Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
08-27-14, 10:43 AM
#2078
1986-1996 Mazda RX-7 Brake Pads - EBC DP4763R - EBC Yellow Stuff Brake Pads
Ive used this website before and they didnt disappoint. Also... Free shipping
Ive used this website before and they didnt disappoint. Also... Free shipping
08-28-14, 09:59 AM
#2080
1986-1996 Mazda RX-7 Brake Pads - EBC DP4763R - EBC Yellow Stuff Brake Pads
Ive used this website before and they didnt disappoint. Also... Free shipping
Ive used this website before and they didnt disappoint. Also... Free shipping
-3 Front Camber
-4.5 Rear Camber
1/8" Toe in
Still trying to find the time to look up what caster does entirely. But I'm not going to change anything until I feel like it's holding me back. And I don't feel confident enough as it is getting around the tower up on balcony yet.... But the car feels great. Just some steering issues that needed to be sorted
08-28-14, 11:44 AM
#2081
aaron,
caster simply makes camber INCREASE as the suspension compresses. and the stock setting of 6* caster is generally a pretty good match for camber gain to utilize the whole tire when turning to help grip. if drifting, i have no idea how caster would help or hurt you.
also, (please don't think this is drifter hatred) are you planning to use the car more for drifting or timeattack/HPDE/track ?
running a "typical" fd alignment (~2* front, ~1.5* rear --maybe a little less) would increase your grip substantially. and FD's don't need much camber because they gain so much camber on compression (see caster ^ above), but i assume you're running your current alignment for drifting purposes and/or the fact that if you dialed the camber back to within our stratosphere your tires would probably destroy your nice fenders.
it looks like you may actually have a pretty good alignment for a drift event, as that 4.5* of camber is going to make for very little traction in the rear.
this car woud be FAST on a track with some grip. it may actually be too fast/scary. i haven't had the desire to go over 350whp on track because it's too much car.
caster simply makes camber INCREASE as the suspension compresses. and the stock setting of 6* caster is generally a pretty good match for camber gain to utilize the whole tire when turning to help grip. if drifting, i have no idea how caster would help or hurt you.
also, (please don't think this is drifter hatred) are you planning to use the car more for drifting or timeattack/HPDE/track ?
running a "typical" fd alignment (~2* front, ~1.5* rear --maybe a little less) would increase your grip substantially. and FD's don't need much camber because they gain so much camber on compression (see caster ^ above), but i assume you're running your current alignment for drifting purposes and/or the fact that if you dialed the camber back to within our stratosphere your tires would probably destroy your nice fenders.
it looks like you may actually have a pretty good alignment for a drift event, as that 4.5* of camber is going to make for very little traction in the rear.
this car woud be FAST on a track with some grip. it may actually be too fast/scary. i haven't had the desire to go over 350whp on track because it's too much car.
08-29-14, 12:27 AM
#2083
Running that much camber in the rear is not ideal for drifting jacob. He's got plenty of power to break the rear end loose. Competive drifter actually run 0 camber and some actually run postime camber. I know ur run in that much camber for fitment reasons so I'm not knocking your setup Manny.
As for caster I ran 7.5 on my s13. The higher caster felt good once initated. The car pretty much steered itself and steering wheel spun freely in my hands and was super ez to control.
As for caster I ran 7.5 on my s13. The higher caster felt good once initated. The car pretty much steered itself and steering wheel spun freely in my hands and was super ez to control.
08-29-14, 03:08 PM
#2084
I apologize for the wrong info. Checked my note pad..I'm actually at 0 , camber in the rear... and they only clearance issues I'm having are up front.... which is why I'm running -4 up front... front toe is actually at zero as well. I'll have to revisit front alignment though because it still pulls slightly.
09-03-14, 02:36 PM
#2085
This thing is just getting better and better. Went down to visit Abel Ibarra Sunday Night for some driveability tuning... Couldn't believe how smooth he got the thing to idle... Practically stock. I'll have to get another video of it. But Here is a little test on a private desert road wayyy out in the middle of the desert. Almost feels like I have too much power...too soon. SIKE!!! haha...This EFR is incredible. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZYx...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZYx...ature=youtu.be
09-05-14, 05:55 PM
#2091
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
LOL seriously, I'll never go back. These turbos are the perfect combo...response of the stock twins with the top end of a single, all in one simple package. They just cost a little more is all lol. But even so, if you factor in how much you spend on external BOV and wastegates (if you don't go external still like I did), it's not really much more expensive, if at all. Not to mention all the other innovations it entails...for me it's a no brainer, especially after seeing how the car responds with it. Now I'm just trying to decide if I want to step up to the 8374 when my 7670 goes out, or just stay where I am.
To be honest, I'm not sure what kind of top end there is with the larger turbos, so I can't speak to that, and therefore maybe it isn't for everyone. I might be happier with a bit more top end on mine, although I'd get used to that too and want more. Either way, I love the response so much that I don't care near as much about top end. If you're looking for response, I think it's unbeatable.
Another local guy is currently putting an 8374 in his and we're going to swap rides, so we'll see how that goes lol.
/hijack...sorry Aaron lol.
To be honest, I'm not sure what kind of top end there is with the larger turbos, so I can't speak to that, and therefore maybe it isn't for everyone. I might be happier with a bit more top end on mine, although I'd get used to that too and want more. Either way, I love the response so much that I don't care near as much about top end. If you're looking for response, I think it's unbeatable.
Another local guy is currently putting an 8374 in his and we're going to swap rides, so we'll see how that goes lol.
/hijack...sorry Aaron lol.
09-15-14, 03:29 PM
#2093
Update!
Been Very Busy "Tuning" the car...
Never so much have I thought about what the word "Tune" could really mean until these past couple months.
I've literally been spending hours tidying up everything I possibly could on the car for a few events I have planned. When I saying tidying up...what I mean is Tuning up...specifically Suspension adjustments/improvements/alignments, making sure I have clearance, making sure the car is mechanically sound, cooling/Ignition, Fuel cell adjustments, drive ability on and on and on.
I'm really unsure of where to start with this post but I guess I'll just start with the ecu tuning.
It's hard for me to understand how someone could go to the dyno once and be done with it. I couldn't imagine someone could do a great tune on a dyno and then the customer take his/her car away and go hit the track or street and be 100% satisfied. I mean if so...then I'm impressed. But I feel differently about it. Maybe it's just me or maybe its just my tuner Abel Ibarra. But were constantly tidying up little things here and there. When we went to the dyno... we simply used the dyno to tune WOT full boost. But we didn't want to waste time on the dyno doing drive ability because 1) we'd have to pay for it and we were unsure the load would be the same and 2) I had some changes to make.
So The plan was to have abel come up or myself tow the car down to him and we'd take the car out to get it dialed in perfect IN situations. Then when we had a chance to get out on the track, and I have a passenger seat...haha, abel would come out on track with me and make adjustments. Well, so far I've been down to see him twice and two late night sessions have blown me away. It's funny because after the first session I thought to myself...how much better could it get? Seriously...I was 100% Satisfied with how the car was running/idling/power/ driving all around. ......Until Abel wanted to do a second session to further dial it in. Well....The car idles so smooth you may mistake it for an un-ported motor. I actually asked him to raise the idle because I didn't like it. We had the car idling at 700RPM!!!! Can you believe that?! without a skipping beat!! I think the FFE trigger wheel had something to do with it but no mistaking that Abel just knows these cars so well. We raised the idle to 1000RPM flat and I'm telling you, it idles perfectly steady with no oscillation at all. It's incredible. Also, I have an exedy twin disk...and although it's a VERY nice clutch...low rpm first gear putting around can get jerky here and there. It grabs and jumps and I wouldn't call it a buck..but it does jump to an extent. Well Abel tuned all of that out. I can literally go 5-10 MPH or start from a dead stop... put the car into first and let off the throttle without the car bucking or wanting to Lurch on and off. Low speed stop and go's are just as smooth. I have learned that if I ride the clutch for 2-4 seconds that the heat will make it grab much more fiercely than If I just put the car in gear and drop the clutch...but there's no need to because abel tuned it out. Transition from dead stop to 1st gear is a dream...and every gear after that. Cruising on the highway to downshift 100% TPS is crazy...but still VERY smooth and predictable. I love it. Although we haven't touched Transient throttle Response yet... I'm sure that when we do... It'll be something out of this world. I'll most likely be able to tell in low speed long gear bogging though because low gear aggressive TPS is pretty damn crisp. All in All as of right now.... Since the track day at Mazda-fest...I would say the tune improved easily 75%.
I went through my front alignment again and adjusted so that I'm not running 4.5 Degrees of front caster, at 5degrees of front camber and 1/16" toe out,.....and I think I need to add.5 degrees of front camber and drop the front suspension another Inch. I think that's going to be the sweet spot. So I'm just going to lower the front an inch and that should do the camber on it's own.. I'll have to double check my numbers but that's where I'll be for the pre ASB Just drift event on the 28th.
Also, my Widefoot Sway bar mounts came in. THese things are rock solid. They're incredibly sturdy and changed the whole feel of the car entirely. Looking forward to getting some feel for the new set up soon. Wayyy lest flex,..car feels more as a unit but much slower response in turn in because the front is now technically working together left to right.
On another note, ....I've learned a good indicator when to change my oil.... Is when I see an actual rise in oil level. The car doesn't leak. So when the oil level rises...it just means that the oil is kinda saturating with ethanol. My oil smells just like the stuff, so I've taken note to watch oil level but roughly speaking i'll do one and a half track days on an oil change. I really want to keep fresh oil in the car, and I feel like that's really important.
Spark Plugs -
I've been running Platinum Plugs since the dyno and they've held up excellently. I don't know exactly how many miles I've put on them but I've got zero break up and I havn't even pulled them to check them. I'll probably run them at the event on the 28th and bring a spare set with me incase I run into any situations. But I feel like things are pretty solid right now.
UIM I purchased a polished UIM off Fris at lucky seven and it came with a throttle body...So I did a 5 hour swap making sure the whole thing was 100% Air Tight/deleting the secondary Butterflies, Deleting idle air valve, pulling out every single vac nipple drilling and tapping each port and using bolts to seal those holes. It came out VERY nice. Next is port matching it to my Excessive LIM. Right now its not matched.. and that bothers me. Also... I know a lot of people say that all you need is a gasket..but I disagree. I think if you want zero leaks..it's just safer to use a small amount of Gasket sealer... I use Permatex Super Copper..or Hondabond. Both are high temp and have worked great for me in the past. This should be done BEFORE you dyno as not to change your AFR's which it really can do. But with doing your own R and D...sometimes you forget things. I left my Leaks until I was able to get back down to Abel and adjust for the increase in intake.
The EFR
I can't even say enough about it. It has got to be theeee best turbo out for my specific duty. I don't care about top end numbers.... I wanted response and that mid-range power band... and that's exactly what it gives me. Breaking loose whenever I want rather than worrying about keeping revs up in the 6k-7k's.
I have noticed my Vacuum at Idle is increasing. Which I started noticing before the new UIM....and only got better with the swap. This is good and Howard you'd be happy to hear your piece of Art is working and performing wonderfully.
The interior of the car is slowly evolving. I ran the hard lines for my Hydro E-brake and I'm not entirely happy with their shape but the install of the kit was such a pain in the **** and it's working so well currently that I don't want to re-do it.
Im in desperate need for a passenger seat. Like really badly.
I regret not purchasing my rear diffusor because I think it would complete the rear end of the car....and I really wish I could afford to paint the car. I'm thinking of changing up the entire kit truthfully. I have an offer but unsure if I want any major sponsors for visual asthetics... just because at this point I don't want people to say Ohhh there's "X" shops car. I want them to know the companies that have helped me out and I'm proud to help those companies out....but draping a huge Label on my car takes away from it being mine in a way. At least to me. I'm also hesitant to spend anymore than a grand on paint. I've already cracked both front fenders and the passenger side from lip all the way to the vent. Tell me how stupid it is to paint a car that could potentially be scuffed up everytime I drive it. It's the nature of any track car. I like wraps...but they just don't do it for me. So I'm trying to find the happy medium.
I sold my Vertical door kit because everyone and their mother has em and I would rather spend money on sweeeeeet Electronics. So I Ordered a Race Technologies Dash 2 Display.
That should be here any day now.
I Also received the New Full Function Engineering Oil Temp sensor and input it into my ECU under Aux Temp so that Now I have the ability to see the following:
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Fuel Pressure
Water Temp
Vacuum
Ethanol Content %
Battery Voltage
Dual Egt's
I'm Pumped on it! I think I'm forgetting something....but oh well.
So here's a few pics for your viewing pleasures, i'll try to stay more up to date but I've picked up a new job as well as a prime Internship that I'm very fortunate to have been accepted for so it's a bit hectic. I stay up at night to get install stuff done....and usually just work till I start feeling "The Haze" that I know a lot of mechanics feel after they hit that certain point. Anyways here you go!
Perfect spot for my Oil temp sensor...oil is pushed through here first directly after being picked up and passes through here to the first oil cooler.
My Oil cooler thermostat actually has a snap ringed drain that you simply push to let oil out....I didn't know this for the longest time but it's awesome...now I can drain all the oil in the lines without even having to take the lines off.
But the allen head plug was stripped out (figures) and My extracter couldn't bite the alum so I simply flat filed the exposed edges so I could fit a size 8 on there and was able to get it out no prob.
Full FUnction Engineering OIl temp sensor kit. Very nice!! Good Price too!
Installed
No one will ever see this but put together the pig tail and sealed it with high temp heat shrink
Needed to run the lines so twisted it all together
Cut over 14 Inches of Vac line out from my Map line.. Should've done this a lllllong time ago
God I love it
Yesterday after a quick wash
Been Very Busy "Tuning" the car...
Never so much have I thought about what the word "Tune" could really mean until these past couple months.
I've literally been spending hours tidying up everything I possibly could on the car for a few events I have planned. When I saying tidying up...what I mean is Tuning up...specifically Suspension adjustments/improvements/alignments, making sure I have clearance, making sure the car is mechanically sound, cooling/Ignition, Fuel cell adjustments, drive ability on and on and on.
I'm really unsure of where to start with this post but I guess I'll just start with the ecu tuning.
It's hard for me to understand how someone could go to the dyno once and be done with it. I couldn't imagine someone could do a great tune on a dyno and then the customer take his/her car away and go hit the track or street and be 100% satisfied. I mean if so...then I'm impressed. But I feel differently about it. Maybe it's just me or maybe its just my tuner Abel Ibarra. But were constantly tidying up little things here and there. When we went to the dyno... we simply used the dyno to tune WOT full boost. But we didn't want to waste time on the dyno doing drive ability because 1) we'd have to pay for it and we were unsure the load would be the same and 2) I had some changes to make.
So The plan was to have abel come up or myself tow the car down to him and we'd take the car out to get it dialed in perfect IN situations. Then when we had a chance to get out on the track, and I have a passenger seat...haha, abel would come out on track with me and make adjustments. Well, so far I've been down to see him twice and two late night sessions have blown me away. It's funny because after the first session I thought to myself...how much better could it get? Seriously...I was 100% Satisfied with how the car was running/idling/power/ driving all around. ......Until Abel wanted to do a second session to further dial it in. Well....The car idles so smooth you may mistake it for an un-ported motor. I actually asked him to raise the idle because I didn't like it. We had the car idling at 700RPM!!!! Can you believe that?! without a skipping beat!! I think the FFE trigger wheel had something to do with it but no mistaking that Abel just knows these cars so well. We raised the idle to 1000RPM flat and I'm telling you, it idles perfectly steady with no oscillation at all. It's incredible. Also, I have an exedy twin disk...and although it's a VERY nice clutch...low rpm first gear putting around can get jerky here and there. It grabs and jumps and I wouldn't call it a buck..but it does jump to an extent. Well Abel tuned all of that out. I can literally go 5-10 MPH or start from a dead stop... put the car into first and let off the throttle without the car bucking or wanting to Lurch on and off. Low speed stop and go's are just as smooth. I have learned that if I ride the clutch for 2-4 seconds that the heat will make it grab much more fiercely than If I just put the car in gear and drop the clutch...but there's no need to because abel tuned it out. Transition from dead stop to 1st gear is a dream...and every gear after that. Cruising on the highway to downshift 100% TPS is crazy...but still VERY smooth and predictable. I love it. Although we haven't touched Transient throttle Response yet... I'm sure that when we do... It'll be something out of this world. I'll most likely be able to tell in low speed long gear bogging though because low gear aggressive TPS is pretty damn crisp. All in All as of right now.... Since the track day at Mazda-fest...I would say the tune improved easily 75%.
I went through my front alignment again and adjusted so that I'm not running 4.5 Degrees of front caster, at 5degrees of front camber and 1/16" toe out,.....and I think I need to add.5 degrees of front camber and drop the front suspension another Inch. I think that's going to be the sweet spot. So I'm just going to lower the front an inch and that should do the camber on it's own.. I'll have to double check my numbers but that's where I'll be for the pre ASB Just drift event on the 28th.
Also, my Widefoot Sway bar mounts came in. THese things are rock solid. They're incredibly sturdy and changed the whole feel of the car entirely. Looking forward to getting some feel for the new set up soon. Wayyy lest flex,..car feels more as a unit but much slower response in turn in because the front is now technically working together left to right.
On another note, ....I've learned a good indicator when to change my oil.... Is when I see an actual rise in oil level. The car doesn't leak. So when the oil level rises...it just means that the oil is kinda saturating with ethanol. My oil smells just like the stuff, so I've taken note to watch oil level but roughly speaking i'll do one and a half track days on an oil change. I really want to keep fresh oil in the car, and I feel like that's really important.
Spark Plugs -
I've been running Platinum Plugs since the dyno and they've held up excellently. I don't know exactly how many miles I've put on them but I've got zero break up and I havn't even pulled them to check them. I'll probably run them at the event on the 28th and bring a spare set with me incase I run into any situations. But I feel like things are pretty solid right now.
UIM I purchased a polished UIM off Fris at lucky seven and it came with a throttle body...So I did a 5 hour swap making sure the whole thing was 100% Air Tight/deleting the secondary Butterflies, Deleting idle air valve, pulling out every single vac nipple drilling and tapping each port and using bolts to seal those holes. It came out VERY nice. Next is port matching it to my Excessive LIM. Right now its not matched.. and that bothers me. Also... I know a lot of people say that all you need is a gasket..but I disagree. I think if you want zero leaks..it's just safer to use a small amount of Gasket sealer... I use Permatex Super Copper..or Hondabond. Both are high temp and have worked great for me in the past. This should be done BEFORE you dyno as not to change your AFR's which it really can do. But with doing your own R and D...sometimes you forget things. I left my Leaks until I was able to get back down to Abel and adjust for the increase in intake.
The EFR
I can't even say enough about it. It has got to be theeee best turbo out for my specific duty. I don't care about top end numbers.... I wanted response and that mid-range power band... and that's exactly what it gives me. Breaking loose whenever I want rather than worrying about keeping revs up in the 6k-7k's.
I have noticed my Vacuum at Idle is increasing. Which I started noticing before the new UIM....and only got better with the swap. This is good and Howard you'd be happy to hear your piece of Art is working and performing wonderfully.
The interior of the car is slowly evolving. I ran the hard lines for my Hydro E-brake and I'm not entirely happy with their shape but the install of the kit was such a pain in the **** and it's working so well currently that I don't want to re-do it.
Im in desperate need for a passenger seat. Like really badly.
I regret not purchasing my rear diffusor because I think it would complete the rear end of the car....and I really wish I could afford to paint the car. I'm thinking of changing up the entire kit truthfully. I have an offer but unsure if I want any major sponsors for visual asthetics... just because at this point I don't want people to say Ohhh there's "X" shops car. I want them to know the companies that have helped me out and I'm proud to help those companies out....but draping a huge Label on my car takes away from it being mine in a way. At least to me. I'm also hesitant to spend anymore than a grand on paint. I've already cracked both front fenders and the passenger side from lip all the way to the vent. Tell me how stupid it is to paint a car that could potentially be scuffed up everytime I drive it. It's the nature of any track car. I like wraps...but they just don't do it for me. So I'm trying to find the happy medium.
I sold my Vertical door kit because everyone and their mother has em and I would rather spend money on sweeeeeet Electronics. So I Ordered a Race Technologies Dash 2 Display.
That should be here any day now.
I Also received the New Full Function Engineering Oil Temp sensor and input it into my ECU under Aux Temp so that Now I have the ability to see the following:
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Fuel Pressure
Water Temp
Vacuum
Ethanol Content %
Battery Voltage
Dual Egt's
I'm Pumped on it! I think I'm forgetting something....but oh well.
So here's a few pics for your viewing pleasures, i'll try to stay more up to date but I've picked up a new job as well as a prime Internship that I'm very fortunate to have been accepted for so it's a bit hectic. I stay up at night to get install stuff done....and usually just work till I start feeling "The Haze" that I know a lot of mechanics feel after they hit that certain point. Anyways here you go!
Perfect spot for my Oil temp sensor...oil is pushed through here first directly after being picked up and passes through here to the first oil cooler.
My Oil cooler thermostat actually has a snap ringed drain that you simply push to let oil out....I didn't know this for the longest time but it's awesome...now I can drain all the oil in the lines without even having to take the lines off.
But the allen head plug was stripped out (figures) and My extracter couldn't bite the alum so I simply flat filed the exposed edges so I could fit a size 8 on there and was able to get it out no prob.
Full FUnction Engineering OIl temp sensor kit. Very nice!! Good Price too!
Installed
No one will ever see this but put together the pig tail and sealed it with high temp heat shrink
Needed to run the lines so twisted it all together
Cut over 14 Inches of Vac line out from my Map line.. Should've done this a lllllong time ago
God I love it
Yesterday after a quick wash
09-16-14, 05:02 PM
#2095
Yes! But I'm just really focused on making it through this event season. I've got Balcony at willow on the 28th of this month, All Star Bash next month and Sevenstock at Irwindale to make it through. Keeping the car happy and getting to these events is really my main priority.. with number one being that I feel 100% the car is ready going into each event. I have a digital dash coming and once I install that i'll be done spending money on real parts for the time being. I Do need a passenger seat sorely....but that can wait. And I think I have a good deal from a buddy on here, so i'll prob take advantage of that. I'll be painting the car along with much needed Body work.....and possibly even changing out the entire kit. But right now .....the car is running so good I'm just really amped on keeping it that way.
Changed the plugs yesterday from Rx8 Platinum Plugs $18 a pop to my trusty NGK R7420's. I've tried sooo many different plugs and nothing has ever felt as crisp and clean as the R7420's. I've got 10's leading and 10.5 Trailing in there right now...and geese its really incredible how much it cleans everything up.
The Rx8 Plugs are platinum plugs as well. THe main differences visually are the Center probe or electrode seems much thicker than the R7420s.
The Rx7 Plat plug is much shorter...meaning it is recessed into the plug hole further (Away from the combustion chamber)
The Rx8 Plugs seem to have a slightly larger bowl than the R7420's
There is more of a Negative Bevel on the Rx8 Plugs
And the electrode tip ....aside from the overall length of the plug...seems to be recessed into the plug even further than the R7420.
Even with all of these differences I put the rx8 Plugs through the following
2 Dyno sessions on Ethanol, 2 street tuning sessions on gasoline.
-first one over boosted and made 430+Ftlbs of tq at 29Lbs of boost
-Second one had about 12 Pulls settled on 18 Lbs of boost. Made 463 WHP and 380Tq
-4 Other Street tuning sessions including 2 driveability sessions.
-A full Track Day Mazdafest at Streets of willow (went through 40 Gallons of Ethanol)
- about 400 or more Street Miles
-200 Canyon spirited driving miles.
- and countless Burnouts haha
And Truthfully...I think the Rx8 Plug is an excellent Plug. Aside from it's obvious draw backs... Id like to do a test back to back to see which one felt better, but for being 18 bucks compared to 29....I definitely don't think you could beat it.
New Plug is actually a used R7420 I had put only about 20 miles on before my very first motor blew.
Dark plug is the Rx8 plug..used and abused
As you can see the length difference between the two
more rx7 platinum madness...and still no signs of noticeable break-up.....even at high RPM.
and lastly A pic of my Oil thermostat drain. Saves soo much time... I love it.
Changed the plugs yesterday from Rx8 Platinum Plugs $18 a pop to my trusty NGK R7420's. I've tried sooo many different plugs and nothing has ever felt as crisp and clean as the R7420's. I've got 10's leading and 10.5 Trailing in there right now...and geese its really incredible how much it cleans everything up.
The Rx8 Plugs are platinum plugs as well. THe main differences visually are the Center probe or electrode seems much thicker than the R7420s.
The Rx7 Plat plug is much shorter...meaning it is recessed into the plug hole further (Away from the combustion chamber)
The Rx8 Plugs seem to have a slightly larger bowl than the R7420's
There is more of a Negative Bevel on the Rx8 Plugs
And the electrode tip ....aside from the overall length of the plug...seems to be recessed into the plug even further than the R7420.
Even with all of these differences I put the rx8 Plugs through the following
2 Dyno sessions on Ethanol, 2 street tuning sessions on gasoline.
-first one over boosted and made 430+Ftlbs of tq at 29Lbs of boost
-Second one had about 12 Pulls settled on 18 Lbs of boost. Made 463 WHP and 380Tq
-4 Other Street tuning sessions including 2 driveability sessions.
-A full Track Day Mazdafest at Streets of willow (went through 40 Gallons of Ethanol)
- about 400 or more Street Miles
-200 Canyon spirited driving miles.
- and countless Burnouts haha
And Truthfully...I think the Rx8 Plug is an excellent Plug. Aside from it's obvious draw backs... Id like to do a test back to back to see which one felt better, but for being 18 bucks compared to 29....I definitely don't think you could beat it.
New Plug is actually a used R7420 I had put only about 20 miles on before my very first motor blew.
Dark plug is the Rx8 plug..used and abused
As you can see the length difference between the two
more rx7 platinum madness...and still no signs of noticeable break-up.....even at high RPM.
and lastly A pic of my Oil thermostat drain. Saves soo much time... I love it.
09-17-14, 02:14 PM
#2097
I'm really just looking for something in good condition that'll allow me to have passengers for the next 2-3 events, but at the same time I'm really not looking to spend much over 200-300 bucks because I'm trying to stay within my budget.
09-17-14, 04:55 PM
#2098
did some Transient Throttle tuning using some tips from James Paventi. Thanks man! Got it feeling VERY good. Added a bit of fuel to smooth out a couple burbles for parking lot maneuvering till I can get back down to see abel. Got free rev throttle Crack feeling pretty nice as well. Check it out! feel free to fix the videos so you can see them without having to actually go to youtube's site first
Low speed drive
[YT]http://youtu.be/atoPg4Xrmys[/YT]
not sure if I posted this one yet
Low speed drive
[YT]http://youtu.be/atoPg4Xrmys[/YT]
not sure if I posted this one yet
09-18-14, 01:59 PM
#2099
Update:
"ASB2014 Prep"
Getting ready for the first real Drift event for the Wolf and myself.... it was time for an oil change.
Decided to go with Mobil 1 5W30 Full Synthetic. Although the heat would warrant 0W-30..and lack of anything cold out here.. You can never say "Never" out here in the desert so I went with the 5w30 just in case.
My car now takes a little under 4.5 quarts now that I'm able to drain the lines. But I did notice the oil coming form my oil cooler thermostat snap ring push drain had visual dark traces of dirty oil. This oil was much darker than the oil coming form my engine pan. In the future i'll take note to re-orient my oil coolers so that the inlet and outlet are facing the ground. This will prevent any chance of debris or dirt settling at the bottom of the coolers.....because it will.
For the past 6-9 months my drivers side door handle has been broken. I've been too busy making sure the car is mechanically sound to prioritize a door handle....so I put it to the bottom of the "to do" list. I forgot who broke it...but I remember when it happened because I saw it coming and I was just tooooo late saying "CAREFUEL WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR." And when it happened I wrote it off as a fix that would need "new parts" to fix. But anyways...I opened it up and found that It didn't need anything new.. Just a whole lot of grease and some bending of the little attachment that holds the actual metal door handle and attaches the mechanism itself. So I used channel locks to bend it Carefully and again.....lubed the living **** out of it. I think this is the main reason these handles break. Lack of lube. As long as you keep them happily lubricated...theres no reason why they should ever break. Reinstalled it and it now works great!!! Now I can lock this side of the door and not have to open the passenger side first haha.
I also started working on my Gauge system. My tach works pretty well...but then it doesn't. I remember being on the dyno and Abel specifically said...make sure the tach doesn't drop. Well...it didn't...until it did on the dyno lol. As soon as it did at 100% TPS I remember feeling ashamed when he looked over at me...smiled and shook his head. So I'm thinking of just getting rid of everything. My gas level sending unit is fried so I took it out...and speedometer..... I never use. The only thing I look at is oil pressure. Which now I have an additional sensor and temp for oil that I can see a hard number digitally with the dash. So it's kind of pointless for me to keep it. So unless I can think of any reason to keep it....then I might as well just get rid of it. So I started working on a template.
Used shop towels to make an oversized template. This way if I mess up I can always cut more...but too little requires starting over.
Traced it onto cardboard
cut it out
And opened up My Race Technologies Digital Dash 2 Display unit.... This thing is VERY nice
Now some people may not like the overall size of it.... But I'm using a 330mm Steering wheel and the top arc blocks practically all my gauges because of my seating position. (I have long legs) This dash is 100mmX150mm and When I mocked it up... I can see the whole dash Jussssst perfectly (thankfully) in the window between my steering wheel and the hub itself. That turned out good.
I'm contemplating putting my Innovate Mtx-L Wideband where the glass is. And the Buttons I'm considering putting to the left in theopen space. They allow me to navigate the Race Technologies different features etc/menu without hooking it up to a lap top etc.
Anyways.. More updates soon!
Stay tuned!!
"ASB2014 Prep"
Getting ready for the first real Drift event for the Wolf and myself.... it was time for an oil change.
Decided to go with Mobil 1 5W30 Full Synthetic. Although the heat would warrant 0W-30..and lack of anything cold out here.. You can never say "Never" out here in the desert so I went with the 5w30 just in case.
My car now takes a little under 4.5 quarts now that I'm able to drain the lines. But I did notice the oil coming form my oil cooler thermostat snap ring push drain had visual dark traces of dirty oil. This oil was much darker than the oil coming form my engine pan. In the future i'll take note to re-orient my oil coolers so that the inlet and outlet are facing the ground. This will prevent any chance of debris or dirt settling at the bottom of the coolers.....because it will.
For the past 6-9 months my drivers side door handle has been broken. I've been too busy making sure the car is mechanically sound to prioritize a door handle....so I put it to the bottom of the "to do" list. I forgot who broke it...but I remember when it happened because I saw it coming and I was just tooooo late saying "CAREFUEL WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR." And when it happened I wrote it off as a fix that would need "new parts" to fix. But anyways...I opened it up and found that It didn't need anything new.. Just a whole lot of grease and some bending of the little attachment that holds the actual metal door handle and attaches the mechanism itself. So I used channel locks to bend it Carefully and again.....lubed the living **** out of it. I think this is the main reason these handles break. Lack of lube. As long as you keep them happily lubricated...theres no reason why they should ever break. Reinstalled it and it now works great!!! Now I can lock this side of the door and not have to open the passenger side first haha.
I also started working on my Gauge system. My tach works pretty well...but then it doesn't. I remember being on the dyno and Abel specifically said...make sure the tach doesn't drop. Well...it didn't...until it did on the dyno lol. As soon as it did at 100% TPS I remember feeling ashamed when he looked over at me...smiled and shook his head. So I'm thinking of just getting rid of everything. My gas level sending unit is fried so I took it out...and speedometer..... I never use. The only thing I look at is oil pressure. Which now I have an additional sensor and temp for oil that I can see a hard number digitally with the dash. So it's kind of pointless for me to keep it. So unless I can think of any reason to keep it....then I might as well just get rid of it. So I started working on a template.
Used shop towels to make an oversized template. This way if I mess up I can always cut more...but too little requires starting over.
Traced it onto cardboard
cut it out
And opened up My Race Technologies Digital Dash 2 Display unit.... This thing is VERY nice
Now some people may not like the overall size of it.... But I'm using a 330mm Steering wheel and the top arc blocks practically all my gauges because of my seating position. (I have long legs) This dash is 100mmX150mm and When I mocked it up... I can see the whole dash Jussssst perfectly (thankfully) in the window between my steering wheel and the hub itself. That turned out good.
I'm contemplating putting my Innovate Mtx-L Wideband where the glass is. And the Buttons I'm considering putting to the left in theopen space. They allow me to navigate the Race Technologies different features etc/menu without hooking it up to a lap top etc.
Anyways.. More updates soon!
Stay tuned!!
09-19-14, 08:17 PM
#2100
heeeeelll yeah
I have been in this car and seen it perform. Aaron has been doing a lot of homework and testing on everything he has done. Some people will never understand this concept of building a car.
Build the car up to your standards for you to enjoy it .....not for others.
Alex
I have been in this car and seen it perform. Aaron has been doing a lot of homework and testing on everything he has done. Some people will never understand this concept of building a car.
Build the car up to your standards for you to enjoy it .....not for others.
Alex