Ryuske

My name is Kenyon, I just turned 18 and live in NV right now. I'm a Jr in College. I am attending University of Advancing Technology. My major is Technology Forensics. At the moment I teach martial arts, but I'm trying to find another job... I'm really good with computers, not so good with cars :P I've learned a lot about cars since I first bought my truck back in 2008, since I've done pretty much all the work to my cars myself since then. It's been a fairly slow going process. A) I don't have a whole lot of money to throw at them B) I didn't really met anyone who knew about cars until I bought my FC.

Anyways, onto the cars. This is my 4th car, and my 2nd rotary. Currently I own a '91 Ford Explorer (though it died like 3 days ago, and I don't plan on fixing it) and a 10th A/E FC (https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...th-ae-1002645/). This car is going to be my DD, and the FC is gonna be my track/weekend car. Though the FC has a blown engine and I haven't actually gotten to drive it since I bought it :'(

Anyways, the FB is super nice. Very clean, pretty much everything works (except the hatch struts and the headlights wink). Here's a couple of pictures - I didn't take them, they're from the guy who sold it to me, I'll post more later I just bought the car tonight.



Perfect uncracked dash and seats
Motor was just rebuild in Feb. by a shop in Sacramento, CA.
Racing Beat header
Some kind of exhaust past that, but I'm not sure what
Deleted emissions equipment
Deleted AC & Cruise Control
Classic Enkei Apache V 13x6 wheels
GSL-SE rear end with limited-slip differential and disc brakes
Italian-made Grant steering wheel
Eibach GC lowering springs
GR2 shocks in the rear.

Just bought it with new NGK spark plugs, cap/rotor/wires, K&N filter, fuel pump and sender, rear brakes, shifter bushings, seals and new stainless driveshaft with rebuildable U-joints and warranty also installed recently. Has a 6 month old Optima Red Top battery and new battery cables installed. Also new oil metering pump and oilchange done last month.

Also came with the original wheels and a set of 15x7 Minilites in white with the car for a total of three sets of wheels including a full-size original alloy wheel spare. Original springs, Tokico shocks, original radio & steering wheel.

There is very possibly more stuff done to it, I'm waiting back to see if he has a mod list or not. Sorry for the fairly long intro post. I guess all my build threads start that way haha. I probably won't do things very quickly. I don't really plan on spending a whole lot of time on this car, though I probably will cause the $4k needed to get my FC running & ECU/pro tune sounds really overwhelming haha.

I want the car to go a little quicker haha, it's kinda slow. Well, I guess mostly it's the low end that's really slow which is the way all rotaries are but still. What can I do to improve HP? I don't know hardly anything about carbed engines (aside from my motorcycle). What kind of HP gains would I be looking at with like a ~475 carb? People also seem to put superchargers on them, what about a turbo? Like the stock turbo of an S4/S5? Or is it like the N/A FC and it's a ****-ton of work to turbo them? Like new trans/driveshaft/etc

Thanks for reading! Haha

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Nice car - same as mine! Also young like me, another cool thing

You say you have an SE rear end, with sets of rims that match all the way around. They would all have to be 4x114.3 to have an SE rear axle - so the PO must have switched out the front end as well. It could be a GSL rear end and have 4x110 with the LSD and disc brakes, and the PO wouldn't have had to change out the front end. I'd check into that, make sure what your bolt pattern is since its always good to know.

Sounds like a good, solid start to a fun build. Definitely will try to chime in and help - check mine out if you get the chance. I'll keep checking back!

Ryuske

Yea it is definitely a fun car haha xD I'm gonna see the PO today so I'll ask about it.

Lol I've never owned a car with any kind of torque in any power band and so today I was going around a big turn on-ramp and put my foot into it (5-6k-ish rpm in 2nd) and went into an accidental drift at the end. Whoops rofl.

And so my quest begins to smog the car. The PO is giving me the AIR pump and then I need to get a cat put on. Once those things happen I can get it smogged. If you fail here you can do a waiver process- spend $200 on trying to get it to pass- and if it fails again you can register it anyways

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Ask for:
1. Any and all receipts.
2. All the paper accumulated over his ownership of the car detailing anything and everything done to the car.
3. Verbal info (back story, ownership details, etc.)

Just some things I got on mine and I'm very glad I did.

Be careful I put mine sideways with an open diff the last two summers and now I'll have a locking rear end so I'll have to be even more careful - especially from getting caught!

They are extremely light and powerful though. My 7 weights HALF as much as my SN95 Mustang with the 3.8L so it slides like a dream and handles like a beast compared to the granny 'Stang with the 6 banger (only got it because it was basically given to me, I need the better mileage, and the 7 needs to be off the roads in the winter due to the MN salt here).

Sucks to have to do smog, so happy we don't have it here

Ryuske

He only owned the car since Feb, so he doesn't really have any records on it. He bought it from the shop in California that rebuilt it.

Tomorrow it's getting the cat put in, and hopefully the shop will also install the AIR pump (I don't have all the hoses and what have you to put it back in). The shop is really cool though, just found them today. The owner used to race RX-7s, and he owned two FBs. Plus there are 2 other guys who work there that are pretty knowledgable about other stuff (like turbos, and what not).

I also ordered the pitman arm and idler arm. They'll be here Saturday so hopefully this weekend I can put them in. That's pretty much it as far as stuff that needs to be done. Then I'm gonna put some different rims on it for winter, and put the original springs on to raise it a bit for the winter. After that it's on to finishing the CF interior stuff, replace some of the interior lights with LEDs, wire in a switch for the radio (it's hardwired and you have to take the faceplate off to get it to turn off when the car is off). After that I don't know what I'm gonna do to it, probably just fix a couple other aesthetic things and call it good

Does anyone know of a way I can raise the steering wheel up like 1 inch? I can't see the top part of the speedo... Which is freeway speeds and that's where I drive most of the time. Also, the rocker "switch" that is on the right side, right below the defroster or whatever; Is that actually a switch? Like can I wire something into it? Or does anyone know where I can get a switch to put there in place? Could I put like another defroster switch down there? Oh, one last thing. My turn signals don't work. The hazards work, however individual signals do not. Where should I start looking to fix this problem? Is there a relay somewhere? And the washer light comes on occasionally.. It was fluid, so is there a sensor somewhere I can test? Or maybe a ground I can test? It kind of seems like it just "shorts" out sometimes... Most common seems to be when braking from high RPMs

JDMCOREY

My washer light does this also
I wish it would go off lol

And for the turn signal check the switch it my have bad connection or is no good
Just a suggestion

chappies

Good car

Ryuske

My turn signals decided to work last night lol. Dunno what that was all about, but they work now xD

Now if I can just figure out the washer light lol

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Just unplug the sensor on the bottom of the tank - there's a two-wire clip connector and if you unplug it from the tank sensor it goes off. I had a bad one - it worked for me

Ryuske

I would rather actually fix it haha. Do you know how to test that sensor to see if that's the problem?

Ryuske

I replaced the idler and pitman arms. It took forever, and was a pain. I had a pickle fork to remove the ball joint on the idler arm, and that didn't work at all. So I bought a pitman arm puller from O'Reilly's (one of the c-shaped ones with a screw in the middle) and then the opening was too big >< So, I had the welder next door put some beads on the inside of the openings to make it smaller, and that worked perfectly. After I got the ball joint off, I go over to the spine side, and now my puller is too SMALL >.< So, I go back to the store, rent another one and that worked fine. Luckily rentals are free.

The pitman arm was pretty easy using my modified puller, but then I tried to put it on backwards - you should put the ball joint in first, and then screw the 2 fender bolts in haha.

This was all after trying everything I could think off. I tried hitting two hammers together. I didn't have anything to heat it up with, so I did the next best thing; I took a can of compressed air, held it upside down and sprayed it on the stud trying to make it contract - which probably would have worked, had it not been 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit in already.

Now go figure I can't get the idler arm all the way on. I can't get it all the way on the splines. I can't get enough clearance to wedge anything in there that I can hammer to push it up. So, I'm taking it to a mechanic with a lift tomorrow and going to have them hit it all the on. A job that should have taken 3 hours tops, ended up taking like 8.

Sorry, I don't really take pictures of stuff. I might take a picture of my "custom" puller with the arm next to it though.

A few other updates:
For whatever reason I can't get the minilites on the car. The holes look like they line up, but I can't get the on there. Gonna have the tire place do it when I get snow tires on them though. Also fixed my head light winking issue - the connector arm fell off the ball on one side. Then I ended up unplugging the washer sensor until I can get a new one, or figure out how to fix this one.

Next stuff to do: Fix the reverse lights (bulbs and fuses checkout), replace all the weather strips (interior door window ones are missing all together >.<). The only lock cylinder that works with the key is the passenger side, so I gotta switch it with the driver side. After that we'll see what needs to be done, hopefully I can get a RB muffler put on, since the one it has now is garbage and sounds horrible.

Ryuske

Well, I got everything squared away and put on all the way haha. Also traded my Explorer for a '83 FB with a blown rear rotor that I'm going to use as a parts car.

My car seems like it is misfiring though... Any suggestions on what I could look at?

High_Carb_Diet

Looks really great. Since the plugs/wire/cap/rotor are new. Is the carb clean?

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

It's gotta be the sensor being off. All it does is measure the fluid in the reservoir - not important in my book.

As far as the minilites going on, they might be 114.3 which is only 4.3mm off of the 110 you have now. That's 2.15mm off each hole - so they may look like they fit, when in reality they don't. Just check to make sure.

Check the carb and emissions systems for the backfiring issue - I've never experienced it but I've read that those are the two places to look for in that regard.

Ryuske

What do you mean is the Carb clean? The air filter looks fairly clean... I can post some pictures later.

I'm also told the car doesn't have any emissions equipment aside from the cat I had put on. Though it has the rats nest (I think) which I thought was emissions related. Honestly I don't even know that it misfires, I've never really heard another rx7. I was going to upload a sound clip of it

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Like just look into the carb and see if there's any buildup would be an easy way to check.

If the rat's nest is on, it doesn't have the emissions completely deleted... or at least taken off right.

Misfiring is from a number of different causes. Plugs, wires, something switched around, maybe something else. Definitely look into it though, just to make sure something isn't drastically wrong.

High_Carb_Diet

Check the bowls and jets and everything else. My car starting missing and it got worse to the point that the car would barely run. i did a mini dissemble/cleaning and that fixed it. I would say to check the ign stuff first but everything has ready been replaced.

Ryuske

Well, it's been awhile since I updated. Here's where I'm at:
Had to put a cat on the car in-order to even get them to look at my car for smog (was $200 for parts/labor for a high-flow cat )
Got the car smogged and failed for too high HC and CO at idle

Now this is where it gets interesting. So, the way it works here, is your car has to have 5 emissions components (or whatever combo your car originally came with): air pump, egr valve, cat, fuel inlet restrictor, and gas cap I think. The last one might be wrong - been a while since I took the class. They only have to "appear functional", so it doesn't matter if the cat is gutted, as long as some pipe the looks like a cat is there. Now, if you fail (as long as it isn't for 1 or more of those 5 things), you can get a waiver. Basically how this works is you spend $200 either at a certified smog shop, or in *parts* that are directly related to the failure not including tax. If you buy the parts, you physically have to put them on yourself, you can't have a friend do it or something. Supposedly they ask you questions about what went into replacing the parts, I dunno.

So, anyways, my car didn't have the air pump, but the smog tech over looked that and I didn't fail for it. So I can get the waiver. But I'm putting the pump on, timing it, adjusting the idle speed/mixture screws & switching to some hotter (I think?) plugs. According to Mazdatrix, if you fail for too high HC or CO it is 90% of the time the air control valve (diverter valve). Since I was really close to the limits - I think I was 3-5% off on the CO, and like 500ppm off on the HC. Or the percentage could have been HC, and ppm could have been CO. I forgot. Anyways, I'm pretty sure on that it is actually on there and not just a block off plate it should pass. But I need to get a gasket for it..

So, basically that's where I'm at. Once it passes smog, I'll be registering it (finally), replacing the brakes (which also means I'll be converting from wheel bolts to wheel studs) & adding cruise control. Then hopefully a tranny swap from my parts car, along with re-doing the weather seals.

Ryuske

Well, I've gotten a lot done since I last updated - hopefully I can remember everything haha.

Got the air pump working, and timed the car. After that I went and got it smogged and it passed on the first try (if it fails, they computer will automatically do a challenge test) so that was pretty exciting. Went down and got it registered and my personalized plates just came in yesterday! I didn't have the bolts to put them on, and got pulled over for not having plates as I was on my way to pick up some nuts to mount them haha xD It was no big deal, since I had all necessary documentation & a moving permit that doesn't expire til 1/15/2013.

I picked up some new wiper blades, and a hatch struts last week. Got those all put on the car, and I gotta say I think out of everything I've done so far the hatch struts are my favorite haha xD Took the parts car over to my friends house who is helping me swap the stuff I need, which moves us on to where I am now:

A couple days ago we swapped in the transmission, clutch, starter, cruise control and washer fluid motor (and apparently sensor?). So, now my reverse lights & washer indicator lights all work. The wires off the previous transmission where the reverse switch is were actually missing rofl, that explains that issue xD Oh, and when you're switching out the starter make sure you plug the right wires into it - we accidently plugged the wrong ones in, which were apparently connected to the ignition & when I turned the key to "On" the starter would turn haha xD It was the "insta-start" :P

There was a vacuum line missing from the cruise control when I put it on, so it still didn't work. But with the help of Lindadash's post about the cruise control & some vacuum line from O'reilly's I got the cruise control working just like it's supposed to I also swapped out all the locks & ignition lock from the parts car into this one today. So, now all the key holes go to the same key haha xD

I'm planning on picking up some different bolts tomorrow for the ignition lock (ones that are actual bolts). I can't tighten it down all the way without taking the dash off, so right on it's only about 60% on. The ignition lock is also really, really sticky and doesn't flow/"spring" like the old one did (i.e. I have to physically turn the key back once the car starts). Any ideas on how to fix this? I read about using graphite but I am not entirely sure how to go about doing this. I ended up not putting the steering column cover back on, since it's starting to crack, and only half the screws actually do anything (and go figure I can't find the right screws that fit in the holes that actually do anything). I am planning on either buying or making a new cover out of aluminum. My friend can cast aluminum we just have to make a mold & get it machined.

I also "broke" my blinkers in the process of swapping the ignition lock. I think it's just cause it isn't tightened down all the way & the steering wheel lock thing is messing up; But when I turn the wheel it turns that directions blinkers on. Like it physically moves the combo switch. I took the steering wheel back off and didn't see anything catching so my guess is that it's most likely the ignition lock. I'm planning on getting bolts and putting it the rest of the way on tomorrow, so I'll update on whether or not that fixing my issue. If it doesn't, suggestions are welcome haha xD

So, that's about all of done since last posting (I think). The last thing I'm gonna take out of the parts car are the brakes, and then the rest is left up to the Part Out. Not sure what to do with the stuff that doesn't sell at the moment...