1984 5-letter / S5 "Selene"
07-14-16, 11:09 PM
#201
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Wow ioTus, what a beautiful build! Hey, if you want to spend a few days in the Bay Area after I finish up my fabrication, we can tear down and wire tuck my factory harness (using new high temp expandable sleeving and DR-25!) together. I'll pay you for your time! 
Check out my build, maybe you'll find a ***** in my armor.
-Ryan @ RGHTBrainDesign
Check out my build, maybe you'll find a ***** in my armor.
-Ryan @ RGHTBrainDesign
07-16-16, 06:08 PM
#202
www.AusRotary.com
I just read this from start to finish and i love this build. The perfect combo "resto" and "mod". I also like the effort you've gone to to do a factory interior restoration. It's very similar to what I'm hoping to achieve.
Coincidentally i also just did a factory horn button resto so it was timely that read this through. I tried the nail varnish method. It looks great and is easy but what worked better for me was lightly sanding out the scratches then polishing with Mothers plastic polish. It looks much closer to original (i have an unused NOS horn button to compare with.
I describe what i did here (with photos): AusRotary.com ? View topic - How to restore clear plastic eg lens, horn pads etc
Coincidentally i also just did a factory horn button resto so it was timely that read this through. I tried the nail varnish method. It looks great and is easy but what worked better for me was lightly sanding out the scratches then polishing with Mothers plastic polish. It looks much closer to original (i have an unused NOS horn button to compare with.
I describe what i did here (with photos): AusRotary.com ? View topic - How to restore clear plastic eg lens, horn pads etc
01-17-18, 11:48 PM
#204
Great work here. Love the detailed photos. How has the car been running lately? Did you figure out the VDI, I lost track reading so fast.One item I saw an issue with was the vacuum advance. You mention the car running better with more advance than recommended, and I think the reason is because you used a direct manifold vacuum source which will improperly advance the timing at idle. The solenoid that was part of the rats nest is designed to engage the vacuum advance only when a) RPMs are above 1,000 or b) the A/C is turned on. It also disables the advance while decelerating. Naturally, the advance also disables under WOT because there is no manifold pressure anymore. You are probably fine without the solenoid as long as you understand your idle will be a little faster and it should be advanced about 7 degrees. Otherwise you’ll end up with retarded timing at WOT.
01-18-18, 07:19 AM
#206
He was just posting photos on Facebook yesterday so he still has it. I told him it was time for an electric fan.
I might have enjoyed this more had I found it 2 years ago. I re-wired my REPU, every single wire, and had to piece together much of the information from various hot rod sites. I doubt anyone will appreciate the work that goes into resto-updating an old wiring system except someone who’s done it. Forget body work, running wires and testing circuits and analyzing the factory wiring diagram so you fully understand how the factory switches work is extremely tedious.
01-18-18, 01:29 PM
#207
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
He was just posting photos on Facebook yesterday so he still has it. I told him it was time for an electric fan.
I might have enjoyed this more had I found it 2 years ago. I re-wired my REPU, every single wire, and had to piece together much of the information from various hot rod sites. I doubt anyone will appreciate the work that goes into resto-updating an old wiring system except someone who’s done it. Forget body work, running wires and testing circuits and analyzing the factory wiring diagram so you fully understand how the factory switches work is extremely tedious.
I'm dropping in a US Govt LMTV Truck's VEC as my replacement fusebox. Just need to identify the internal pinout by trial and error, but I'll get a 8 Circuit setup with Circuit Breakers instead of fuses, and everything relayed. Super reliable. Resto-updating old wiring is AWESOME!
Using all m22759/32 as replacement too. Screw it.
01-18-18, 02:59 PM
#208
I went with an American Autowire fuse box for my REPU build. I was able to source add on parts to include extra circuits for the EFI stuff. Power distribution is similar to ioTus's final drawings. A single 4ga wire off the alternator goes into the cab and to the fuse box. A smaller 8ga wire goes to the battery and passes through the original main fuse and Ammeter shunt. I've got that wired up and working so it tells me when the system is done charging the battery or the alternator isn't charging. Right now the radio and ECU are grounded to the same location, which is causing some subtle alternator whine. I'll fix that next time I have the dash apart. Very few circuits are powered by the ignition switch anymore. Fuel pump, ECU, E-Fan, wipers, headlights, are all run off relays so only low power passes through the steering column. Power to the relays comes off a 12ga wire from the fuse box. I really do need to diagram everything I did before I forget. The American Autowire kit has labels on all the wires, but I've added a bunch since then that don't have labels. It was fun...but I was glad to be done. I still have to wire loom everything up now that I've stopped adding more wires to the bundles.
01-20-18, 10:55 AM
#209
Senior Member
Electric fan is brilliant. Even without swapping alternator aye. So nice being able to control when it comes on. Just make sure to get a decent controller and not just rely on a manual switch and your memory hahah. I highly recommend a Davies Craig controller if anyone is swapping over
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