RENESISFD's Robust Build: Powered by Pepperoni Pizza and Chikken Nuggets
Wow this has got to be one of the best built threads ever. Your car is very well presented with some the best parts money can buy, the custom work and chairmanship is amazing. You sir have a trophy in your hands, you have manage to do so much in so little time. Yet still manage to contribute and help others on the forum. Thank you for sharing and enjoy you car. Looking foward to many updates, Mr. Deep Pockets.
Here's a pic of Wastegate John's new oil catch can on display at the Carlisi meet
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69501773@N02/8052502121/http://www.flickr.com/photos/69501773@N02/8052502121/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/69501773@N02/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/69501773@N02/8052502121/http://www.flickr.com/photos/69501773@N02/8052502121/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/69501773@N02/, on Flickr
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 9
From: Long Island NY 11746
^ It was the simplest solution inorder to get back out on the track.
I need to do a wire tuck, looks like **** in there
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I need to do a wire tuck, looks like **** in there
Last edited by RENESISFD; Oct 4, 2012 at 08:31 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 9
From: Long Island NY 11746
I am happy with the spool time, it seems to be quick. It is faster than I thought it would be but I have never driven another single car to be able to compare.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 9
From: Long Island NY 11746
This weekend I worked on integrating the control buttons for the Racepak dash. In order to use the functions of the dash for datalogging and just general usage you need to install 2 momentary push buttons. I had seen many other people just add 2 buttons that look like they came from radio shack but for me that is not good enough. I started thinking about how I can make the buttons look factory when it dawned on me, Why don't I just add 2 switches to the factory center console? And that is what I did, I think they came out looking great, I just wish I knew of a way to remove the defroster logo and replace it with a 1 and a 2. Anyway here are some pics of my crude install.
The Deutsch connector plugs into the back of the Dash.

Switches installed, I should have cut off the heatshrink tubing before crimping, I will fix that this winter when I integrate the display into the dash.

Finished look, the two left buttons are for controlling the display, and they are in easy reach for setting the start finish line when at the track.

Final look at the dash and the buttons.
The Deutsch connector plugs into the back of the Dash.

Switches installed, I should have cut off the heatshrink tubing before crimping, I will fix that this winter when I integrate the display into the dash.

Finished look, the two left buttons are for controlling the display, and they are in easy reach for setting the start finish line when at the track.

Final look at the dash and the buttons.
Looks great buddy! It was great to see it up close again. The hard lines are a very quality touch. Clean setup!
That Racepak dash fits in there nicely! As far as the wire tuck goes, I'm with ya, in the process myself. I'm looking into the Rywire harness for the engine side. Pretty clean and priced well compared to a new OEM harness. And yeah, those relays and fuse boxes definitely makes things busy.
Rywire : Mil-spec Tucked 13B harness (FD3S/Rx7) - $649.00
Keep up the good work!!
That Racepak dash fits in there nicely! As far as the wire tuck goes, I'm with ya, in the process myself. I'm looking into the Rywire harness for the engine side. Pretty clean and priced well compared to a new OEM harness. And yeah, those relays and fuse boxes definitely makes things busy.
Rywire : Mil-spec Tucked 13B harness (FD3S/Rx7) - $649.00
Keep up the good work!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 9
From: Long Island NY 11746
Looks great buddy! It was great to see it up close again. The hard lines are a very quality touch. Clean setup!
That Racepak dash fits in there nicely! As far as the wire tuck goes, I'm with ya, in the process myself. I'm looking into the Rywire harness for the engine side. Pretty clean and priced well compared to a new OEM harness. And yeah, those relays and fuse boxes definitely makes things busy.
Rywire : Mil-spec Tucked 13B harness (FD3S/Rx7) - $649.00
Keep up the good work!!
That Racepak dash fits in there nicely! As far as the wire tuck goes, I'm with ya, in the process myself. I'm looking into the Rywire harness for the engine side. Pretty clean and priced well compared to a new OEM harness. And yeah, those relays and fuse boxes definitely makes things busy.
Rywire : Mil-spec Tucked 13B harness (FD3S/Rx7) - $649.00
Keep up the good work!!

I will probably get a harness from C. ludwig (the guy I bought the haltech from) if I do not make one myself. I have a few things I want to integrate into the Haltech and I think it would be easier for him to do it as he is familiar with the pin out of the Haltech and can help me set up the settings in the software easier. Plus I know his service is top notch and has excellent customer support.
I think if I were to do a wire tuck I would use the racepak smartwire system and get rid of all of the fuses and relays. But that will probably not be until next year.
thanks for the compliments and I am looking forward to seeing your car next year at the Gap (you better be there).
Thanks, plans for this winter is to eliminate the stock cluster and integrate the racepak into the stock gauge hood for a cleaner look. Plus it would lower the racepak IQ3 so I could see the shift lights as it is mounted too high and they are blocked by the steering wheel.
In other news I have been playing around with the lap timer and all of the logging functions of the dash and am going to overlay the info into track vision software. I am just having trouble importing video into the datalink software but once I have that setup I will post a boring driving vid.
What are your impressions of the racepak dash? How does it work off the track, night driving, etc? Ive been back and forth between the IQ3 and getting some custom gauges from speedhut. I really like the classic look of the factory dash, but can appreciate the functionality of the racepak dash.. Im just afraid it will look "cheap", if you know what I mean?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 9
From: Long Island NY 11746
Thanks.
I am extremely happy with the dash. I have no problems using it off of the track and now that I have added the buttons I can now dim the display at night (it is not automatic). The sequential shift lights are great. Visibility is absolutely excellent in all conditions, even direct sunlight.
IMO, if you like the look of the stock gauges and want to spend the time to integrate speedhut gauges I think you can not go wrong with that route. If I did not want the logging functions of the IQ3 I would have went that route. I really like the dash as I can now display up to 24 different things between the 4 screens. It eliminates all of the extra gauges, I also have a warning function that can monitor some of the parameters in the back ground and display a light as well as a warning on the dash if any of the values go out of range.
As far as looking cheap, I think that has to do with the execution and installation of the dash into the car. I will be integrating it into my dash this winter so we shall see how it turns out then. Right now I can certainly understand how it looks cheap as it looks like an add in.
What are your impressions of the racepak dash? How does it work off the track, night driving, etc? Ive been back and forth between the IQ3 and getting some custom gauges from speedhut. I really like the classic look of the factory dash, but can appreciate the functionality of the racepak dash.. Im just afraid it will look "cheap", if you know what I mean?
I am extremely happy with the dash. I have no problems using it off of the track and now that I have added the buttons I can now dim the display at night (it is not automatic). The sequential shift lights are great. Visibility is absolutely excellent in all conditions, even direct sunlight.
IMO, if you like the look of the stock gauges and want to spend the time to integrate speedhut gauges I think you can not go wrong with that route. If I did not want the logging functions of the IQ3 I would have went that route. I really like the dash as I can now display up to 24 different things between the 4 screens. It eliminates all of the extra gauges, I also have a warning function that can monitor some of the parameters in the back ground and display a light as well as a warning on the dash if any of the values go out of range.
As far as looking cheap, I think that has to do with the execution and installation of the dash into the car. I will be integrating it into my dash this winter so we shall see how it turns out then. Right now I can certainly understand how it looks cheap as it looks like an add in.
I started thinking about how I can make the buttons look factory when it dawned on me, Why don't I just add 2 switches to the factory center console? And that is what I did, I think they came out looking great, I just wish I knew of a way to remove the defroster logo and replace it with a 1 and a 2. Anyway here are some pics of my crude install.
Finished look, the two left buttons are for controlling the display, and they are in easy reach for setting the start finish line when at the track.

Finished look, the two left buttons are for controlling the display, and they are in easy reach for setting the start finish line when at the track.

I will probably get a harness from C. ludwig (the guy I bought the haltech from) if I do not make one myself. I have a few things I want to integrate into the Haltech and I think it would be easier for him to do it as he is familiar with the pin out of the Haltech and can help me set up the settings in the software easier. Plus I know his service is top notch and has excellent customer support.
I think if I were to do a wire tuck I would use the racepak smartwire system and get rid of all of the fuses and relays. But that will probably not be until next year.
thanks for the compliments and I am looking forward to seeing your car next year at the Gap (you better be there).
I think if I were to do a wire tuck I would use the racepak smartwire system and get rid of all of the fuses and relays. But that will probably not be until next year.
thanks for the compliments and I am looking forward to seeing your car next year at the Gap (you better be there).
As far as the Gap goes, I'm really gonna try buddy. I was browsing pics from the last few years on the site and looks like such a great event. So many familiar faces!! The wife is all about it, and I may even have a truck to tow the FD down with, which would be pretty cool considering incidentals. Either way, she'll be ready to make the drive!
On your buttons, you could go with some small circular vinyl number stickers. As long as they were quality and clean, it could turn out nice. Just some thoughts.
Keep rockin bro!!
Apart from the custom switches here: OTRATTW (I have no idea if they can or cannot) have you considered sanding down the switches, repainting them and just adding a nice little diecut 1 and 2 on them?
Based on your build, I suspect you'd be able to do this and make it look nice and not ghetto.
Based on your build, I suspect you'd be able to do this and make it look nice and not ghetto.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 9
From: Long Island NY 11746
Apart from the custom switches here: OTRATTW (I have no idea if they can or cannot) have you considered sanding down the switches, repainting them and just adding a nice little diecut 1 and 2 on them?
Based on your build, I suspect you'd be able to do this and make it look nice and not ghetto.
Based on your build, I suspect you'd be able to do this and make it look nice and not ghetto.
Car is put away for the winter. Right now I am focusing my attention on my Cummins turbo diesel swap into my ford ranger, so that is going to take up most of my time this winter so I am unsure how much progress will actually be done on the FD this winter.



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