8_turbo2_8

I purchased this 79 from a forum member, rxtasty3. I drove down to SC for a work trip and looked at the car on 9/29/19. We spoke for a little over an hour about the car and I left after we settled on a price. I picked the car up on 10/5/19.

Before I get into the story of what I have planned for the car let me first say that Mike (rxtasty3) has 3 other vehicles for sale and I was looking to pick up the GSL SE he has as well, it’s just wasn’t possible to get it at that time. He is very honest and if it wasn’t for the neighbors coming over we might not have got the 79 on the trailer. I was told the car had ran a year or so ago and that it had a fuel tank pickup issue, but there was no reason why the little 12A shouldn’t/wouldn’t fire again as he had the car running of a gas can.

the car is overall in great shape, the only rust I can find is on the hood and I’m going to try to repair it, we’ll see how it goes.

Here it is when I get it on 10/5/19


Then began the 7 hour drive back home.

Here is the car today sitting in the driveway. The other vehicle is a 67 Dart that I haven’t decided if I will part or rebuild.









I have since taken the tank and tried to free up the blockage with heat, welding wire, and brake carb cleaner to no avail. Side note: does anyone know the brand of wheels these are? I know they aren’t factory Mazda wheels.






You can see from the pics that the wire would only go but so far, hints the blockage. I have the tank getting chem dipped on Thursday. Overall the tank isn’t bad, no through rust or anything like that just simple surface rust. I’ll re coat the inside of the chem dip, similar to what is done with radiators when they get clogged.

on 10/14/19 she fired for me. Of a gas can with some premix of course. She flooded a few times and I had the carb off a numerous amount of times due to the flooding. However I did learn a little bit, after telling myself to take a second and not throw the carb a crossed the yard. I sat down and said screw it I’ll actually read the carb book. So after eating a snickers and not being hangry anymore I noticed the float levels were messed off. Thanks Sterling.

After noticing the floats and fixing them I got the car to fire and hold some RPM, I can’t tell you what RPM as the gauge isn’t working. Well it works, it just comes on and off and only goes to 4K then right back off, oh and the idiot lights keep going in and out. That’s my next project. From what I have read it’s a ground issue or possible just a loose connection, I’ll let the forum know what I figure out.

so that’s my story as of now and I’m sticking to it.

Onto my plans for the car. I’d love to just get her running and driving for now it will be getting cold here soon and that’s when I’ll take some panels off and see if any more rust is present. Long term I would like to get a set of coilovers and some period correct wheels or a set of works. We shall see what the budget will allow. Keeping the car 12A is what I would also like to do with a blow thru set up again if the budget allows.

-John

8_turbo2_8

10/15/19 Update

I got the car to start/run and kept it going long enough for it to warm up completely over the long weekend. (atleast for my fellow federal workers) However, it will not hold an idle below 2K. From what I have read and messing around with some old Mopar carbs. I think there is either a vaccum leak or possibly some ignition issues.

The tach started working, I giggled and wiggled the wires going to both ignitors. they werent loose, but ill be testing and ordering new ones it needed. If you let the car go below 2K the the idiot lights start coming on, typical? From what I read it is when the alternator isn't charging.

A squeal has developed from what I assume is the alternator, as its not charging and is a little rough around the edges. IF I can find a local shop that can rebuild it I will, until then ill take it off and see if I can " knock the rust off " and get it tested as well. Id like to keep that alternator, even though the S5 swap isnt that hard.

Yes I know I need to clean the leaves out, but I had to hear it run before I started cleaning it up.

-John

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

The 79's have external voltage regulators, not built into the alternator (the box in the rear corner of left inner fender). If you have charging issues, don't forget your regulator is a separate unit.

8_turbo2_8

Thanks for reminder, I have not looked into that yet but it is on my list.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

glad to hear it will still run after all this time. as i told u, i still think it's going to be a good car to get back on the road.

73rx313b

iTrader: (40)

Glad its going to be saved!

woodmv

iTrader: (8)

I'm glad the car is going to a new home and will be revived! I was secretly scheming in my mind how to get that very car and stay out of the dog house. Would love to have a red SA to match to my newly finished silver one.... The place I took my gas tank to here locally replaced all three of those small lines in my tank with new, dipped, stripped, lined and coated my tank - it's like brand new. Hopefully the place doing yours will do the same.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

You're doing a great thing by restoring that car! You're off to a great start and I look forward to seeing the progress you continue to make on the car! Also, love the memorial bracelets. When I was in the army I wore one for years until it literally snapped in half. Were those men friends of yours?

8_turbo2_8

Yes sir they we’re. Thanks for the encouragement. My Dad always talked about how much he liked the way the first gens looked so I’ve been on the hunt for a little over a year when I seen the 79 for sale. Luckily it was in better shape then I had thought when I looked at it and brought it home.

10/24/19 UPDATE ON THE CAR:

First drive under its own power!

I was able to get the car to idle, but I have found a few vacuum leaks on the carb and it only wants to idle around 1500 rpm. Carb kit is already here, but I was waiting to get the car running and idling before I put it on. I also have an ultra sonic cleaner on the way, and I’m hoping to rebuild the carb over the weekend. I have read a few threads on rebuilding and stripping and look forward to the process.

I also purchased and installed a new clutch master and slave cylinder. More of a preventative maintenance thing then anything. Brake system is next.

8_turbo2_8

10/29/19 Update

Work trip calls for a hotel room carb cleaning. If anyone plans to do this I highly suggest using a ultra sonic cleaner. It really cut the funk and got the carb looking good. Sadly I didn’t take any pics of the carb after it was cleaned and before I sprayed it. I have a carb kit at home, exactly where I left it. So on the way down I ordered another one and when I went to pick it up it was part # 96-255 not 96-555 like I ordered. No big deal, it will let the paint dry before I put it back together and I’ll be able to really look at everything before I put it back on the car.

overall the carb wasn’t to bad, but it did have a vacuum leak and I had the time so I took it off before I left and got to work the night I got to my hotel.

enjoy the pics, let me know if I missed / messed anything up.

Also, yes I cleaned out the accelerator pump and idle mixture holes.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Looks like you did a nice job on the carb! May have wanted to mask off the accelerator pump, area but other than that it looks good. Did you take the twin squirters out of the main body and clean them as well? One screw removes both as they share one fuel feed. Those tend to get gummed up and will cause a light throttle stumble.

8_turbo2_8

I did. I removed everything and ultra sonic cleaned the section of the carb with the reusable pieces.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Cant wait to see the car back on the engine and hear how it runs after the rebuild!

8_turbo2_8

You ask and you shall receive.

11/4/19 UPDATE:

Carb is back on, still adjusting idle. Runs great at partial and wot. Has a little backfire right after I let off after a rev, but nothing crazy. Really need a wideband, because not knowing is driving me nuts. There is a hole in the muffler, gotta get that taken care of, maybe adding to a louder backfire then it actually is. The car does need some more time at higher RPM, but I am trying to ease into it. I noticed the idle change after a few higher revs, and im going to assume it was due to some carbon getting kicked out the back. Once I get the idle where I want it, ill seafoam the engine and see how she looks after.

Pics/ video to come after work.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

sounds like ur making good progress. anything useful in that box of spares?

8_turbo2_8

Everything is on the shelf for a spare as of now. Did you get anymore of the cars sold?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

nope. the guy from FL was coming this past weekend to get the se and the black car but his wife had other plans for him, so it'll probably be this weekend.

8_turbo2_8

11/7/19 UPDATE:

Got the fuel tank back. The pickup line is still blocked but the tank is pretty darn clean on the inside. Looks like I’ll be cutting the line out and going with some hydramat to fix the problem.

Here is a picture of the carb back on. Looks like a shiny turd on top of a regular turd.

8_turbo2_8

It’s been a while.

UPDATE:

Cars is in the garage. Fuel tank is installed with the Holley hydramat and AN bulkhead to fix the clogged line. Functioning as it should. I’ve started her up weekly just to keep the gaskets in the carb seeing some cycles.



Since getting the tank back in I have bought mostly replacement parts for the suspension.

I bought a set of BC Coilovers back in January and that is the next step to getting the car back together.


Since then I bought most of the needed suspension pieces. I still need to get the TTT GTX2’s for my LCA’s. When I took the passenger side off, driver side is still together. The LCA has been grinding on the outter forward portion where it bolts to the chassis, due to the bushing being completely gone. Even before noticing this I planed on getting the TTT LCAs.

New vs Old Idler Arm


New vs Old Inner/Outter Toe Rods and adjusters.




The Rear Drums we’re toast, but stil in spec to get skim cut. So I cleaned them up, got them blasted, skim cut and powdercoated. Sadly I don’t have any pictures



I also got the trans out and cleaned. Again no pics, I’ll take some when I get it back in the car.

Clutch disk, pressure plate and bellhousing conditions when I took them out.




I got a replace clutch kit, Exedy 07020, to go in the car. Just a stock replacement, nothing fancy needed yet.


That is how the car sits as of 3/25/20.

I have also purchased a FD Upper/Lower manifold for a decent price and might being going FI, with some extras if I can get it done, we’ll see. I have a spare 12A motor to take apart and play around with while I enjoy the car this summer and she’ll go back under the knife when it started getting cold again.

It’ll be back on the ground by summertime hopefully and out and about in NC/VA area. If anyone following the build is around VA/NC let me know.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

been wondering how this was coming along. curious as to the cost of all that for fixing the supply line.

8_turbo2_8

The AN bulkhead fitting was $20, new fuel line was $10. I’d have to go back and see exactly how much the hydramat was, maybe $150 or so. I drilled out the clogged line and carefully got the new bulkhead in and tight so it wouldn’t leak. The hardest part was getting the mat is the hole and in the right position. One day I would like to build a new tank for it that will fit in the stock location.

8_turbo2_8

4/16/2020 UPDATE

I got the rear BC’s in over the weekend along with getting the exhaust system and intake off the car. I want to put a 13B 2 to 1 header I have on the 12A. I’ve heard some people are against this but I do not plan on running this set up forever.

I received the needed gaskets for the intake and header and plan on getting the header “re drilled” to the smaller 12A stud size and have both back on this weekend.

Pictures of the old springs and shocks vs new BC “coil overs” for the rear.




While I had the front suspension apart I blasted and painted it. I was going to powder coat it, but the car will be coming apart again for paint and I will powder coat parts then.






I was hoping to get the front coilovers but I ran into a problem. The BC shock tubes ID will not slide/press fit onto the OEM strut tub, Per BC’s instructions cut the strut tube 20mm up front the spindle base and press or slide it over, weld around the base, done. Doesn’t happen. I‘ll need to cut the BC tube to a larger ID to slide over. No big deal, I’ll take it to a buddy and get it to work. I did contact BC and let them know, and got the usual I’ll forward this to my overseas R&D. Hoping to hear back soon, but I’m gonna bet I’ll be driving the car before I hear anything.

8_turbo2_8

UPDATE:

It has been a while since I last posted.

Front suspension is on






Shifter rebuild

Pulled off the whole exhaust system and installed a RB header and will be building my own stainless exhaust. Does anyone have any clips of the muffler they have used?


Drove the car to get an alignment after the suspension was done and I got a couple vacuum leaks taken car of.



My youngest daughter convinced me that a wankel will fit in her power wheels. Swap coming soon. . .