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I'd like to thank Angelo and Andrew over at ANZE Suspension again for the exceptional purchase process. Their impressive service focus and bespoke engineering created one of those rare "WOW!" experiences.
Also thanks to prodding by trusted track cohorts (i.e. Crispy and Peter), I went ahead and reoriented the rear coilovers with the hose banjo facing forward to preclude any interference with swaybar links. Thankfully it was disarmingly easy to do, especially give the imparted peace of mind. THANKS guys for the reality check!!!
Nice! You sticking with the same turbo setup or going to one of the new EFRs?
How is the paint? From a distance it looks pretty good.
Dale
Objective is to simply getting it on the track.... SAFELY!
Sticking with the same turbo, especially since I have a bran spankin new one that's been in the box for ages.
Only swapping out the M4 because it's so limiting vice the M84. Want to fully support the E85 setup. Timing with a real high-count trigger wheel is also a primary concern. Finally, a 3/4 rotor future is not beyond the pale... the M4 would run out of mojo in those cases.
Paint is a " C- " up close. I can live with it in the near term but it will drive me bonkers once the car is fully up and running. It'll never be show quality, but I do have pride of workmanship driving it's future.
Last edited by Carlos Iglesias; Apr 14, 2019 at 03:01 PM.
Reason: Dumbass ADD
M84 is a good upgrade. You might want to look at a used M800 for maybe $3000 or so.
Gordon, while the upfront prices of an M800 is about $3K, it would easily require at least another $1500 in upgrades to get the right package. That's to say nothing about the harne$$. Alas, even if I could find cheaper, the Benjamins have been spent on the M84 and accoutrements already.
Ihor, gracias. It's good to be back... especially since I have not yet been caught in the Black Hole of Benjamin's event horizon.
Last edited by Carlos Iglesias; Apr 15, 2019 at 08:54 PM.
Motor, I-Rotary seals, EWP, bra-less, and foolish optimism
Better Lucky than Good.
Motor teardown is disarmingly uneventful. Back rotor/housing looked new (as it effectively is). Front rotor probably had a water seal compromise, though nothing obvious in TES inner seal nor any cracking in the side plates. At this point I'm caulking it up to 100% distilled water with WaterWetter that was foolishly left outside in the CT winter tundras when temps spent a week or two south of -10F. Thankfully, all looked good with the only noticeable damage being a 2mm long pit barely a "fingernail deep" in the intake sweep. There is also some "ghost prints" from the rotor sitting for years in one position; I could not measure it off the surface of the plates. I plan to run all side plates as they are. One positive, is that I got to re-work the sideseal that was only giving 105psi. A slight binding due to no clearance was fixed. Hoping to have all chambers in the mid-125psi on startup.
"Objective is to simply getting it on the track"... my ****!
After this many years out of the hobby, I figured some information had improve. (Bad Idea #1) Running Mazda 2mm, 2-piece with E85, I started checking on seal development. Well lo and behold, Mr. Ianetti has been busy doing the Lord's Work: I-Rotary apex seals. Talked to Mazda Comp and Mazmart... and I've got new seals. Life on the bleeding edge as always. Just call me a Rotary Hemophiliac!!
With as little info as is out there (Mazda Comp was waiting on shipment), here's some facts (single seal data set):
I couldn't find a dimension variance on the I-Rotary seals as measure at multiple dimensional points across spans: IMPRESSIVE QC!
I-Rotary seals are .015mm thinner than the Mazda seals
I-Rotary seals are taller at the three "steps" (tallest to slimmest) by .7mm/.7mm/.5mm than the Mazda seals. I think you can see it in the picture.
I-Rotary seals do not have the bevel at the base 2mm of the seal like the Mazda seals
I-Rotary seals a 7x loupe reveal that ALL edge are radius... AMAZING workmanship!! All Mazda are straight cut.
I-Rotary and Mazda are magnetic.
I-Rotary vs Mazda apex seals (close-up)
I also decided to remove the front bumper and fix some shoddy wiring I did back in the '03 when I built up the car. This will also facilitate all the new wiring and routing for the Motec M84 swap, while giving me a chance to clean out all the ducts, oil cooler plumbing and clean out all the crevices. Man, it's amazing where critters will build nest!!
Bra-less Rotary Beast
Also been wanting to improve my confidence in the reliability of the water pump. Due to the the crazy elegant plumbing Mark originally designed for the car, I didn't want to relocate it. Luckily, Davies Craig now has an all-metal drop-in (EWP130) that has ~60% greater flow. A no brainer. only decision now is whether I want to leave it controlled by the DC controller or incorporate into the M84 output (requires a Motec solid-state half-bridge relay).
Davis Craig EWP130 EWP80 & plumbing
Like a dumbass, I missed ordering the outer coolant seals or else the motor would have been built. I'll get the order in and finish it next weekend. Already started tearing out the ECU and harness. So left to do so far:
- M84: New harness, including 4 new input/outputs
- replace injectors (ID1600 and ID850's) surely pickled in E85; expect ID1050x/ID1700x setup unless...
- replace 3 fuel pumps? (Supra in-tank feed to surge tank & 2 parallel -044 pressure)
- rewire HID's to Spic Racing (i.e. motorsports-ish) standards
- reinstall engine
- begin tuning fun
More to fun...
Last edited by Carlos Iglesias; May 26, 2019 at 11:29 AM.
Reason: ADHD
Paul Walker from Mazmart talked about the I-Rotary seals at DGRR at our round table discussion this year. From what he was saying there is a LOT of science in those seals and (as you saw) top notch quality control.
At this point I wouldn't run stock apex seals on anything but a stock car. Modern seals (RX-Parts also) are SO much better on modified cars, the whole "I broke another apex seal" is a thing of the past.
I agree, the distilled water/water wetter sitting killed it. I'd do either Evans or a more conventional distilled water/green coolant mix. Looking forward to seeing it back together,
sYes!!!!!!!!!
