My 83 GSL
10-25-11, 10:36 PM
#202
Very nice^^^^
Maybe I spoke too soon lol... Not gonna lie I have been thinking going with a different motor...
not sure though. I just want to jump in my car, turn the key, and pound on it without wondering will it blow up?..
I'm using a megan manifold. It was only around 150 I think. It really is nearly 3mm thick piping which is great. Hasnt cracked on me. If it does, i'll weld it, dont matter for me... Only thing is its meant for hks style 50mm wastegate. It would be easy to cut off and weld on v band though..
I would like to do coolingmist. I need to do it for more insurance on next motor.
Damn! Didn't know you were running 20 psi on mazda seals. I was thinking of going with some RA super seals but might be overkill for only 12-18 psi boost.
Maybe I spoke too soon lol... Not gonna lie I have been thinking going with a different motor...
not sure though. I just want to jump in my car, turn the key, and pound on it without wondering will it blow up?.. Two things, and that way it won't seem too much like a highjacking...
1) Are you all running off-the-shelf exhaust manifolds? I would love to just buy one and forego a custom setup, but I don't know what models fit our cars. I have a mocked-up manifold ready to ship for a custom model, but I'll forego this if an off-the-shelf T4, divided, w/ v-band for my wastegate is something I can buy!
2) Water injection.
The car looks amazing.
1) Are you all running off-the-shelf exhaust manifolds? I would love to just buy one and forego a custom setup, but I don't know what models fit our cars. I have a mocked-up manifold ready to ship for a custom model, but I'll forego this if an off-the-shelf T4, divided, w/ v-band for my wastegate is something I can buy!
2) Water injection.
The car looks amazing.
I would like to do coolingmist. I need to do it for more insurance on next motor.
Something is REALLY off you you are detonating and having
such a catastrophic failure at only 12 PSI.
When you put it back together, make sure you re-tune it,
check your AFRs with a wideband, make sure you are not losing
fuel pressure either. Something is off in your combination.
Fuel/Air/Timing or Spark.
At such low boost - I would run stock Mazda seals too.
Hell, that's what I run at 20 PSI, LOL.
such a catastrophic failure at only 12 PSI.
When you put it back together, make sure you re-tune it,
check your AFRs with a wideband, make sure you are not losing
fuel pressure either. Something is off in your combination.
Fuel/Air/Timing or Spark.
At such low boost - I would run stock Mazda seals too.
Hell, that's what I run at 20 PSI, LOL.
10-27-11, 05:43 AM
#204
Would like to see your build unfold^. Make a thread!
Got some work done yesterday pulling the motor. Just waiting on a air gun to get the flywheel nut off then going to tear it apart. Trying to source some TII irons, housings, and probably gslse rotors. I took a look further in the rear rotor exhasut side. 2 seals are missing(well one broken, not totally gone).
Getting ready to lift up and out of car.
Its out!
Saw this after taking off oil pan. Not sure how it got there. Looks like a dent from the inside of the housing pushed out from the seal maybe?? Havent broken it apart yet so dont know. Nothing like this bump on the front housing from the bottom..
Sitting on the desk, ready to be taken apart.
I had my 3" exhaust finished a few days before I blew it up. Only got to enjoy it for a few days. I'll upload the video I made of finished exhaust if it doesn't take forever to upload.
Got some work done yesterday pulling the motor. Just waiting on a air gun to get the flywheel nut off then going to tear it apart. Trying to source some TII irons, housings, and probably gslse rotors. I took a look further in the rear rotor exhasut side. 2 seals are missing(well one broken, not totally gone).
Getting ready to lift up and out of car.
Its out!
Saw this after taking off oil pan. Not sure how it got there. Looks like a dent from the inside of the housing pushed out from the seal maybe?? Havent broken it apart yet so dont know. Nothing like this bump on the front housing from the bottom..
Sitting on the desk, ready to be taken apart.
I had my 3" exhaust finished a few days before I blew it up. Only got to enjoy it for a few days. I'll upload the video I made of finished exhaust if it doesn't take forever to upload.
10-28-11, 06:21 AM
#206
Got the main pulley hub bolt out finally.. took the motor and put on ground. Had my friend hold it. Had a ratchet wrench in the rear iron in between the flywheel and it to stop from rotating. Came loose with a 4 foot long breaker bar lol.
Onto the pics. Did some destruction forsure! Check it out!
Tension bolts out.
Rear iron
Coolant passages were pretty nasty
Bad housing
Two bad apex seals on rear rotor. Part of this one was there. Other apex seal was gone... My turbo is totally fine though.
Onto the pics. Did some destruction forsure! Check it out!
Tension bolts out.
Rear iron
Coolant passages were pretty nasty
Bad housing
Two bad apex seals on rear rotor. Part of this one was there. Other apex seal was gone... My turbo is totally fine though.
10-29-11, 01:02 AM
#208
rotary sensei
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One of the best looking white first gens I've seen...Sorry to see the problems you are having. Make sure you flush your oil cooler lines and if I would have your oil cooler professionally flushed. Go to an aviation shop not a radiator shop.
I would suggest using NRS ceramic seals if you can afford it, if not go with stock OEM seals.
Lastly you need to figure out why your set up grenaded.
I would suggest using NRS ceramic seals if you can afford it, if not go with stock OEM seals.
Lastly you need to figure out why your set up grenaded.
10-29-11, 01:45 AM
#209
One of the best looking white first gens I've seen...Sorry to see the problems you are having. Make sure you flush your oil cooler lines and if I would have your oil cooler professionally flushed. Go to an aviation shop not a radiator shop.
I would suggest using NRS ceramic seals if you can afford it, if not go with stock OEM seals.
Lastly you need to figure out why your set up grenaded.
I would suggest using NRS ceramic seals if you can afford it, if not go with stock OEM seals.
Lastly you need to figure out why your set up grenaded.
I'll have TII streetport housings tomorrow, maybe irons too..
Need rotor rebuild kits, rear gslse matching rotor, soft seals kit.
Believe the motor went cause of timing. I could never figure it out.. Should have had it tuned. This next build is going on dyno and tune after breakin.
10-29-11, 02:28 PM
#210
rotary sensei
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Thanks. I am too.. Damn. I take it its a possiblity seals go in there sometimes huh? I looked up NRS seals but couldnt find prices? I bet out of my range. Stock seals are going for 500+?? I was planning on RA classics or RA super seals. That's what I can afford. I'm trying to get it back up before november ends..
I'll have TII streetport housings tomorrow, maybe irons too..
Need rotor rebuild kits, rear gslse matching rotor, soft seals kit.
Believe the motor went cause of timing. I could never figure it out.. Should have had it tuned. This next build is going on dyno and tune after breakin.
I'll have TII streetport housings tomorrow, maybe irons too..
Need rotor rebuild kits, rear gslse matching rotor, soft seals kit.
Believe the motor went cause of timing. I could never figure it out.. Should have had it tuned. This next build is going on dyno and tune after breakin.
http://www.nrsrotorsports.com/
11-02-11, 08:59 PM
#211
I found the site searching for the NRS seals. Couldnt find prices though. I'll give them a call. Thank you^^
Picked up some streetported S5 TII housings from a guy I met at sevenstock. I cleaned them up with a wirebrush wheel real quick as the old silver paint on them was horrible. Got to paint them now. Thinking of paint schemes for my motor. Not sure yet on what colors. Heres some pics of the housings.
Still searching for irons and a GSL-SE rear matching rotor..
Picked up some streetported S5 TII housings from a guy I met at sevenstock. I cleaned them up with a wirebrush wheel real quick as the old silver paint on them was horrible. Got to paint them now. Thinking of paint schemes for my motor. Not sure yet on what colors. Heres some pics of the housings.
Still searching for irons and a GSL-SE rear matching rotor..
11-02-11, 09:24 PM
#212
rotorican85
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I had my rotor housings "resurfaced" by goopy peformance after one of my super seals broke and flew thru there. The other two warped. Housings came back looking new and my idle vacuum is 17hg. Compression on them is awesome. Dont throw out the Old ones just yet!!
I still got those irons and i am picking up a TII motor this sunday. Complete with a T04. Guy pulled a perfect motor to go V8...if you want a complete running motor lemme know!!!
I still got those irons and i am picking up a TII motor this sunday. Complete with a T04. Guy pulled a perfect motor to go V8...if you want a complete running motor lemme know!!!
11-02-11, 10:16 PM
#213
I had my rotor housings "resurfaced" by goopy peformance after one of my super seals broke and flew thru there. The other two warped. Housings came back looking new and my idle vacuum is 17hg. Compression on them is awesome. Dont throw out the Old ones just yet!!
I still got those irons and i am picking up a TII motor this sunday. Complete with a T04. Guy pulled a perfect motor to go V8...if you want a complete running motor lemme know!!!
I still got those irons and i am picking up a TII motor this sunday. Complete with a T04. Guy pulled a perfect motor to go V8...if you want a complete running motor lemme know!!!
I had a GSL-SE block. I want a TII block this time. The coolant seals go in the housings on the GSL-SE instead of the later 86 and on 13b motors where the coolant seals are in the irons. Hmm..
I would like a new rebuilt motor at this point to know everything about it and the insides. pm sent though.
11-03-11, 09:47 AM
#214
13b P-port on a budget
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Man its been awhile since I have been on here and its great to see some of this. I really really really need another 7 in my life. Very very good work man.
11-03-11, 03:23 PM
#215
Dude! I hate to hear the motor went. The "crud" in the housings is Stop Leak. The detonation did not come from AFRs. That was timing. Don't worry about sourcing a set of GSL-SE rotors. The front and rear counter weights are different. Pick you up a set of S4 N/A rotors. They are the same front and rear counter weights of the S4 TII. Get a set of RA supers and rock on.
FWI Just so you know. The S5 housings spark plug timing locations are different then a S4. S4 TII spark plug timing is 5 leading 20 trailing. S5 spark plug timing is 0 leading and 20 trailing. Lay a S5 housing on top of a S4 housing and you can see the dufference.
FWI Just so you know. The S5 housings spark plug timing locations are different then a S4. S4 TII spark plug timing is 5 leading 20 trailing. S5 spark plug timing is 0 leading and 20 trailing. Lay a S5 housing on top of a S4 housing and you can see the dufference.
11-04-11, 01:43 AM
#216
Dude! I hate to hear the motor went. The "crud" in the housings is Stop Leak. The detonation did not come from AFRs. That was timing. Don't worry about sourcing a set of GSL-SE rotors. The front and rear counter weights are different. Pick you up a set of S4 N/A rotors. They are the same front and rear counter weights of the S4 TII. Get a set of RA supers and rock on.
FWI Just so you know. The S5 housings spark plug timing locations are different then a S4. S4 TII spark plug timing is 5 leading 20 trailing. S5 spark plug timing is 0 leading and 20 trailing. Lay a S5 housing on top of a S4 housing and you can see the dufference.
FWI Just so you know. The S5 housings spark plug timing locations are different then a S4. S4 TII spark plug timing is 5 leading 20 trailing. S5 spark plug timing is 0 leading and 20 trailing. Lay a S5 housing on top of a S4 housing and you can see the dufference.
Yeah, it was timing. I'm thinking of going with the 8:5:1 rotors now. Still have no clue on what seals i'm going to use though at the moment. Everybody is running this and that and saying dont use these and use these to where all the info i'm finding isnt helping much lol. I'm thinking RA super seals, OEM, or atkins cyro'd seals.
I was looking at solid corner seals too, but looks like i'm going to stay with stock. The new motor will get 93+ corner seal springs, probably teflon coolant seals and leaning towards the atkins cyrod apex seals. Not sure. We will see soon. Research continues..
Didn't know that on the housings! Good to know. Thanks Sam!
After its built i'm going to have Ben from Rotary Evolution tune it on the dyno for me.
11-05-11, 01:04 AM
#217
Engine bay is somewhat empty. I want to do new paint in the engine bay since the motor is out. Thinking either original formula white or mazda blue for the engine bay. I think with some polished engine parts the blue would pop. Probably stay original. Blue, white body, and brown interior dont really mix... Opinions??? Thought of rhinolining it too .... I just kinda dislike how the light colors show everything. I dont want it to look as busy I guess.
11-05-11, 01:22 AM
#218
rotorican85
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Use that black chalkboard paint. That way when u install/uninstall stuff you can make notes on the firewall, shock towers etc.....and its mad-tyte-jdm-yo!!!!! Lol
I had to search that to see what it was. Nice lol
11-06-11, 04:57 PM
#220
I have been running the S4 NA 9.4 rotors in mine for almost a year now. I haven't had any problems. I have seen more engine failures from standalone ecu setups then anything else. That was the hard decision for me when I fuel injected mine. It was more work modifying a second gen harness to work in a first gen, but it was turn key from day one.
Whether I was running a stock TII ecu, or the R-Tek 1.7, or what I am currently playing with, a R-Tek 2.1. Never had to worry about timing issues. Since I made a rev limiter out of an adjustable shift light, I never worry about over revving the engine.
I actually had an incident where the throttle got hung wide open. If I hadn't had the rev limiter, the engine would have been toast. Also, it's hard to argue with the millions that Mazda put into designing their ecu's.
Whether I was running a stock TII ecu, or the R-Tek 1.7, or what I am currently playing with, a R-Tek 2.1. Never had to worry about timing issues. Since I made a rev limiter out of an adjustable shift light, I never worry about over revving the engine.
I actually had an incident where the throttle got hung wide open. If I hadn't had the rev limiter, the engine would have been toast. Also, it's hard to argue with the millions that Mazda put into designing their ecu's.
11-07-11, 11:02 PM
#221
I have been running the S4 NA 9.4 rotors in mine for almost a year now. I haven't had any problems. I have seen more engine failures from standalone ecu setups then anything else. That was the hard decision for me when I fuel injected mine. It was more work modifying a second gen harness to work in a first gen, but it was turn key from day one.
Whether I was running a stock TII ecu, or the R-Tek 1.7, or what I am currently playing with, a R-Tek 2.1. Never had to worry about timing issues. Since I made a rev limiter out of an adjustable shift light, I never worry about over revving the engine.
I actually had an incident where the throttle got hung wide open. If I hadn't had the rev limiter, the engine would have been toast. Also, it's hard to argue with the millions that Mazda put into designing their ecu's.
Whether I was running a stock TII ecu, or the R-Tek 1.7, or what I am currently playing with, a R-Tek 2.1. Never had to worry about timing issues. Since I made a rev limiter out of an adjustable shift light, I never worry about over revving the engine.
I actually had an incident where the throttle got hung wide open. If I hadn't had the rev limiter, the engine would have been toast. Also, it's hard to argue with the millions that Mazda put into designing their ecu's.
I hear you about the standalone. It's the people that want POWER and dont get it tuned properly that blow them
haha. My car was stuck open when I got the car running the first time. Luckily it didnt hang open full throttle. I dont knowanything about the Rtek. Seems like a lot of 2nd gen people using them. I went standalone cause the stock ecu seems to hold back potential. This time I'll have it tuned right, so I hope it last lol.
11-08-11, 07:56 AM
#224
Chad Carson
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I do have a pair of 13b 4port rotors that I have been told are exact same as gsl-se rotors as well.
Chad
