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There's not coolant that goes through that area of the engine, just oil. That RTV looks like just squeeze out from when the engine was built, the "legs" of the rotor housings get RTV to seal the oil pan area.
Look at the picture of the iron, you can see the coolant passages with the water seal grooves on either side. That's the only area in the block that coolant flows.
There's not coolant that goes through that area of the engine, just oil. That RTV looks like just squeeze out from when the engine was built, the "legs" of the rotor housings get RTV to seal the oil pan area.
Look at the picture of the iron, you can see the coolant passages with the water seal grooves on either side. That's the only area in the block that coolant flows.
Dale
Dale,
sorry, maybe I gave a bad example with the circles.
I have attached better example pics.
Behind the bolt it does look like squeeze out
but
on the outside starting below the bolt and going down to the pan It's not squeeze out, you can see the direction of travel is downward and not even and messy on the lower section - this was an additional application.
I have taken 1 gal of coolant out so there is still 1.5 in the engine and radiator. There is no coolant coming out any of the upper hoses, heater hoses, radiator or front housing. Everything is dry except for that one section that still drips.
I think the outer coolant o'ring failed. I hope it is just leaking to the outside and not into the pan. Im tempted to see if that side bolt is not tight enough.
More thinking - Standard procedure is if you have identified a point of failure, what can be done to fix it. If it can not be fixed, what can be done to stop it from getting worse.
I do not know if I want to actually stop the leak on the outside because it will cause the internal failure to spread faster. I only want to slow it down from dripping under pressure to maybe just seeping. I do not want to block the exit point because it is exiting outside the block and hopefully not into the pan. I just need to slow it down so I can tune for drivability to move the car until I get it rebuilt.
But who knows, maybe I accomplish a slow manageable seepage which I can do a dyno tune and do a 1k mile round trip to sevenstock... YEAH BABY !!!
I hope the new pics are better of what Im thinking.
Last edited by rotaryextreme; 09-02-21 at 12:42 PM.
Use a coolant pressure tester and fill and pressurize the system. See if you can track it down. I'm wondering if it's coming from higher up and working its way down.
I don't think I've ever seen an outer coolant seal fail. Typically it's the inner seals that leak into the combustion chamber.
Use a coolant pressure tester and fill and pressurize the system. See if you can track it down. I'm wondering if it's coming from higher up and working its way down.
I don't think I've ever seen an outer coolant seal fail. Typically it's the inner seals that leak into the combustion chamber.
Dale
I know right. But is leaking on the outside of the engine in that lower corner. I will do a pressure test to verify in a few days.
I don't want to mention any names – ( the guy I bought my engine from ) - but that 1 minute burnout video you showed me right before you pulled the motor - it probably blew the outer coolant o’ring between the center and rear rotor housing right next to the exhaust port.
I do believe it was an accident and you just wanted to do something cool before you got out of the rotary game - but it hurt the engine so now it needs a rebuild.
No hard feelings - RX7 owners need to understand buying a used engine equals rebuild - but damn bro I was at least hoping to get of the jack stands first... lol
Want to see an external o'ring failure watch Rob Dham's video.
I finally cleaned up the driveway and took down 3 pop up tents, about 30 ft of covered space. I had to clear everything out behind the car and the clean-up was long overdue. This also allowed me to get my lift in the mix. A guy a few houses down was going through a divorce and he also worked on cars, I scored it for 500 and I just rolled it down the sidewalk. Luckily the car does roll over without scraping but it was so close to the rails I could not get the pinch welds on the car on the lift mounting blocks. I had to lift the car then set it down on some brake rotors to get it on top of the blocks. The blocks are supposed to protect stuff like aero kits and underbody panels. Later I will need to place them in different locations to line up with the holes in the Panspeed side skirts since they wrap under the car.
The lift at full height gives you almost 3 ft under the car and you have full access to the engine and transmission with the piston in the back, you can drive your car the other way if you need to do rear end work. Since I will be spending a lot of time under and around the car, I did not want to leave it on the center support beam for a long time. I grabbed my 4 jacks I had supporting the car earlier and placed it under the lift tracks and lowered it – now I can sleep under it without any worries. Lol. My doggies also roam around the lift and I did not want anything to happen to them, especially Junior since he is always at my side when I work on the car.
2. Warm Up Thermowax
I have a JDM throttle body and as far as I know all I had to do was flip the cam that holds the cable for the cruise control, everything else seemed the same. After reading all the threads on the RX7club about the warmup issue and idle issues I said screw it and took my thermowax out of the loop. I noticed that when I move my throttle body linkage on the gas pedal side the linkage on the thermowax side did not move. I studied it a bit more and then found out the thermowax screw had been back off so that it was no longer in affect.
Now that I had an idea of what was wrong, I went to my bin that contained my USDM throttle body in pieces and I found the little arm for the thermowax that has 3 marks on it for cold and hot position. I turned it to the side and looked at the edge to see the mark for how far the linkage should travel on the other post that moves the primary throttle body that the idle screw is used for. Since I had the throttle body off the car I wanted to see if I could get it adjusted to a good base line. I actually adjusted the hot setting first by using a heat gun and warming up the thermowax until it was full extended and then I adjusted the thermo wax screw until the third mark was past the post and not touching like the mark on the USDM piece, then I adjusted the Idle screw to hold the primary throttle body in that posiotn. Then I let it cool and verified that the thermowax settled at the first mark and that I did have a gap between my idle set screw and the primary throttle body linkage.
I will fine tune it once everything is running again now that I know the 3 places to adjust which is the thermowax cold idle screw, the primary throttle body set screw and the air adjustment screw on the bottom of the throttle body. Now I get to put back in the pipe that will carry coolant from the front cover over the engine and to the bottom of the throttle body – how fun.
3. ECU Coolant Temp Sensor
I broke my upper coolant temp sensor with the green connector, so I bought another one. Last time I messed with it I had the alternator off so I was able to use a wrench but with the alternator on you need a deep socket. I read it was a 19mm so I tried it but the connector got int the way on the inside and the socket slipped and I broke the connector. Anyways I installed the new one using a 3/4 deep socket and it worked perfectly. I guess the inside has more clearance for the connector. I also scuffed the mating surface of the backside of the coolant neck, installed a new crush washer and used some huskey goo that is used to help seal threads. I sure it will still ground fine if not the crush washer will assist in grounding the sensor.
4. Engine Coolant Leak
I wanted to pressure test my coolant system to find the exact spot of the leak. At first I was going to remove the radiator but then I realized I could make an adapter for one of my caps. I also kept the AST in the loop as well to test everything. I noticed a drop of coolant on top of the power steering cooler and then a dry spot under the AST near the weld. I hope it is not a leak.
I pressurized the system and I did not find air bubbles anywhere, (remember that I already drained the coolant) but I did see coolant immediately dripping at the bottom right corner of the engine. I checked the bypass from the rear plate to the front coolant housing, all heater hoses, all turbo hoses and where the crush washers are on the turbo, both temp sensors behind the coolant housing, front cover to engine, water pump and AST hoses. I could hear the pressure valve on the cap of the AST open and then hear the air making bubbles in the overflow tank.
Crap, I have to pull the turbos to inspect the block side. I take out all the sensors and down pipe, (found the leak – more on that later). I start to remove the hard oil return lines from the turbos to the block and find the oil leak – more on that later as well. I manage to pull the turbos off and out of the car without scratching anything. Next was the manifold, I pulled it off and the manifold and engine were dry but I knew immediately the area where the leak from coming from.
I ran another loop from the turbo inlet and outlet water pipes. I pressurized the system again and saw the coolant leaking near the exhaust between the center plate and rear rotor housing. It just weeps like a scrape on your body with little dots of blood. The coolant was running down the exhaust gasket to the point at the bottom and leaking at the back of the engine. Ironically like I said earlier Rob Dham had just posted a video of a goo running engine teardown and to his surprise he had an outer coolant ring failing on him. Crap crap crap and more crap. I used a small hose and a bolt to cap the back of the water housing and I moved my adapter to the hose going to the rear housing and I blew air into there trying to move the coolant away from that area to see if it will stop dripping. It still seeps a tiny bit, but I can keep it dry long enough to apply something.
So, this is my plan. I’m going to strip the paint on the center section near the exhaust, clean it with some acetone and then apply some high temp J/B weld over the section on both sides of the center iron. I will apply I small amount and use a squeegee to make it flat and smooth. Once it is dry and hardened then I will apply some J/B weld high temp exhaust sealant to the back of both manifold to engine gaskets on the side that will be touching the center housing and immediately bolt on the exhaust manifold and let it set for a few days.
When all is cured, I will re-connect the cross over hose from the rear plate to the front coolant housing and pressure test it. If I do not see any coolant, I will add more just to make sure the engine has coolant. If it does not drip awesome, it should hold for a dyno tune and then I can drive it around the block and to the gas station. If it does drip, just a little bit then I will just tune it for a nice idle and a safe rev through the rpm so I can move the car around and get gas. Obviously, this is not advised but the leak, at this moment, is extremely slow and manageable for moving the car and getting to the gas station and back. It doesn’t really leak when it’s sitting, just a few drops in a 24hr period. However, I worked a deal with the wife to allow me to tow the car to Sevenstock with the FJ so at least I have that.
5. Engine Oil Leak
I found the oil leak on the primary turbo return pipe. We all make mistakes, but we all don’t admit it. Well, this mistake was so epic I wanted to share it. I installed the turbos onto the engine when the engine was outside the car. I have no idea how it happened, but the oil gasket shifted in the back and I completely missed the hole. Unbelievable. Now I am just waiting for my oil cooler AN fittings to finish the oil related issues.
It is so nice to see your project finished and running and then see it in pieces the next week. Like Dale said the black high temp paint on the exhaust burned off and left a dark grey residue. I also bought the Banzai cnc AST delete piece with a cool HKS radiator cap. Banzai has been amazing at shipping things out. I basically just thought about buying the part and it was already at my doorstep. Other places take months for the original part and if there is an issue you will be waiting weeks or months again for the problem to be resolved. Well, this part is on hold until I rebuild my engine. I need my AST to act like an additional reservoir for coolant to be pulled from… lol
6. Gasoline Teflon And New Fuel Line
I knew about the Teflon for gas pipes like your oven, dryer and water heater, but I didn’t know they have it for gasoline as well. I read about the normal white Teflon can be hit or miss for general use in terms of the quality and I can attest to that. When I was using the white Teflon, as I pulled it off the spool it would already stretch, and I could even see my fingerprints in it when I touched it. Someone on the rx7club made a comment that the cheap **** is made from plastic bags – I guess I had the cheap **** let alone I used it in the wrong application. I Hope Banzai updates his how to FPD delete for the primary rail with orange gasoline Teflon instead of the white Teflon.
I took off the nasty discombobulation going to the secondary fuel rail so that I could make a better fuel line for the secondary fuel rail and get the primary fuel rail out. On all the places I used the white Teflon tape had became saturated and looked like it was starting to melt away, it was also seeping and not holding a good seal. The gasoline Teflon tape was much thicker, probably 5 times thicker, and it held its shape when un-rolling it. It also took a little tension before it started to stretch. I also noticed that under pressure the tape would turn a darker color. It would almost self-lubricate under pressure as I was able to screw the fittings in a little further than before. I used the gasoline Teflon tape for the FPR gauge, The Prosport fuel pressure sender and the inlet and outlet of the primary fuel rail. I put the primary fuel rail back in and then the secondary rail was bolted into place.
Now that I had the thermowax thing figured out and a base line adjusted on my throttle body I wanted to re-install the coolant lines going to it. I will deal with the cross over pipe going over the engine later but for right now I wanted to put the rear housing to throttle body hose back on. It went on easy but now I am switching all my IDEAL worm drive clamps over to the fuel line hose clamp style. It was tricky to get the clamp lined up since there were so many cables in the way. I had to use a door trim button puller going between the fuel rails in front of the LIM to hold the clamp up and then screwing it tight from behind the LIM going under the primary fuel line.
I ordered one 30-degree 6AN fitting and it took care of all that mess of the secondary fuel line. The 30 degree fitting helps the fuel line clear the thermowax on the throttle body and keeps the fuel pressure sender and a good height. I shortened the other side going to the secondary fuel rail and replaced the 45 degree fitting with a straight. I intended for the sweeping 90 degree bend in the fuel line to help keep the fuel pressure sender level. I did notice that the fuel pressure on my gauge reads a few pounds higher during prime so I will probably have to re-adjust fuel pressure at idle now.
7. Downpipe Leak Fixed
I found the ticking in the exhaust, its coming from the aftermarket downpipe where it mates to the turbos. The hole has one corner that is not providing support for the sealing part of the gasket. I have 2 options. I can buy another high quality downpipe and redo everything or attempt to fill it. I choose to fill because it saves 300 in materials and a few weeks waiting on parts and doing more work. I want to warn you, the pictures look like a hot mess but remember it’s all about the finished product.
I filled the corner starting from the inside and working my way out. I used my grinder to take down the big bulge and then filed the rest flat. It looked like at one point there was a graphite gasket on it. I finished it off with a palm sander. I now have support under the sealing part of the gasket. Lastly, I traced out where the gasket is on the downpipe flange and then shaved down all the extra material for better flow.
Thanks again for flowing / watching / reading.
pics 1. Lift Me Up
Last edited by rotaryextreme; 09-13-21 at 11:05 PM.
I tore down the exhaust side and everything above the LIM to take care of all the issues. While getting ready to put it all back together I noticed some things were off. My lack of knowledge of all the little things on this car has caught up to me. Things were removed and block off plates were used on every possible component, so I just went with what I had.
I also bought FC Tweak and it’s the coolest tuning software out there. It is visually appealing and helps fast track your understanding of how to safely alter the tune on your car. The tuning software helped me realize how much the missing components were hurting my car. FC Tweak is what made me look into the IAC, re-install the thermowax set-up and relocate the fast IAT to the Greddy elbow. I did some research and with consulting with some rotary gurus, it was deemed was necessary to locate an IAC and put it back into the system as well as reconnect the thermowax warm up. My next update, (Day 89) will include the install of the IAC, the relocation of the fast IAT and the rest of the assembly of the car and hopefully get it started again with the new tune. OK, onto this update.
1. Slow Down Coolant Leak
2. Fix Driver Side Floor Mat
3. What's an ISC / IAC and a Fast IAT
4. Pressure Test Engine, Put TB Coolant Pipe Back In
5. Driftjim IGN-1A Harness
6. More Grounds (related to Driftjim harness)
7. Adjust 2nd Turbo Pre Spool Wastegate
8. Turbo's Back In
9. Fix Oil Leak
1. Slow Down Coolant Leak
As we know I have a rare outer coolant o’ring failure near the exhaust port in between the center iron and the rear rotor housing. I decided I would give some JB-Weld paste a try. I figured I would do all locations just to be uniform, I taped a border around the four sections near the exhaust ports. I applied the paste and then removed the tape and let it set for 2 days. Next I wanted to apply another then layer of JB-Weld exhaust sealant to help smooth the transition between the block, the JB-weld hardened paste and the exhaust gasket. I taped off a little larger area and applied the exhaust sealant which has a faster set time of 1 hour. I pulled the tape reviling the new coating and immediately installed the gaskets and the exhaust manifold and tightened it down nice and snug and I let it sit for a day as well and moved onto other work while it dried.
2. Fix Driver Side Floor Mat
I have some JDM RHD pink camo floormats, but they fit a little off on the USDM LHD cars. I made them work but on the driver side the carpet sticks up under the gas pedal and you can only floor it about 75%.... lol. I masked off the area to cut out and went to town with my metal tin snips. I masked the carpet for the black RTV to be applied to stop the threads from unraveling. I let it sit for a day and it cured nicely, and I do not have to worry about it falling apart. I put the floormat in and test fit it and the gas peddle clears with no problem. At a quick glance it almost looks factory.
3. What's an ISC / IAC And A Fast IAT
Well, ISC stands Idle Speed Control and it was later changed to Idle Air Control by Mazda. I didn’t know how important it was, it was already removed from my UIM and I thought it was emission related so it was also one of the connectors I had cut off…. Uuggghhh !!!!
Thank goodness I have been documenting everything and I found my pictures showing the cut off connector and where the wires are in my modified harness. Luckily, they were accessible on top of the back of the engine in a little stub. I cut back the TESA tape and removed the wire loom and found my wires. I make the extension harness with the cut off IAC connector and then re-wrap everything in TESA tape and put the high temp blue zip ties over the last wrap to make sure it does not unravel. On the upper intake manifold (UIM) I removed the block off plate and cleaned up all the black RTV for where the IAC will go.
The IAT is the Intake Air Temperature sensor and it sits on the underside of the UIM. I already upgraded to the Fast IAT sensor but I did not know it could be moved to the intake elbow. I mean, it does not have to be but I read it is more favorable in that location. I used the stock IAT to plug the stock location on the on the UIM. I will have to weld a flat plate to the Greddy elbow so the fast IAT mating surface seals properly. I have not picked a final spot yet but I will probably have to extend that harness as well.
4. Pressure Test Engine, Put TB Coolant Pipe Back In
It had been a few days since I applied the JB-Weld and it was time to pressure test the coolant system. The AST is hooked up, the turbos are bypassed and I’m adding air through the back TB coolant hose on the rear iron that goes to the throttle body (TB). I pump it up until I hear the cap open up on the AST letting me know I’m hitting the 0.9 bar or so and I can hear the air making bubbles in the overflow tank. I honestly think the cap is opening earlier or leaking because I can hear faint bubbles in the overflow tank even at 0.7 bar. I do like the pull lever so I can release the pressure without removing the cap. I checked for coolant leaking from the side of the engine and I did not feel any coolant leaking. I left the system pressurized for over an hour and I still had 0.7 bar, I pulled the lever and released the air and called it good to go. I hope I slowed down the leak enough so it only get’s wet around that area, just no dripping.
Now that I understand fully how to adjust the thermowax I wanted to put it back into the system. I had to unbolt a bunch of brackets to finagle it back into place. I also replaced all of the worm drive clamps with fuel line style clamps. Just like Dale said “I cringe when I see those because they cut into the hose”, well that’s an approximate quote but now I cringe too. Maybe bigger hoses might not be so bad but for small hoses I now see it matters. One of my hoses has a small cut, I used the screwdriver tip to pull the hose to show a better example of it. Damn, really… luckily the fuel line clamp holds before that cut.
5. Driftjim IGN-1A Harness
This is not a knock against IRP, this is just a schedule thing. I did receive my replacement harness from IRP so now I can install it. I bought the Driftjim IGN-1A harness as a back-up just in case my IRP harness did not arrive in time to go to Sevenstock 23. The Driftjim harness is robust and uses thick gauge wire and is made with good quality. Driftjim has many configurations, even a frame rail one, and he can taylor the lengths to your needs. He will also provide the IGNL and IGNT dwell times for use with his harness as well. Driftjim’s harness connections are power, ground and negative battery terminal.
6. More Grounds (related to Driftjim harness)
In the instructions of Driftjims harness he mentions it is imperative that you have proper grounding in your car with MINIMUM 4-gauge wire from your engine to battery and from the engine to chassis. Long story short I surfed around the net and it seems like you want the engine to be the center of a star pattern ground point and not get caught up in a ground loop. You want a star pattern so it would be engine to battery, engine to chassis, engine to ECU and so on. Not a ground loop where you have engine to battery, then battery to ECU then ECU to chassis – you get the point.
When I relocated my battery to the rear bin area, I only grounded the battery to chassis. Thinking back to the stock set-up, it has a thick ground wire going from the neg terminal on the battery to the chassis and then to the engine. I realized I was now missing the neg battery to engine section. I got some copper 4 AWG welding wire from windy nation. It was 15ft, came with heat shrink tubing and different sized bolt hole crimp on terminals. BIG TIP, coat your cable with dish washing soap so it moves through the grommet easily. I ran the Driftjim negative bat connection and the 4 AWG together through the fender and through the wheel well grommet and into the driver’s side kick panel area. I looped the side in the engine bay from the engine to chassis and then put a clamp on all the cables in the wheel well to keep them from moving. In the engine bay I cut the folded back part and crimped the 3 ends for the engine to chassis and the engine to battery runs. I tucked the cables under the carpet and ran them into the driver side battery area. I put everything back together, installed the coils and the sparkplug wires – then my IRP replacement harness showed up the next day. LOL
Next update will include the re-routing of the IRP harness along with some changing of some ground positions. I will repurpose the battery negative terminal line from the Driftjim harness for the IRP negative battery run. I will also try to move the grounds from the bracket holding the clutch line to the engine as well.
7. Adjust 2nd Turbo Pre-Spool Wastegate
I completely missed this one due to lack of knowledge and experience the first time around. While I was cleaning the turbo to manifold exhaust mating flange, I noticed the secondary turbo pre-spool was cracked open in its resting position. I didn’t think this was the norm so I hit up Dale and he confirmed it should be shut. I also found online that you want to set up the hole for the post to be ½ hole short so you have to pull the rod to make it sit over the post ensuring a good seal at resting position. I checked the primary turbo wastegate and it was ok. I went back to the secondary turbo and took off the rod and found it was adjusted to ½ hole past the rod, was it adjusted the wrong way? Anyways I grabbed the rod with some vise grips to hold it from damaging the wastegate diaphragm and turned the rod end until it was ½ hole before the post. I put the rod end back on and now the door rest flat.
8. Turbo's Back In
These things are heavy, seriously. I put the studs that came out with the Stover nuts back onto the engine side manifold to hold the gaskets in place and for a helping hand. I had 5 studs of which 2 were shorter. On the engine manifold side, I put the 3 longer ones on the primary turbo side and the 2 shorter ones on the back of the secondary turbo side. I loosely installed the turbo oil return pipes and made 1000% sure the gaskets did not slip out this time. I put the rear oil return gasket on the engine side studs and I also took off the coolant hoses so they would not get in the way during the install.
After a brief struggle to install the turbo’s, I took a break to catch my breath. Did I say these things are heavy yet, no… these things are heavy. I mated the oil feed connection and return connections and put the turbo coolant feed and return hoses back on with some nice fuel line clamps. I noticed some scratches on my wastegate during this adventure and with a quick dab of the sharpie the paint chips disappeared. Now was a good time to go down under and take care of the lower turbo control actuator under the manifold. I was worried I would break a clip so I ordered some just in case and boom - there goes the dynamite. The turbo control actuator clip broke and I replaced it with a new one - just like that. Next was to put the downpipe back on and put the EGT, factory O2 sensor and the wideband O2 back in. All my vacuum lines were tangled and somehow my oil catch can and secondary turbo outlet elbow were tied up like a pretzel. I finally got it all sorted out and bolted them back in place.
9. Fix Oil Leak
I ordered some Earl’s replacement fittings from Holley’s website, because you know I thought I would get them quickly. After a few weeks of not hearing anything I called and left emails and then ordered some back-ups off eBay. I received my eBay parts in a week and the next week I got a reply email from Holley saying the parts are on back order and will arrive by the end of the year - say what, in 3 more months – maybe at that? I replied with “cancel my order” and I got my money back within a few days. So my Earl’s from eBay must have been sitting in the window forever, one case was melted and the others discolored, damn I hope these o’rings are ok.
I took off the oil feed line from the engine to the oil thermostat to fix the leaking 90-degree fitting. It looked like the Earl’s o’ring failed where it swivels but after taking it off, I noticed 2 deep scratches on the mating surface of the adapter on the engine side. It is possible that is where it was leaking from, but I will take care of both to be safe. I did find my adapters, but I was missing the Teflon washers to make the seal to the engine side oil lines. The Setrab adapters I have use rubber o’rings so I took a chance and sanded down the sealing surface to get most of the scratch out. It took some time because I had to maintain the curvature of the fitting. I replaced the fitting on the hose side and hopefully it will hold since I messed with the original seal from the other fitting. With the lower hose off the oil thermostat, I was able to re-tighten the upper fitting that had a drop where it screws on and then I put the lower hose back on. I have enough ss braided line to make another short section if it leaks, fingers crossed.
Enjoy the pics.
1. Slow Down Coolant Leak
Last edited by rotaryextreme; 09-29-21 at 10:23 PM.
You might want to consider switching coolant to Evan's and run zero pressure improve your chances of avoiding your epoxy fix from leaking again.
Also, why did you install the driftn Jim harness and then plan to switch back to IRP? If one is already installed, why not leave it. Is there something you specifically prefer on the IRP one?
You might want to consider switching coolant to Evan's and run zero pressure improve your chances of avoiding your epoxy fix from leaking again.
Also, why did you install the driftn Jim harness and then plan to switch back to IRP? If one is already installed, why not leave it. Is there something you specifically prefer on the IRP one?
Hey whats up.
I just need the car to move so I just wanted to slow the leak from a slow drip to maybe just being wet, I did not want to stop it and risk it spreading into the oil pan. Right now it just leaks outside which is manageable.
Evans??? - I did not even know I could run zero pressure - also my radiator cap with the release lever is old and i can hear it blowing bubbles in the coolant over flow even at 0.5 bar - so it helps in hindsight.
My original IRP harness was not firing the leading plugs - only the trailing. IRP was going to send my a replacement, but I bought Driftjims as a back up just in case the IRP harness did not arrive in time for sevenstock 23.
The IRP harness arrived the day after I installed the Driftjim harness ... lol
Well time to sleep - catch you guys later .. nitey nite
Yeah. By running zero pressure it might just prolong your uptime a bit. Do a search for Evan's, there are a bunch of threads on how to convert (flush out any traces of water and new cap).
09-02-21, 10:25 AM
