That's great news! Now make sure you resist the urge to upgrade further and just enjoy the car. ;o)

 

550 is scary fast rich but look your car isnt that far away from that mr. 500


so david how much total does your project come out to

 

I don't have the dyno graph yet so I can't answer this. My guess though would be about 6,500 - 7,000 RPM.

 

Yes, I caught myself thinking "why not have Steve turn up the boost and do another run"?

Certainly 600 is possible right?

 

Yes, but it's all about the torque in the 3 rotor. Cost - you don't even want to know and I don't want to get upset adding it all up. Should be around $30,000 if you plan and do it right the first time. For me, much more than this in $$ spent on failed attempts.

 

Congrats....

 

Redacted

 

wow, 550, that must be a handfull, I can imagine how much torque with the 3 rotor will be

 

Just read thorough all 70 pages, damn, you have a lot of patience. Are you going to be at Sevenstock? I want to see the thing in person.

 

That's exactly the point.. The torque of the 3 rotor is crazy. I have a 425 rwhp SA that weights in at 2100 lbs and my 3 rotor powered FD puts it to shame very easy..It's like driving a V8 kinda...

 

^It's all about the torque - and of course the HP. Spoke with Gotham today and we came up with the following punch list:

- Hood: new mesh painted/powder coated flat black and inserted in hood.
- Radiator shroud/door sills painted exterior black. Door sills to have RX7 logo painted silver.
- PLX gauges: background to match stock gauges (I think this is black with white letters and a red/amber needle).
- Trace/fix ignition "clicking" noise.
- Fix flashing airbag warning light. Probably the sensor in the front bumper?
- Trace/fix radiator fan noise. Steve says he heard this during tuning.
- Install new sunroof seal.
- Install new interior plastic parts (OEM fog light switch, door light switch, center console)
- Have car professionally detailed, including engine bay area.

In addition, we discussed turning up the boost one more lb. to 16. Call me crazy but I started the project wanting 16 lbs. of boost so this is waht we're going to do. Steve doesn't want to blow the engine so hopefully we'll be all right and I'll get my dyno at 16 PSI and call it a day. Could be an expensive 1 extra pound if the engine blows

 

Dave,

Is it possible to have two tunes ? One at 15, and the other at 16, like a PFC ?

I would break-in the engine & it's seals at 15, including one track event at Roebling (come with me, I teach there), and then move to 16-lbs.

:-) neil

 

If your AFRs, EGTS, and Inj duty cycles are fine at 15 psi, one more pound of boost won't hurt a thing

Seems to me like the title of this thread should be 'FD 20B Gotham Racing Conversion'

 

David, I am so glad to hear this, you have no idea. It has been since about 2004 that I have been on this forum, and ever since I saw you car I fell in love with the wide body. So much I copied it, even the same wheels, LOL. I sold mine already,b tu I am happy to knowyou car is finally done. Good job man and enjoy the bastard...bitch...whatever.

 

This is what I was thinking, on both acocunts

 

Congrats on the numbers. Why is Steve so afraid to turn the boost up? There is no reason why it shouldn't be able to handle more. As I understand the motor was built by Pettit, so is the build questionable?

 

The engine is already broken in - it has about 5,000 miles on it. I haven't worked with a Haltech yet, but I'm sure it works with maps that allow you to tune at multiple levels of boost within the same map. Usually the "Y" axis will be boost and other factors, such as "AFR" will be along the "X" axis. I also think the Haltech will take what you've done for lower levels and extrapolate it for higher levels.

Roebling Raceway? That's not far, about 2 hours from me in Jax FL. One of my goals once I get the car back is to take some classes to learn how to drive.

 

No the build is not questionable. If you've seen how Pettit builds engines, you'd be very impressed. Their "clean" room is the cleanest I've ever seen. The engine is also blueprinted and balanced so it should be solid.

On the negative side, Wolf EMS USA, the place I had to "steal" the car from to send it to Gotham, left the engine open and exposed during the fabrication of the turbo system. This got metal shavings into the intake ports of the engine. Steve and Gotham had to clean these out and they think they got everything but you never know. Also, Steve's had an e-shaft go out on him at 16 psi so it makes him leary to do more. He's certainly successfully tuned at higher levels than this on both 2 and 3 rotors.

Having said this, I've given them the green light to crank it up to 16 lbs. Should know soon how it went.

 

Wasn't trying to point fingers at Pettit. Looking forward to seeing the numbers.

 

^No offense taken. Pettit builds very good engines but who knows wha happened while the car was at Wolf USA?

 

The e-shafts on the earlier engines were suspect. What series is yours? Also is your engine pinned?

 

Hey David...glad to see a good amount of progress....we're sooo close now!

Re: the OEM-like quality mesh...would ya mind posting up info on where it was obtained/who made it, and any pics? I've been toying w/ the idea myself for a bit, but wasn't sure where exactly to go to in order to proceed...

Thanks!
~Ramy

 

Can't quite remember, but I think it's a "D" series. Also, Pettit adds extra dowels during the engine build process.

 

The only pic I currently have of the mesh is this:


It's from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). I ordered part #9232T191 but they have many different types and styles to select from. It cost a little over $50 for a sheet.

 

Perfect...thanks David