really cost me much money because I already had the aluminum and the fittings. I do all the fab work, and I have a friend who welds for beer. It did take some time, though.