I need to decide pretty quick if I will do a street port and change the factory seals out for the RX7.com seals.... like a real street port.... like it is actually ported and not just zapped by a billionth of a mm.

 

I didn't accuse you of anything. I am sorry that you got screwed. I was just curious because I bought a motor from them and it looked nothing like that. Does the motor have a PR stamp on each rotor housing next to the Mazda emblem?

 

Sorry if I came across that way at all. I never thought you accused me of anything.

I am not sure if he has a PR stamp on it. I will say no, as I never saw one. I bought the car from him and was told it has 3500 miles on his "blue printed", "pettit special" street ported, oil passages, blah, blah motor. It was an auto and I paid about 4500 for a "blue printed" manual transmission conversion which I will stop there as I will start making even more grammatical and spelling mistakes as I start smoking these little touch screen keys it is quite apparent that this motor does not have 5000 miles on it. Anyway, I look forward to the future and spending thousands!!! Lol

 

Ouch. I would def do a solid streetport. Definitely wakes it up a bit. And a brand new engine with an experienced builder will possibly result in even better tolerances on the seals than factory if done right.

 

Sad to hear your engine broke but good to hear that Kilo is doing your engine. Kilo street ported my engine and I used the oem 2mm apex seals. Kilo likes the oem 2mm apex seals. I have been pushing over 400rwhp for over 3 years now on that motor Kilo built. Make sure you have a good tuner. I went from powerfc to microtech because that's what Kilo tunes. I did not want no b.s which is why I switched ecu. I do miss my powerfc but I have a very reliable setup. Motor blows the mechanic cant blame the tuner and the tuner cant blame the mechanic. The rotary game can be ruthless sometimes but when you have it all ironed out it is a blast. Brap on brother and if you are in the area and need a hand reach out to me. I am only 30 min from Kilos.

 

Very happy to hear! I will be staying twin sequential so not too interested in the Microtech, but I believe between Ari and Jesus they will have the pfc down good. Jesus tells me he doesn't like oem seals. Either way I am excited and I know he can do a good job. I think a tuner is a tuner. The pfc just isn't plug and play for him, but I am happy to pay him extra to mess with it.

 

Sorry I thought he used oem 2mm apex seals. Maybe he just does not like the 3mm seals and uses 2mm seals. I know he used 2mm apex seals on mine I am very happy with the engine. I am guessing you are taking Kilo to your tunning session. Not a bad idea either. This way he is there and if the tuner makes a mistake and pops the engine he built and you will know who owes you an engine. I am sure everything will work out fine. Hope you get your car back so you can enjoy it. Brap on brother

 

Any more updates here? Curious how these SP 3KAI turbos do.

Matt

 

The engine and turbos were put back in as of yesterday from what I understand.
I am planning on the 25-27th to pick it up.
It will not be broke in on a dyno though so I will be quite a wimp in doing so. So we won't know for probably around a month from now as I will have to take it back up unless I get it tuned more locally.

New motor, inspected, ported/polished, seals swapped out.
Koyo Nflo and hoses, ast delete
All new oil and coolant lines for turbos and well everything.
New thermostat housing with all new sensors and FC fan sensor, new thermostat of course, and new upgraded water pump.
New turbos
New wire harness
new fuel filter and we are suppose to relocate it for easier access
4.44 gears and diff mounts if needed
apexi 3 bar map sensor and boost control solenoid
Anything else that could be played and cleaned up on the uim and lim
engine bay just generally cleaned up. I will probably install the water/meth when I get it back.
not sure if I left anything out. Damn, not much left to be replaced on this thing.

 

Got the 7 back a few days ago so an update is in order.
1st I have to give a huge thanks to Kilo Racing. From what I can see so far they did an excellent job. No doubt Jesus nows his stuff, but just as important he cares about his name and the person he is doing work for. You can still feel an enthusiastic approach and a true passion from Jesus and his son. It is nice to feel that.
There was definitely some inexcusable work performed on this car. Some major, some minor. One example would be 8 ft of cable left bundled up after a battery relocation is performed is just down right friggin lazy. I saw it a long time ago and figured I would get to it when the time comes. The oil coolers are mounted properly and the lines are run appropriately. I still have to fix an abs sensor that was bashed with a hammer when the coilovers and sway bar were installed. Other small issues will be addressed as time goes. I didn't want to bother Kilo with the small stuff.
Currently the car is running off the wg spring and is only at 6psi. The couple wot resulted in 0 boost creep with the mid pipe so that is nice. I am trying my darndest to stay out of the throttlle and am trying to keep it at 4500-4000 or below no boost while breaking in. It is running very rich so I am happy we left the mid pipe for now. The future of the mid pipe will depend 100% on boost creep.
I wish I could update on the bigger turbos, but it will have to wait for the tune. Response feels nice even with how rich it's running.
Only odd issue I see so far is the coolant temps. I 1st must say I am running a Mishimoto 68°c thermostat. Why? I dunno I got it for free from mishimoto points and thought let's try it. Leaving Orlando it was around 73 and rain. Damn she ran cold. On I95 cruising 80mph ish she stayed at around 76-78°c. This is after she took awhile to warm up (staying at 69°). No doubt 69 is a beautiful #, but damn cold. After 150 miles I stopped for fuel and checkup. Shut it down to let it soak for a few minutes. Upon start up the coolant was 98°c and quickly went to 84-85° and maintained that the rest of the way home. Ft. Lauderdale was about 90-91°f ambient so maybe that is why? Any how I think it is awesome to have a problem of running too cold. I will probably just swap the thermostat back to factory and see what happens. I took it out last night and drove quite a bit before she would go above 69°. It seems once it finally gets into the low 80s it will just stay there. This is with no boost of course. Oil temps were 190-200 which seem a little high just cruising with not much boost, but well within limits for some stop and go.
Inwill throw some pics in later. Other than that we will have to wait until she gets tuned to see how everything comes together. Jesus don't fail me now!!!!

 

 

 

Where are you measuring your oil temps?

The turbos look minty BTW

 

SakebomSakebomb's oil pedestal with aem gauge.

I am excited to see what kind of power the turbos will make. Although I will probably keep them around 12-13psi.

 

200 after the coolers is a little warm. Do you have good ducting around the coolers.

If it's stop and go, it might just be you're not getting any airflow across them.

And what oil Tstat are you using and where is it

 

We decided to leave the Tstat out again as before the temps seem to be perfect. I will have to look at the ducting again. That could be the issue as the coolers are right up against the inlets. Just not touching.
edit.
yeah it is definitely something I need to look at. Now that I think of it I was running 185 on the oil the 1st hour omw home... which is beautiful, but no boost and not that hot outside is definitely not so good. Never got over 199 actually, but still may be too hot going into the future. I think RB says 190-200 is preferred. I wouldn't mind running a little cooler.

 

So the engine bay is pretty much the way it will stay. I need to connect the water/meth nozzle and probably should finalize the back portion of my redneck intake. Eventually the engine bay should be painted, but i hope that is not for a very, very long time. I will try a couple little ducting tricks for oil coolers. If i can't get my temps down another 10° or so I am not sure what I will do with that yet. Now that I think of it there is still some ducting that could be done on the rad also.

 

Get a HF bench brake, some HD tin snips (or better a jig saw) and some med gauge AL and go to town. I started with some cardboard to get a rough template





Cut up some old license plates to close the larger openings in my undertray

 

Very nice Tom. I like the license plate! I should get to it pretty soon, it can't be much more difficult than my redneck intake (which dropped the temps from 10°-15°f at the filters).
I think I may wait until I send my tach away for the capacitor repair or whatever is wrong with it. I will try to get anything done that renders it un drivable at the same time.
I am currently trying to finish up the water/meth and just keep getting some miles on it!

 

That's a great plan, enjoy it!

 

So 90°F outside today and I was boosting her a little (6-7). I got the water temp up to a scorching 86°c. Still took forever to warm up so swapping the thermostat out is a must. Saw some oil temps in low 200s at one point so I will definitely try some ducting very soon.
knock is beautiful from what I can see. 8 appears to be the normal... until I boosted and shifted I got one hit up to 21, other than that 16 is the normal "max". I think it normally ran 35 on my last motor. I know there are so many variables to knock and it could all be in my head, but it feels good!

The other night she it hit 8psi on 3/4 throttle. Felt incredible, but curious as to why it hit another 2psi. It's been holding around 6. Is it possible the spring could "wear in" a bit? Probably have about 400 miles on it so far.

 

Water/meth is hooked up. Wow!!!!! I didn't think water only was supposed to affect the ait so much. I let it get to 52°c and the water lowered it very quickly to 27c. I have it on at 2psi and ended up with a max at 8psi. I can't imagine what a little meth would do. This is with the 250 nozzle. Not sure how much it will help when the boost is 12-13 psi.....I would imagine it would still be very effective.

 

Yep, a water injection setup does wonders for intake air temps. Makes every day a cool 50 degree day!

Also cleans the inside of the engine big time, I just built an engine for a friend that has been running WI and the rotors barely needed any cleaning.

Dale

 

Very nice to hear. I am hoping the 250 nozzle will be adequate. I may swap it for the 500 after we street tune it and maybe see how she does on the dyno with both. I just want to make sure I am taking advantage of it. At current boost it is probably fine. I am thinking mid June to get it tuned...

 

Silly question, does the AI module track RPM and MAP? Or, just pressure. Because if you only ramped volume by pressure, one would see a lower ratio of "water per stroke" as RPMs rise. But, I figured there are a range of injection controllers which probably address this.