If you are upgrading the diff you can get the RX-8 diff (with 4.44 ring and pinion) dirt cheap used on Ebay, I've see the whole diff go for about $100 or so.

Also, many single turbo guys are looking for the 3.90's so you should be able to sell those on to recoup some costs.

Dale

 

I am hunting so I will definitely check it out Dale. I am sure 1st gear goes really quick with a 4.44

 

Well, unfortunately I must update my build thread with a teardown. I have blown an apex seal on the front rotor. It is unfortunate also that I fall into the realm of midpipe disasters as this is what I was playing with when she went. Why? I have no idea yet. AFRs were in the 10s at almost 14psi. I turned the boost controller all the way down so it was running off the spring basically. She would creep up to around 13 close to redline. I was on a back road, It was pretty warm, and towards the end of a 2nd gear pull 7200rpm .89 (12.9psi) I went slightly airborne from a dip in the road and right as the car settled back down she popped. Sounded like electrical discharges, or like a buzzer at the end of a basketball game. Lol, the I lose buzzer I guess.
injector duty was at 76%, I had new plugs, new coils, new fuel pump, etc, etc. We will see how the motor looks inside soon enough.
I will post some positive outlooks for the future soon.
One thing that is 100% sure. Water/meth. Vented Hood probably seibon KS

Not sure on
BNR stage 3 or single
Haltech with some protection or stay PFC
Brand new mazda motor or new housings with port and cooling mods.

 

Damn that sucks. Who built the engine?

 

It was a Pettit engine. It supposedly only had 3500 miles on it. That was the word of Cam. We will see when I crack it open.

 

Cam is usually very good. I use Kilo for engine, single turbos and tuning. I use Cam for cooling,suspension and brakes. Everything else I do myself.

 

Well the map in the ecu seemed ok by a couple different people. I never doubted RP as the afrs all seemed good. The timing was relatively
conservative according to a few. Only semi questionable thing was the pri/sec transition % was set to 65. Questionable by a couple guys opinions. I do not know enough knkedge to comment. Some are saying it should be around 40.

My engine harness isnt bad at all, but I may end up ordering a brand new one from Mazda. I still need to check the harness from the fuel pump. I never did the fuel pump wire mod, but again we are not talking 14psi when this thing blew. It wasnt even 13psi according to the commander display. I may end up replacing that as well and doing the mod. I will probably buy new bosch 2200id injectors.
The alternator will be rebuilt and upgraded to higher amp even though it works without flaw right now.

That's all the update for now. I am really leaning towards BNR stage 3 right now, but I want to know if anyone has lower ait than the stock twins. I may make a thread asking as I have not seen any thread related. I am also thinking to have an engine built with ALS super seals knowing that it may chew up housings a bit early. I will start rebuilding another on the side or by a new mazda created motor to put in storage. Thats about all for now.

 

Top is the front leading plug, bottom is rear leading.

 

 

3/4 at least of 96 octane, premix. I just topped it off before midpipe install. Maybe 30 miles after that max.

 

I vote for bnr and new OEM harness I bought new harness and charge harness and glad I did. The car only had 75k miles or so and the harness looked ok but it was a good feeling knowing the harness is new.

 

Plugs look clean for a car that should be tuned rich. Did you test the fuel pressure. If the timing was good and the fuel map, i'd look to see if the fuel system was working. Next would be to check your coils, but my guess is they are working, otherwise the plugs would look more fouled.

 

I am thinking BNR 90% as of now. This car supposedly had 53k on the odometer. I dont think the harness looks bad, but I want to swap it anyway.
I have to see how many harness are on this thing.

 

Those plugs probably have less than 200 miles. I just replaced them after I installed the secondaries as it was very flooded.
Coils will be checked soon. The leading is a brand new Denso. I am thinking about getting rid of the hks twin power since it could be another failure point. No indication that there is something wrong with it, but not sure of I want to keep it. I will be running water/meth so I may want to.
I am very curious about the pump (which is brand new Denso supra). I am curious for the wiring.
ducks when you try to put everything in proper order and she still blows up damnit.

 

I have read of HKS TP failures, but think it's a rare occurance. Working, they are an improvement over the stock ignition

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...rison-1103125/

Even with a TP, the location of the stock coils suck. Better is to relocate them from under the UIM and even better is to upgrade to AEM coils.

On the fueling side, how old is your fuel filter? If that clogs, there goes your fuel pressure.

 

I dont see how an ignition could cause this.

As for the fuel filter as embarrassing as it is I never changed it. I went off someone's word like the FPR. It supposedly only had had sub 4000 on it (3000-3500 since I bought it). AFTER SEEING THE FPR I should have replaced it. I think I just kind of forgot about it and planned on it with my diff rebuild.

This happened when I hit a huge bump and went almost airborne. I am trying to keep that in mind even though it could have been coincidental.

it very well could have been the fuel filter. I am out of town for a few days. I have to wait.😣

 

 

So rebuild time is coming up sooner than later. Here is what I am thinking. If anyone has input please feel free comment. I am starting to piece things together.

Internally anything that needs replaced will be replaced with new. If this motor actually has advertised 3k miles the housings should be beautiful unless they got torn up from the apex. Either way if new housings are needed they will be bought. All seals will be replaced with new regardless. Plus the following.
1. Rotors polished
2. Rotating assembly balanced. I dont care if it is usually done only on motors pushing over 8k.
3. Stronger apex seals. I dont care if it will chew housings quicker than the Mazda 2mm. I will use extra premix and deal with it in the future.
4. Stainless oil inj lines
5. IRP upgraded water pump ( if this is really a thing??). New radiator. I am leaning towards a Mishimoto, but unsure yet.
* I may have some grooves done around the coolant passages at the sparkplug. I have to see the bang vs reward 1st.
All new hoses. May do a fan upgrade like the RX8.
6. Xcessive LIM coated with a barrier. Coating on the UIM (barrier on bottom and dispersant on top)
7. Aggressive street port. Aggressive as possible while maintaining decent idle.
8. I will send all 4 injectors to be cleaned and returned again. Will retain the new 2200s with RP rail if all is well with the Xcessive lim.
9. Staying with Apexi PFC for now. Possible Haltech in near future.
10. New engine harness. I think mine is in good shape, but we are not playing this game.
11. AEM water/meth inj. Simple boost activated setup.
12. Efini SP Twin Turbos. I will stay sequential and get a coating on exhaust manifold. Possible BNR, but pretty sure I will go with SP as I have been hearing good things. All solenoid will be tested and replaced if needed. It is already simplified and all hoses where just replaced.
13. Apexi 3 bar sensor
14. Keeping supra pump, but new harness and wire mod for voltage. Relocate and new fuel filter.
15. Finish my intake setup for some cooler air. Just some duct work and I may add a fan to pull some air in.
16. Vented hood. No way in hell it wont help in the Miami heat.
17. Damn good builder
18. Damn good tuner

Please let me know if anyone can think of anything else needed. I am looking for an over built 340-360whp car.

 

Who is doing the build?

 

Tuner is important

 

as mentioned above the fact that you were nearly WOT and jumped the car airborne immediately before blowing a seal is a pretty good indication that you had a temporary fuel starvation issue. most likely due to a temporary drop in voltage, a loss in signal to the injectors, or the fuel just starved due to a slosh. going to go ahead and assume you weren't logging?

 

Of course I had just received the datalogit and was going to hook it up right when I got home and start logging..... and I was omw home. Go figure.
I agree with the fue starvation, but I would like to be 100% sure. I will be taking all the precautions for no fuel starvation under any circumstances regardless. What we find in the motor.

I have a few months of parting things together. I think I will finish up my brakes and stereo on the mean time.

As for the builder and tuner I wont say yet, but it will someone who knows what they are doing and is still strong in the game.

 

Are you happy with that rotary performance rail? Thinking about picking one up

 

AE I have 0 issue with the rail. I think the quality is there and the fit and finish is good. If I was single turbo and showing things off in the engine bay it would be a nice addition. I only ran it a couple hundred miles if that.

 

Who is going to rebuild the motor for you?