My What Have I Gotten Myself Into FD Build Thread
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Arlington, VA
Not sure, but i doubt it. It was tuned fairly rich at load which i would assume would account for any voltage drops. However, you really should rewire the in-tank wiring to include the bulkhead connector. I was about to do that before i lost compression
Last edited by TomU; Nov 28, 2020 at 05:59 PM.
Rotary Enthusiast
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From: South FL
Just a thought as we were/are tuning rich, but I don't think it will compensate for low voltage. (Of course wth do I know?).
What's your opinion on those seals now that you see the damage? The rotor housing looks like it got raped. Thanks for the pics btw!
BTW the leanness I was speaking about was intermittent and was only towards the end of the session. Like something got heated up. It was rock solid at the beginning. Speaking about AFR and FP
What's your opinion on those seals now that you see the damage? The rotor housing looks like it got raped. Thanks for the pics btw!
BTW the leanness I was speaking about was intermittent and was only towards the end of the session. Like something got heated up. It was rock solid at the beginning. Speaking about AFR and FP
Last edited by Testrun; Nov 28, 2020 at 06:17 PM.
You’re going to be rippin with that setup Tom. Very similar to my setup. It looks beautiful btw. I’m hoping those seals work out for you! Your housings look terrible. Worrisome for me as I’m running RXparts seals as well. God luck with the build Sir.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Arlington, VA
Ihor thinks it was lack of pre-mix. I was using 1 oz/gal and OMP, but the meth may have washed it out. He recommended Klotz for meth injection https://klotzlube.com/shop/ols/produ...er-techniplate. I dunno about brands making that big of a difference tho. IMO it may be amount of premix and maybe just maybe, the seals. That said, 80% of the mileage on the ODO is WOT. RXparts seals are probably fine for the street.
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From: South FL
Hmmmm, well that seems a bit strange to me. (The lack of premix that is). I often wondered about the meth or even water washing away any lube, but then again it seems like the process of combustion would be so fast it wouldn't matter much. I am still thinking the seals. I will up to maybe 1.5 oz per gal on mine as I was thinking about that before your issue. I am also wondering if a thicker oil on your omp may be better with a meth injection. Either way I am excited for your new build and am sure it will be a wicked setup! Looks awesome and promising!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Arlington, VA
I was using the medium jet (500cc/min) with the controller coming on at 7 psi and full at 11 psi. Meth mix was 50/50 by volume. Ihor told me i should have been mixing 2 oz/gal (with the OMP) for track conditions.
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From: South FL
Tom I don't recall if you tuned with the injection, pretty sure you did not. Also did you have any issues with the 500 nozzle? I am still on the smallest as I read the twins can be overwhelmed by the 500 even though the aem manual states 500 for our power output level.
Thread Starter
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From: Arlington, VA
It was tuned with the injection, but i was only pushing 12 psi so it wasn't like i was using meth to get a lot of boost. As for the nozzle size, you bring up an in interesting thought. Wonder if there are differences between a rotary (essentially 2 cycle) and a 4-cycle piston IRT the AEM chart which is probably based on piston engines. Need to think about that one
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From: South FL
Wonder if there are differences between a rotary (essentially 2 cycle) and a 4-cycle piston IRT the AEM chart which is probably based on piston engines. Need to think about that one[/QUOTE]
I was wondering the same. Off my small nozzle I definitely lower the intake temp (mostly just the affect of it hitting the sensor probably), but no idea what it is doing internally if anything. I am sure it helps. I just started to add a little meth and will see how it affects the afr. I should have a better understanding of what's going on after that if anything will register on the gauge.
I was wondering the same. Off my small nozzle I definitely lower the intake temp (mostly just the affect of it hitting the sensor probably), but no idea what it is doing internally if anything. I am sure it helps. I just started to add a little meth and will see how it affects the afr. I should have a better understanding of what's going on after that if anything will register on the gauge.
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From: South FL
Hey Tom hope all is well. Any progress on the bike or the rebuild?
Not to kick a dead horse, but did you have the "coated" apex seals? I have the coated seals myself. I was just thinking that it is inevitable the coating will wear off. When it does I am sure it isn't pretty. Awesome for drag, but street or road racing maybe not.
Not to kick a dead horse, but did you have the "coated" apex seals? I have the coated seals myself. I was just thinking that it is inevitable the coating will wear off. When it does I am sure it isn't pretty. Awesome for drag, but street or road racing maybe not.
Thread Starter
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From: Arlington, VA
IRP is saying Dec, "maybe" 
I'm going with the I-Rotary seals. I don't think there's any additional coating and i've never heard of such a process. If there is coating for seals, I'd think it'd have to be ceramic due to the high temps. And just like ceramic seals, i'd think it'd be brittle and potentially prone to breaking. Not sure the adhesion if it were to break. Unlike a solid ceramic seal, the coating may stay adhered to the seal.
The bike is completely broken down (every single part on it) and has taken the form of boxes in my basement. Goal is to have it put back together by next summer. That thing is going to cost almost as much as the 7
I'm going with the I-Rotary seals. I don't think there's any additional coating and i've never heard of such a process. If there is coating for seals, I'd think it'd have to be ceramic due to the high temps. And just like ceramic seals, i'd think it'd be brittle and potentially prone to breaking. Not sure the adhesion if it were to break. Unlike a solid ceramic seal, the coating may stay adhered to the seal.
The bike is completely broken down (every single part on it) and has taken the form of boxes in my basement. Goal is to have it put back together by next summer. That thing is going to cost almost as much as the 7
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From: South FL
IRP is saying Dec, "maybe"
I'm going with the I-Rotary seals. I don't think there's any additional coating and i've never heard of such a process. If there is coating for seals, I'd think it'd have to be ceramic due to the high temps. And just like ceramic seals, i'd think it'd be brittle and potentially prone to breaking. Not sure the adhesion if it were to break. Unlike a solid ceramic seal, the coating may stay adhered to the seal.
The bike is completely broken down (every single part on it) and has taken the form of boxes in my basement. Goal is to have it put back together by next summer. That thing is going to cost almost as much as the 7
I'm going with the I-Rotary seals. I don't think there's any additional coating and i've never heard of such a process. If there is coating for seals, I'd think it'd have to be ceramic due to the high temps. And just like ceramic seals, i'd think it'd be brittle and potentially prone to breaking. Not sure the adhesion if it were to break. Unlike a solid ceramic seal, the coating may stay adhered to the seal.
The bike is completely broken down (every single part on it) and has taken the form of boxes in my basement. Goal is to have it put back together by next summer. That thing is going to cost almost as much as the 7
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Arlington, VA
I think so. Think their popularity has skyrocketed since they did my first engine rebuild. They were working out of a one bay shop at the time and were able to do a reasonable turn. I also think they work on "easier" repairs while i sit waiting.
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
You're the only other person I've ever seen with this gauge pod. I bought one but only used it for a short time.
No pics, but connecting the transmission to the block was a real PITA. For the life of me, I simply could not get the transmission shaft to mate with the clutch wedge collar. The ACT clutch kit came with a monoloc collar which is supposed to be an improvement over the stock wedge collar. Only problem is I could not get the transmission shaft to click into it no matter what I tried. 
Part of the problem might have been that the engine was still on the stand and I was supporting the transmission with the engine lift and I just couldn't get enough lateral pressure from the transmission against the engine, even with someone pushing against the engine. I ended up getting it mated by reversing the disassembly, I took the clutch off the flywheel and mated that to the transmission. That worked! Only problem now was getting the clutch bolted back onto the flywheel. Since the way I got the transmission separated from the engine was by accessing the flywheel bolts through the bell housing access plates, I just reversed disassembly and torqued down the bolts via same access plate. It worked, but would have been much easier if I could have gotten the transmission to mate that monoloc. What a pain.
Part of the problem might have been that the engine was still on the stand and I was supporting the transmission with the engine lift and I just couldn't get enough lateral pressure from the transmission against the engine, even with someone pushing against the engine. I ended up getting it mated by reversing the disassembly, I took the clutch off the flywheel and mated that to the transmission. That worked! Only problem now was getting the clutch bolted back onto the flywheel. Since the way I got the transmission separated from the engine was by accessing the flywheel bolts through the bell housing access plates, I just reversed disassembly and torqued down the bolts via same access plate. It worked, but would have been much easier if I could have gotten the transmission to mate that monoloc. What a pain.
On the topic of the new build, you're going to love that turbo setup. I have the same turbo but with the Turbosource short runner manifold, and it's my favorite setup yet.
Good job on the build!
Just catching up on this thread…
A couple questions
1. What weight oil do you run on track?
2. Any smoking with a working omp and 1 oz a gallon? That seems like plenty of premix. In fact that’s what I run normally.
The new motor looks great, so clean and shiny 😁
A couple questions
1. What weight oil do you run on track?
2. Any smoking with a working omp and 1 oz a gallon? That seems like plenty of premix. In fact that’s what I run normally.
The new motor looks great, so clean and shiny 😁
Man December!! Didn’t you bring This to them last year? I’m prob going to be dropping mine off to them this winter since my coolant seal decided it had enough. Planning on going I’m with those same apex seals too
Thread Starter
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From: Arlington, VA
2. Don't really recall. Think there may have been slight smoking at start up
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https://mazdatrix.com/i-rotary-steel-apex-seals-review/
Of course they sell these, but I thought it was cool.
Of course they sell these, but I thought it was cool.
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