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Great that's better anyhow. I hated drum brakes on my old rx. Now I have to see if the factory radio works after the PO removed it, I am sad however that I won't be able to use Cruise control PS I found a used wiper motor close to me so thank you.
So we have been researching our 84 GS...according to the VIN. Also according to the VIN the GS had manual windows, manual mirrors, drum brakes in the rear and an open diff. I have been checking out our project, so far I have discovered it has PW, PMirrors, 4 wheel disc brakes, LSD, and lug nits instead of bolts....what gives? Accorsing to the VIN it shoukdnt have any of those things...any ideas?
If you are interested in getting more info, try https://www.rx7club.com/vindecoder.php
Or even better, try contacting j9fd3s. He may still be able/willing to look up your VIN in the Mazda database and give you more info as he has done for me.
Updates: 1984 RX7 GSL. First found out our project car is a GSL....bonus. this means rear discs, LSD PW, PM and the such. We have got the wipers working, horn, headlights go up and down and turn on. Started rwmoving the rear calipers. Found the slide pins seized but have since got them out. We will work on cleaning them up next up is checking the pistons.
we have built the rotors with all seals and clearancea within tolerance. Covered them in vaseline as tonot rust
painted plates and housings, cleaned up some parts and the tank
got the fuel tank cleaned, put in a new used fuel sending unit and reinstalled the fuel pick up tubes. just dont know which nipple goes to the fuel pump. rear caliper pistons are siezed but i scored a used set of calipers for 170 in working order. still looking into having my old ones rebuilt by cardone industries. if anyone needs a pair that need a rebuild....PM me
Last edited by Paulieboy72; Dec 7, 2023 at 10:07 AM.
Here's what I did on my 83. The rear upper and lower control arms want to be the OEM rubber as they need the compliance to move somewhat side to side rather than just up and down. The deal with OEM though is that you need to buy replacement control arms rather than removing the old rubber and pressing in new rubber yourself, that is, you can't get just the rubber bushings for the control arms AFAIK. The Watts link, stabilizer bar and stabilizer bar end links can all be replaced (melt the rubber and push it out, clean the metal ID with a wire wheel) with urethane parts from Energy Suspension.
I've marked the spot in these diagrams (old Black Dragon catalog drawings, now out of business), blue = rubber and red could be urethane. If cost is no problem, maybe you could get all OEM rubber in new stock parts? I've not researched that though.
IMO only use urethane updated rubbers in front setup.. run factory style rubber in rear if you choose to run a rear sway... plenty of info out there from those who track their cars on why....
Me and the youngest boy, today stacked ths motor....progressinv through the steps too fast and had to diassemble part way through due to forgetting to install apex seals and dowel rod oil rings. Back together now. We will have a complete short block 2marrow....question? The FSMand my haynes manual both count 18 torsion bolts however our 12a only has 17 holes and 17 bolts....? ODD? Anyone have an idea?
Me and the youngest boy, today stacked ths motor....progressinv through the steps too fast and had to diassemble part way through due to forgetting to install apex seals and dowel rod oil rings. Back together now. We will have a complete short block 2marrow....question? The FSMand my haynes manual both count 18 torsion bolts however our 12a only has 17 holes and 17 bolts....? ODD? Anyone have an idea?
Did you count the long bolt that goes on the lower exhaust side that goes through the rotor housing leg?
Worked on the 12A today. All internals are complete, frint cover is on just need to tighten the flywheel nut. Also anyone know what this part goes to? Not in my manual.
so we got the motor back together and all the parts put on...my question is....is it normal for the engine to be tight once the oilpump, front cover, flywheel and such are on. when all this was off it turned over quite easily now its a little harder takes a little bit of force maybe 20 lbs of force?
so we got the motor back together and all the parts put on...my question is....is it normal for the engine to be tight once the oilpump, front cover, flywheel and such are on. when all this was off it turned over quite easily now its a little harder takes a little bit of force maybe 20 lbs of force?
Did you set the endplay before putting the front cover on?
yes endplay is in spec. motor turned easily with nothing on it. once oilpump and drive and front cover and all that it turns harder. how easy should it turn with all that installed?
