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Right after my Day 91 post, William Mac told me Sevenstock23 was cancelled... WHAT !?!?!?!
Well due to my work changing a planned trip I was not going to be able to make it at all. But, ironically my job was have a car show on 10/21/21 (just passed). I was able to make it to the car show and suddenly the 1.5 years working every weekend paid off. The car is far from done, but it was good enough to drive on the trailer, get to work and then drive into the car show.
I was also able to give it a little gas and verify the 2nd turbo kicking in and WOW !!. Even at 7 PSI it felt great. At 3/4 throttle pri turbo is at full boost by 2700 rpm, then around 4500 rpm I had a small dip and then it shot right back up to 7 PSI when the sec turbo kicked in. I was so friggin happy that all that craziness with the modified solenoid rack and vacuum lines actually worked. I let off at 6k rpm and just chilled. I also notice that under boost the AFR's are nice in the mid 12's. I see now I just need to get my idle and free rev AFR's in check.
Behind the scenes the night before the car show. It was a nightmare!
I took of work early to get the car ready and to get the Uhaul by 1830. I filled the car with full concentrate sierra the night before so all I "thought" I had to so was top it off, then warm up the car, then get the Uhaul and come back home, load the car and then drop the car and trailer off at work by 8pm. I live in a sketchy area so I did not want to leave the car on the trailer in the street overnight.
I started the car and I monitored the PFC and prosport gauges and I was only able to get up to 49C or about 120F. I noticed the gauge on the dash was already 1/2 way. The car ran like crap with PFC setting for a cold temp engine even though the actual engine was getting hot, oil temps were 220F. Crap, I have an air pocket somewhere and the thermostat is not getting hot enough to open up. I was desperate, I grabbed the heat gun and started heating the area where the thermostat was, I even took the cap off and try to heat the inside up. I got up to 61C / 142F. I started the car and no change to the PFC prosport temps but the needle on the dash started to go above half way, I think I saw it as high as 3/4, once again the engine damn near over heated. Fawk, Fawk, Fawk, and more Fawking Fawkity Fawk Fawk and it's starting to rain too! I put my head down into my hands and remembered reading about drilling the thermostat with holes to help the EVAN's coolant flow better since it does not heat up as fast, but also that's how I can get the coolant past the thermostat in closed position. Right now I am full sierra concentrate and aside from being under pressure it should perform similar to the EVAN's based a thread I found posted by arghx.
Back to my story, I drained the radiator just so the coolant was towards the bottom of the AST. I pulled off the strut tower bar so I can pull off my custom oil catch can and bracket holding it, unbolted the AST from the custom bracket and unscrewed the thermostat housing. As expected NO water came out from the engine side. I pulled out the thermostat and drilled 6 small 1/8 holes. My main concern was getting the system bled and verifying the car would run cooler. Within an hour I everything back together and filled the system with 2+ gallons and tried to start the car again.
By this time the car had already cooled down, I tried to start the car and she fired right up in her usual expected way since she's running pig rich. Yes, my car is a woman because I have to baby her or she gets temperamental on me. The car did take longer to warm up but the water and oil temps stayed the same. It kind of slowly crept up to 85C and stayed there for 5 minutes then I shut it down. I was off to Uhaul to get the trailer and made it there by 1815.
I get back to the house and move all the cars to get the RX7 out, which is a pain since I have to drive it off the lift at an angle, which resulted in the downpipe hitting the rubber mat on the lift and it ripped the wrap, lets add re-wrapping the downpipe -again - to the list. The next obstacle was to get the car on the trailer. In the front of the trailer where the front tires are supposed to hit are some big tall metal extensions that Uhaul has bolted on to prevent your car from going too far forward. Going in reverse the exhaust would hit it and I would not be able to get out because the wheel cover for the trailer only folds down on the left side. These stops would prevent to car from going forward as they would smash into the bottom of the oil coolers. But as I mentioned before, they were "bolted in".. lol Such a joy being able to see the obvious, I unbolted them and drove the car up and everything cleared with no issues. I was actually surprised that the door cleared the where the wheel cover flips down, I thought would hit the tops of the tires. Now the car is on the trailer it was already 2030. I wanted to bring my car to work so the swing shift and graveyard guys could see it but it was not going to happen.
Where am I going to park this set-up overnight. I have a long driveway between the houses, but it is only wide enough for one car. I was able to pull straight in with the FJ and the trailer fit in the front part of the driveway since it cannot get past the front of the house. I cleaned everything in the driveway to protect it from the rain, took off the custom license plate so no one could steal it, took off my wet clothes and had a nice hot shower. I tried to sleep but I found myself waking up every hour looking at the camera pointing at the 7 on the trailer in the driveway.
The day of the show. I woke up at 0400, got ready, but my custom license plate back on, and was on my way. I got to work pulled the car off and drove it to another area to show the graveyard guys and then drove to the show area. There were some really cool cars there, a 1930 Model A, 2000 GTS Viper, a Ferrari 360 Spyder and a few others. I was flattered that the Viper and Ferrari guy loved my car, we all agreed the 3rd Gen RX7's just holds a special place in everyone's heart. It was during the show I realized I forgot my sierra coolant at home, off to a nearby NAPA to get some more. I get to the car and to coolant was down to the halfway point in the AST. From warming for 10 minutes and driving it 3 to 4 miles, it looks like it leaks on average 1/2 capacity of the AST. Remember this is still pressurized and I still do not have a single drop hitting the ground when sitting and when at idle, but I see it collecting on the side of the engine. It is slow enough for the exhaust to burn it off, I do not see any steam on the outside as well as it is being burned off. Anyways I add the coolant and hang out for a bit with my co-workers at the car show and then head back to hook the trailer up. I get to the trailer and someone has squeezed in front of it and behind my co-workers car. Seriously, really, ok my fault because I did not prepare for this with a note, a cone or a stanchion. But you would think, someone needs to get the trailer. Luckily after asking a few people I found the guy and we agreed to meet in 30 min. After I thanked him for moving his car he just glanced at me and said something like "no problem". I guess I ruined his day.
While I was waiting for the guy to move his car I drove my RX7 from the show and gave it a little gas to get the sec turbo to kick in and to hear the awesome HKS BOV. I loaded up the car onto the trailer and drove to another area to show my swing shift buddies before heading home. It was a good day, aside from all the obstacles, I felt happy because my damn car was running.
On the way home I stopped by San Leandro Mazda.
They have the Speedsource #70 RX8 and the Mazda 6 Turbo Diesel in the showroom.
One of the guys there said the driver of the Speedsource RX8 owns the dealership and the 2 cars, the drivers name is Tremblay. I remember watching him race when I had my RX8, so cool to see this car in person. It was cool to see the guys checking out my RX7 as well. I continued on home, exhausted from the whole day, think I still have to unload everything and get the trailer back still. I got home, unloaded the RX7 in the driveway and pulled my van right behind it to kind of hide it and got the Uhaul trailer back to the store by 1805. I went right back home and the first thing I did was re-position the lift so that I could back out at the right angle instead off risking to hit the downpipe again. I had the RX7 in its storage space again - lol, moved all the cars to their normal parking spots and got all my belongings from the cars so I will not wake up to broken windows.
That is a behind the scenes of what I went through to make this car show happen - and it was worth it!
I feel content. Now I just have to do a more small things. I did try the Splitfire and I definitely did see a change when I hit the switch but I'm going to say I did not like what I saw. With it off I had a nice strong single spark. When I hit the switch the spark just scattered between the 4 points and looked weak. I do not know if it is because of the rotary spark plug with the 4 block instead of the curved tip, but the splitfire is a no go for me.
Next weekend I will pull the splitfire it out. I have my new ignition harness, I will install the HKS Twin Power. I will drain the coolant system of the sierra and take off the throttle body to adjust the dashpot, base idle, TPS to .39v at base idle and the warm up idle cam to work. I did adjust the thermowax screw but I think the other screw on the warm up cam is not set-right and it is not allowing the throttle body to close enough. I will know more once I have it off.
Sorry to everyone for sevenstock 23 being cancelled. What a bummer. Well my 2022 goal is to have the body kit and lighting done - so hopefully I will have that done for next year's sevenstock.
I also wanted to share some other photos. I once had an RX8, I had MS02's, a custom FEED style spoiler and an Exhaust I made. This was back when I wanted to make stuff for the RX8. Now I just want to chill and finish my stuff for now. I have 3 small dogs, 2 maltase terrier mix and 1 yorkie terrier mix. They do not shed we constantly have to cut their hair. The pics I normally post are of Junior, I found some more and it is incredible of the love he has. He is always at my side or trying to give me kisses. Here are a few more pics of him.
does anybody have a screen shot of settings 5 in FC edit for 550pri / id2000 sec. for use with the xcessive LIM. I read that you do not need to offset the sec injectors from each other since the xcessive lim has equal runners.
I have been reading to set base fp at 43.5 psi for the id2000, but then it would affect the 550 pri at idle.. yes?
I will unplug the sec inj this weekend to verify if they are firing at idle or my primarys are pushing too much fuel.
Totally forgot to unplug the secondary injectors to verify any change in the AFR.
Car runs smooth as hell though, no stumble, no hesitation - only running on spring but hits hard when the sec turbo kicks in. The wastegate is ported.
I wonder how it will spool at lower rpm using the sharp feather on the greddy bc.
I'm so happy I'm just running rich and need a fuel trim.
The cool thing about the modified secondary injector rail is the easy access to the injectors.
Un-plugged the secondary injectors and started the car - no change in anything and still running pig rich at 10.3.
I plugged the secondaries back in, swapped the new IGN harness in and plugged in the HKS Twin power (not in its final location) and the car started a tiny bit better at cold, but still ran rich.
I also got an USB extension for the laptop so I can get it move it around more.
Im super happy that when I chopped up my harness that I did not screw something up putting it back together.
Looks like I will need just a fuel trim as Daniel Kuo said, I just needed to make sure that I had no other issues.
The base map I have was made for a car with an IGN-1A set up like I was supposed to have, now I have stock ignition so I just need to figure out how to cut fuel during idle and no load rev,
Car is still on full sierra until I can get the AFR set at idle. Car runs good under boost at stock 7psi spring, even trough the transition.
I made a gmail account so I could join the google group, there is alot of cool stuff on there and I highly recommend it if you want to learn how tune your car yourself.
Contact arghx for an invite.
Ive seen the post I linked in my thread, the EG/PG vs evans helped me out because i bought a used motor with an external coolant seal leak.
I am running full concentrate PG sierra at "0 psi" without over heating. I have removed the bottom gasket on the AST cap.
I'm hoping it will expand and contract so I can use the overflow tank as an additional reservoir. lol.
I can only run for about 20 minutes until I have to add more fluid, but I'm getting by without evans to move the car around and drive it to a gas station and back.
So if you have an external coolant seal failure, you can run PG full concentrate sierra at 0 psi to get you by to move the car around.
I met up with Daniel Kuo and he helped me sort out my rich idle - just needed a fuel trim.
Now I can take the throttle body off and set everything up correctly.
mikejokichMy major 1994 USDM Touring modifications pertinent to this discussion (bold most important): rotaryextreme - My major 1995 USDM Touring modifications pertinent to this discussion (bold most important):
mikejokich - 550 pri / ID2200 sec (ID2000?) / rotaryextreme - 550 pri / ID2000 sec (ID2200?) ID2000 flow 2200 at 43.5psi setting, I read 2000 at 40psi setting.
mikejokich -modified fuel basemap for the cruise region- AFR's set to low 15'sin cruise region / rotaryextreme - basemap is tuned for high 11's low 12's
mikejokich -3mm apex seal street ported 13B- last rebuild in 2014 / rotaryextreme - ported exhaust, probably makes the turbos spool more at idle
mikejokich -Twin sequential Hitachi HT12-3KAI SP turbos / rotaryextreme - 99 spec turbos with BNR stage 1 drop in's, flows more then stock
mikejokich -Power FC with Datalogit with all table upgrades for IGN, injector transition, adjusted PIM, etc. rotaryextreme - running PFC, base tune by Daniel Kuo to get the car running (donor from another car)
mikejokich -Apexi 3 bar MAP sensor / rotaryextreme - stock 2 bar
mikejokich -Fast AIT sensor still in stock location in UIM / rotaryextreme - Fast IAT in Greddy Elbow
mikejokich -Post turbo EGT sensor and pre-IC temperature sensor / rotaryextreme - post turbo EGT sensor
mikejokich -ported exhaust and turbo manifolds, extrude honed UIM and LIM, RC ported throttle body / rotaryextreme - xcessive LIM
mikejokich -SMB large bellow downpipe with at least 3” or more piping throughout with a RSR catback / rotaryextreme - 3 inch downpipe, 3 inch cat, apexi N1 Dual
mikejokich -Vibrant racing metal cat rated for over 500rwhp / rotaryextreme - rx7.com bonez cat
mikejokich -dual bank U-type Australian SMIC / rotaryextreme - twin track vm kit (turbos have separate outlet pipes to the IC).
mikejokich -Autoexe air intake (ram air) through Abflug scoop bumper with a 500cfm PWM controlled induction fan / rotaryextreme - HKS RS Intake kit (no air pump)
mikejokich -all intake and exhaust pipes, turbos, and IC are ceramic coated with either barrier or dispersant rotaryextreme - fiberglass wrapped downpipe and rattle can glitter paint on all intake, intercooler, tb, uim and lim ... lol.
Last edited by rotaryextreme; 11-09-21 at 12:22 PM.
Car runs almost perfect - At idle or when I hit the gas while driving it goes lean 16's AFR for a second then goes rich high 11's like it should be. At idle it causes the car to die, while driving I just see the AFR gauge hitting 16's for a sec but the car runs smooth with no hesitation. Car is smooth through the primary / secondary turbo transition. I just have this throttle tip in issue. I thought I had the TPS / AAS / TAS all sorted it but maybe I'm my worst enemy. I also verified my relocated cruise control works. YAY !!
Part 1. Coolant Overflow
Part 2. Re-Aligning The Aluminum Scuff Guards
Part 3. Cool Fan Relay Bracket
Part 4. HKS Twin Power Install
Part 5. Idle Warm Up Cam
Part 6. Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge
Part 7. REDARC Dual Sense Battery Isolator
Part 8. Engine Bay Finally Done
Part 1. Coolant Overflow
Whenever I start the car the first thing I do is check the coolant level when cold. I have a Pettit AST and it is usually 1/4 full. I fill up the AST and top off the fill neck and close the caps. Every time I have done this it has always been 1/4 full in the AST tank. I do not see any coolant on the ground under the engine, I do not see any steam from the coolant burning on the exhaust manifold, so where the hell is it going. I knew the coolant expanded and contracted but just not as much as I finally witnessed. The car was running and temps were normal and then I saw a big puddle of coolant coming from the front right corner of the car. I initially thought the coolant seal gave out but when I looked under the car the coolant was leaking from the overflow tank. Then I had a revelation - This whole entire time I have been adding coolant when cold and as it expands it goes into the overflow tank, BUT, I believe it is unable to suck the coolant back into the system as it cools and shrinks because I do not have a good seal which causes a vacuum leak.
To test this, I sucked all the coolant out of the overflow, and I let the car warm up fully and checked the level with the caps off, it expanded from 1/4 full to right below where the bottom seal is on the AST cap and then added a little fluid to top it off. I cycled the car from hot to cold, I checked the car at hot and each time I only had to add just a little bit. The car runs for 15 to 20 min each time. I’m also running zero pressure which drastically slowed down the amount of coolant that leaks out. The car gets up to about 93C after a 20 minute drive. I do have the 6 small 1/8th holes drilled into the thermostat to help with the warm up and expansion of the fluid. I’m thinking about buying another thermostat and putting 2 holes in it this time to try and keep the coolant in the radiator longer to see if the temps will lower at all.
Now that Daniel Kuo helped me with my idle AFR’s I wanted to drain the coolant so I could remove the throttle body and set the warm up cam separation points. Later on I figured out how to adjust the warm up cam without removing the throttle body which is covered in Part 5. I have the LRB VM undertray which has big rotor holes to allow the fans to blow downward and to allow the air going under the car to extract the heat away. The drain plug on my Koyo radiator barely clears one of the rotor cut outs so I shaved a small half circle to clear the fluid as it drains. At first the fluid clears but as the flow reduces, the stream moves towards the edge of the drain hole. Luckily, I got the cut out right on the first try.
Part 2. Re-Aligning The Aluminum Scuff Guards
Oh how silly of me. The first time I put the scuff plates down I just eye balled it and slide it back and forth until it felt like it was in a good position – that’s what she said. One day I noticed the door weather stripping was sitting right at the edge, then I looked closer and saw the marks from where the original plastic trim sat. Both sides were off, the driver’s side more though. I re-positioned the scuff plate, drilled new holes, and installed some more rivnuts. Both sides are now lined up to match where the original plastic was. So, the moral of the story is pay a little more attention in putting it in the right place instead of just slamming it in there – that’s also what she said.
Part 3. Cool Fan Relay Bracket
The stock fan relay bracket is an eyesore. I have been fighting with it from the beginning with all the VM kits I have ever made since it gets in the way of some intakes. I am a fan of JP3 products, and I came across their fan relay bracket and I almost bought it, except I can make my own brackets. I ended up whipping out a bracket, complete with rough edges and crappy looking welds that I knew the paint will hide. I made it with 2 long post so 2 relays can fit on each one. I wanted to have a little fun with the paint, so I put some tape on the flat section and drew my company logo, then I cut the symbol out with a razor blade. I painted it with the appliance epoxy black, removed the taped symbol and laughed at myself for one of the coolest homemade brackets I’ve made. Yes, I have made fancier stuff, but for some reason this bracket made me smile. It looked like it was made with love.
Part 4. HKS Twin Power Install
I removed the Splitfire DMax Spark. It only tries to amplify the leading coil spark. The STOCK spark looked strong like a lightning bolt. When I turned on the DMax, the spark looked weaker and was fighting between the 4 blocks on the end of the spark plug. There were not multiple sparks, just one weak *** spark that could not make up it’s mind on where to go. I would not recommend this product for the rotary since it does not amplify the trailing and works like crap with this type of spark plug. I found a big button clip to cover the hole and scratches made by the Splitfire bracket on my driver side kick panel. I looked at other HKS Twin Power installations and saw some near the pop-up headlight. I ran the HKS Twin Power extension harness to make sure it was possible with my coils in the cruise control location. Everything fit, I installed the ignition coils, cleaned the ground connection for the HKS Twin Power ground wire and now it was time to make a bracket to hold the HKS Twin Power. The HKS Twin Power fits on top of the relocated cruise control, I put a rubber bumper on the bottom so it does not vibrate against the cruise control and another rubber bumper on the back to prevent the metal body from hitting the battery fuse box positive terminal. I made a small bracket to hold it in place, The HKS Twin Power does not touch the red positive cover, it just sits closely next to it.
Part 5. Idle Warm Up Cam
As mentioned in Part 1, I wanted to take off the throttle body for a clearer picture on the new adjustment required. The first time I had the TB off I had a different base idle when the car was running rich. After Daniel Kuo fixed my AFR at idle I had to readjust the TAS to get my idle around 900 RPM. This threw off my warm up setting when the roller separates from the cam as the thermowax extends out.
Now that my TB base idle is set, I removed the TB and moved the cam through its range of motion and set the separation point between the roller and the cam. I put everything back together and adjusted the TPS to match. I held the thermowax arm down and verified when the throttle plate is hitting the throttle adjustment screw (TAS) it was reading 0.40 volt. I released the arm with the set screw to rest against the thermowax and verified the throttle plate showed a value of 0.70 volt. The air adjustment screw (AAS) is approximately 1.5 turns out. I started the car and it finally warmed up like it is supposed to and then settled in at around 900 +/- 20 RPM. I still have the hesitation at throttle tip in. When I blip the gas at idle it dies, while driving it goes lean for a sec then back to normal. I checked the Idle by turning on the lights and it dropped to about 800 RPM then went back up. As the car was warming up, it went up to about 1300 RPM. Great, I need to adjust the roller where it hits the cam to make the RPM higher. It’s such a pain to do this because the head of the screw is so close to the nipple that goes to the MAP sensor on my car. I was finally able to make an adjustment by taking off the IAC valve and pulling the MAP sensor hose off the nipple to allow the flat head to line up with the screw. I think I will replace this with an allen head in the future. The dashpot would not screw in enough for the new idle setting so I shaved the jam nut in half - problem solved. I'm sure I have a bigger issue than that.
I spoke with Daniel Kuo and he recommended me to set my TPS at 0.50 volt to 0.55 volt warmed up. The next day that was the first thing I did before starting the car. I held the thermowax arm down to get the throttle plate to rest against the TAS, then I set the TPS to 0.54 volt. The coolant was cold so I checked the level in the AST before warm up, it was just ½ inch from the bottom sealing hole so I was good to go. Maybe the coolant is starting to create a seal from being burned up by the exhaust, who knows? I started the car and after a few minutes I’m around 1500 RPM then it starts to settle down to 900 +/- 20 RPM. Awesome, the warm up cam it right where I want it. As it went past 60C on the PFC I turned the screw against the thermowax rod to separate the cam from the roller to allow the throttle to seat against the TAS. I turned on the lights and the idle stayed at the same RPM. It seems for my set-up the idle air control (IAC) works with the TPS setting at 0.40 volt and 0.54 volt. When I blip the throttle I still have the same issue where the car dies, although I did not go for a test drive. Really there is no need to test drive if it does it at idle, the problem is still there.
I remember when I had Daniel Kuo’s base map I did not have this tip in problem at idle, but I was also pig rich at 10.3 AFR to begin with. When I ran his map through FC Tweak a lot of things were changed. Last night I compared my latest FC Tweak map with the original base map from Daniel Kuo and made some changes in the settings tabs back to what he had set. I also set my car to small street port in FC tweak since I do have ported exhaust. I’m sure I am flowing more air at idle because of my overall set-up. I ran it through FC Tweak again and this time FC Tweak left most of his setting alone.
I did some more research and came across a thread by mikejokich about having similar issues and fixed it by adjusting the accelerator enrichment (AE) settings.
I used mikejokich’s "recommended starting tables" in his Acceleration Enrichment with Quick Guide word document with one small change recommended by FC Tweak. inj vs Accel TPS1
TPS (V/t) 0.039 = OK
Setting 0.20, FC Tweak changed it to 0.30. My throttle tip in is much better at idle, I will drive it this Friday 11/12/21 and see if the lean tip in condition went away on the move.
Part 6. Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge
I have this situation where the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel pressure regulator reads 3 to 4 psi lower than the fuel pressure on my gauge in the car which has a pressure sensor in line going from the secondary fuel rail to the FPR. When I set base pressure, it is 40 psi at the FPR gauge and 44 psi on the electronic gauge, I learned to just accept it. Then I saw all these videos about the oil in the gauge warming up and affecting the readings. Most of the videos were of carbureted cars with a psi requirement of 6 to 8 psi. I can see how a difference of 2 psi can make a big problem for carbureted cars, but I think it is not much of a benefit for fuel injected cars. Anyways I bought the gauge to see if it would make a difference when my car is warmed up. It has a small pin you pull up to relieve the pressure and then you push it back down. It can be fully removed and if you lose it then you have to make something to plug the hole. You also must have the pin on the top since it is not a perfect seal and the oil will seep out. I swapped the CJ Motorsports gauge out, which worked fine, and installed the aeromotive one. I warmed the car fully up and pulled the vacuum hose off and plugged the line. I pulled the little pin up and the reading went from 38 psi to 40 psi. Well it works but I do not think it is critical for fuel injection, 2 psi is a lot of difference for carbureted cars so this would be a good gauge to have.
Part 7. REDARC Dual Sense Battery Isolator
I have another situation when the voltage smart relay (VSR) kick in it causes a very small pulsing voltage on the positive side while it charges the second battery. It makes the center 4 gauges oscillate a little bit, but it is not linear because the higher the readings, the greater the oscillation. Example: water temp will read 180F but will bounce between 180F and 185F, when it hits 200F it will bounce between 200F and 215F. I have an All Star Trucking off ebay, it does the job and when it turns on you hear a soft click. I was looking for another VSR and I came across the REDARC Dual sensing start battery isolator 12V (SBI12D).
The REDARC cost 3x more than the one I have but it had the best sales pitch. “The SBI12D has components that prevent the solenoid from generating high voltage transients. It’s better than a diode battery isolator based on the voltage drop associated with a diode type isolation”.
I googled voltage transients to make sure I understood what they meant -Voltage Transients are defined as short duration surges of electrical energy and are the result of the sudden release of energy previously stored or induced by other means, such as heavy inductive loads or lightning.
SOLD !!!!!!
I was sure this would solve my problem, I bought it and installed it and NOPE !! Same thing chicken wing. Well at least my gauges show me that it’s working. I did re-wire the dual battery voltage gauge to always read so that I could monitor the voltage while charging with the neg/grounds discounted from the battery. I ordered and installed some rubber caps to cover the exposed nuts so I do not short anything out. I did notice 2 immediate things with the REDARC, first was how loud it is when the relay clicks. It sounded like a tool was dropped on the back metal panel, it scared the bejeesus out of me. The second thing I noticed was how well it worked, both batteries were reading 14v whereas on the All Star Trucking VSR I saw both batteries reach only 13.4 volts. I like the safety of the other VSR because it tucks the power wires inside. I’ll see how this works for a while to see if I want to switch back.
Part 8. Engine Bay Finally Done
Finally, the engine bay is done. Everything that I need is mounted and has been verified to work. I took some pics with different angles and tried to get some different lighting on it. Overall, I’m super happy that everything worked without any major hic-ups minus the blown external coolant seal. But hey, at least I can get the car sorted out and continue with the build for now. Thanks for watching this saga.
10-22-21, 04:04 PM
