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2/11/2021 Update
-Tried to get it started in November
Got everything hooked up, but it didn't want to start, and the haltech couldn't detect the rotations using the original crank angle sensor. When put in rising instead of falling, it was able to read, so I think my low speed cranking issues have been because my + and - on the crank sensor have been reversed. It got too cold for me to stay in the garage to diagnose, and will wait for spring
-Diagnosing why the aftermarket pressure sensors weren't registering
So if one ECU can't read it, i thought it might have been an ECU problem. But because both the Adaptronic and Haltech couldn't read it, i diagnosed the pins for the connectors. Looks like the pins were rotated one position, so that nothing lined up how they were supposed to. Need to remove the heat shrink, de-pin, and re-pin correctly in order to get the sensors working. At least it should be an easy fix.
-Fixing the driver's side door trim plastics
Procrastinate enough on this car, and someone will come up with an answer to your NLA part needs. Got a trim from A.1. designs, and this part is better than the OEM spec, with threaded inserts instead of the plastic screw bosses that eventually break. Only question I have is, whats this broken piece circled in red and is it even needed?
Since A.1. hasn't done design for the passenger side door trim, I will still probably just proceed with JB welding in threaded rods, similar to what I did with the gauge cluster.
4/7/2021 Update
Finally nice weather, time to get the car rolling (hopefully)
-Fixed the CAS sensor wiring
I think this was ultimately the issue with the car, as the polarities were swapped. Positive should be on the right side (W/L), but it was on the left. Chris had someone start working for him and he mixed up some of these wires on multiple harnesses. Not angry at Chris, because this stuff happens, but any harness I get, even new, I will check to make sure all the connections are terminating where they are supposed to. This was probably causing an issue with the adaptronic at low RPMs, since it would be giving a rising edge instead of a falling edge signal, and at higher RPMs this is a little less important since the signal should be a lot stronger and faster, so the difference between falling and rising are minimal. So in the end, probably didn't need to change the ECU, but i am a lot happier with the haltech overall, in terms of capability and ease of installing peripherals.
-Fixed Fuel and oil pressure sensor wiring
Looks like the pressure sensor plugs were incorrectly pinned, and the pins were rotated clockwise by one pin, so the sensors weren't sending anything. Took off the greddy elbow, and managed to get to the sensor plugs, cut the heatshrink, depin and repin, then add new heatshrink. Hopefully the sensors should work with the haltech now.
-Updated A/C idler pulley
Since I needed to get to the CAS sensor and remove belts anyways, thought I should add a 06 rib belt idler pulley instead. Found one that fit for about $45, and came with additional stuff that i didn't need to use (bolt, stay, and washer). It was a dayco idler pulley #89171, and it seems like it rotated freely when fully tightened and had clearance to the bracket.
Next Steps:
-Button everything back up to test
-Possibly replace the 5 year old gas in the gas tank (had stabil in it, but read on other posts that with how long I stored it the octane is probably a lot less. Since i've used about half a tank for testing, may just put fresh gas, premix, and let the fuel pump mix everything together.
-Hope that everything starts now that I think the issue has been corrected.
6/13/2021 Update
A.I.One door trim installed
-Got to say, their products are amazing, look sharp, and fit snugly. Also because he uses threaded nut inserts instead of the plastic screw anchors, these parts should last a really long time
Cleaned Injectors
-Sent out my injectors to ID in Arizona to get cleaned and flowed. My primaries (1300x) were within 2% deviation, and my secondaries (1700x) had almost no deviation at all, so I consider that a success.
Electrical Gremlins pt. 1 - No Spark
-didn't get 12v to IGN-1A ignitors, due to not getting ground for my ignition relay. Traced it back to 4N, which looks like it was a constant ground on the adaptronic, but wasn't pinned for the haltech in the adapter harness. Connected it to the ignition relay ground on the haltech, and was able to get spark
Electrical Gremlins pt. 2 - I am bad at reading connector diagrams
-Had an issue, that even though my fuel pressure sensor worked when I had my oil pressure sensor plugged in, it would stop working when i unplugged the oil pressure sensor. Needed to unplug the oil pressure sensor because it was backfeeding 5v into the sensor ground, so not fun.
-Realized I had read the connector diagram wrong, instead of looking at it from the sensor, i was looking at it from the connector, so I had swapped the 5V and ground on the fuel pressure sensor, and swapped 5V and ground, but also swapped signal and ground, so that the 5v was feeding back into the signal ground. This explained all the wonkiness. Got that finally taken care of, but just want to say I hate troubleshooting electrical issues.
Remote Tuning by Shawn
-Had another hour with Shawn, and we found some of those issues (pt 2) after updating the ECU firmware and laptop software. I swear I have probably paid him the most for first time starts, and still not really gotten it to start smoothly (no fault of Shawns, just a whole bag of mess)
-Might need to schedule one more first start, but should be able to start the vehicle with the settings he has changed and maps he has uploaded. Here is hoping.
7/12/2021 Update
Electrical Gremlins Pt. 3 - Did I mention I am bad at reading connector diagrams?
-So car would start, but wouldn't keep running. Thought it was an issue with the tune, but apparently I am not so good with some of the wiring diagrams. I had both relays connected to the Haltech, so during the 4 seconds of priming it would trigger both relays, allowing my fuel pump to prime. As soon as it would start, fuel pressure would drop to 0. I remember taking out the fuel pump relay a long time ago, so that's why trying to just use the main fuel pump relay wasn't working. I have shorted the main relay (just in case I want to go back to the stock setup I should be able to with no issues) and it should start and run hopefully.
Copying Theorie and running side markers
-Decided to copy theorie and add bmw side markers to the fenders. Had it done at a bodyshop near me, to see how their work was, as i might consider them touching up some of the paint. Overall happy with the work.
Getting rid of the foam
-Finally decided to go to the dry filters from the foam filters. Was lurking other people's builds and noticed someone had greddy dry filter intake cones instead of the regular foam filters. Picked some up off nengun, and they look and fit perfectly. Now I don't have to worry about foam breaking off and getting sucked in.
Reached photo upload limit, so trying to see if they will appear being linked in google photos.... may have to make a photobucket account and imbed them in. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
-Got an alignment, and no longer have to drive with the steering wheel 90 degrees to the right
-Car is currently in a paint shop, getting some issues touched up and fixed, also he is doing a proper 3-layer with paint, pearl, then clear and it has made a world of difference.
-Next steps are to take it into the dealership I have a great relationship with for ABS light (I think it may be one of the sensors, flushing brakes (I think there is some air in the ABS when i disconnected everything), and the rear main diff seal, and recharging the A/C, and insuring no leaks
-After that getting it tuned, and hopefully fully able to enjoy it this summer before moving to Texas.
